Medium Dave

Sorry for the post whoring but I just had to wish you good luck with it, sounds like a shite situation

Looks like a lot of work has gone into it I will be selling my car soon, i will defiantly use your site

From what I understand it is a good idea to stitch weld as above so that if a weld cracks it is only a small crack, as opposed to cracking along the entire length of a panel

Got the R32 running today After i bought it 3 months ago with a blown head gasket its been nothing short of a headache, but today I got it fired up - and I couldn't be happier! now I just need to register it + wheel alignment and she will be ready to go Quick run down; R32 GTS4 Freshened up engine, new gaskets etc... RB25 turbo, split dump and R34 intercooler Standard airbox with opened up intake Not much, but it all looks completely stock - just the way I like it

Have you tried resetting your idle - few diy's here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...ob-t174735.html

I was hoping to just edit my first post, but I thought the info might just be handy to someone one day, so apologies for the unnecessary bumping. I wasted a bunch more time this weekend on this stupid car, but I am pretty sure it is the ignitor/power transistor. I hooked up a test led to the plug which comes from the ecu with the signal to the ignitor, which flashed at the appropriate intervals when turning the cas. Then pluged the + and E leads into a spare coil pack and a test lead into the - and tapped the test lead onto an earth, result, spark. I tested the - wires in the wiring harness for continuity, and they tested ok. So the weak link appears to be the ignitor/power transistor whatever you call it, and the noise I was hearing from the coil packs was obviously my sanity draining away, blip by blip... Anyways, Merry Christmas

Hey all, Finally put my r32 back together after a blown head gasket (many headaches along the way of course) its full of the required fluids, battery is charged but she refuses to fire. Symptoms as follows: Cranks over fine. Computer error codes - said all is ok. When manually turning the cas, output voltages drop out regularly, I can hear the injectors fire and smell petrol, I can hear the idle air valve open and close, I can hear the coil packs make a ticking noise (a bit like tapping a glass with a screwdriver) but when I sit a spark plug on a ground point I have no spark. I have hit the plug with sand paper and it earth's ok (checked with multimeter) and made sure the earths for the ignitor are ok. I checked each coil pack for the correct resistance and they are all within the tollerence in the manual, and inspected for cracks/rust/filth and they are ok. I know it is probably something simple, but I have poured over the manual, spent ages searching, but I just cant figure it out! So any help would be greatly appreciated

The alarm would go off with just the keys, and if the cop said we shall shift it for you, you could pull out the #1 remote and tell him you will give it one more go

mabey check tyre pressures, or has it been a while since it rained - the longer between downpours makes it slippry'er, or just that you have grown more confident since it was new you are giving it a bit more of the right foot. Oh, and you will notice the difference with each wheel on different surfaces - its a friction thing. if you are worried about it, get the suspension checked out by a specialist, mabey get a wheel allignment while you are there

Bah, you ruined it svd087 by bringing facts into the story

Thanks Ben, you are a prince among men

I have done some testing and it looks like my CAS is gone, so I was wondering if anyone around Hobart has a CAS to suit an RB20DET I could borrow to see if this car I have been putting back together will fire up (I bought it in bits) If it works I will give you some coin for it if you want to offload it, or I will give you a six pack when I return it. I am so close to seeing if it works! If anyone can help me out I would very much appreciate a PM

Its always the important stuff that gets lost in the post, has happened to me more than once - even from couriers. You will do your head in trying to get the coin back, better off to take the hit, and ask for registered post next time

Nice video, interesting to see the different lines they both take - Awesome work by the vortex, considering the R1 motor is a 1 litre engine!

I liked the volkswagen Un-Pimp my ride series of ad's - I would look them up, but Im at work...

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone can let me know how I can find the guys that ran JDS in hobart, from what i understand they have set up shop by themselves somewhere in Derwent Park. I would appreciate it if someone could tell me where they are or even a phone number would be great. Thanks

This thing is just not going to budge! driving me nuts! Does anyone have any other ideas please

Putting your speaker inside an enclosure can yield great results - I have played around with this before and you can hear the difference between boxes - I tried blindfold tests with a friend, he didn't believe me they were the same type of driver. At the very least, sound deadening is a must, if you can - box them. I prefer a sealed box for a bit tighter response, but if you want big bass, then vented is the way to go. It all depends on how far you are prepared to go to get the best sound out of your speakers - even a great speaker can sound rubbish if mounted poorly.

Nice one, thanks

Just wondering if anyone had a good, foolproof method of removing the pulley, I will be tearing down the block tomorrow and this is my first job for the day. I have found a guide on removing it, the guy basically levers it off with a pinch bar, but I am a bit worried that I might crack the oil pump. The other options are heating it up, which I though might be a more sensible approach - but I was just wondering if anyone had a better way, or can confirm a good way of removing it This is the link to the guide I found if you are curious. Thanks kindly in advance

I had a subaru liberty with a surprising amount of torque for towing, I pulled a few trailers full of crap / cars etc up hills and things with no problems, and it was only a 2.2l manual, good car too, nice drive and never had any problems - I would consider another if I needed a tow car/daily

You have pm re- injectors, cheers

For a dirty tow car, why not a dirty ford or commodore wagon - I navigated for two different guys who used one or the other, they are cheap cars, reasonably reliable, 6 cyl with -plenty of torque for towing, cheap to buy and repair if you need to (unlike a bmw, and lets face it, you will be spending all your spare cash on a track car), heaps of room for spare parts/tools, and when you get to the track - no one looks at the tow cars...

All they are is a 5c resistor, which you wire up to the afm to trick it into thinking the air is colder, or less air so the car runs a bit leaner - i.e, is a dangerous modification and will make your engine die a horrible, painful and expensive death.

The guys at ozclubbies are a wealth of information, but if anything, make sure to tell them what your budget is and you intention for the car is, or they will assume you are building a stripped out race car. Other handy websites; http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/index.php Clubman builders in the UK http://www.locost7.info/index.php Lots of useful doco's http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=1 The new clubman book based on a Sierra (this is what I am using, adapting for Nissan bits) http://www.locostusa.com/forums/ Clubman bulders in the USA http://westfield-world.com/flash_changer.html Flash app to help with colour schemes for your clubman To register it, you will need to apply to build an ICV - Individual Constructed Vehicle. Your local transport authority will have the forms and a list of Engineers - check on oz-clubbies for recomendations for who to go to. They will check the car at various points of the build and will be your first point of call regarding the rules to get it registered, so it is important to find someone who is good, and that you get along with. Last of all, dont underestimate how much work is involved, I am 1 year in and probably ~300 hours (and half way done). The build will affect your social life, and annoy your significant other no end! Kits are about 160-200 hours, and the process is much easier when you have a supplier to talk to, but dont forget your friends on Skyline Australia, and NS I have built from scratch - My first welding project as it happens, Based on the Haynes Roadster, but heavily modified to suit Nissan donor parts: You know what they say about there is always someone worse off than you, well - there is always someone more crazy than you, in this case, it's me