sidewazegtst

Alright I may be able to find a bolt here at work that will fit in properly where the PVC valve was but once I block that off, where would I attach the hose (coming from my catch) to instead?

Ok yeah that makes sence for sure. So is it possible to "gut" out the PVC valve or can I remove it and substitute something else? I'm at work right now so I don't have the time as yet to read all those links if the answer is there. If the answer I'm looking for IS in one of those links, could you let me know which one and then when I get time I'll read through it to find out?

For sure I'd like to know if anyone has had success with this too. It would save all the RB20 guys lots of money that could be spent on, oh I don't know...... larger injector's maybe. Anyway, super write up and I look forward to the pic's you were talking about and maybe you could fix the link to that pin out so we can download. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for sure! Cheers

Thanks man, I'll for sure read those threads to see if theres any info I can use. See I know what I'm doing, I just wanted some clerification on a couple of things, peoples thoughts or opinion's and so on. I love owning a Skyline and just want to make sure everything I do to the car is done properly, so I don't mind putting the extra time in for doing research and getting advice. Well here's the pic's of my oil catch can set up, Pic1 - this is where I capped one side of the breather that attaches to the intake on the turbo. Pic2 - the tube that joins both breathers on the valve covers together. Pic3 - the hose leading from the breather to the catch can and the "L" bend I made so the hose would'nt kink going to the intake plenum. Pic4 - where the hoses attach to the catch can. Pic5 - a shot of the full set up. Over all I'm happy with how it turned out and as long as it's working right, I'll be even more impressed. I will be changing a few things to make it look cleaner and more professional but at least it's installed and I don't think it looks to bad. So thats it but please let me know what you think and if it's done properly, which I think it is. Any comment or advice is totally welcome.

^^^^ YEAH THAT EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME! After I got home from work last night (teehee, im able to work on my car work) I just went to check on things and there was oil all around and my dipstick was pushed out too. Now there was'nt a huge amount of oil but enough that I was pretty pissed. How did he solve this??? I have the pic's but I'm getting ready to go to work now but there uploaded to my computer and I'll post them later tonight so you guys can see exactly how I did things. I plan on using teflon tape on the connections to the can it's self and secure the hoses to the nozzles better as I "think" air may be leaking from there. Anyway, pic's coming soon and again I do appreciate all your help with this guys.

Well my catch can is not venting to the air at all. Basically I've blocked off one side of the valve cover where a hose would go to the turbo intake tube. There's a hose the connects both valve covers together, from there a single hose goes to the catch can, from the catch a hose goes back to the intake plenum. So the system is under normal pressure with no venting what so ever. I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it up so you can see what I'm talking about. Again I don't "think" it's leak from anywhere however I will just put some teflon tape on both nozzels from the catch to ensure no leaking. I'm only curious if anyone else using a catch can hears the air going through it and thought it was leaking only that it was'nt.

Thanks a lot for the imput guys it was really helpfull. I installed it tonight (the way I mentioned in my post) and so far I think it's gona work out ok. I want to secure the can better then how it is now but it'll do for the time being. One other small question though, when the car is idling can you hear the air passing through the can, kinda like it's leaking air but it's not? I'm wondering if it's possible that one of the connections to it is not tight enough or, I may have to put some teflon tape on the nozzels coming from the to ensure that it is in fact air tight. Thanks again for your help on this.

Hey everyone what's up. Well I just wanted a little clerification on something with regards to oil catch can set up's as I finally got mine and want to install it. Now from what I have heard it's not good to pressurize the valve cover's by running the hoses from the breathers directly to the catch can and not back to the motor, is this true? I know it can be vented in to the air however....yeah thats a BIG emissions no no where I live. I have searched on here, my local Skyline board and here as well but have not gotten a clear answer. I've also seen pic's of different set up's so that's kinda confused me as well when it comes to figuring this whole thing out. What I thought of doing was blocking one end of the breather by the turbo, keeping both breathers attached by a hose and have a single hose go to the catch can. Then run a hose from the catch can back to the intake plenum of the motor. So the system has normal pressure but will this set up work for removing most of the oil vapour from going back in to the motor or no? Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated and thanks VERY much. Take care. Cheers

By chance you would'nt be able to get a unit for a 1989-90 R32 GTS with the RB20det motor would you? I'm guessing no b/c it was'nt on the list.

