sidewazegtst

Just a quick word on how it went for me, yep it's all about jiggling the harness baby haha. Servo is back working perfectly, no fault codes came up at all once I did that and ran a check. SUPER thread and 100% helpful that's for sure. Hopefully a Mod will 'Sticky' this as it will come in handy. Cheers all.

Yep, should be fun bro . I'm still looking for the info I need but sure, I'll make a post on this when I get things rolling.

This was exactly what I was looking for . Last week my system stopped blowing heat despite turning the temp all the way up. Being November, yeah a lil chilly here in Canada haha. Hopefully this will help solve my issue but I do have a couple of questions. 1. I removed my a/c system so will that effect the microcomputer's self testing at all? 2. Is it possible to manually push the servo motor to the full hot position? Thanks so much and I'll let ya know what happens. Cheers

Hey guys. Ok basically I've searched around but have had no luck finding what I'm looking for. I will be swapping a 26 engine in to my R32 GTS-t. I know the motor will bolt right up to either my RB20 tranny (yes I know it's not all that strong) or the RB25 tranny at which point I'll also need the 25 drive shaft. Motor mounts are no issue, I can use my current ones, oil pan I know is either the 20 or 25 or both (need to verify which), clutch is any GTR clutch from 89 to 92 so that's all covered as well. Mainly what I need some help with is the wiring. I'll have a full/uncut wire harness for the 26 and I would like to know what's envolved with wiring it all up. I've looked for some diagrams but nothing specific came up so if anyone can lend a brother a hand that would be great . I also have heard it's a good idea to use the GTR gauge cluster instead of the GTS, if so that's no problem to get either. Thanks so much guys. Cheers.

Hey guys, Arg feel so stupid asking this but I couldn't get any confirmation by searching so, gotta ask I guess. Ok basically I had the RB20de engine (N/A), decided to turbo it for sh_t's & giggles lol, using the stock RB20det parts and only running 7psi. Here's the question, RB20de and RB20det engine same plugs right? I'm almost positive yes, just wana clerifiy. Thanks everyone. Cheers

Hey everyone what's up. Ok here is my situation. I have a 92 Nissan R32 GTS (non turbo) and I have to change my brake pads. Looking at the calipers they looked just like my old 240sx with a large single piston up front, small single piston rear. So I figured I could use those pads rather then having to source OE stuff from Japan. Well the rears FOR SURE don't fit. Seems the 240sx rear brake pads are to small to fit in the caliper with approx 1 cm difference length wise. I haven't checked the fronts yet though but before I do I was hoping someone here who could confirm what pads I need and maybe what North American Nissan car I could use. Since I don't have the 4 piston front calipers I know 300zx front pads won't fit, again I am thinking the 89-96 240sx front pads will work. Am I right? With the rears, would pads from a 300zx non turbo fit? I've tried searching this forum and even my local GTR Canada forum with no luck. It's all GTS-t stuff I come across which doesn't help me . Well hope someone here could shed some light on this and help a brotha out, hehe . I appreciate it and thanks very much. Cheers

LOL, don't worry man I'll fill ya in soon. This isn't even a for sure thing yet, but it is something I have mind. Just gathering some intell from the people who have a TON of experience and who's advice/information I respect.

^^ Oh believe me I know the power difference between the two, I have a GTS-t Type M now and in driving my friends bone stock GTR VS my GTS with an R34 NEO turbo @ 10psi with other goodies, his is still faster and more responsive. As for selling, I'd sell it to my friends shop who imports Skyline's here to Canada. He'll take it as a spare motor for his GTS-4 customer's. Again, I'm getting it for practically nothing and I don't mind selling it for practically nothing, hahaha all evens out. The exhaust is the same between the two if your talking cat back. With the downpipe, well I will use the stock RB20 stuff. I'll look in to that clearence issue though and thanks for pointing it all out to me and for the other clerification too. I appreciate man . Cheers

