funkymonkey

you don't have a warn status. it's empty. only you can see your own warns. and me. deal w/ it.

you could just drive normally, you know... like when you're not living your life a quarter mile at a time? diff before brakes. GTSt brakes aren't that shabby compared to 33 GTR brakes. GTSt diff is pox compared to 1.5. percentage improvement and smile factor is much higher on diff.

Doodle STFU. Any more posts in this thread from you will see you banned. PHT33, if you want to deal with this muppet PM him directly, I'd recommend against it personally. Thread split to wasteland for teh lulz: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/350106-the-doogle-files/ Shan Planet Earth

kaaz 1.5 do it and you can thank me later. shimming's good fun if you own a beat up 32, but if you want it to last, do it properly. Put it this way... ALL the power you make has to go through it. If you wanna wager that on a $1.50 shim go nuts. shimming just increases the bite point of your viscous, which means there's still slip, as time goes on it'll wear down and cark your diff. Guaranteed. Unless you're prepared to pull down and flush pumpkins after every track day or major fang session.

not many places will touch imports either. altho M3 isn't an import so you can get it from anyone, not just JCI. isn't there a website you can compare all the insurance shit on? chuck it in one of those.

yeah pretty much, shannons won't touch you unless you're safe. but if you are then they reward you for not gettin caught doin stupid shit

$630 for ze golf. $650 for the R32 when I had it. $430 for the 240z, but that's cos it's insured as a classic show/track only use car. All with shannons on a rating 1.

had a standard CA18DET in my AE86 and in the Sky80. Both ran fine with regular maintenance. Maybe it's the muppets you know who own the cars that can't take care of them? Hell the one that I put in the AE86 had over 200,000k's on it.

All new purchases need a RWC issued by a VASS (authorised workshops in VIC). Whether it has interstate reg or not shouldn't matter cos SA reg is useless the moment you take ownership in VIC.

but you happily own cars that have essentially the same engine as a CA18 with two extra cylinders? Keep in mind things like injectors/coilpacks etc all swap over between the two. cept SR's are alloy, where 3S's are cast iron and didn't have any sort of variable timing other than in the dying years or special BEAMS engines? oops, yeah that. FFS, look retard, why do you keep leaving out all the shit details that ruin a car? It's like sayin you hooked up with this chick that had mad headjob skills on a wild night out in your first post... Then 5 posts later we find out she was blind in both eyes, sported a gunt, had one boob, and was your mother.

wut? SR20 engines come with factory busted lifters. CA's are bulletproof in the hands of a tool, esp with no forced induction. Do it, CA18DE then weight loss the crap out of the car and give it good suspension. Look into changing the cams out of a CA20, $20 mod, makes it rev better. It'll be a great car to learn in. makes me wanna go out and get UJELLY for the 240z and UMIRIN for the golf.

UMAD is probably some arab dude's real name. Not the meme.

and 2 doors less.

my mate in sunshine's gettin rid of an N/A integra if you want. He's buying an R32 cos he just got off his p's, he'd probably straight swap yours but he wants a manual coupe.

I cbf atm, I'll add it when I get bored.

batteries AND chargers are being updated. From memory I was reading on the Sanyo website that the new ones have better charge holding capabilities and number of charges. Output etc isn't affected, they still perform the same.

Then why did you post asking about it? Quit being a cock juggling thundercunt. Also, not thanks, I'll make more doin my job in the same time it takes to do your engine swap than your car and new engine is worth. But I don't want you leaving empty handed, so here, I'll give you a new warn for being wacist.

legal. not easy. no. hell, besides the engine you need a completely different crossmember, gearbox, driveshaft, wiring, ecu, diff, power steering, alternator, waterpump, fuel pump, oil pump, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc. which part of going from a 1980's cast iron block engine to a 1990's alloy engine did you think was gonna be easy? can be done, but given your ghetto budget it's gonna cost you too much compared to the cost of the car.

should change Ban? to Problem?

omfg... i'm dying over here. rofl!

1. do you have a job? 2. if no, do not pass go, do not collect $200, do not purchase mods for your car.

my local's completely out of stock. apparently they're clearing out for a new version of the Eneloops coming out.

same same, even down to ride height, altho FJ40 is 11ty times more fun to drive.