Tomek

Yeah like Rowdy said.. I've seen 350rwkw.. Probably the best turbos you can buy to make full use of your stock motor and afm's.

Hey Sean.. Awesome work on the car doing it yourself and on base to, know how you feel im an AJ up here in Townsville. Would I be safe in saying that my 93 GTR would have the longer drive to? In the same situation as you were a few weeks ago... Just waiting to remove the motor and crack the kinder suprise open Looking forward to future updates, if you don't mind me asking what sort of coin was required for your boring? (you can pm me if you like) Hypothetically if you had found that your pistons were det free and no score's on bore's, what route would you follow? Best of luck Tomek

Hey Mike.. This hadn't run through my mind!

Been searching for a few hours.. and haven't got the answer im looking for.. I've set aside this month to fit my turbos, dumps, ebc, injectors, fuel pump.. yada yada. When pulling of the flare nuts on the high pressure lines running along side head (circulating to turbo core) I ran into dramas. Even my pipe spanner was rounding the fu%%ers, so we decided on pulling the pirate out of the ship in order to make the arming of him easier (pull motor out to make job easier) It was an un-scheduled action, i had no idea I was going to pull the motor out. Now.. my question is.. Il be running Garrett 2860-7 turbos on the car.. I have all the supporting mods to bolt to it.. but the motor is a 15 year old virgin (93 32 GTR). I have decided that it would be worth-while to at-least fix up the 26's factory flaws.. Im not too keen on opening her up to full extent just yet, need to talk to mechanic.. I have talked to him but only briefly and he said it would be cheap as chips to send him the short motor and let him do a simple stock rebuild.. Atm im thinking... -N1 oil pump with crank collar (someone shed me some light, does the 93 32 come with an R33 crank which won't need the collar?) -Tomei sump baffle kit -Oil return from the rear cylinder head to the sump -Tomei restrictor in the feed -Drill out the oil return galleries in the head - sydkid -Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil - sydkid Im going to run these ideas through my mechanic and let him perform any sneaky tricks.. I want the motor to be reliable as it's used for a bit of track work and street duties.. Circa power of 420-450hp at the wheels. As far as head gasket, I have been schooled many a times that 18-19psi is fine for her.. Will have a look at pistons and check out how there going living in a rock .. i mean block for 15 years.. check bearings or just replace.. The problem is I don't want to blow my budget out of the water! Like I said I didn't know that I was going to be pulling the motor out and tomorrow when it's out id be stupid not to do some work to it. But where do I draw the fine line between budget and debt? I would really appreciate some informative replies from people in the know, 10 minutes of your time will save me a c$ap load in frustration or worst case a un-necessary failure .. don't want to be bombarded with "use the search" please or any bs advice.. Cheers Tomek

Item: Garret 2860-7 Age: puppies Condition: Very good Price: 2k Delivered To Fit: Direct RB26 bolt-on Location: Townsville QLD Contact: PM me or call 0431520274 Comments: I bought these turbos some 3 months ago. I havn't fitted these to my car yet, they have travelled less then 500km's by the old owner who purchased them brand new. Reason for selling is simple, My motor is coming out and getting a freshen up and rebuild so I want something bigger.. Will post pics tomorrow. Couple of member's pm'd me asking if id sell, so here is your chance, direct bolt-ons for your RB26dett in fault-less condition.

Thanks for that Mike, will let you know about the aircon.. DAY 2 So today we couldn't loosen a flare nut of one of the tubes, we used a pipe spanner correct size it would just round and destroy the nut. We stopped and weighted up out options, in the end we decided to remove the motor and freshen it up a bit... We have all the ancilleries removed atm. Tomorrow we will then drop out the front shafts, still not 100% if we will remove the drive shaft or use the play in it to aid removal of the motor. Ideas were brewing off a rebuilt motor, big single and ppg box but i quickly toned it down a bit before it got out of hand. The general plan atm is... N1 oil pump Sump baffles Oil gallery/ return mod (need to research this, i know sydney kid has a thread on this which will be helpful) Decided against replacing the head gasket at this present moment.. Few people have told me that the standard gasket will be good for 18-19psi. Don't won't to blow my budget out of the water since I picked these -7 turbo's for this very reason. Will be staying up late tonight to work out what the best route to go would be. If anyone has suggestion's please share.. Cheers Tomek

From what I saw there was 2 lines clamped on between the head and firewall ... May just need to have another good look at it and go from there..

