AdamsR33

Well done Ando, much better then that poofter purple!

Umm i live near OP! yes i hear the cars but its music to my ears. Neil is right, the area around OP was re-zoned as residental and the owners of OP saw the big bucks and sold it to a developer. Didn't want to spend the money on upgrading and renovating the track and facilities.

No prizes for guessing which model i have, i chose my car becuase i like the look of the s2 33, but find the s1 ugly,i have a family with two young kids, so the size of the 33 was a big plus. I do track days with SAU NSW members and the 33 is the best handling car i've owned. I have never driven a 32 but i have to say it was the 32 gtr's of richards and skaife that got me interested. The choice is personal taste, i don't know if the weight advantage of 60-80kg's is going to make the 32 any better of a car around corners and to tell the truth i don't care, i love my car and i'll keep driving it as hard as i can (at the track of course!) I feel comfortable and have confidence in that i know what it's gona do and when. My advice is the find a car you feel the same way with too, either car is as good as it makes you feel. They're both Skylines and depending on who you ask one is better then the other, but the one which is better for you is for you to decide.

Hi Liz, how you goin? before you do anything let me know what your thinking, ok!

Mate got the same kit on mine the other day, the bracket on the shock itself is for your brakes line and the little bolt is to hold it on, the ring i didn't use as i didn't know myself what is was for, i guessed it was a spacer for the bottom of the shocks but as i said didn't use it cause i wasn't sure. No the shocks didn't come with any new bushes or plates, you use the same plates and new bushes from an auto shop.Hope i helped.

Gidday Liz, glad to see you again, and sorry about your sweet pimp mobile. Need a hand with anything you know my number, and glad to see your okay. Just concentrate on getting better and i'll talk to you soon. Merry christmas and happy new year too.

Skrags, if your running stock ECU it will not let your boost go any higher than 10psi, it sees too much air and thinks there is a problem and starts rich and retard. As stated Dale FZ1 its nissan's failsafe so you won't blow the motor. To run this much boost you will need to run a piggy back ECU or a full ECU like a PFC. Some owners have been able to get more than 10psi but not much more. And besides the stock turbo is nearing its limit at 12psi. If i were you i wouldn't go much past 10psi anyway.

Series 1 headlights Series 2 headlights

Well cubes i hope this fixes your problem, only thing is though i've just replaced mine with brand new splitfires, so i don't think this is my problem. The reason you get a bigger bang from your car than mains power is because of the amperage, thats the power side electricity.

Here's mine, stock but with exhaust and pod, also earthed stock boost soleniod so have full 8psi all through rev range.

Gidday Mafia, this is Garys recommended settings which you can get with this kit For the street here are my recommended settings; Front Camber -1.00 Front Caster +7.00 (slightly more on the left to offset the drift to the gutter) Front Toe 0.00 Rear Camber -0.5 Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side For the track; Front Camber -2.50 Front Caster +7.00 (or more if you can get it) Front Toe 2 mm out each side Rear Camber -1.25 Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side As you can see the big change is camber, what most the guys do (me included) is to use the Whiteline camber kits to adjust the camber when they have the car jacked up to put the track tyres on. Just get the wheel aligner to mark the amount of rotation you need for the 2 settings. Then you simply rotate the offset bush for the right amount (track or road). The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that GTSTs handle best around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard).

Put this in today, car feels much tighter and confident on the road. One happy customer here Gary, thanks.

Umm mate i think you miss interpreted my post, i actually like the look of the new commodore and in the not too distant future will be looking at buying a new statesman.All i was tring to say is really the same as you, til i got flamed by ctjet.

i've owned 4 commodores, 1 brand new VT, 1 brand new clubsport, 1 secondhand VX berlina and 1 VS wagon, not one of them had diff trouble, so its not common as you might think. None of these cars actually had any problems, just normal service and wear and tear stuff like brakes and crap. Don't know where you get your info from but if you talk the truth show us the facts.

so whats the name for it then smarty??

Lets hope so, could you do us a favor and post some pics, as i have no idea where these hoses and stuff are. Thanks and good luck!

thought it was the AFM. good to see yous got it going.

ECU sees throttle at a certain point through the TPS but reads more air going in through the AFM, works out that there shouldn't be that much air going in at that throttle position and whacks in R+R. When full throttle is used, sees throttle fully open, heaps of air should be going in so... you get the picture?

What series is it?looks like S1 if thats the one in your pic, s2 stock ECU's don't like boost near or over 10psi, thinks car is overboosting so puts it into R+R, then again some s2 owners have run 10 or more without R+R kicking in. S1's i think can go to 12psi before R+R kicks in. Next question, is the shudder erratic or even, like a beat?

cubes, did it before fuel pump was replaced and now when new one in. Jazza, good suggestion, cubes keep us posted please.

also do you know if the boost is spiking over 10psi? also., why the hell are you revving it over 7000rpm?

Not to be disrespectful to you cubes, and i here what your saying, but if you have been working/fiddling with lines for 5yrs then how come this problem elludes you. You have tried just about everything to fix it but its still there. I thank you for your efforts in helping me with this problem and let me tell you if i/we could fix it then i'd do it tomorrow. Being an import how sure are we that nissan hasn't recalled these cars for this problem, and again the car was built for Japan, not Australia or Aussie conditions, so maybe the problem with heat soak didn't arise in Japan, but once in an AUS summer... Yes it happens on the street, but as the topic states, only on very hot days, on cooler days its fine, i don't thrash my car on the street. I've only owned my 'line for a yr so my knowledge is very limited, i welcome anyone who offers their help especially when i need it, so please don't take this post the wrong way. I also agree that age does have something to do with it, but still the part that is stuffing alot of us skylines owners up still sits there and laughs at us. I will try to fix/solve this problem, i doubt it will go away,atleast for summer anyway, and i urge anyone that finds the solution to post it up in big letters!!! as i will. Actually you know what i'm gonna do, i'm going to replace all vacuum hoses, have you done that cubes??? i will let you know how i go.

no oil won't corrode heater hoses.

could be R+r, do a search on rich and retard.