Hey guys what's up. I just had a quick question with regards to catch can setup's. Well I finally got mine and I want to install it however I'm a little confused on which way to do it. It's like there's two ways of doing it, 1) the way nizmo freek did it by blocking it off at the intake plenum and intake side of the turbo (this is how I'd like to do mine in order to get rid of all the stock crap attached to the turbo side where the maf is) 2) the way QUIKBLADE posted his set up. So my question is, which way is proper as I've heard it's not good to pressurize the vavle covers? If both hoses run to the catch can, thats what would happen am I correct? Now I have a 1990 GTS and this is what I considered doing. I was going to block one end of the of the breather on the turbo side. Keep both breathers attached by one hose (across the coilpack cover) and then having both breathers on one hose to the catch can. Then have one hose go from the catch can to the intake plenum on the motor. My thinking for this is that all vapours/oil go from the motor into the catch can and "hopefully" cleaner air with less moisture will go back to the motor. The system is still under normal pressure as it's attached to the engine, right or wrong? I am probabley making more of this then needs be however, I just don't want to screw anything up. So any clerification here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.

Well I just ordered two more for a couple of buddies of mine. Thanks Mark!

Hey thanks for the input insu I appreciate it. The bov on my 240 was'nt leaking though and by turning up the idle, when you let off at wide open throttle, it did'nt allow the rpm's to drop to low and thus cause the engine to stall. The normal idle was round 700rpm's ish (simliar to the RB) and dropped by 500-600 rpm's when I let off the gas. So with it going that low, the engine would stall. Once I turned it up that provided me more of a cushion and aided in preventing a stall. I do completely understand what you wrote above though and it could very well be true too. Oh well, all I can do is run the atmospheric bov at regular idle and see what happens. If I find that I am stalling out I'll turn up the idle a little and see the results from that. I did'nt think adjusting it from the screw would effect anything whenever I reset the ecu but I wanted to ask just to be on the safe side. Again, thanks so much for your help man and I'll keep you posted on this as my bov is coming in this week. Take care brother. Cheers

You answered my question perfectly man, thank you. I was'nt sure if the RB's had a fuel cut or not so now I know which unit to go after. Yeah I've had the limeter cut in when I hit roughly 190km's, which irks me to say the least. Anyway thank you very much again I really appreciated your help and input on this. Take care and all the best. Cheers

Now I mean NO dissrespect or insult but, what do you base that answer on or how do you know for sure? I'm just talking about the two links on the HKS products. I just want to be positive before purchasing, that's all.

Hi guys. Ok I know about retuned ECU's and stand alone systems for cutting out the 190km p/hr speed cut but there's also two units from HKS and I wanted to know which is the "PROPER" one to use? There is this one, http://cgi.ebay.ca/HKS-FCD-Fuel-Cut-Defenc...1QQcmdZViewItem and this one, http://cgi.ebay.ca/New-HKS-Speed-Limit-Def...1QQcmdZViewItem I am guessing the second link I posted is the correct one but I just wanted some confirmation. This will be used on my 1989-90 R32 GTS-T Type M, RB20det motor. Thanks a lot, I do appreciate it. Cheers

Mark I am VERY relieved to hear everything is ok with your unborn baby! I completely understand what a scare it can be as when my wife was pregnent last summer, they found an absess on our baby. We were extremely worried but it turned out to be ok as it dissapeared in a week or so. I hope everything continues to be just fine and let us all know when the baby is born, the sex, weight and of course the name. Well installed the controller last week and added a 1/4 turn to the setting it arrived with. WOW WHAT A DIFF! Throttle response is greatly improved, boost comes on sooner by approx 600-800rpm's, boost is held constant and does'nt fall in the higher rpm's and overall, yeah my car is loving it! I'm not to sure what the exact level I am running as I have'nt installed my boost gauge and only have the stock one but I'm sure it's around 10psi and the car seems to be reacting wonderfully to the added power. Talk about nice and easy too. I simply installed it in the wastegate accuator hose and that was it. No messin with solinoids or anything like that. So I give this controller a 10 out of 10 so far. Thanks again Mark for it and take care. Cheers

A/F gauges are wired to your O2 sensor. They usually have 2 or 3 wires (power, ground and signal) and you simpley wire your gauge to those wires. Now I would suggest you do this on the main harness after the plug for the simple reason that when you replace your O2 sensor you won't have to remove the wiring from your A/F gauge. If you need anything else, let me know. Take care. Cheers

Wow that was a super write up man, great job! I just had a couple of questions and hopefully you'll be able to answer them. 1. I have an RB20det, will this process be the same on this motor? 2. Does the adjustment screw work the same way on my engine? I will be using an atmospheric bov soon and I thought about turning the idle up a couple hundred rpms to help with stall out issues. I did that on my 240sx and it worked great so I'm wondering if it can be done with my Skyline. and lastly, I don't have any idle issues but by adjusting the screw on the motor and NOT the ECU to turn the rpm's up (for the bov purpose) when I reset the ECU will that cause any issues or no? Thanks for this in advance and again, VERY NICE write up.

