sidewazegtst

Hi everyone. Well I'm looking for the HKS ssqv bov with pipe and flange. Here is a pic of what I'm talking about, New or used is ok and I have cash in hand. So please let me know here or by PM along with your asking price. Thanks very much. Cheers

Hey man. Yeah I'm interested in the fmic and piping too. Could you email me pic's to [email protected] ? Thanks a lot and take care. Cheers

Hey man what's up. I just wondered if your firm on the price? I only ask b/c for a little more I can get a brand new one shipped to my door here in Canada from eBay. Now I'm not trying to compare to ebay as no one really can but your SAFC is used so just wondering why the higher price? Only curious, not trying to wreck your thread. Anyway, please let me know. Thanks and take care. Cheers

Hey man thanks for the info on which way is which. That confirms what I heard. Now I know TPS usually stands for Throttle Position Sensor however my buddy was talking about some timing position sensor and that it has to be dissconected. Is he right or no? I thought I just disconnect the battery, adjust the cam angle sensor, reset the ecu and that's that. I just don't want to fuzz anything up doing this. As I said I just want to put it back to roughly stock, nothing more. I am curious though as to what you said regarding advancing timing. I've always read and been told you retard the timing on a turbo charged motor, not advance it, in order to get better response and prevent detination? Also my engine seems sluggish right now in the low rpm's when it should just go if I pin the throttle and all I can attribute that to is the timing being advanced. My motor is currently bone stock (even the stock air box :lol: ) so again there was no real logical reason for the advance.

Hi guys. I just wanted to know which way is advance and which is retard on the cam angle sensor (round piece on timing cover)? As well I heard that the Timing Position Sensor has to be dissconected as well is this true? If so where is it exactly? A pic or diagram would be sweet. Currently, for some stupid reason, my timing is advanced by approximately 5 degrees and it appears my CAS is turned more towards the driver's side of the car. All I plan on doing is attempting to get it back to the stock reading of 20 degrees. If by chance I retard it by a degree well, it's better then being advanced. I'm also hoping doing this will improved throttle response as it's a little sluggish in the low rpm's. Thanks everyone I appreciate this. Cheers B)

Item: COMPLETE AC System from 1990 R32 GTS-T Location: Oshawa, Ontario Canada Item Condition: Perfect Working Condition Reason for Selling: Don't need or want it Price and Payment Conditions: Asking $100.00 for everything OBO Money Order or Paypal is just fine, buyer pays shipping (which ever method you decide) however I would recomend insurance and tracking number. Better safe then sorry I always say. Extra Info: Included in this sale is the compressor, evaporator, a/c fan, condensor/ac rad and hopefully all the lines as long as they don't crack or break when I remove them. I'll of course let the buyer know if that happens. The digital climate controll and vents are NOT included though. I would also trade this, pay the shipping cost and if needs be the difference for a Speed Cut Defender or any other similar item that removes the speed limiter. Contact Details: Buyer can contact me here, through PM or email me at [email protected] and from there all the details can be arranged. Thanks for viewing. Cheers B)

GRRRRRRR did'nt think of the rear main seal but that's prob what my prob is too. Looking at your pic, it's similar to my issue. It does'nt leak like a sive but when I push the car hard I notice a little puddle and it drips from the lowest point which would be the bell housing of the tranny. Crap....NOW IM PISSED! I will go through and check that all my bolts are tight but other then the head gasket or rear main seal there really is'nt any other place it could come from. Funny thing is my oil level has'nt really changed at all. :lol:

Hey dude what's up. They are universal. I had one on my 240sx when I turbo charged the kade motor and I needed something to controll the SR 370cc injector's. Now unless you have larger injectors and/or different MAF there's no real need to use an SAFC. It's mainly ment to trick the ecu as it's a "piggy back" fuel controll unit. So unless your going with upgrades like that, the stock ecu is good enough. It's still good to keep it untill you do the upgrades as it'll be usefull for nice fine tuning on the dyno. SAFC_Manual.pdf

Dude....YOU ARE THE BEST! I owe you one mate.

DAM your lucky and unfortuneately....no I'm on another continent. LOL If you could maybe find out how to get rid of it on my R32 GTS, RB20det, that would be sweet dude. Just drop me a PM if you don't want to post it up and thanks in advance.

^^^^ Yeah man it was in the article. I'll dig up the magazine after I find which box I packed it in after my famil and I move in to our new house. I can't remember what the name of the magazine was but if it comes to me, I'll let you know and maybe you can check it out for yourself. This was back maybe 3 years ish ago. I'm not trying to start anything here man, just telling what my understanding to the name has been. Well all call the RB26 Godzilla here in Canada. As for the article, it's just what I've read that's all. Cheers mate. B)

Ok other then "susposedly" cutting the #53 wire to the ECU or retuning it, has anyone come up with a sure fire way of getting rid of it? If so, have you had any issues? Cheers B)

