Medium Dave

Yeah, the gts4 box takes up a lot of room. The transfer case is reasonably big, I think there is about 30 - 40kg of extra metal. Are you looking for extra strength or a 4wd conversion? If you are after strength the change to a rb25det box has been done several times, might seem more expensive tho but would be easier than cutting up your floor pan (you probably know this already). A 4wd conversion would need a new engine too for the 4wd sump (wont fit rwd engine) plus I dont know how much of the front running gear (if it will fit), could be a can of worms, buy a gts4 (they are brilliant ).

Hi guys, if anyone has a spare front drivers side driveshaft to fit my R32 GTS4 thats in reasonable nic - sealed boots/not clicking they dont mind parting with I would gratly appreciate it - name your price, plus postage, cheers PM me if you have one and dont mind posting it, im in Tas

I have read a lot of theory and done a lot of experimentation regarding this subject and as a result you are better off using a 2 way system to reduce the difference in sounds from crossover points and different speakers. I have seen pictures of some massive horn structures to give single 4" speakers enough bass to act as a full range speaker

I would absolutely agree with both Randy and gts25t4door, apart from running the sub at 2 ohms, running less than 4 ohm is only good for sound comps, the extra load will increase the heat in the amp and lower the power output, and you will reduce its lifespan. I have worked for Jaycar and used a lot of the gear - my car is full of it, and in the 2.5 years I was there I saw only 2 amps come back faulty - and we sold lots of them! - thankfully they got the audio gear right before the place turned into a supermarket...

I was reading on prestige motorsport a company has recently taken delivery of one to do the r&d, but it will still be about 6 months before they will be ready to comply them (depending on how out of date I am, I checked the label on my tshirt but it does'nt say)

Mate I can sympathise with you, I have just replaced an engine I couldnt afford either, I had spun a big end bearing at full noise. My options were to rebuild which would have cost thousands and left the lower end a bit worse off due to the relief work to be done, or drop in a replacement. I ended up buing a replacement block with just the basics, no cas, coil packs or turbo which kept the cost down a bit then a friend and I replaced it ourselves, which in hindsight may not have saved a great deal of money - there are a few hidden costs involved (like anything I guess) but the experience was worth it (never again tho its a big job) Talk to your mechanic about prices for a rebuild vs replacement block most mechanics I have encountered are pretty friendly and helpful, it shouldnt be too hard to find one that gives you some good advice. I would probably get a mechanic to come look at it in case its something simple, my mechanic came to my house and looked at it for nothing - great guy, I have been taking my cars to him for years tho. Good luck with it.

When a friend and I were about 18 we would help out at our local rounds of the tas rally series and through there made contacts and bought a cheap 2nd hand car, borrowed a terra trip and raced in that for a few seasons. Friends and family got roped into being pit crew, which sorted us out of a few scrapes. You will have a hard time injuring yourself in a tired old corolla/datto with a roll cage and helmets (one year we ended up upside down in a ditch, next year a creek and walked away) Nothing like learning by doing Dont worry about being really competitive straight away, just get out there have some fun.

Damn straight SirRacer, give me a twisty mountain pass any day, the weather may be rubbish in tassie but thats not a problem behind the wheel of my gts4 you can keep your 1/4 mile Now can anyone tell me how strong the gearbox is? will it handle hard launches? or will I lunch it? (mine is virtually stock atm, but 'I have a mighty NEED!')

Thanks insu, good luck with yours, mine drives fine atm, althought I have noticed in the last two days its a bit smokey from the exhaust, but I had put it down to being really smegging cold outside, damn tassie weather... I will let you know how I go, for your diy

Cheers, as far as I know the ecu is stock, and so is the motor, only change is a cat back exhaust and pod filter, but as is always the way I have just found a big thread on just this topic with a few more suggestions : Make sure there is no vacuum leaks -Make sure the plugs are gapped correctly and not fouled -Make sure the ignition timing is set to 15deg btdc @ 650rpm -Make sure the TPS is adjusted for idle position (0.4-0.5Volts @ idle) -Make sure the base idle is set correctly. To do this you have to make sure the engine is at operating temp & all electrical loads such as lights, AC etc are turned off Then remove the TPS connector (this will set AAC valve opening to a set opening i.e no feedback or change to idle rpm) You now need to adjust the screw on the idle adjusment assembly so that the engine revs are approx 650rpm (+ or - 50RPM) Then reconnect the TPS and the base idle is set correctly. There has been much debate as to what exactly it is that causes the RB series motors to hunt at idle, the solutions/problems I have come across in my reading include: 1) Dirty/ Faulty AFM 2) Vacuum Leak 3) Dirty/non functioning AAC valve 4) Dirty/non functioning idle bypass screw, which is part of the AAC assembly 5) Faulty O2 sensor 4) Faulty Spark (be it coils or plugs or both) 5) Faulty cold start idle assembly 6) Faulty water temperature sensor (which can apparently open and close the AAC to compensate for the cold start valve, this is just hersay thou) 7) Non standard BOV leaking to atmosphere 8) Faulty strength of signal being sent from computer to activate idle setting on fuel pum (ie under fueling engine) 9) Faulty TPS setting or signal output 10) Dirty or sticking throttle body. 11) Bad seal or no seal to top of motor (ie, oil filer cap not closed or broken etc) I will go home and try these tonight, any other ideas most welcome tho