Hi everyone. Well I'm not sure if anyone here has heard of or even uses Megan Racing products however, this shifter is great and I previously had it in my 240sx. So because I loved it so much, I bought another one and yep, I'm happy. Despite that it's not a JDM product I must say that the MR short shifter is worth every penny. It's a very solid unit, percise through and makes it approx 40% shorter then stock. Ok well lets get down business here. Tools Needed: Socket Wrench, Extender, 10mm Socket, Knife or Razor Blade, Needlenose Plyers, Flathead Screwdriver and Thread Lock. Other Items Needed: 4 x longer bolts (the ones provided with the short shifter are to short). Basically bring one of the silver brackets from your short shifter to any local hardware store (I usedHome Depot here in Canada) along with one of the allan head bolts and get four (4) new ones that are double the length of the ones supplied in the kit. Then test that they fit the bracket but screwing them in. I'd suggest buying actual bolts though and ones that with a 10mm head so you don't need to switch sockets. Thats what I did but it's not manditory. You will also want a new shifter bushing. DO NOT use the one provided in the kit. Simply go to Nissan and order a shifter bushing for any model 240sx. It costs like $2.00 ish and is best for this install. Steps: 1. First remove the stock shifter knob. It may be on quite tight but if you want to reuse you shifter boot (with out cutting it) keep twisting untill you here it cracked lose. Once it's off, remove the shifter boot from the center console piece. It comes really easy and you should now see the stock rubber boot and metal retainer ring. 2. Using your Ratchet, extender and 10mm socket remove the 4 bolts on the metal ring. You can then remove the ring and stock rubber boot by just lifting them up. There's actually two (2) boots inside each other. Mine happened to stay stuck together as one but if yours does'nt, no worries. Put these to the side. 3. Now you should see another rubber boot, smaller then the other one, that is attatched to the shifter by way of a little platic ziptie. Now mine happened to already be pouched as in it was cracked and ripped. Again, no big deal as your removing it anyway and not using it all with this short shifter. So either take it off as a whole piece or rip it off in pieces, either way it does'nt matter. The lower shifter assembley should not be exposed. 4. Ok this part is little tough due to the fact you must now remove two (2) spring clamps that hold the shifter in place. One (1) of them has two (2) little round holes on the ends of it and the other does'nt. Now I removed the one with the round holes first. Simply get hold of one end using your needle nose plyers and pulll. The other one is a little more tricky and I used my knife and plyers here. Basically use the point of your knife to push one end out enough that you can then grab it with the plyers and again, pull! With those out you can now remove the stock shifter, simpley pull up. Below the shifter is the ball housing that you can also pull out but be carefull, there's a little round metal gasket beneath it. You'll need that so get it too. You now have a clear view in to your tranny. 5. Now on the stock shifter you'll notice a plastic round ring. You'll need to remove it in order to have your new shifter sitting down tight with no rattling. As the stock shifter does'nt come apart in two pieces, you'll have to cut the ring on one side and take it off that. Be carefull you don't snap it in two piece's but if that happens, don't fret you can still use the ring. Oh and FYI, you can't order that piece from Nissan by it's self I know, I've tried. Take your new shifter bushing and push it on to the MR shifter. It's a little tough but what I did was put the bushing on the end of the shifter, grabbed a rag and wrapped that over it, pulled tight, put the shifter on the ground and pushed my weight down on it. It should snap right in to place. 6. Ok your now ready to install your short shifter. I've included a link on how the whole assembley goes in to the transmission but on the new shifters a couple of things have changed. The blue metal ring is now silver and the blue square bracket is now silver. Other then that though, it's right. However it does'nt show anything about using the stock plastic shifter ring as this was something I came up with on my own. First unsrcew the shifter in to two (2) pieces. Using the end that goes in to the transmission you first put the stock plastic ring on (flat side up facing you) then the other plastic spacer ring provided in your shifter kit. You then apply thread lock to that end and screw the shifter back in to one (1) piece using only hand/arm strenght and tighten it as much as you can. 7. First place the little metal gasket in, then the silver metal spacer ring from your kit, then the shifter ball housing, then the shifter itself. The shifter will only fit in one certain way and look right. If you put it in and the shifter is pointing towards your radio deck, take it out and turn it around. The stock plastic ring sits in the ball housing and the new spacer ring on top of that. http://www.drestudios.com/howto/megan.htm 8. Prior to putting the bracket in place I found it much easier to losely attach one (1) bolt in each silver bracket on oppisite corners of the silver square bracket. Slide the square on to the shifter and then put each of the metal brackets in to the slits on the shifter housing of the transmission. Thats what holds everything in place so ensure that each bracket is in the slit. Then put in the last two (2) bolts and go in a criss/cross pattern to finger tighten them down with one hand, while holding the brackets tight in the slit with the other hand. It's a little awkward but it's important so that the whole assembley is attatched securely. After it's really snug, use your ratchet again and tighten down the bolts again in a criss/cross pattern to make sure they are indeed tight! 9. Pull up on the shifter and make sure there's no upward movement and that it's tight. If so, you can now put back the stock rubber shifter boot(s), then the metal retaining ring, use your ratchet to tighten the four (4) 10mm bolts in a criss/cross pattern. Then put your leather shifter boot over the shifter, screw on the knob supplied or your own and BINGO YOUR DONE!!! So start your car and go for a drive. It'll take you a few minutes to get used to it and don't be surprised if you let of the clutch faster then you shift and vise versa. After a little drive, you'll be good and I'm sure you'll enjoy it. If there's any questions, comments or concerns feel free to ask and I'll be more then happy to address them. I don't have any pictures as I actually installed this while at work. That's one of the good things about my job, I have lots of free time to work on my car. If anyone is interested in purchasing one, PM me because I get them at a very sweet deal on them. I have'nt sold anything here yet but I am VERIFIED with Paypal so your money would be insured as well (don't quote me) but I don't think shipping will cost to much either. Probabely around $20.00 ish. Well enjoy and have a good one. Cheers

