3intheBack

Hi Wildy, I'm 3intheBack (Warren's) wife, and thought I'd reply since the Stag is "my" car (he has a company car). We have 3 children, 3 1/4, 2 yesterday and a 16 week old, and we are able to fit three large car seats side by side, a Bertini (i.e. massive) pram and a mound of shopping in the back. I love the fact that I can slide the pram out of the rear without too much lifting, and the self-closing rear door is great as you don't wake the kids with a loud thump when closing it. The kids like the car: Isabella (3) and Rohan (2) like to go "weeee, wooaah" when Daddy is driving around corners. Mummy doesn't drive like that...much. All in all it's a great family car, and I would recommend it any day.

Hey Wildy, Short answer - Yes it's enough room and yes it's a tight fit. Gotto get to work now, I'll have the 'cheese and kisses' post an extended reply later.

Couldnt find the old thread on SK's cold air intake deflector, so SKA you can move this if you think this is a related topic. With all the debate over the use of a panel vs pod, I was thinking wouldnt it be nice (or easier) to have a scoop on top, aka WRX style. Then I saw one in my Hyper Rev mag and I thought it looked the goods, although a little non-subtle. A mate is looking to install one of those teardrop shaped intakes on his R33. Then I noticed WAGON's CF bonnet with the extraction vents and intake scoop. I was wondering what others thought of these? Any ideas/info about how well they work etc.

A picture says 1000 words... ...what more can I say!!

I better not stay the odd one out. Put me down for one.

Hi all, i've got a a problem with me booster! I've got an R33 with the RB25DET. I'm half way through my list of mods and have struck a snag. The engine currently has a Garrett T70 turbo, turbo banana's, 4" exhaust, large IC, custom 3' pipework, modified intake plenum, pod, boost controller and a 42mm turbonetics waste gate(WG). Boost is set at a safe 11 psi (because i don't have a computer or injectors yet, i don't want a lean out). The problem: boost hits at 4000rpm, with Very strong surge of torque, and as the revs climb, torque builds very quickly and stronly. WHEN the WG opens, power seems to stop! lift the right foot, WG closes and power continues. I have come to 2 possiblities: 1: the WG is too big for the set-up at this stage of the build, and is bleeding off to much exhaust gas, or 2: the manifold's waste gate pipe position is in the wrong place, and is causing massive turbulance problems inside the manifold and upseting flow to the turbo. I got the manifold off ebay, (because i was to lazy to make one)and the WG pipe comes from the bottom of the collector. I was going to change it b4 i used it, but too much vengence from my wife hurried the conversion process!! Needless to say the pipe is still in its original possy. Has anybody got any other brilliant ideas to the cause of this frustation??

2.5 is stock. And stock unit will prolly have 'calsonic' stamped on it somewhere. Also the stock unit will have three rubber weights attached at various points along the length of the pipe to help eliminate vibrations. So if it is 3' with no harmonic balancers, then it def aftermarket, and will do lots for your power. Check the dump pipe leading up to the cat - is it a different size? If the same, the you're in luck and someones done the expensive work for you. If not the same - ie the front half upto the cat is 2.5 inch then getting this enlarged along with a 3' cat will do even more for your mid range grunt. P.S If the exhaust is stock it will be so quiet, at some stage since buying it, you will have tried to start it only to find the engine is alread running.

A FOAF told me that independant rear suspensions and towing heavy stuff (ie bigger then your 6X4) dont mix. He reckons you open yourself up to the possibility of some sort of oscillation (cant remember his terminology) that can get your rear end very light and then sideways. Better off with a solid rear axle for towing cars etc. But then come to think of it my Cressida was an IRS and I used to tow a car trailer with cars on all the time at 90-100 k's. So, is there any truth to this or can some bust the myth....gee I miss that show..

So, do you know where the switch is on the indicator stalk? Or is there a wiring fault or is there something missing in the circuit - eg the relay?

The dark headlight surround is definitely not standard.

Dude, check out the mags on the NZ guys mellow yellow Staj and you'll never look back!

