copycutter

the gcg one on that website says $1950? is this the correct one? thats only 200 bucks cheaper than a hks one, and more expensive than a trust td06-20g or a garrett gt30r... i dont understand, are they cheaper for SAU members or something? Plus if this was correct i wouldnt get any money back from sale of the stock turbo, to the upgrade one - making it more expensive

so in your opinion theres no real market for the hks turbo's when these highflow stock turbos are around. Im not trying to waste my time or money, but i'd rather not have to send turbo's back and forth to GCG headquarters. It would most likely be more convenient for me to buy a new or used turbo locally.. And what flow do these GCG turbos make - is it more than an equivalent garrett/hks/trust turbo?

i dont really trust the hiflow. I've seen one break before.. Id prefer an aftermarket one. And from what i've seen from that sticky thread on here, you SAU boys are making like 240kw or less from a high-flowed turbo. As i said previously I have a s2 r33 gts-t engine in my 180sx - and im aiming for 270kw at the wheels on a stock engine. Does the 2835pro s have boost control problems by being internally gated, or am i better off with a straight garrett gt30r

Just wanting to figure out what turbo option would be the best in terms of price, response, and overall power band. I was originally thinking a gt30r with high-mount manifold and tIAL gate' on about 17psi should hit the mark - not too sure tho. I was having a look on the sticky thread about the rb25 turbo upgrade, and im wanting to find out more about the hks 2835 pro s... i tried searching the forum and the net and couldnt find any rock solid specs or real-world figures. I'm just leaning towards the internally gated turbo now because its cheaper to bung one on. But would one of these fit low-mounted in a 180sx? And also, what other mods besides the obvious ones are needed for this power. I dont really want to have to do cams unless i really need to.. Cheers, Guys B)

Does compressor surge really kill the rb25 turbo? If so then my ass is grass, cos i had to chop off the plumb-back one to fit my new plenum...

I know 1 bar is asking too much - even with a full exhaust. My question would be whether 11-12psi is ok, or if there's too much pressure and heat at the bum of the turbo still. Also, im running a Blitz SBC iD-III boost controller. As i now understand it the manual feature allows better boost control and quicker response as its a 'duty cycle' figure for the turbo. What 'gain' settings do i want for this setup i'm running. I dont want any smoothness or transition to boost - just all out performance. I understand the gain feature allows the ebc to bleed air partially to slow and smooth the on-boost transition. I definetly do not need this as the r33 computer and turbo are already too smooth for me its like driving an N/A car.

lol go for it man haha! cat spew aka nascar rumbling down the street. I reckon that setup would last u about 10 mins on the street before getting pinged by the fuzz, BUT.... it would sound awesome tho....

Hey man, probably a better question now would be whether the gt30r will support the 270 odd kw on a reasonable boost level, cos im trying to get the power without having to open the rb up for cams or head gasket. Obviously - if this figure's asking too much, ill probably just get the head gasket to lower compression into the 8:1 sorta bracket.

Of course the sr is a damn good motor. But u have to understand that i had a ca18, which aint bad either - but for both to support the 270+kw atw i was after would be impossible for a std motor. So i would have had to trasnplant in an sr AND rebuild it. not feasible... And if i was to rebuild my ca, which i was very near to doing - if i ever ran a bearing or blew it --> there's all my money gone. This way is more streetable, the 6-cyls make very nice street cars to get around with. As for the water temp gauge in my cluster, we used a ca18 temp sensor and it appears to work now - behaving itself and sitting on normal. We rigged one 12" thermo to push all the time, and another 12" one to a termostatic switch to pull air through, as well as some major cutting to the front bar and air apertures. There's quite a bit more airflow now that the aircon gear is all gone, (so now she's a windows down girl ). I'm also planning to put a sheet of alloy underneath the intercooler and radiator to stop the air from dipping out and under the car - as the air will take the easiest path in terms of restriction, thus forcing the air to pass through the radiator and engine bay. Cheers, Nick

well how much is a dump and front pipe for an rb25, and will it fit correctly in my 180? And would i be able to sell the dump pipe easily and get a high mount dump pipe for the new turbo later on down the track? I thought this would cost at least 300-400 bucks just for the bits and peices, and its probably better put towards a Power FC, and just a safe boost level for the cat-back...

