funkymonkey

wonder where the parts will end up? i'm sure there's a queue of buyer from around the world wanting scrap parts out of that car.

ok you got me there. i thought it was an AWD supra or something.

a 1992 R32 should have side intrusion bars in the doors already. It has to be complied by a RAW under the SEVS scheme. If its been in the country for over a year you might not be able to comply it. For it to be in the country already a RAW must have its paperwork, so your first job would be to transfer that paperwork from the RAW that imported it to the RAW that you choose to comply it. Unless as posted previously its a race import... in which case you can't road register it anyways. Best bet is to ring DOTARS and run the VIN number by them to see who holds the paperwork for it. If they say "that car was meant to be destroyed or re-exported a while back" well... heh good luck with that.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=CW2135 6" woofer?

your hood flipped and flew away? and it didn't break your windscreen or damage your roof? two things to do... count yourself lucky that it didn't damage the rest of your car. find the person that installed the hood and give them a swift kick in the nuts. by CF I'm assuming its a fibreglass hood with a single layer of CF on top (because a 100% CF hood isn't repairable). Its pretty easy to fix, just need to patch up the fibreglass, cut the clearcoat back and redo it. The CF will look distorted around the crack lines, but not noticeable unless you look hard. But probably cheaper to buy another one than repair. Ebay the cracked one and you might recoup some money.

i'll be contacting HyChill and getting a list of shops to do some ringing around today. I think if we ask them if we can bring in 5 cars to do at once we should be able to negotiate on a price for their service.

agreed, it looks like a colossal sack of shite. it'd make for an awesome ute though... they should've done that instead. would've been more practical too. this one's my personal fav though: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/10752

top right hand corner is a button called options. click that, then select "track this topic".

i think we can all agree that its standard procedure now to post F&F quotes in any thread concerned with rice and ricey ideas. *runs off to practice drifting in his Evo on the docks under the watchful eye of Tsuchia dressed up as a fisherman*

there are some manufacturers that make aftermarket kits in urethane (do a search on ebay with "worldwide" ticked). not quite OEM spec, but close enough.

hahahahaha sent my old man a MMS with "can I do this to your car?". Got an abusive call back... think he'll be weary of when I take an angle grinder anywhere near the ceffy now. no. Its wrong. say no to teh chop top ceffy.

vol 120 is the most up to date GTR one. came out a few months ago. Includes a tour of the Nismo Omori factory, comprehensive review of the HKS V Cam system, various suspension setups for GT-R's, the latest factory demo cars dubbed "ultimate weapons". Plus the usual roundup of new parts and products.

Hey Yudy, its hard to say which is the most comprehensive. basically as new products are released they are listed in newer issues. you'll find that one that's released about a year after the release of the R33 is primarily R33-centric, but the parts listed on it are a bit old school, wheras the newer ones have equal coverage of R32, R33 and R34, and the parts listed and prices are more current. the vol 100 and 109 i've got are sold to baboo (first come first served). if you want a copy you'll have to wait till the next group buy

also nearby is RE Customs in Springvale. they'll be able tell you if the cars had any accident history and do a mechanical check. www.recustoms.com.au for contact details/address.

like double clutching and not granny shifting?

depending on the chipset that your router uses, you can put various custom firmware on it. most routers are tiny computers which run a stripped down version of unix. basically if its something like a WRT etc you can put custom unix compiles on it. the unit from factory is good, but basically with a custom version of unix, you can put your own firewall, routing tables, ftp server, shell server etc. and customise the hell out of it. google Open-WRT and you'll find a tonne of sites with custom firmwares. For example there's a hack for the WRT that allows you to attach a storage device and share it on the network... without any PC's having to be connected or running. you can even wire up your router to run a tiny server that allows you turn your kettle/lights on thru the internet, again without having any PC's attached or on.

ohh lol I thought it was brendan from S.A

if its one of the ones I've got here atm, its $40 each plus $5 postage (I'm subsidising the postage by $2 I guess ). when I did the group buy it was $40 each plus $7 postage. so if you bought two it was $40 + $40 + $7. If there's enough interest I might do another one. But for now its just the ones I've got left over from the last group buy.

install a t-piece on your radiator hose. install a thin heat resistant tube into said t-piece. run this tube into a windscreen washer nozzle. drive up and down the road at really high revs till your engine's really really hot. activate nozzle. watch as your ghetto fake NOS inflicts damage to your car's paintjob and delivers amazing 3rd degree burns to your face. it'll cost you about $20 in supplies. good luck.

don't ever nitro purge near someone who's smoking its more wank than anything else as portrayed in the movie... betcha half the muppets that run the system after watching that movie don't even realise its to get the air out of the lines. Cos you know... running a nitro purge for more than a couple of seconds really is pointless. the air's out of the lines... now get the f**k on with it and stop wasting the shit. the other reason would be to relieve the pressure buildup from expanding nitrous stuck between the solenoid and the closed bottle after you use it on a run. if you don't relieve the lines the pressure can wreck your solenoids and connections in the long term. bet you don't see any cars in F&F venting after their runs.

no, that depends on the primer used, the paint used, curing time and so on. a properly prepped and painted fibreglass kit will hold paint as well as any eurathane bumper.

if you were to take a hammer to a fibreglass bumper it'll crack and so on. if you were to do the same to a polyeurathane bumper (factory plastic) they'll usually absorb the hit and retain their original shape. only under great stress will they crack or warp. They usually also weigh less, as the fibreglass bumpers are layers of dense resin and fibreglass matting. polyurethane is a relatively lighter material. some states also deem fibreglass body panels illegal on cars of a certain age (check with your road transport authority). that said, fibreglass is easier to work on and fix, and you have a much larger choice of styles to choose from. There are also some manufacturers who use a middle ground resin that isn't as dense and retains its elasticity, making the fibreglass bumpers a bit more flexible etc.

autometer's precision gauges are top notch, accurate etc after years of use. blitz and apexi ones I've found give accurate readings too. looked at the insides of one of those autobahn electrical gauges, and the stepper motors in them are rubbish. I wouldn't trust any readings they give. Buy em if you're only goin for the look. Wouldn't use them for anything precision critical.

WRT54G... the most hackable wireless router on the face of the earth. I've got one of them and a WAG54G2 (which is also quite customisable, the v3 sucks balls, but the v1 and v2 rock). Although if I was getting a new Wireless LAN and ADSL2+ modem I'd probably go for a Billion. Ash, have you checked to see if you can run 1.02.14-Pluto firmware on your v3 WAG?

i guess it all depends on what sorta vents you're looking at... bonnets with drop vents let water thru easily while the raised vents like the two above have some preventative bits.