That's the second mellow yellow Staj I've seen other then the one parked outside and it is making me feel warm and fuzzy and sick all at the same time. Those mags are 'floating my boat'. The rear spoiler almost 'baked my potatoes.' I prefer the shorter stock style. By the way, what's the warning sticker say? "Warning, do not attempt to drag this car or you will be humiliated!!

Stacks On! Goin for 6 requests! P.S. What are we lookin for??

Power Steering is definitely in the engine bay, close to the pump. Open the lid and have sniff. Better still, stick your finger in and have a taste. Maybe it feeds oil to the wheels so you can easily smoke 'em up!

Mmm, dont know what your referring to. Where is this compartment? In the boot? The only two in my boot are empty storage areas. Can you follow where the hoses lead to?

Shees man, I was showered and ready for bed. Hang on , I'll go outside and have a look...

The dipschtick is on the drivers side at the rear of the motor directly under the brake lines that run across the firewall. I always check with motor running - run the auto selector thru all positions (if checking when cold) then leave in Nuetral . Remember there are two sides to the dipstick - cold on one and hot on the other. Wipe stick and redip about ten times cause you cant read the thing. If you find it easy to read because the oil is a nice colour, then it is probably burnt and needs changing asap. Avoid the temptation to overfill for good measures as too much oil pressure is bad for the seals. That reminds me of a joke... ...this seal walks into a club...

Hello Techo I also have an S2 and like you probably got confused with the description on hose routing in this thread as you wont find any hose with stripes of any colour on them. If you see red on a hose, that is probably dried blood, spilt from trying to get those hoses off! The T piece that is shaped like an 'F' has (as far as I can blow) nothing in it, And a good squeeze of all the pipes did not reveal any lumps that may be hiding a restrictor. **Warning** "Danger Will Robinson!" When you swapped the hoses off the soleniod you will find that your turbo was free boosting (if that is the right term) and you were probably pushing 15 - 20 psi from 3500 rpm onwards ( as I found out on my first run). Don't do any experimentation until you get a boost gauge. Run the gauge from the blanked off nipple towards the rear of the plenum. I am not sure how the soleniods works as my test run with a boost gauge (before any mods) showed that I could only get 5 psi across the rev range. Maybe that black and white wiring mod in the other thread will work. To get the desired 10psi I plumbed in an aftermarket boost controller simply by pulling those two hoses off the solenoid and straight into the BC. Start with the tap turned right down and then increase 1 - 2 turns at a time. Better still, get the jaycar set up. it costs about the same as a BC and works better. P.S. Get a mate to watch the boost gauge when testing - it can become quite mesmerising watching that little needle when you should be watching for the next corner.

The even made a diesel!!

you cant be on the net in daylight hours and getting stuff done on the car at same time... ...oh look at that it's 12.30, lunch time, gotta go. It's good to be the boss!

Am I the only two wheel drive around here? Thanks SK and ALex - that's the kind of technical guff I need to know so I can play/practice with it from there. My BC is set to 10PSI and it seems to hold it like you said. ALthough the thread on the (AMS's ? ) blown turbo has got me worried as mine spikes to 11.5 when you stab it as opposed to feeding it on. Still, the stock, cheap and nasty hose clamps are still doing the job. Gotta love that 2500 torque curve - very driveable around town. How large is a large oil cooler. Mines still stock (10 rows?) and sits in front of the condensor and radiator. Do you think moving it to the right hand inner wheel guard (aka left hand side turbo set up) with a fan is a good idea? Do any versions come with a power/economy button like most other auto's? I also have no O/D facility. Only traction Control which is not ATESSA (no front axle) and wheel spin results in retarded performance until you back off to where the ECU is happy again. Fortunatley you can turn T/C off though.

I have read in other threads about the need to stall the auto to make a fast getaway. While I think i have the basic idea...jam on the brakes, open fun flipper then release on green. It hardly chirps the wheels, even on smooth cement. At 2000 it starts to creep on the brakes I did know a bloke who used to take his Mazda Mark 1 to 10k then pop it into D....alas poor torquey for I knew it well. But I aint about to do dat. So what's the technique?

man, those old rims were sick, you should have got some kinda violation ticket for driving in public on them. New ones are also sic...fully sic!