Hey all, I tried to search for what power and boost its safe to run on my stock turbo. I was warned after the conversion to leave it pretty much at 7psi until i get a full exhaust and a fuel pressure reg. All i've got is a pod, fmic, and a catback exhaust. I'm running 9psi atm couldnt help turning it up a bit. It's reasonably quick i spose, but im already wanting more. I know its cool for up to a bar with full exhaust, my question is more to do with the damage i might cause with only half an exhaust. I dont wanna upgrade the dump and front pipe either, cos im getting a high mout gt30r, so it'd be a waste of money. Thanks in advance, Nick

Mate honestly i'm the same... lol But u do what u can to own the RB when you couldnt, and im paying the price - which i consider reasonable compared to owning an sr!

Hey guys. Took her back for a re-think all day today. We decided to open the airdam on the ca18 front bar, as well as remove a little bit of the steel support behind it, and the grille between the headlights. All assist with the airflow. We then removed the aircon condensor and radiator - as well as the custom aircon lines that i got made up (lucky we hadn't re-gassed it yet ). After adding another 12" thermofan to push on the RHS of the radiator, as well as the "pull" one on the LHS of it. We then re-bled the radiator, and added a ca18 temp sensor to the engine, as obviously thats what the gauge cluster wants to read off of. It now runs at mid-way through the temperature gauge - exactly where the ca18 used to run at. And with the front bar on, and leaving it running sitting for like 15 mins it didnt skip a beat. So i took it for a drive - and fine So i drove to logan hyperdome to check the temps after driving around the carpark for a bit.. parked and checked - still fine. I then drove to the airport to get my dad in Brisbane, checked and still fine there, although i still put in about 10ml of water into the overflow bottle as the radiator had drawn it in a bit, but no leaks whatsoever. I then drove all the way home to Robina on the Gold Coast, and its fine; so my guess is that the r32 radiator seems to be able to cope with the thermal loading that the larger engine generates, but not without the removal of the aircon as a restriction, and creating as much airflow into the engine bay as possible. Thank you everyone who posted for the quick and helpful ideas, as i mentioned all the possibilities to pinpoint the solution. I asked about jacking up the rear of the bonnet - but apparently this is illegal, because if you have an oil leak it will spill onto the windscreen. This would probably be more helpful to airflow when the car is moving, and the problem was more a stationary one. Thanks again ppl, Nick (ill post up pics of the conversion when i clean up engine bay )

Obviously i'd prefer to run a clutch fan in a shroud, but in a 180sx the room is fairly limited - so thermos are the only option. The aircon radiator has no fan at all, there is only one 12" thermofan on the rear of the r32 radiator. If need be ill remove the aircon system altogether and run another 12" thermofan on the front side of the radiator. I may also get the radiator cleaned and pressure tested before this also.

And the compression between all the cylinders is between 160 and 154. If the engine had a blown head hasket wouldn't i see water stains down the side of the rocker covers and the compression be off?

It does have a brand new water pump on it now so that shouldnt be the issue. It is running what i believe to be either an r32 or r33 radiator. Im pretty sure its r32, and its running the one 12" thermofan on the left side of the radiator. I drove it again today in the heat to a mates place, and it seemed fine. So we drove it around for a little and brought it back to his place - again fine... I assumed that maybe getting those air pockets out must have helped a bit. So we decided to let it idle for a bit where it gets no airflow with the bonnet down. After about 5 mins the coolant was bubbling in the overflow resorvoir again, but didnt spill cos we turned it off. I removed the front bar and cruised it home after about 30 mins or so, and it seemed fine. When i got home, the coolant in the overflow was exactly where it was when i started this morning; about 1cm under "MAX". Obviously, the extra airflow at the front helps also, but this problem seems to really occur when the car is sitting with the engine running. Also, with this r33 ecu hooked up to my temp gauge, does it need any modifying to actually read the temperature accurately. Mine seems to take forever to get moving, and only gets to about a quarter up and stays there, even when the coolant starts to boil.

