3intheBack

Aaahhh good ol Mobil 1. I remember my bike riding days in the mid 80's when we used Mobil 1 'cause a racer friend swore by it and it cost a little under $30 for 4L. But then good oil in those days was around $10-15. Then everyone else found out Mobil 1 was good, then the price went up to $40. Then $45. Stopped buying it then as a personal protest at the price. The rest is history and $30 looks cheap. Bob Romano has seen a 30Hp increase on the dyno in large (old) V8s just with an oil change from basic oil to Mobil 1. Brendon, The oil filter part no. is elsewhere on a thread. I believe RYCO is 145A. I recently used a Fleetguard SF 3434 filter. $9, available from any industrial filter shop - trucking good quality. Oil was Nulon 10W40 cheap for 6L - you'll need 5 min. cheers Wazza P.S Good idea to hose the subframe around the filter before pulling it off as I dont know of anyway you can avoid spilling some out of the filter when you undo it. P.P.S The crush washer you will need for the sump plug is only about 12-13mm in dia.

Went to a dyno shootout last weekend and both skylines maxed out at 150/153 HP. I believe it may have been the speed limiter kicking in. You could hear them making good power, then at little over half revs they would develop what sounded like a missfire. Q. I've only been upto 170 so I dont know exactly what it feels like - is it a missfire or does it electronically overide the accelerator like it does in a coach/truck? (170...b/c it was only an SS dunnydoor, so not much of a race, plus we were on our way to church) Anyhow, if anybody knows which wire to snip to disable the limiter then I would be glad to hear about it.

nothing has arrived in Qld yet. must'av got washed away in the last cyclone!

As i read once in a Peanuts comic strip..." Winning may not be everything, but losing isnt anything."

Let see now - 99 S2, yellow, 98,000 K's, leather trim and side skirts for $35K My 00 S2, yellow, velour trim, no side skirts, 56,000K's for $22K from Nizmo Imports How much value does leather trim add to a car? You do the maths!!

A bit like this one. http://carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/used-car/NI...nd/1272189.aspx Luv the two way boot. Dont know about the two tone dash though.

My S2 is RWD. Paid 22K w/ 56,000 klm. But I believe this was cheap, cheap, cheap.

sic... ...fully sic! would luv to see how fat the tyres are from behind.

It's in the the front/dump pipe. Visible from the top of the motor. Like most electrical stuff, they usually either work or they dont. I've never had to replace one, so others here may be able to shed more light. But basically, it simply unscrews and you whack in a new one. Prolly best if you spray the thread with WD40 or similar to loosen the rust. If possible borrow a friends as this could turn out to be an expensive and pointless exercise if the original is OK. Still, they're not that dear - under $100. Check that the voltage outputs on the replacement 0r borrowed one are the same as the original.

There are about 11 of us on here who have a wiring diagram but they're all at funky monkey's house.

Dont mention it...you'll soon learn that we're a helpful bunch around here. You'll receive advice that you just cant pay for. Waz P.S. Dont wash your engine, or you'll have more then stalling problems

Have to say that I agree with Duncan. My Cressida towed the Mini on a car trailer up and down the highway with no problems. And the axles were bent slighty. But I did find certain (towing) cars did make the trailer handle differently - this was due to the different static heights of the towball which seemed to change weight distribution between the front and rear axles.

Is there any reason you cant just crack open the connectors on any of the five pipes on the ABS. If you follow the pipes from the brake booster it seems that they all go through the ABS. When the ABS is in operation it simply overides the pressure you are exerting thru the pedal. The S2 has 5 pipes - 2 inlet and 3 outlets - Front left, front right and a single for the rear. I am sure I dont need to tell you to have a hose ready and wash off any brake fluid asap before it spoils your shiney engine bay.

Dear Hugh, I've no idea how to help you with your problem. But thanks for asking anyway... Waz

Terminal - you've got serious economy problems - I just hope there not terminal... SKA - 3k revs should be giving 120k of speed, yours sounds seriously low geared. Give us a wave when you pass thru Gympie. My last tank was 520 k's with 65L - 8k/l or 12.5l/100k This was 300k of highway at 110-120, rest was city driving and 10 mins showing a friend how the rev limiter works. All this with the equivalent weight of 5 adults. Not too shabby I thought. I was averaging 150k per quarter tank on the guage until I started caining it a bit.