^^^ Well I'm 30 so insurance isn't all that much for me. Roy - Well I do have use of another vehicle however it's the wife's and she needs it for her errands or taking the kids out, so I can't keep driving it. I live about an hour ish or so (driving) from work and I swore of public transportation a long time ago. It's gona take a whole season to save up the remaining money needed for this project so I still want to drive my car. I know this all seems unusual and sure the idea of just buying a beater to drive is good, it's just not the way I want to go thats all. Plus it's fun swapping an engine, at least my buddies and I enjoy doing it, having a shop to use whenever for free helps out for sure and after I'm done with the GTS-4 motor, I'll sell it. There is actually a market for the RB20 motor's here in Canada and sure I won't get a lot but I'm getting it cheap to begin with so even if I make enough to cover the fluids, I still came out ahead. I got a season of driving out of it and covered my expense for the fluids, can't go wrong there. blind_elk - You don't think there should be any added parts I'll need or modifications to do? As for the ic plumbing, yeah I've factored that in already. With the clutch master and brake booster, I think the GTS and GTR have them in the same spot and since the engine bays are the exact same size, there should'nt be any clearence issues. Hell, the RB20 motor is smaller too

Honestly, I completely understand what you guys are trying to say and truth be told, I'll be getting the motor, wire harness and ecu for only a couple hundred bucks from a buddy, I have the use of another friends shop with a hoist and all the tools to do the swap thatI don't have to pay to use and couple of buddies of mine want to help me just because they enjoy this kind of stuff. So really, I just want to know if this is a simple swap, no modifications needed to make it fit to the GTR tranny or paying a lot of money in order to make it fit. Thats why I'm asking if there's anything else besides what I will have to make this work?

Well again I can get the engine, wire harness and ecu very cheap through a buddy of mine. Would I need anything more? I was guessing (and hoping) that it would pretty much be a simple motor swap?

Ok ok don't kill me here and trust me when I say there's a method to my madness . I just wanted to know if anyone can confirm if an RB20 GTS-4 engine will bolt to an R32 GTR tranmission and the rest of the car too? I know the GTS4 is AWD just like the GTR so I'm guessing it would but I am not 100% positive. Now I'm talking a full swap including the GTS-4 engine harness and ecu as well, basically can it be done and is a bolt in thing? I can imagine you all would think I'm nuts but I can get a GTS-4 engine very cheap and I would be selling the RB26 to fund another RB26 idea I've thought of but it'll take some coin. So in order to still drive the GTR (as I can't really be without a car) I need to know if this idea will work. If it can't be done, as in a bolt on thing, then I will be forced to the other route which would be much longer to save up the money needed. Having a good chunk of money from selling a complete, perfectly running RB26 will go a long way to expiditing this project I have in mind. Honestly and truly I'm not degrading the GTR here or going to leave the RB20 engine in for very long. Think of it as a short term thing for the long term ending goal. Your help will be VERY appreciated and if this can happen with no prob's at all, I'll get in to more details on what I want to do. Thanks guys and take care. Cheers.

Hey guys. Well I'm going a different route with my exhaust so my HKS one is up for sale Item: HKS Drager Exhaust System Details: Full catback, 3.5 inch piping, HKS resinator, canister style muffler with a 5 inch tip! There are little to no scratches on the entire system, NO DENTS and is absolutely MINT! Pictures: Price: Asking $550.00 Canadian OBO, buyer pays shipping with which I will provide insurance and a tracking number. Payment Methods: Paypal is prefered and I am VERIFIED through them so the transaction is insured. I will also accept an International bank transfer as well. So please let me know here or by PM and thanks very much. Cheers

So how well would this set up work on an R32 GTS? I'll be swaping to a GTR front bumper soon and wanted to use this piping idea. I'm guessing with "slight" modding it should work out just fine.

Hey thanks man I appreciate the confirmation. I did'nt think there was as I believe I would have come across something on that by now. I've read tons of threads on this board as well as others and never seen anything mentioning this. Anyway thanks again. Take care.

