funkymonkey

I reckon if you were to find a retired engine machinist who can mentor you, you’d be able to fill in the gaps with your own skills. maybe have some conversations with the guys who are running the shops now about who they did their apprenticeships with?

What’s the difference? I ran an r32 carpet from Knox carpets in my old GTS4 - fitted fine. Mind you the GTS4 and GTR do share floorpans.

It's just fibreglass and resin, and the resin will either be unsaturated polyester resin or vinyl ester resin. The latter is more expensive, so less common on kits that are meant to be disposable. Your best bet is to test a patch under the front bumper where no one can see, to check the bonding properties of another resin you'll be using. You can't use plastic weld on it. Is yours an original URAS kit or a copy made in China or in Australia? Manufacturers will use different materials to ensure quality of product or to reduce costs.

This you? As I mentioned in the thread, I'd be checking if it was a faulty exhaust temp sensor forcing the car to go into limp mode while you're driving.

All the feels.

Holy sheet. https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/exterior/lights-and-indicators/indicators/genuine-r32-gtst-drivers-side-indicator/ $200 for a broken one! pretty sure I’ve got a couple of sets in my garage. Better wrap them in bubble wrap instead of being tossed into a box of random stuff.

Welcome Stefan! I've got family in Kempten... not far Munchen. Very beautiful part of the world.

Series 1 R32's had clear indicators. Series 2 had amber indicators. Keep in mind R32 GTRs were designed and released almost a year after the S1 was released, and they came out with amber indicators as they were moulded from a single piece of plastic (to save weight - because racecar). The original plan was to have clear indicators with a tiny bubble in amber for road regulation compliance. Once the GTR look became popular, they made the clear bit amber too in the S2 - albeit still made from 2 pieces of plastic. A very very common mod was to change the S1 indicators to update the look. Also didn't help that S1 indicators very frequently cracked around the bulb fitting and you ended up with condensation inside. The designers went back to the original intent of all clear headlights in the R33.

haha just watched the video and noticed @Beer Baron's old car!

I used to have an OS Giken Triple plate in my 32. It snapped my clutch pivot ball and I replaced it with an Nismo strengthened one ($50). Was ok to drive on the street. Annoying as hell to drive in rush hour traffic. The noise from the clutch when not engaged doesn’t make for a quiet street car. But…as long as you say “because race car” it’s ok.

Small update… car has landed in Melbourne port! Should be in the driveway next week. unfortunately I’ve found a slightly nicer GTS4 in Japan with less km and newer by a year, so might actually sell this one. Will make a call once I see it in person.

Ohhh yeah was gonna say mine is snapped too. I kinda assumed I’d just get this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/prestige-610mm-matt-black-continuous-hinge_p0294090 and cut it to suit

Found the lid in a dusty box at the back of one of the shelves. The lid might need a retrim at some point as it’s been nicked in a couple of spots. Is the curved bit the one you wanted?

I’m on a Royal Kludge RK84 mechanical keyboard in my work from home setup. Connected by Bluetooth to the MacBook Pro, the Samsung M8 and the Hackintosh. Got the all black double shot PBT keys that led the backlit LEDs shine thru. I’ve added extra deadening to the inside and running Cherry browns that have been lubed and got 1.5mm rubber o-ring dampeners.

Have you tried double calipers? https://au.gktech.com/products/2-pot-nissan-dual-caliper-brackets-pair

we've bought a couple of ex-demo's that were fully loaded with all the options (including mats). We tend to buy after the 2 year mark to exploit the first bump of depreciation in value, but still be able to novate it for 5 years. I've found that's the best bang for buck. It also coincides with factory warranty. You can purchase extended aftermarket warranty too, to cover you after the usual factory 5 year lapses. as for what's most important... for us it's always been making sure we minimise the loss on a depreciating asset, we look at everything we do with a new car through that lens. I've got a couple of cars now that are appreciating assets, so they're the ones we mothball or mod for fun.

fibreglass version, it's made to fit the smaller fenders and narrow body bumper support. https://item.rakuten.co.jp/partslandts/00100-001/ This guy took out the reinforcement bar to do a test fit of the GTR bumper on his S2 GTS25t: here's the resulting gap So even S1 to S2 is different.

Yeah the oxidation is usually a result of a car driving through and sitting in salted roads. Which is common in Japanese high country. Super high chance if the chlorine oxide has formed that the iron/steel parts are rotted too. Get a thorough underbody check done and look out for tell tale cover up spray paint too.

it's not technically rust, but it will deteriorate the shield over time. the chloride pits the metal over time. if it gets too manky you can just replace it. you can't paint it cos it gets too hot.

Are you going to use the Turbo Lamik TCU? That’s what I’ve been eyeing off.

Noice. I've got the 8HP70 in my SQ5 and I thoroughly love it. The programmability of the gearbox has me wanting to do the 8HP75 conversion one day. Been following the stuff 8Speed AU have been doing, including the e-clutch. So cool! Would definitely go an 8HP over a sequential if I get to the point where the power needs it.

Waiting for car. In the meantime going thru all my old shit. This weekend’s find in a box in the back corner of the garage… R32 sales brochures and the brochure for my old R32 GTS V Selection 2 brochure for R34 GTRs and sedans plus optional parts list for 34’s and the M Spec that I’ve always wanted to get brochure for a 260RS from another lifetime and my old man’s Ceffy original sales brochure for the AE86 Sprinter that I bought for $600 back in the day.

Subscribing to this thread cos I’m keen to do a 8HP75 conversion at some point in an R32. Got the 8HP70 in my SQ5 and love it in standard form.

Maaaate! You still got the beast! Glad one of us is still going strong!

Current snowball/fap list looks like this: Phase 1 Replace sound deadening with new deadening and underlay Plush dark grey carpet Whiteline rollbars and bushes Speeduino ECU Replace tacho with single RPM tach + 2 digital MFDs (porsche style) + custom 3d printed cluster cover + delete speedo cable 3d printed centre console cover + 13.3" android touch screen leather retrim of dash and centre console R34 M Spec GTR front seats + reupholstered R32 GTR seats Phase 2 Widebody kit S14 rear subframe wider wheels GK tech links etc. electric power steering conversion Phase 3a 8HP75 gearbox + shifter delete Phase 3b bigger engine - either RB25DET Neo from Stagea or fresh build RB30 GT35 MHEV e-turbo to chase the 1 lambda aircon upgrade Fuel upgrades etc to support bigger better engine Phase 4 Full hybrid EV motors (alternator replacement + torque convertor replacement) + 400W 17kWh battery pack from Jeep Wrangler 4Xe I've structured the mods with optionality so it's staged from mildly time and money sink to full retard, with increasing sunk cost and ability to sell the car without the upgraded parts for a better car (probably a newer GTS4 or a GTR). I'll probably never get to phase 4, that's the moon shot. The good thing is that I'll never upgrade to an R33 or R34, so chances are even if I change the underlying car I'll be able to move the parts over.