funkymonkey

that was to show that you could buy it for 350 in the shops, but kinda pointless so removed it. If you miss out on a $345 one don't stress, you can pay $5 extra and get one easily.

could, deal's over now. altho it looks like logitech is havin mad sales all over the shop, you can pick one up for $350 easy at Harvey Norman or Dick Smith with some bargaining.

that's just random, my username's the same as on here

I'm spewin I missed out on Dick Smith & Paypal's 15% cashback deal last week. You could buy the G27 at DSE online for $350, but then you got 15% back from paypal if you pay using them. Which made the G27 $297.59

7. i just bought one

IS350 = V35 350GT Sedan. Just sayin. Wouldn't wanna own either. That said, mate in QLD just finished putting a 2JZ (the VVTi single turbo version) into an IS250, still has to get it engineered n shit. Should be fun, might take it for a drive when I'm up there later this month. Watch this space.

Holy farkin shitballs $7.40? Is that even minimum wage?

wow I knew you were full homo, but you actually cuddle while you're inside dudes? you also need his front guards, indicators, and bumper support genius.

At least smash the orange reflector out. and chuck some of these indicators in:

yeah, I like how those foggies fit into the vent tho, maybe pull the frosted plastic off and replace with clear perspex and a bright white/yellow LED array behind it? Would look tits. Would also set it apart from a sedan front?

Suck on deez nuts. Your 90's car is gettin old foo. just sayin, a good mesh insert with a nice round projector foglight would look way nicer. Especially cos the headlights on his S2 R33 is nice and clear with very little diffusion, then you got these frosty white n orange foglights which are diffused like a motherbitch, goin "BLAM! how you like this blast from the past?" it's all about sticking to a theme. all diffused 80's style = cool, all clear late 90's style = cool, half and half = slummin

bust em apart and get rid of the orange reflector and chuck in some chromed indicator bulbs at least. that orange kinda fucks with the all clear front.

wow, square lights. way to clutch onto that 90's umbilical cord. Are those the ones from a series 1.5? looks like the morning after results of eating a shload of corn cobs. Deja vu?

yo dawg, i herd you like high alcohol content. so I got you some methanol. 100% nyukkuh. But yeah, arrak isn't strong, it's just shithouse homebrew crap that's badly distilled, hence making you feel like you participated in some two guys one cup action. Hell even properly mass manufactured arrak that we get from Sri Lanka (one of the benefits of a cultural history of being an arab trading port in the indian ocean) tastes like ass cos of the raw material content, not the alcohol percentage.

Euro Car Owner = Apple Owner Jap Car Owner = Android Owner Holden Owner = Nokia 6110 Owner

From experience working on my mate's M5, Citroen C4, etc, diagnosing a Euro is piss easy as the new generation ones have a fully computerised CANBUS system that tells you everything on a laptop. Maintenance on them is also quite easy. That said, a couple of years ago I'd have worked on my own cars, but now my spare time is worth more to me so I'd rather pay someone to do it for me, Euro or Jap, even though I have all the tools and knowhow to do it all myself. The fact that people don't work on them you'll find boils down to what they can afford and what they prefer to spend their time doing, and nothing to do with what car they own.

I have one of these sitting in my garage. My ceffy. RB20DET, regular services, not boosted, pretty much as it rolls out of the factory other than a pod. Still runs fine and smooth. Coilpacks degraded, changed them out, and now runs butter smooth again. I've also owned an AE86 with a 4AC that had 420,000km on it, and it ran fine (although, that's a carby engine from the 80's) up until I put 6PSI of boost through it and took it to a track day to flog it. Once that blew, I bought another engine for $50 and swapped it in during the lunch break at the event, that engine had 360,000k's on it... and lasted half a day with similar forced induction carby setup.

With userbars, if say someone is a member of "Group A" as their primary, and also has "Group A" in their secondary usergroups, the userbar shows up twice Technically people shouldn't have this setup, but it seems a few users do.

negative. For example, take base model poverty shit like Toyota Corollas vs VW Golfs or Citroen C4s. The difference in quality is quite staggering. Spec wise they're similar, but it's the way it all fits together, the lack of creaks, the fact that they don't feel plasticy (even though they are, simply because they use a thicker material) the way the engine idles, the lack of in cabin noise and vibrations, etc. Then there's the cool shit that's a result of forward planning... like if you walk out of range of the transponder the windows can be wound up and doors automatically locked. This is something that's controlled by the ECU and every dealer can flash the ECU for you with pre-programmed functions on a single bus electrical system. Good luck getting that done on any japanese car with its 11ty billion wires, gameboy spec ECU etc. Euros are more exxy, but that's because of tarded australian dealers. Compare a Scirocco R vs Honda Civic Type R, same price, both imports, same purpose and target market. The Scirocco is leagues ahead of the Civic.

and it's an evo 8. better off getting an evo 7 RS or getting a locally delivered evo 9. why waste money on the middle child? only evo 8 worth getting is an Evo 8 MR, anything less is just a waste of money.

nah, NC or GTFO. They cost about 25k atm, in a year I should be able to pick one up for about 20k. 10k for conversion = 30k deathtrap.

except that's using the sack of shit toyota V8, not an all alloy LS engine, and it's in a chassis that's old. The NC chassis is balls out fun, and handles great in N/A form, so if I can put an LS engine into an NC chassis, it'd be perfect for my needs. Then I could just supercharge it for shits n giggles The LS conversion kits for the older MX5's they do in the US even preserves the weight balance by moving the engine further back than standard. Bullets are front heavy and handle like ass, been in one for a drive, the owner kept understeering and then snap oversteering to correct.

yeah woulda taken 13.5, esp interstate buyer cos there'd be no post purchase hassles either. in other news, keeping an eye out for a LSx v8 conversion kit to finish development for the NC MX5. Hopefully in a year or two. Once it is, goodbye Golf... hello LS1 powered MX5. Currently there's only kits for older MX5's, and the whole kit including engine only adds a smidgen under 100kg to the car mmm RWD v8 gokart deathtrap.