Hi guys. I was wondering if anyone can confirm something for me. A buddy of mine was saying that the R32 GTS Skyline's have a little solinoid that limits the amount of boost you can run to 14psi. There is a little box located on the firewall (driver's side) with a vacum line and harness clip attached to it. This "apparently" is what limits the boost to only 14psi. Is this true? If so, can it be disconnected and will everything still work fine? Thanks everyone. Cheers

Thats perfect and what I want to find out about. As for price, well my car is fully sponsored so I don't pay for any parts but that being said if I can find options that will save some coin that will work out great. I appreciate the link man, thanks again. Cheers

I think you guys missunderstand what I'm asking. Really I am not limiting myself at all, I was just curious if there's other options out there besides the HKS ones I mentioned. Having them just bolt right up and using stock lines/fittings is a bonus and does save hassle and extra money needing to be spent. The HKS GT2535 should do what I want and be realible however, is there other brands out there that do the same and bolt up the same is what I was cursious about.

Oh by no means do I expect the turbo to be making full boost at 3000rpm's or something like that. I just don't want to have it fully come on by mid 5000rpm's ish. I also have not ruled out using the HKS GT2535 as an upgrade, I was just curious what other choices I have that bolt up and use the stock lines. further what turbo may be pretty much ideal for what my plans are.

Hey guys. Ok I'm aware of the HKS GT2530, 35 and 40 turbo's are a direct bolt on to the stock manifold, they also bolt to the turbo extension (stock or aftermarket) and even allow you to use the stock oil/coolant feed and return lines. I was wondering what other choices are available that bolt up AND can use the stock lines/fittings? I am looking for around 350 - 400rwhp when everything is all said and done. No worries as I'm aware of whats needed, modifications wise, to get there but it's only turbo selection that I am not familiar with other then the HKS units I mentioned above. Mainly my car is going to be used for daily driving/drifting so quick spool is prefered but at the same time, I don't want it to crap out at 5000rpm's. Periodically I may do the odd drag/track day too so "hopefully" the turbo will be ok for that too. Any pic's or links would be appreciated. Thanks everyone. Cheers

Hey guys. Well I searched but did'nt come up with anything concrete. So I was wondering what the stock fuel pressure on an R32 GTS with an RB20det motor is? If possible I'd like to know what it is at idle and under load in PSI. Thanks a lot. Cheers

Thanks man I appreciate the kind words. Well I don't know about the kits off ebay but I do know the bolts in the MR kits are to short but I'm glad yours worked out good and that this write up helped out. Take care. Cheers

Well I'm gona give it a try and see. The hose I circled and the other both work under vacum and I know this b/c I had a boost gauge plumbed there for a bit and everything seemed to be just fine. Any line that works under vacum is "essentialy" doing the same thing as having the hose attached to the intake on turbo. The crank case gases should (in theory) go to the can and from there be sucked in to intake plenum wether at idle or boost. It can't do any harm to try this and see how it works out. Now as far as those hoses being usefull, well the recirc for the bov it totally useless now as I have an HKS SSQV and that only leaves the tube where the breather hose used to be attached. In which case neither of them would be needed and that won't have any effect what so ever on the performance of the engine. I don't claim to know 100% certain but the thought process is sound here and again, what do I have to lose? I can always go back to your set up if there's a need to. I'll let you guys know how it worked out and take a pic when I get it done. Once though, thanks very much to all of you for your help and advice with this. I honestly appreciated all of it! Take care. Cheers

Ok so if I can't use the hoses by the valve area, what about this one?

^^^^ Ok so I have it set up like your pic. Basically I removed the cap on the recirc tube that goes to the intake on the turbo and capped the PVC valve, which is good enough for now, but over all I am not really happy with it this way. One of the reason's I was getting this can (aside from getting rid of oil vapour in my intake) was to get rid of all the stock crap like the oil breather tube, bov recirc tube and of course the rubber intake tube on the turbo which all that other shite is attached to. Now thats not gona really be possible unless I get a custom metal tube fabbed up with a nipple on it to run the hose to from the catch can. Now where the PVC valve is there are 4 other hoses attached to it. One is the vacum line for the stock fpr and then there's 3 other hoses (I'm guessing also vacum lines) so why can't I "T" off one of those lines instead? I mean I don't see what the difference would be as long as it's a vacum line because it'll work the same way as if the hose coming from the catch can was attached to the tube it is now. What do you think?