Well from my understanding the title of Godzilla is given to the RB26dett motor, not the car it's self. With a motor that will take just about anything your through at, on stock internals, certainly deserves the name. I still have a magazine where Top Secret built an 841whp RB26, that's a daily driver, and it was de-tuned! The internals where stock as well so, other then the mkIV Supra 2JZ, there's nothing else out there that can really boast that. So wether it's an R32, 33 or 34 GTR you have Godzilla under the hood. Anyway, that's my thinking. Have a good one. Cheers B)

Hey man. With the amount of boost you want to run, and volume of air coming, don't choak the motor with a small exhaust. You'd get more gains with a 3 inch system (at least from the cat back) without really sacrificing anything down low. Just a thought for you and yeah it's tough to tell what your numbers will be. I mean a lot of people say 1lbs of boost is rough 6-10hp depending on your motor, mods and so on. So play it safe at 5hp x 14lbs = 70hp ish from boost, another 15ish intake/exhaust and a nice dyno secsion....you'd be around 300hp give or take. Now these are conservitive numbers and it's always best to go with that so you won't get your hopes up only to be dissapointed. If you get more...bonus. If you don't, eh at least you won't be pissed. Good luck with your project man and let us know how it turns out. Take care. Cheers B)

Hi guys. Ok I know this is probabley a stupid question, and I'm almost positive about the answer but I just want to make 100% sure. So here goes...Are R32 GTS and GTR aftermarket (cat back) exhaust systems interchangeable? The reason I'm asking this is because my sponsor has a line on a couple of sweet GTR cat back systems and before he gets one for me I want to make sure it will fit my GTS? I'm almost positive it would but to be on the safe side could someone please verify this. Thanks very much and sorry for such a "noob" question Cheers B)

Hey guys. Well I'm not sure if this has been covered but just incase I thought I'd post it up. This install goes for either an OE, 300zx, GTR or Walboro pumps. It's neat that it's EXACTLY the same as a 180sx/240sx/S13 Silvia. Nissan sure is smart. Anyway here goes. Tools Required: Phillip's screw driver, 10mm socket wrench, wire strippers/crimpers, needle nose plyers and 2-4 electrical crush fittings (if they are'nt provided) 1. Open the gas tank and unscrew the gas cap to release the air preasure. 2. Pull the fuel pump fuse and put it off to the side for a second. 3. Start the car untill the engine stops to get all the fuel out of the lines. You may want to start it up a couple of more times to be sure all the fuel is out of the lines. Then put the fuse back. 4. Pull the carpet up in the trunk on the right side. 5. You will then see a cover plate with an arrow pointing to the front of the car, held by two (2) screws, and an access panel, held by four (4) screws, with wires leading across and down towards the tank. 6. Take the two (2) screws off of the cover plate and to reveal the fuel pump wire harness and un-clip it. There is now NO power and your safe to work. 7. Now remove the four (4) screws holding on the access panel. Underneath you'll see the fuel sending unit cover held on by six (6) bolts and two (2) fuel lines attached to it as well held by spring clamps. 8. Start by using a pair of plyers and slide the clamps back so you can detach the lines from the unit. Remember to slide them back far enough so the lines will come off but, not to far that you can't easily grab them when it comes time to put the unit back in. Also be VERY carefull when removing the fuel hoses off of the sending unit as I've seen the metal pipes crack all to often. If that does happen, don't fret to hard as there is a solution. At Canadian Tire is a product call Steel Easy which is a cold weld and looks like clay. You simply remove enough to cover and fill in the crack, combine the two compounds together between your fingers and apply it firmly and smooth it out. It drys pretty quick so make sure to get it on there. It does take a full 24hrs to fully cure and harden so DO NOT turn on the car for that period of time. This stuff is gasoline proof so it will not come off once it's hardened. You've now saved your sending unit. If you break the pipe right off well......your SOL! 9. Then remove the six (6) bolts and take the entire unit out of the tank. The trunk access panel will still be attached so don't worry. Try to shake off as much gas as you can and put a rag under it and carry it over to a table to work on. 10. You will see a postive and negative wire (Red and Black respectively) on the old pump. Clip those wires in the middle. Then clip the Zap Strap holding the pump to the actual unit. 11. There will be a piece of fuel hose attached to the pump in the center. Using plyers, slide the spring clamp up and pull the hose off the pump. There may also be a breather tube on the pump. Remove that too! 12. The pump should now be free and clear. Take your new pump and new filter bag and attach it to the new pump at the bottom by pushing it on. Then attach the new ruber mount to bottom of the pump. You can also use the sponge sleve and slide it over the pump now if you wish. I did'nt bother though. 13. Now using the wires provided with pump, attach the positive and negative wire, respectabely, back together. Then attach them to the correct terminals on your new pump. With Walboro's there is a harness that clips in to the pump and then you splice together the wires to the sending unit. Use crush fittings for ALL wire connections NOT tape. The gas will make the tape come off easily (no matter what type you use) and you'll have that floating around in your tank. You then can attach the fuel hose back on to the center of pump and slide the spring clamp back in place. With some new pumps the breather tube was not needed but it may be with yours. Make sure to check that. 14. Using the new Zap Straps, secure the new pump on to the sending unit. Your now ready to put it back in the tank. Just bolt and screw everything back in place in the reverse order. Don't forget to attach the two (2) fuel lines too. Now clip the harness back together in the trunk and your ready to try and start the car. First turn the key to the "ON" position and listen to hear the pump. It will sound like a humming sound. If you hear that you know you installed it right. Start the car. It may take a couple of try's but if everything is done right your car will come to life. That's it, your done! Hope this helps anyone wanting to change there pumps. It's easy and only minimal tools are required and a little mechanical knowledge. Good luck. Cheers B)