Called it a night after 3-4 hours. . Car is on stands, front bar, bonnet removed. Dropped the coolant and oil. Pulled apart the piping to uncover the nightmare of confusion which layed beneath Managed to get down to the heat shield's, atm having trouble with what seems the high pressure lines which travel along the side of the motor diversing to the actuators which then keep going to the end of the motor.. I've removed all the bolts but having trouble getting the lines off which are situated in between the head and the fire wall.. Therefore making it hard to get to the shields. Will have another look tomorrow, hope im going about it the right way (top to bottom). On a good note, won't need to replace the front pipes, as the car is fitted with HKS "competition use only" front pipes.. lol

In-tank and yes stock afm's, Im chasing 300-320kw so stocker's will be just fine.. Haven't done the turbo's on a 26 before but if, or shall I say when I run into trouble I have a few mates I can call who have done it.. Tomek

Hey Sean.. Have been steadily emptying my wallet for the past few months, it will stay open for another month to come Yep, I have the PDF on file, will endeavour to get the relevant parts printed. Tomek

Hows it going fellas.. Beginning tomorrow, I will be performing a whole list of mods to my car.. The car is an 93 gun metal GTR.. 92,2## kms It is fitted with a -3.5 cat back -power fc (regular) -boost tap -what looks to be a jecs fpr -arc pipe with bov -excedy twin plate Im giving myself 1 month to get the car ready, prepped and tuned.. Have 1 mate who will be there with me each step of the way and a host of mechanic/ labor/ company friends. Within that month, I will be moving house x2, recovering from ankle re-con and training hard + work.. -2860-7 turbos, x force dumps (front pipes if the ones on it are stock) -cooler + piping clean, new joiners and clamps -044 fuel pump, 800cc injectors -jjr coil packs and new iridium plugs -AVCR -JJR cam gears, gates belt (will let the mech do, as warranty is provided) -100k service .. basically all fluids, water pump, bearings etc etc -new pads and braided lines -removal of air con and hicas + stripping more weight while keeping interior in tact -perhaps exhaust - +other things im yet to purchase.. catch can, oil cooler + relocater. Will do my best to update this thread with all relevant info, pics, trouble shooting and of course questions to pick your brains.. So far the small list of handy things to have is.. -Pens, note pads, permanent marker -Boxes and tape -spill kits and towels to drape over quarter panels -tire tubes Tomorrow arvo, il begin with prepping the car for the removal process on saturday.. -Throw the car on stands, -remove wheels, bonnet, front bar, NS head light -drain oil, water If anyone else has some more suggestions or any handy hints that will help/ remind me through the process please add.. oh btw.. lol. Im quitting smoking and won't be drinking through out the entire months ^^^ meh F**k it, il quit in a month Let the fun begin Tomek

I'l be waiting a good week before I order the packs, so I've decided to quit fart-assing around and bring the car off the road to begin the turbo/ fuel/ weight loss mods.. Looking forward to it.. Im "hoping" to get the car done and tuned in time for the last track day up here on October the 4th. Il be sure to start a thread. Cheers Tomek

What's the price at now?

Bought the T1r a while ago, was chasing a set for the rear 2 days prior to a track day.. couldn't find any, so opted for the proxes. With that said, I don't think it was a bad move... I found that that the stickier/ better T1rs on the front helped decrease the GTRs front heavy tendency to under-steer due to the proxe4's letting me get tip toey much easier in order to get the car back on track. If it makes any sense

+1

http://au.movies.ign.com/dor/objects/95925...d=18aza53ymsmjk mmmm... lol .. looks sh*t imo. Discuss.

+1

Talk to Taleb, he is a Business trader on here. I know that he has these but unsure if he has the size you are after.

Im running T1r on front with proxe4's on the rear.. The turn in is excellent with the T1r.. basically point and shoot.. in the wet it's extremely predictable. I've done track days, hill climbs and street driving on this set-up and can't fault it too much.. T1r is the top of the line street tire toyo offer, you can't compare it to the R888 which is a semi slick.. You won't be disappointed with the T1r thought.

Here's a R888 review...

Update.. Brought the gap down to 0.6 and lubed up the coil packs, also fitted a new loom. The problem was fixed, it pulled all the way to redline with out missing a beat.. Problem returned after 50 or so km's. Il be ordering a new set of jjr coil packs which should eliminate my problem.

Tomorrow il pull out the coils and check them over clean them up a bit and refit, if problem persists i will order some new packs either jjr or spit's I really didn't feel comfortable gaping below 0.8mm ... Il use that to tie you up

.. don't make me strangle you with my coat hanger!

well plan is to modify the packs .. if this doesn't fix it.. Il re-gap.. Why can't you just agree... it was unlikely you would of gave me the info if the wording wasn't spot on

Sunday I patched up the boost leak. Car was still missing but now building boost and staining the driveway on idle (incredibly rich) Talked to a mate and explaine the systems, and he found by freak of nature the likely cause.. Now for the people who are interested.. here is the read: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#63 So after quite a long dilemma of finding the suitable earthing wire i finally put an extra earth on it... Car is still missing slightly but it is pulling through the Rev range some what cleanly. Today I went to take my mech for a spin, after a quick 2nd gear blat, he told me to reduce the gap on sparkies.. So tomorrow I will be gapping down to 0.6mm () and tidying up the coils, which should result in a fix..