Hi Guys, I have been having a bit of an idling problem for a little while now, when I pull up to a stop the engine will spin up to 1500rpm then slowly drop to 1200, and occasionally race up to 1500 again. I have done a few searches and come up with a few solutions but they have not worked for me, these are: New exhaust manifold gasket (installed by a mech') Cleaned Idle actuator on side of inlet manifold Cleaned throttle butterfly and around inlet Cleaned AFM Replaced throttle position sensor This is starting to get embarrasing as some guys think I am challenging them to a drag at the lights any help would be greatly appreciated

I think there is a tutorial about fitting gtr breaks, big 4 spotters - they came on my gts4 too, when I jump on the breaks I cant breath too well

Not sure if this is true for all alarms, but the alarm wont trip the immobiliser unless it has been triggered (alarm sounding, lights flashing etc...) If it has fully tripped and it still lets you start the car, grab a multimeter and check the signal to the immobilising relay, earth and connections to the ignition (or whatever it is stopping, fuel pump mabey) if there is a signal to the relay, but it is not activating (you should be able to hear a soft click) grab a new one, jaycar would have one under 10 bucks, good luck

Have a listen to Gomez, the shins, and Lab 4

Fatz, you are my hero... keep up the good work, im hanging out to see some updates on power delivery/traction/handling when its all sorted, just be sure to go to a sperm bank and save some 'genetic material, cos I think your lovely girl will probably relieve you of your balls, and I want to clone you

Print the guide put together by cubes, much shorter...

You have to own the car for a year, but if I were you I would buy something that can not be complianced in aus so you can have something completely different

Here's one way to tell from inside the car: come round a tight'ish 2nd gear corner and plant your right foot, if you are all crossed up, its a gtst, squeeze the throttle next time Looks a pretty tidy car, have fun.

I spent a few hours on it, power and speaker cables, the system fired up first time and has not given me any trouble. It wasnt hard, just time consuming, but definitly worth the extra effort.

Sorry to backtrack, but we are missing an important point in the aplifier question: increase in power v increase in volume is not linear... its logarithmic, if you have a speaker powered by 10wrms (for arguments sake we will say a 100hz tone) to make that speaker sound twice as loud you would need 100wrms. Each time you double your power or number of speakers you gain 3db. to double the volume you need a 10 db gain, this is where the sensitivity comes in, if you have a midrange which is 89db at 1w/m and a tweeter wich is 92db 1w/m you need 'yep you guessed it' two midranges to make the speakers sound linear (or twice the power to the mids, which is what the crossover does - limits the power to the tweeters as well as seperating frequencies) Having an amplifier will give you more headroom, it wil not have to work as hard to make the same volume, it will not heat up as much allowing it to make more bass and being more reliable.

And take some of your own music to listen to, plus check the depth, I bought some splits that were quite deep and ended up being a nightmare to install...

Um, this might seem like a silly question, has anyone put a water spray setup on thier side cooler? I would like to increase the efficiency of the standard core, but dumping water over the left front wheel does not sound like such a good thing for traction...

Id say dont wait, mine was low on oil (didnt realise, supid dave)... cost me big$$ when it went bang

Getting the sump/diff to fit is quite difficult, but is made easier by using the conversion kit designed by one of the guys on the forum here, I think it might be fitzpatric speedworks, but the massive sticky in the forced performace section has all the info you will need, plus cubes has put together a detailed guide about what parts are required and what will fit, have fun

I didnt use a heat shield in the engine bay, but made up a small scoop to duct air from the opening in the front bar to the opening under the headlight, I dont have any b4/after temps but going by touch the pod was much cooler after a hard run.