Hey guys. Ok just wanted to be sure on a couple things. I gave the part number BCPR6ES to my Father N Law (who's a sales rep for an automotive company here in Canada) and "apparently" NGK has changed there numbers here and are now BCPR6E. They've dropped the "S" but when I punch in both numbers on www.ngk.com both types of plugs come up so I'm a little confused. The ones I have are NGK V-Power RESISTOR TYPE plugs, #BCPR6E and I just want to know I'm all good to use these? I'm also running stock boost for now so according to what's been said I use a 1.1mm gap right? Thanks for this fella's, I just want to know I have everything right so I can change my plugs tomorrow. BTW, this thread REALLY must be a "Sticky" as it's full of great and usefull info that people can refer to whenever needed.

Hey SalEsh what's up. It's nice to see that I'm not the only Canadian on here. :lol: Anyway I was contemplating the same thing so when you actually install do a "How To" post with pic's as I'm sure people will use the info (like me ) when and if they install a catch can. Well good luck with it and keep us posted. Cheers B)

Your very welcome man, glad I could be of service.

Hello everyone. Ok from what I've been reading here the RB25 turbo is a great upgrade for the RB20 motor when you want to run around 12psi + daily. So it looks like I'm gona do that and plus I can get one from a buddy thats in MINT shape for a sweet deal. I just had a couple of questions, Do the oil and coolant lines attach with no modding? Is a different size oil restrictor needed? Does the RB20 turbo extension bolt up to the RB25 turbo or would I need the 25 turbo extension? If I must use the RB25 turbo extension will that bolt to the stock RB20 downpipe? I just wanted to know this so the swap goes easy and I know I won't have any major issues. Thanks a lot. Cheers B)

Hey everyone. Ok did my emissions test and the car passed the curb/idle test but failed under load. Now b/c my temp plate was up today I had to go "do " another test which of course I passed. Now anyway here's my issue, according to the sheet I'm running a bit rich and I wanted to know what most likely would be the problem. Here's a run down on my car, 1990 GTS, bone stock, 102K km's. I have reset the ecu to run on 94 octane (the highest grade available in Canada at the pumps, used a bottle of injector cleaner and octane boost to help clean the system but have not change my plugs as yet. So here's the normal possibilities, 1. BAD PLUG(S) 2. BAD O2 SENSOR 3. BAD COILPACK(S) I am trying to trouble shoot but based on what I wrote above what do you guys think it most likely will be? As well when the car is idling and I punch the throttle from under the hood it sounds kinda sluggish but then catches and goes. It's almost like a dead cylinder but of course once the rpm's are up there everything seems fine. So again, bad plug(s) or coilpack(s)? Would that really contribute to running rich b/c that seems more like a bad O2 sensor to me? LOL, who knows could be all the above. I just wanted some of your thoughts on this and I appreciate it. Take care all. Cheers B)

Hey Sam, Ok it's really easy. The red wire on your O2 is power, the black ground and the white is your signal wire. That's where you want to splice in to. Do not cut the wire, just peel back the cover and wrap your air/fuel gauge wire around it and tape the whole connection securely. As well do this prior to where the O2 sensor/wire harness connection is. That way when you have to change your O2 sensor you won't have to undo the wiring. Now for a 12v switched power source you can splice in to your headlight controlls so when you turn your lights on at night, the gauges will dim like they are supposed to. Use a test light to locate that wire along with a good chasis ground and your all. The only wire that should be attatched to your O2 sensor is the signal wire from your gague. I hope this helps out. Cheers B)

+1 for some really great info. Well done guys I'm sure this will help out a lot of people. Cheers B)

Hey Shaun I just have a couple of questions for ya that's actually regarding the swap and not your swell polishing job :lol: 1. Outside of needing the motor, tranny (or RB25 tranny), drive shaft, ecu and wire harness was there anything else required to make it fit or was it a direct drop in? I'm asking b/c as I stated before I am really considering doing this swap in the near future. Thanks a lot and again, VERY SWEET SWAP! Cheers B)

As for the test pipe not being legal, well I don't know all your laws with regards to cat's being on cars or emissions rules either. I do know here test pipe's are not allowed and with no cat, there's no way in hell a car would pass the etest. Well you don't "have" to have an impact gun but it's the best. If you do wrench them down yourself just get it as tight as possible so you don't have any exhaust leaks. Impact guns just ensure that won't be an issue, that's all. Other then that, ya your good to go mate. Let me know how it all works out. Cheers B)