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copycutter

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  1. unfortunately no. no alarm, no insurance, no immobiliser. my own fault i spose.
  2. PS I also found this. Im not sure if its related, but it sounds like it. http://www.gcbulletin.com.au/article/2006/.../2241_news.html
  3. Thanks guys. I went to Southport Police station and reported it last night and they said they'd put the word out. If they find it, they'll tow it and dust it for prints and then contact me. I've also contacted Robina Town Centre security and they said they can't tell me anything about the tapes and that they could only deal with the police. I told him just to look for the car driving out, (model and plates) and told him to contact the police with any information. I've just been driving around with all my mates driving the coast too combing through separate directions. This is the worst part of it, wondering whether i'll ever see my car again.. I've built this car from a complete stocker ca18 over the last few years, and as i mentioned have put my heart and soul into getting everything out of it. I can remember every time the car has broken down or needed something fixed, and all the money from paychecks put towards it, week after week to get the results and the car i yearned for. I've sweated and bled for the car with my own two hands, working countless hours with my mates on the car, tirelessly trying to make something unique and respected, only to have it taken away without warning. I've never felt so helpless before, because after all these years of working towards something, i'm now 21 grand in the hole for this car and i have nothing to show for it. I've probably spent between 30-40k on this car, and it feels it too. I've always heard about the theft problems in Sydney and Melbourne - the bigger cities; and figured the Gold Coast was too small time for it to happen to me. I was wrong. Again, if anyone knows anything or heard anything, saw anything - whatever. Call me on my mobile, it doesnt matter what time, i've got to find my car. 0421842005 Thanks, Nick
  4. I don't know how else to say it... I was at work, with my car parked at the David Jones carpark at Robina Town Centre from about 2:30pm till work finished at 9pm. When I came out it was gone. empty carpark. Its a dark blue 89' 180sx with standard ca18 front bar. Its got r32 gts-t wheels. Its got an rb25 in it too, so im guessing thats a bonus for the theives. Im totally shattered, i've put my whole life into this car with every single paycheck for the last 3 years. If anyone, anywhere sees or hears about this car please call me on 0421842005 - anytime. I'm offering a reward to anyone that has information leading to the car Thanks, Nick
  5. Hey all, I added my results on there too to compare a stockish rb25 against the bigger turbo'd ones. Looks about right too.
  6. anyone got any ideas?
  7. Hey all. As topic suggests I want to get an oil catch can on the car soon. My Power FC has just arrived so i'm going to be organising getting it tuned real soon too. I currently have the oil line out of the head plumbed into the inlet like standard, haven't checked how bad the blow-by is. Would it be worthwhile to get one of these asap or just put it on the eventual-to-do list? And if so, on nengun.com theres a 9mm one and a 12mm one. I was just going to get the "no frills" nengun one cos its under 100 bucks delivered rather than the five thousand dollar greddy one. Also, I just noticed the HKS exhaust cam gears are way cheaper than i thought, should i throw this on too for the extra 5rwkw or does it add a great deal of labour time getting fitted? Its just relatively stock at the moment. I'm hoping to be able to crack 180rwkw with the FC on. At the moment its just got front-mount, 3" exhaust, plazmaman plenum and a real dodgy idle problem. Cheers,
  8. Unfortunately for me i doubt the diagnostics capability was connected when the engine was wired. My rb25 is in a 180sx, not in an r33 skyline. Someone also mentioned that my stock r33 computer needs the catalytic converter sensor to be connected. Is this true?
  9. thanks guys. So you think that there would be no real reason for me to get a haltech/microtech for that reason? A Power FC plugged in would be able to read out what sensors are not operating correctly? What if it doesnt pick up the problem?
  10. What would you do if you were in my position? My car, since the conversion, has had the worst idle problem and i cannot for the life of me figure it out. The car just will not run when its warm. I've tried cleaning the IAC, TPS, AFM etc etc etc and i cannot get this problem gone. I'm sure everyone can appreciate how infuriating it is to own a car with an engine that flatly refuses to run... I was told that these problems are occurring due to the wiring loom not being correctly set up. I was going to use the Power FC, but what if this is correct and when i plug in the Power FC in to my 'faulty' loom, it won't fix the problem. Re-setting up of the wiring costs hundreds in itself. My other option is to purchase a Haltech/Microtech which includes completely rewiring the engine, which should hopefully fix the problem, or if not at least give me some clue. Can the Power FC tell me is a sensor like the TPS is causing these problems? If anyone in the Brisbane or Gold Coast area has remotely any idea about this I will pay for your help if need be!!
  11. thats not true. i run a plazmaman plenum on my standard runners in my 180sx, which arguably has a lower curved bonnet than a silvia. Mine only needed a slight bit clipped from under the blanket, or you could space the rear up slightly.
  12. Once again... you're work with this motor continues to impress me. My friends that are only into 1jz's had to pick up their jaws off the ground when a stock internal rb25 ran a 10 sec pass with a full bodied r33 and a manual gearbox. Whats more impressive is the attitude you've adopted. After copping all this abuse and critisism from people that are just being critical for the sake of it, i'm moreso impressed by the way you've refused to let these people get under your skin. Keep up the good work, relish the compliments, take on board the constructive advice (from people that actually know what they're talking about), and ignore the bench racers that spend 30hrs a week playing keyboard commando... Keep up the good work.
