3intheBack

All sweet now. Found some at GSL Rallysport - Brakes Direct

Oops, posted in the wrong forum Admins, Feel free to move it to the V series skyline discussion if you can

Important to note: V36. 2006 model. Not a V35. I'm down to the last 1.6mm of pad life and no one can find me a set. Tried bendix TRW ferodo BPA and a few others with no success. Any one on here know where to get a set.

Is there enough V36's around now to warrant a section on its own?

Blurry photo of the HKS unit from the iphone. I have one in the Stagea as well as the V35. Not really Plug and Play as I had to find the ECU pinouts and solder in a couple of connections. They come with instructions and anyone deft with a soldering iron can do it

Yep, I got an ORC as well. The dicky throw out bearing doesnt help with the idling noises, but it certainly chatters and grinds away up to 2000rpm. What I dont get is how it completely dissapears almost instantly at 2000, not matter what gear you are in. Couple of ways to fix it, dont go below 2000rpm, or above 4th gear around town, or keep the windows and stereo volume up. Only real issue is - it doesnt seem to have much torque at idle so you need a few revs or it tends to want to stall on take off. (But then I havent had it any other way, so maybe this is standard with the V35)

Interesting...it also does it when i pull into the garage. I go up a slight incline in 2nd gear at idle, as I near the top of the drive the engine is labouring at 800rpm, I put my foot on the clutch to coast the last 3m into the garage and the engine will rev to 15-1700rpm momentarily. The whole time i am not using any accelerator.

Done this and it is not your cruise control playing up. The original problem is still there.

Speed limit defender - I believe is the correct terminology. It removes the factory imposed speed limit of 180 kph. Different brands may use different methods: one type may send the speed sensor into a loop at (say) 175 kph so the ECU thinks the car is still doing 175, when in reality it is still accelerating. Another type shapes the speed (just like your broadband connection) when it nears the limit it starts to slow (shape) the speed sensor readings down, so for every 10 kph of real speed the ECU sees only 1 kph, so the ECU never gets to 180KPH, so it doesnt start to control your speed. A completely useless and illegal device for the road, but needed for dyno runs.

Please post up the throttle body reset procedure - as, funnily enough, the above mentioned problems got worse after I tried to clean it. G35 - i figured it would be similar, so can someone post it up or do I have to do some real work and go looking for myself. Chris - that would be me on the phone...answer it. I figure you would know if I had a throttle controller already installed as you have spent more time under my dash then I have. Speed defender is the only thing I know of in there.

As the topics heading suggests: could somebody please post up a diagram of the ECU Pinouts. (my car is a 2003 VQ35) I've seen them for the RB's. Reason is, I need to test a number of sensors mainly relating to the Throttle. I have been having trouble with the engine being overly sensitive on partial throttle. I can't cruise at a steady 50-60kph, it is either accelerating (under the slightest of accelerator pressure) or if I ease off the pressure on the peddle it decelerates, either way I cant hold it steady. However, at higher engine speed - ie about 1 cm or more of peddle movement it runs quite smoothly. Also when I change gear, or if you simply stab the peddle, it holds the revs for a half second before returning to idle. I have already cleaned out the throttle body and afm. And it is not a misfire. If you have had a similar issue, please let me know your solution.

Car: '03 v35 4 door, with premium pack Insurance Coy: Oamps Premium: $600 Excess: $400 Value: CMV Me: 43yo Wife: 30yo Place: Qld

On the S2, at the back of the tappet cover is a polution control solenoid. It tickers away at idle and goes away as soon as you put some revs in. Mazda V6's used to have the same problem and the factory solution was to rubber mount the solenoid. Either way, the NEO is a solid motor, thrash it till blows!

I've been asking around but to no avail! I need the heater core which is up begind the A/C condensor unit inside the dash. To fit an S2. Not sure if the S1 is the same. Also, it would have to come from a car that hasn't been cooked. Overheating is the usual suspect for presurising it, causing it to split. Can anybody help me with one and put me out of my (wife's) misery? please.....please....please...........

pictures!!!!!

I would still like your heater core. pm or phone 0409829442 warren

Have you got the heater radiator? The one up behind the AC unit inside the dash. waz 0409829442

Have you got the heater radiator? The one up behind the AC unit inside the dash. waz 0409829442

Have you got the heater radiator? The one up behind the AC unit inside the dash. waz 0409829442

Howdy wagoneers, Me radiator on the S2 is suffering a bout of constipation since I accidentaly mixed green cordial with red cordial. Would anybody have one for sale? They are the same as R33 and R34's, but I would prefer one from an auto as it will have the cooler plumbing in the bottom tank. I would need to be able to get it to Gympie somehow. I can pick up from Brissy or Sunny Coast. cheers Wazzee

Unfortunately I will changing my name to 4 intheback in two weeks time. So it looks like little chance of me/us getting down that way.

It's been a long time since this thread was around and since there are so many newbies in the Stagea Section I thought it was about time to resurrect it so you can add to the list and reveal all about the mystery surrounding your sign in names. For an explanantion on what the thread is about, go the original post on page 1.

I have seen these in the flesh at Ernie's Skyline Imports in Brisbane. They are called 'COO' and they look as good as the photos. They are brand new and awaiting compliance. I think they would make an awesome runabout for the wife and kids without looking like a complete idiot driving a Smart Car.

All the electrical plugs use the same locking system. You need to push in the little clip on the side. Use a screwdriver are similar. It can be a prick of a job as you need two hands to unplug it and two hands to hold the door fab.

Try skyline imports - they're in Allgas St Slacks Creek