3intheBack

The rear camber arms - are they standard or have they got the adjustable bushes in ???

Ok. I'll be the first to ask the dummie question... ....what bleed valve are you referring to? The boost signal? If so it has been covered in the IEBC thread by SK.

Quick question to those in the know... This thread has cautioned against the use of spherical joints as they increase NVH and wear quickly - this was mentioned in respect to front castor/control arms. Does it apply to adjustable rear camber arms? Or should I just stick with the poly bushes? Post Note - Next day. I found the answer in "search" in the suspension thread. Think I'll go the poly bushes!

Hhmm, so why didnt they just make them 40mm wider?

Please explain in long hand. Brad, what you should be doing is sourcing a 'see through' bonnet for that motor. I got the same skirts - from Qikstagea. Probably for the same reason as you - wanted to fill in the middle of the car and give it a lower look without modifying the suspension. For the uninitiated these are Nismo style kits and the bottom of the skirts are level with the bottom of your existing mudflaps. Since I'm already up for a fibreglass job to repair the crash damage, I might see if i can raise them a bit.

A question relating to a problem that has been asked before on this thread but not answered. A while ago I puchased and installed the rear swaybar for my S2. (Found out that there was no oem swaybar in place to replace) Fitting was a breeze but had trouble getting the 'vertical' links to line up as they had to be spread outwards at least 20mm (at the point where it mounts to the suspension arm) on each side. I scoured the thread and noticed on SK pics of the old and new bars lined up that there is the same visible difference ( on the rear only, the pic of the front bars show a perfect match up). A couple of pages later someone asked about the problem but I think he was mis-understood as refering to the D brackets where it mounts to the chassis rails. My D brackets were tight but fitted - obviously due to the thicker material being used. SK posted a pic of his install and (while not obvious) you can see the vertical link bent outwards the same as mine. The instructions did mention that they should be as vertical as possible, so is this a problem or do I just carry on regardless? PS. FYI Here are the settings from a recent wheel align. Front Camber L was -0.75, now -1.25 R - 0.75 Castor L + 6 R +6 Toe was 0.5mm out, now 2mm in Rear Camber L -1.5 R -1.5 Couldnt adjust any more Toe was 3mm in , now 5mm in - set to compensate for neg camber and excessive wear on inside edge of tyres Height from Wheel centre to Wheel arch is 380mm all round. Sounds like time for a rear camber kit, but I would like to go the way of complete new arms with adjustable ends as (I've been told) they are easier to fit.

I've done it to my S2 - put in a very large 'Monster' FMIC. It slipped straight in (didnt even need the vaseline). Yeah, you have to cut a hole directly under the battery, but it misses all the vital bits. You will need to trim the front bumper where the in/out pipes connect to the IC. Plus (unfortunatley) the 'Neo' engine cover to accommodate the cross over pipe .

Well, we already own 33 of them - but the wife refuses to drive one!

Sounds like you're describing the average 4WD/MPV/Tarago etc.

The funny thing is - the story of my stagea purchase... I was looking at the Stagea at the beginning of the year - 2 years ago, when we found out that we where expecting number 3 for the back. The Cressida had to go. The Stagea from Nizmo, was the ultimate option but was over $30k at the time. Although S1's were cheaper, I wanted to go for the newer version. In particular I wanted the car owned by Ernie's wife, being for her, it was in immaculate condition. So we gave up on the idea and my Dad helped us to finance a Mazda MPV. We took delivery of the car one week before we took delivery of the new baby. Two weeks after we bought the MPV, Ernie rang up, needed $22k in a hurry and was happy to sell the S2 for that amount. I was spewin, there was no way we could afford another car and to sell the MPV after just buying it (and in a hurry) would be financial suicide. But then there was no way I was going to let Stagea go to some other home that may not appreciate it as much as I would. The only 'pro' for buying the Stagea was that I was already sick and tired of the MPV's mundane performance. So I did some shifty financial dealings, sold the Mini to my nephew, the Cressida to a 'lady of the night', the MPV to a church Pastor and tucked the Stagea into bed at my house. Needless to say Dad was miffed that we wasted his good money given for a sensible family car on a quickly depreciating flashy sports car. Since then a lot of water has passed under the bridge, Dad talks to me now and 4 months after I let him drive a 'turbo' car, he went and traded the Subaru Liberty on a Forester GTX. (Couldn't be out done by the son, now could we!) So now the Stagea's seating configuration stands in the way of my quest to have 5 kids. what to do? what to do? If I could import a turboed Honda Odysee then all my problems would be over. But for now the Stagea has to stay and so does the 4th child option, so an extra row of seats in the boot seems to be my only answer to this conumdrum.