  13. This is what happened to me. I replaced the spark plugs in my rb25 from whatever was in the half cut to BCPR5ES11's (Heat Range:5, Gap:1.1mm) and had misfire problems up high in the rev range. I also had a boost leak at this point so I fouled them up real quick . Then I was told by a few people on this forum when I asked for a specific part number of what to change them to, and I eventually ended up getting BCPR7ES-8 (Heat Range:7, Gap:0.8mm) and these were no help at all. If anything, they were worse! I eventually sought advice from a workshop, who recommended I install a different type of copper NGK plug, called the V-Power's. The part number is totally different, something like R6EY something something. I'll post it up if anyone wants it exactly, but the bottom line is perfect all through the rev range. NO MISFIRES! The V-Power one's have a different shaped head on them and different firing pin i think. Hope this helps people. Cheers, Nick
  14. what if you have no BOV at all? would idle problems (cold start - 2000rpm, warm engine stalling issues) be related to this, or more likely to be Idle Air Control Valve? Don't mean to hijack sorry.
  15. My god everyone stop tryin to take the jam outta his donut. He's pushing the boundaries of what everyone generally believes to be an accepted limit for a great engine. Maybe his motor was built on easter or something, but i distinctly remember him saying "i'll open the motor to prove it's standard if someone pays for it". Not exactly damning proof perhaps, but he's spent hours compiling videos on his website, tuning on the dyno, and posting up his results on this forum to show how much effort he's spent working on this supposedly underrated engine. I think the only way he's going to have to settle this is to go for that 9 sec pass, and if/when it blows, pull it apart and photograph all the internals to prove it was nissan all along. If he's been honest, then i'm sure he'll have no problems showing the world. I personally love the work he's doing for the rb25, because no one bothers for big hp out of these engines when there's the rb26/2j - so he's doing us proud. Just what i think of course...
  16. Yeah i'm pretty sure its not a vacuum leak. Will get checked again at Desynz this friday, and getting him to look at the IAC and install my new speedo sensor. Excellent plenums you guys make btw, am very happy with it. Its always the first thing people notice and ask about when i pop the hood What do you recommend to keep the mirror finish though? I tried some of that Autosol metal polish and it helped a bit, just after some suggestions, and I guess the person who made it would be best to ask. Cheers
  17. whats the best way to see if the plenum's leaking? carby cleaner? Oh and thank you insu, excellent list of things to attack.. Thanks for taking the time to type. I'll base my further questions after looking this over after one sometime
  18. Thank you for the list rb30, that was exactly what i needed to go over with - a checklist. Yes i am running standard computer for the time being.. How exactly do i test the TPS? Oh yes, and plugs have been changed about 250kms ago. And the timing has been reset recently because all this time i had an RB20 one!!! So now that i have my rb25 one with vvt, obviously it had to be reset - was done at Desynz where the other stuff was fixed. All my past misfiring problems have gone since he serviced the coils and put in his own type of copper NGK plugs (Re6 something or other) I've put in BCPR5ES11's and they sucked balls, and then BCPR7ES-8, and the problems still wasnt fixed with the decreased gap. Its now smooth all the way to redline tho.
  19. dont have a stock one anymore.... different intake tract and an atmo one would probably make it worse, huh?
  20. Nah sorry mate its got a stock turbo, and an r34 AFM - which im pretty sure is identical to my s2 r33 one on the floor in the passenger seat Still pretty much stock atm besides cat-back, the ic, filter and the plenum.
  21. Thanks dude. It's taken a long time just to get the cars to where they are now, and we both still got a heap of money to spend still.. My cars only just finally producing power after we realised the car had a massive boost leak, an rb20 crank angle sensor (no vvt ), wrong sparks, coils needed looking at etc etc. Now that the AFR's aren't rich off the richter without the boost leak the clutch is slipping like crazy When it does hook up in 2nd it burns all the way through the gear sideways when it comes on boost --> only 7 pound too! I think my coils are in pretty good nick, and i dont really have the spare 600 to get some splitfires. read: clutch.... If my IAC line had a slight kink in it when it bends to come up through the inlet runners and into the IAC have any effect on the way the car idles and stalls?
  22. I have no BOV currently so not sure if the compressor surge has anything to do with passing air back across the AFM and causing over-richness and therefore stalling. However, this can occur when i'm cruising off boost or on full power then backing off. The IAC is a grey area for me. I have been told in the past that this thing needs to be set at a correct level or 'calibrated' to work correctly. True/False? Also, the screw at the back of the unit that controls the idle on this valve, what sould I do, set it at about 700rpm on idle when warm?
  23. Just wanting some ideas on what would make an rb25 idle move around a bit when sitting in traffic, and the car stall after driving for a bit when i use the clutch. I'm finding myself having to 'catch' the revs as they just drop straight down if i don't heel and toe when braking, so it's pretty annoying. Cheers,
  24. Hey eveyone as the topic suggests i'm after a little advice on what kind of clutch would be suitable for an rb25 (engine+box) making roughly 270rwkw, give or take. I've been told a few different things, and just want to know whether twin plate, or single plate? What brand? New or used or? Just the usual basic info. Thanks,
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