Well I ordered one a while back and I'm gona install it today. Now it did'nt come with instructions (not that it's really hard anyway) but I just wanted a little clerification on installing it. I have a 1990 R32 GTS-t, RB20det and does the controller get connected to the vacum line coming from the wastegate actuator? As well is which way is it supposed to facing as in, the adjustment knob facing vertically or horizontally. I just don't want to put it on backwards or anything. I'm not being lazy, as I have read most of the replys in this thread, but that was prior to buying and I can't remember if there was anything concrete (install wise) for installing this on an RB20det motor. I'd appreciate anything you guys can do and if you have any pic's that you could be post up, I'd be most greatfull. Thanks a lot.

You helped me soooooooo much man, thank you. I was hoping it was something like that. As for the fine, it's actually not to heavy a fine here and I don't go in to the "problem" spots where cops like to wait *cough*streetraces*cough* so most likely I'll be fine. I do appreciate your warning on it though. Thanks again brother for everything. Take care. Cheers

Hey everyone what's up. I wanted to know if the sensor attached to the Catalitic converter is simply reads the temp of the exhaust or does it work like the O2 sensor in the turbo extension? Basically I want to know if I can remove that cat sensor all together and not have it screw up any readings going to the ecu or, if I bang a pipe through the cat (so my exhaust is straight through yet still appears legal) and I leave the sensor would that do anything? I appreciate the help on this one guys, thanks so very much. Take care. Cheers

Thats great, thanks a lot brother. I'll wait to hear from ya!

First....SUPER LINKS GUYS! Thats soooooooo helpfull knowing this just incase my buddy can't source that GTR latch. Second....I third the GB idea so you can put my name to the list as soon as it comes up or PLEASE pm me if it's a go. Obviously I'll pay the extra needed to ship it to me in Canada. I'd want one in black for sure. Take care guys. Cheers

Hey man. Ok first make sure your battery connections are on VERY tight. Believe it or not, if they are'nt tight the car may not start. So do that and turn the key two clicks and see if the lights on the dash come on and your fuel pump turns on. If so, the car should start up fine. If not, check all your fuses in the engine bay and inside the car and use a test light on either side of the fuse to ensure one or more is'nt blown. You will probabley have to try them all and that does mean turning the key a click or two (depending on how the fuse is set to come on) to do this. If that all checks out, well then you have a worse problem but lets not think like that yet. Try this and let us know. Good luck man. Cheers