Hey people, finally got the car back from TTRacing with an rb25det from a s2 r33 gts-t. The mods i've got are exhaust (with stock r33 dump), pod, intercooler, and a plazmaman inlet plenum. ---> http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/tun...93252553477.jpg It goes great - extremely responsive, especially because the throttle cable is much shorter and touchier with the plenum. There is a problem though; Alex from TTR said he drove it to the gold coast to get the thing complied, and when he pulled in the the complier's shop, it overheated. So when he got back the cut out the little grill on my front bar to help with airflow. Anyway, i also made alex hook up the tacho and temp gauge before id take it. When i was driving back on the highway the temp gauge took ages to start moving, and then only went up like 1 or 2 notches out of about 10. When we pulled in to mudgeeraba to grab a mates rb20 180, and show him the work it seemed fine. We also drove to another mates place, then around the corner to a car wash to clean her up. Then at about 7, we drove to a 3rd mates house. When i pulled up and popped the bonnet to show em tho, the car switched off and the thermo kept running as per usual i guess. But the coolant overflow bottle started spewing water and coolant out of it for about a minute. We guessed this could possibly be cos the thing was a little overfull, but i was pretty concerned needless to say. Anyway we got to driving to broadie carpark and got there about 8. We all backed in to carpark spaces and then my mate noticed my car dumping a fair bit of water, so we popped the bonnet again and the overflow bottle is steaming and dropping water everywhere. "F**k!" - was my first thought... Eventually we called out a mechanic mate, who decided we should bleed the system of any air bubbles that could be there. So we got it to operating temp (heater on), and undid the little bolt.. Sure enough, brown water comes spurting out in little bursts with heaps of air. We leave it till the flow turns green, as well as under the radiator cap, and top it up with some good coolant. Now the temp gauge is reading about 1 third of full, so we drive it around the carpark where theres no airflow to see if it overheats. We park it after 5 or 10, and it seems fine. We then drive it about 15 mins to hungrys on bermuda st, where it appears to drop more water only when we stop. So i drive her home, instead of removing my front bar to see if its really an airflow problem - or just a rooted thermostat/blocked radiator. Any help would be greatly appreciated guys, i know its pretty impossible to tell without seeing it. Ill call TTR on monday and let em know anyway. Our first thought was to get rid of aircon radiator and get another thermo, but my mechanic mate reckons one 12" should be able to cool it, because the things pretty standard. Cheers, Nick

I think more what they mean is that the GReddy inlet plenum's are designed for performance, and thus are really intended for top-end peak power. From the plenum designs i've seen fitted to nissans (mostly sr's), it appears to rob the car of some low to mid-range power and torque in favour of all-out power.

Surely the r33 5-speed isn't THAT hefty. It couldn't possibly weigh more than 50-75kgs, and the weight is more mid-ship weight than front weight per se, as the gearbox is located well aft of the front axles. I think that mambastu has a better idea than most, as he is clearly involved in circuit racing, as can be seen from his website, and from the video I saw the car seems fairly well balanced following a car that's market value was like 6 times more. I doubt he would have chosen his current setup OR kept it if it handled that badly, and as snuffles says, RB conversions arent exactly as scarce as hens teeth. B)

Yeah bro, pretty even, but both way from finished at this point. Definetly don't bother with the dumps - aint worth it my mate said. But also dont expect to be a giant killer without that massive restriction removed - even though the 1j are supposed to make more power and torque than the 25'. But what cruise liner said before is spot on, the 1jz will undoubtedly make more power internally stock than an rb25. If my mate wanted to be a smartass he could bolt on a t78 to his 1jz and i wouldnt be able to follow without rebuild', but we both agree that at 250-300rwkw, the torque is gonna make it hard enough to keep a car with a wheelbase as short as a 180sx on the road. :lol: Definetely great fun though, both get strange looks from petrol heads when u drive around, especially his car

