markimak

GEEZ WHITE LOOKS GOOD..

apprently the Neo25 is near the same as the RB26 head. I SAID NEAR. i say ur lookin at more than 300kw dnt use a GTR pump. and put more fuel into her. 9.5 on rears r fat. if u use a potenza, GRiD III or yoko.? some good brand tyre. i believe this will be a nice quick street car.

power steering flush... they can do them.. but bit fiddly. no need to really. my GTR is nearly on 95km. i would replace all oils, ALL filters, belts if they need em. any pumps if u need them. if ur doin Tbelt. ill replace all idlers bearings and the weak bitch of an oil pump. that and do a complete fault check. that and Check and adjust tappets if u can on the GTR havent looked at it yet.

now that i look at it in DETAIL. i guess u can get around pulling sump off too.. still a job i wouldnt wanna do. just run rear wheel drive for a while..

wow... unlucky mate. take this fool down. i hate ppl that i intrust my GTR to. that fang it around... (prob cold) ... hit him up for engine and compo. stressed induced compo

retuning ur standard computer hehe.. all u have to do is get a flat and its reseted. sucked in. if u want reset ur ECU and run what it gives u. or get the PFC. im gettin a dejetro in the not so distant future. easy to tune no AFM. its all good but runs off stock sensors. but u can always replace them oneday. KNOCK sensor saves engines!.. buy PFC

YAY another noisey R33. if u want noise get a SSQBOV or something. if u want some speed get a cooler kit and 3". im guessing ur not FMIC cause u still have stk exhast.

hehe this is gonna be expensive. from looking at mine. looks like ull be taking ur sump off. so good few hours in this. while u got sump off put a sump oil baffle in it will save ur GTR in the end.

yep. try my fix if u want. y not just wrap ur top AFM with alfoil to reflect the heat see how that goes.. 2 weeks and not a miss from here yet.

same with my GTR. only squeaks when u warm them up. i mean warm. a few 120-20kph sprints warms em up and they r louder than full throttle. clutch firction material is near the same as pad material right?

ive done that once. just finished working on the gtr. took it for a run 8000rpm shifted to 4th and bang. thought i blew something. still ran but shit as. blew my hose off. the one after the 'Y' piece. dnt sweat. prob nothing major. hope . post up what happened ok.

think this is a problem with alot of GTR's the amount of other GTR's that have done the same thing. hmm. mine hasnt acted up for over a week.. wat i did. remove top AFM clean afm with carby spray. took off the connecting. cut old one off made up new connectors. disassembled the afm cleaned connections. its only 4 screws. connected all up. Made heat shield for AFM plug with alfoil (looks dodgy, i did this to protect the heat shrink on the connector plug i made up.) ran its so far so good. noticed it aint as punchy as it was before. been meaning to reset ECU. i was reluctant to snip up my harness. but had a spare plug off another GTR and used it as a reference.

price on rear Diff and Gearbox.. is ther a diff cooler or transfer case cooler?

yeah i somehow originally posted in the wrong section put it in Forced and asked mods to delete this one. oh well. problem is fixed so far. hasnt screwed up yet. just sprayed carby cleaner into afm.

interesting. well im struggling to keep heat off my AFM's as they screw up when they r heated up. working so far. am gonna raise bonnet tomorrow. will post pics when i find a camera. cheers.

bleed ur attesa ETS system before u do anything else. sounds weird never heard of that.. deffently a prob with ur ETS. bleed it. change auto in trans case and just diagnose wat is broken. is urs a later model GTR? if so u got a different transfer case set up. u might not have oil in ur case?

Thanks.

so im told. AFM's r inacurate they measure how much air goes thru the intake of the turbos. wher as the Map sensors r in throttle and measure the boosted air which is more consistant. aint that right? ok correct some of us mislead ppl. why r afms so much better than a Map read system?

these wer cheap

be interested if its not too pricey. wanna see pics of one on a R32 GTR.

guarenteed drivability. ive heard they r a bitch to tune due to limited resources in australia. but once done its far more accurate than an AFM could be. the MAP sensor is direct manifold air pressure. not a vaccumed pressure like afm. i dnt get how it would be worst off than the PFC de jetro. maybe somethign i havent heard about? please share.

guess raising the rear of the bonnet might create a vaccum and suck air down.. it will work though. so do it. still dont think rain will dramatically cool the turbo down. its not gonna be a torrent anyway. if anything it would be droplets/mist

could be.? r they laggy? when ur in boost what colour comes out of ur exhast.. i had a gtst follow me and we wer boostin and i was told i got a heap of black smoke.. guess thats good. in the garage sometime just rev it past 5k and see what colour comes out.?

u can raise the back of the bonnet up a bit if u want. take off bonnet and put some washers on em to act like spacers and raise is 5-10mm doesnt look too different and dramatically realeses heat from the RB26 lol. i would put a shield around ur ABS actuators and a turbo bag. and shield ur exhast. rain wont really do anything to ur turbo or exhast.. when engines r washed down they spray water straight onto everything.. a little bit of rain will do nothing. my old GTiR has vents stock as well as that sexy bonnet scoop. and rain got in.. did nothing.

Z32s require different ECU.. since doin my plug and wrapping in alfoil (looks ugly) the problem occurs less often.. im just saving for the PFC de jetro. fix the problem for good $800 for RB26 AFM!!! thats very $$$... better off buying a Haltec or Dejetro. thanks for ur info fellas.