funkymonkey

you better buy those spike hub centres too, they're sweet.

well with SLR's the lowlight really comes down to the sensor being able to take clear pics at 1600 or 3200 ISO, and using a low aperture (high speed) lens. The latter can be added later, and the former is something most cameras on the market these days can achieve (at least ISO 1600 clarity anyways). I'd recommend a EOS 500D over a Nikon D5000 for you because the Nikon only allows 5 minute videos in HD (720p ie DVD quality), whereas the canon allows 12 minute clips in Full HD (1080p ie blueray quality) and 18 minutes in HD (720p). It also has slightly better sensitivity at ISO 1600 and ISO 3200, which means less noise in low light. If you want an australian version (ie don't wanna deal with warranties that are return to base or not valid in oz) then the cheapest twin lens kit is here: http://camerapro.net.au/canon-500d-twin-18...tock-p-243.html smidgen over your budget.

FFS. forgot to count tyres.

you listen to music in a car while it's off? wtf. don't you get out and go wherever you're going? I'm sure you have a soundproofed room in your house to enjoy your tunes in rather than in the car?

Don't buy a DSLR to record HD videos. Buy an HD Video camera to take HD Videos. Canons in general are cheaper in Australia and their lenses are more prolific here. You'll find yourself importing a lot of gear from the US/Japan/HK if you buy Nikon (I use a Nikon D90). If you're future proofing your Nikon, get something with FX (or "full-frame" in Canon terms) capabilities, that way the lenses you buy can be used with better bodies in the future... as cameras get cheaper expect FX to become the standard in a couple of years, if not sooner. Another defining factor with DSLR's is the autofocus motor. On some cameras the motor is in the body, which makes lenses cheaper to buy, but the initial investment is higher, also you're not locked into as many proprietary lenses. Cheaper cameras have motors in the lens, which makes all subsequent lens purchase expensive. Then you have features like articulating lenses, extra control wheels (1 or 2 wheels to fine tune settings etc), subject tracking, intervalometers, etc which all make it harder to pick. If you're getting really pro, make sure the camera can control off camera strobes (D5000 can't). Basically write down all the stuff you wanna do with it, how much you want to spend, and when you plan to upgrade and it should help you narrow the options.

car cost: $5600 suspension (coilovers, camber plates for rear, camber arms for front): $3200 wheels (meister S1's, anodized outer lips, powdercoated centers, new bolts, labour to take apart, put back together, balance): smidgen over $3000 fuck. i overshot the mark a long time ago. then add: OEM bodykit and front splitter paint leather reconditioning burberry print headlining OEM xenon headlights Hella led tail lights FFFUUU! also, jizzy, bright fucking qualified audio engineer you are putting a $2000+ precision audio system in a car that's subject to road traffic noise, tyre noise, vibrations, interior rattles, engine noise, electrical feedback and poor staging. I bet you also try to find virgins in a whorehouse.

I'm too used to importing my cars worked off their head already, so I don't have to spend any money on it. Fuck this stock to fully modded transition shit. Ah well, at least I'm single again so I don't have too much to spend money on

umm that suits a figaro cos it's supposed to remind you of an old Ford Popular, which is a retro car. Cube needs something edgier (no pun intended) ah well if you've bought it then you must love it. I'd be powdercoating em black/gunmetal instead of chrome as they look like mustang wheels.

as of my next purchase i'll have spent more on aftermarket parts on my car than the cost of the car. FFFUUU

dood. Any Honda Shitvic or Toyota MR-S wheel will fit your car. Otherwise, half the reason Cube drivers in Japan run Euro wheels is that Mini's (what japanese guys consider competition to the cube), old VW's etc all ran 4x100 fitment (and they've got pretty low offsets). also: http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d107865453 http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k130134889 http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k129027611 http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m77599089 but... saving the best for last... http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b111034617 game over.

cos toyota HK gets em made in china using OEM moulds. Just like VW. I can get OEM eurathane bumpers etc shipped out of china at cheaper prices than I can buy shitty fibreglass copies in oz. and cos they're made using OEM machining, they're accurate as fuck and line up first shot. It's what SSV do, they import all this shit out of taiwan/china and sell em as OEM replacements... sometimes even to australian dealers.

lol everybody who saw that cookbook wants it! it's fuckin awesome, the recipies are even better... like "Supafry Chicken", "Simple Ass Mozerella Salad" and "Your ribs is too short to box with god". Lotsa chicken recipies too. I'm gonna have to try some of this shit.

had a couple of books left for me on my desk when I walked in today Quite possibly THE most hilarious cookbook ever written... Chuck Norris fact books... I've got the first one at home so the girls in marketing figured I'd want the rest of the set.

Yeah it was just an idea, I don't like the fake look of it...

wow, so it's bog standard? yeesh... the thought of just cuttin your losses and buying a standard car that worked didn't cross your mind?

Then get em to intercept the signal and change it to something the ECU accepts as normal and carry on doing what it does. Also, no one I know of has had their R34's ECU checked to make sure its standard. OBDII scanner won't work cos its an R34, and a CONSULT scanner won't work cos it's an OBD port on an R34. harden the fuck up and put in an aftermarket ECU. If its as modified as I think it is, then that's gonna be the last of your worries if someone is goin over your car.

are you trying to use a factory ECU? just use one that can be programmed to ignore the tacho anti tampering.

correct. however the car you drive won't affect your predisposition to being a douche.

why'd you send it to SA when knox automatics can do it in VIC? also exactly what are they havin issues with?

it's not usually. just change harness and ECU over. if you're going aftermarket upgrade fuel pump and reg.

no pics till they're fitted an on the car, so at least a couple of months

w00t. work meister S1 outer barrels gettin anodised blue tomorrow still trying to figure out if I wanna polish the centres or get them water transferred with fake carbon pattern or have it powdercoated matte black. headlights and tails are goin black, so it'll be blue with black details. probably should just powdercoat the centres black n call it a day. I can anodise the nuts black too that way. Shit's gonna blow these golf kids minds with awesomeness. fitment... pokes out of guard by 5mm and tucks with stretched tyres. distance from fender to rim... 4mm and now I've got no spare monies. come onnnnn tax return.

I think it's a rule that car shirts shouldn't have cars on em. Logos, abstract art, symbols etc are all good, but the moment you put a car on it, you can't wear it while driving the same car. like: would rock without the silvia.

yeah but you don't even try... it's kind of a given that if you have a freshly painted part it's gon done get hit.

yeah, that shit always gets you arrested or put on some watchlist