They are both awesome man. Totally different engine design though.. The 1jz makes boost a little later in the rev range (cos 2 turbos, as opposed to one smaller one), but it also revs harder. Both are just begging for the gt30r's we're putting on eventually His car and mine are both pretty much even on the roll, but they arent quite finished yet, cos im putting on a new plenum head soon, and he still has the stock r180 diff, whereas i have the r200. different gear ratios between the r154 and the r33 five speed make a little different. Suffice it to say that I'm yet to see the potential unleashed from both, as the plumbing difference with my plenum will be huge, and he's got the stock dump pipes which are extremely restrictive. Im running a little more boost than him too. Once we get these things done it will be very interesting to see though...

Mate, first of all the question was about rb25 and 1jz ONLY. I understand that the sr20 is an incredible motor for what it is, but at the end of the day it simply cannot compete with engines that were DESIGNED to outpower and outperform them, albeit in a much heavier and arguably less sporty chassis (ie soarer, r33 skyline). Having said this, he mentioned chasing a car that has a reliable and usable 300rwkw. Using the words daily driver, its obvious that a 300rwkw 6-cyl will be infinitely more usable for driving, without anywhere near the same sort of lag. Don't get me wrong, the 4-bangers are great - me and my mate both had 200rwkw ca18's, but my mate now has a 1jz in his 180, and i have an rb25 in mine, and i can guarantee you that they drive waaay smoother, because they're so stock. We've also got 2 other mates - one with an 180 and one with s15, and the 180 is on its 3rd sr20, the s15 is now on its 2nd engine. Both cars were making in excess of 250-260rwkw. The s15 was using nitrous and a massive turbonetics turbo, and made closer to 300rwkw, before lifting the head off his block and warping the head-gasket etc. The point is, since my mate and i didnt have sr's it was never gonna be worth it to buy one and build it up, and the stock sr20 just ain't reliable enough to work well above those power levels. All the boys who wave the sr flag aren't wrong, because they have such popularity and aftermarket support, but have also rarely driven anything better.

Hey people. Just a quick question as i've got an rb25det conversion from a sII r33 into my 180sx. Just want to know what to do with my intercooler plumbing. As i used to have a ca18det powered 180, i have the intercooler core and bottom arms of the plumbing coming up through the battery hole and the pod filter area on the left and right. The thing is, im wondering if I should get either a GReddy or Plasmaman Inlet Plenum to shorten the plumbing and make it easier to plumb it all up. As i'm intending to put on a high-mounted GT30R on eventually, i wont be able to have the traditional over the rocker-covers plumbing. Has anyone run either the bolt up plasmaman plenum head on the stock throttle body and intake runners - or the whole new plenum chamber from GReddy, which i've heard can sap from the mid-range. Anyway i could also do a cut-and-shut of the stock plenum to have the plumbing in and out, but i haven't heard how this makes the car behave, because im fairly big on drivability. Any help from the tech-heads is very much appreciated Cheers

I wouldn't have thought this is much for an rb25, but I have heard that an even spread across all the cylinders is more important. My rb25det from a 97' s2 r33 has between 153-160 across all cylinders, being the lowest and highest from all readings. 125 sounds a little low, but if the others say its ok if it aint using oil and water etc, then i could be wrong. Possible try testing another one if you can, just for reference.

Yeah it's my car its going into. I've got it booked into TTRacing to get the whole lot fitted. They guy there, Alex, said i need a rear end off an r32, (diff, brakes, hubs etc), and he'll supply the front billet hubs. I've also got r33 rotors and calipers for the front. Asian Auto Spares in Slack's Creek are supplying the half cut and front brakes (already paid for), and i'm buying r32 wheels, as well as the rear axle from the 32 off them also. Then shipping it round the corner to TTRacing to get fitted. They're charging me 2700 drive in-drive out for the conversion if i supply those parts, and apparently they will take care of the tailshaft, engine mounts, gearbox mounts and radiator. Anyone know if this sounds right or if these guys do good work. I'm just a little worried that the price will double by the end of it :S