FYI Ernie Parry runs Nizmo - skyline imports Mobile is 0433 076 278 [email protected] His new shop is in Allgas St, Slacks Creek His M35 was an ARX - looked a bit like a Commodore Adventura, only with a lot more class. Even a bit like that Volvo Xc70 (without the poxy front end) that is on another thread at the bottom of this page.

just wait till you've owned it for a few months... ...you'll still be lovin every minute of it and more. P.S. Hey, there my wheels!!

Alex, you display maturity beyond your years. A nice bit of un-emotional research.

Thanks AC - off to a good start - it answered some of my questions If adding to this list is it possible to distinguish between a generic name and a brand name. ie, you had SITC as Apexi, so is this just an apexi product only or do a number of different companies make SITC's

Just to add another suggestion: Check that the casing of the tyre isn't letting go. This may show up as a deformation in the shape of the tyre - like a lump/bulge in the wall or flat part of the tread. On a tyre on our caravan the deformation was hardly noticable at all except for the vague handling at speed. The amount of tread left (ie age of the tyre) has little to do with it. Hitting a gutter or rock on the road may be enough to damage something internally. If you're worried about getting had on a new set of tyres when the current tyres have plenty of life left, then keep the old set of tyres to use again later. If the new set fixes the problem then you know you can throw the old ones.

A useful glossary of terms and acronyms. This is a basic list I created for myself in an attempt to catch up on the lingo. A fuller, more comprehensive list can be found at: http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Glossary SLANG: Noob/Newb - new person, freshman to the scene, doesnt know much CBF'd - couldnt be bothered, to investigate the truth of a statment but will happily give you my own opinion as valid. OMG - oh my goodness!! said with numerous exclamations and hand to the open mouth AFIK - As far as I Know LOL - laugh out load ROFL - Roll on floor laughing IMHO - In my humble opinion Meh - whatever FTW = For The Win/World, i.e. basically proclaiming to be the best of whatever... CAR: AWKW - All wheel kilowatts AVCR - Apexi's Electronic Boost Controller AFM - Air Flow Meter CoG - Centre of Gravity Cat - Catalytic Converter CAI - Cold Air Intake DC - Davies Craig, manufacturer of aftermarket thermo fans. DFA - Digital Fuel Adjuster (AFM Voltage Bender) (Jaycar named unit similar to SAFC) EBC - Electronic Boost Controller (Generic name) FMIC - Front mount intercooler IEBC - Intellegent Electronic Boost Controller (Jaycar just added on I) (Jaycar specific name) ICE - In Car Entertainment LSD - Limited Slip Differential OEM - Original Equipment Manufaturer NVH/NVM - Noise Vibration Harshness/Movement - ie Road Noise PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation PCV Valve = a one way valve that allows the crankcase to breath into the plenum when not on boost. On boost the valve closes, otherwise the boost pressure would escape from the plenum and go into the crankcase. R&R - ECU Rich and Retard RWKW - Rear wheel kilowatts SITC - Super Ignition Timing Controller (Apexi specific product) SMIC - Side Mount Intercooler SAFC - Super Air Fuel Controller (AFM Voltage Bender) (Apexi specific product) SFHC - Superfine Hard Coat. Coating on the cars paint surface to give an 'always waxed' look TT - Turbo Timer or Twin Turbo when after an engine designator (ie RB26DETT) TPS - Throttle Position Sensor WOT - Wide open Throttle GENERAL: WTB - Wanted to buy EOI - Expressions of interest CONVERSION TABLE: 1KW = ?PS 1PS = ?KW 1KW = ?HP 1HP = ?KW

Quote SKA - I have to clean the back screen at least once ever three to four days otherwise it gets blocked by that unburnt fuel soot" Q was, what is the back screen? is it just the rear window? I thought at first it may have been something on the intake causing your fuel rich problems. I suppose I had in my mind what others have said about cleaning their AFM's. I just wanted to be up to speed with my servicing before it became a problem. After reading some of these threads it seems that most people have a squeak/rattle or misfire problem somewhere. Everytime I drive mine I listen out for things and have yet to fault anything. (except for the noise in my left ear saying "slow down you've got kids (3) in the back!") It runs flawlessly and I love it more each time I drive it.

Hey Ska, what's the radiator/back screen YOU'S (singular) have to clean every week??

Tried to contact HBF - Health Benefit Fund. They are WA based and wont cover any cars registered outside WA. If I wasn't living in God's own state I would think about moving.. Oh well, life wasn't meant to be easy - just sunny...every day.

QUOTE(Cruiseliner) and as long as they dont think its a sports/fast car then they most likely wont bother pinching it. You'd better keep that bonnet shut, or it'll be gone in a flash!!