It's not that I want to change my sign in to 4intheback, but the wife and I want to explore the feasibility of putting and extra row of seats in the boot like they do in chooktin station wagons. Having an extra kid is optional (atm), trading the stagea for an MPV is not! I know...I'm superficial... Does anyone know what the go is with these things or should I just get the tubes tied?

That's very sweet! I hope Rob doesnt mind me replying on his behalf...I didnt know the guy until I went round just to poke my nose under the tarp covering his beloved car. Back then - a couple of weeks ago, he was being very philosphical about the accident. But, as with any post truamatic experience, by now the reality will have set in, along with the nervous shivers that you get every time you think about what 'could' have happened. I'm sure the rest of his family are constantly reminding him of 'what if' and while they probably dont mean any harm, sometimes the off handed remark can cut deep into a bruised and bloodied conscience. It would be next to impossible for him to go outside and strip bits off the car without reliving the whole emotional experience. If he has ever gone outside to look at it again since I was down there, I would be surprised. I suppose there was some truth hidden in one of Rob's early post when he said that if any one wanted anything they would have to come around to get it. The grille has become an icon of survival. Anyhow, I'll shut up now and let Rob speak when he wants/needs to.

Hear Hear!

Cruiseliner - See above post - I already have the wind deflector/shield, sorry. Passenger door switch was still there - Ska bought the driver side

Try a pm to Qikstagea - I dont think his was broken in the crash.

The steering wheel is as high as it will go. We have long legs and can't fit comfortably with it any lower. A Japanese car made for Japanese people, I guess!

Meh, the novelty and comments soon wears very thin. One problem you will have is seeing the top half of the speedo and tacho dials. But my mum's Liberty was worse.

What's the go with covering your rear lights on the door and the yellow plastic where the chrome should be next the the rear number plate? Dont know if I'm a fan or not of the blacked in headlight surrounds - still it looks good on yours - I must be too old, from the era when too much chrome was not enough!

So, we have all had a talk about this but here goes again. I have in front of me two turbine housings. As the title says an R33 series 1, and an R34 neo. The R33 has been taken from Qikstagea's (Rob) - a 96' S1. And the R34 is mine - 2000 S2 Neo. Will post pics later. Hopefully one day I will CC the pair! Anyway here are the numbers off them: 2IU is the R33, written in two places. Beside the flange that bolts the turbine to the exhaust manifold (on the inside), and the other is on the outer side facing where the dump pipe bolts on. O96 is the R34. all stamped in the same place. They are markedly different to look at! the R34 is about 5mm WIDER across its back and most of the scroll follows this larger profile. THIS MAKES IT SOMEWHAT LARGER THAN THE R33! I have not CC'ed the housings yet, but any backyard rocket scientist could tell you they will perform differently! The R33 SHOULD encourage boost earlier in the rev range, where the R34 SHOULD build slightly larger power figures... So, anybody done a back to back test of this?? I have pics on the camera and will post later.. Any thoughts?

I know squat - having a RWD an all, but wouldnt something need to be wired up to sense wheel speed verses car speed?

This question was answered in this thread a long time ago...but not as clearly as munchdesign's answer http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=boot+size But is does have some nice pictures to go with your measurements

Get onto qikstagea - he has a box lying on the ground out the front of his house. The input shaft is 'shafted' and the bell housing is smashed, but the internals should be ok.

On behalf of Qikstagea I can confirm the rear lights are S1 - He did have a nice set of clear side indicators - but the left side got squished by the pole. Motor is completely stock. Surprisingly the FMIC is still intact I have bought the blow off valve, throttle body and weather deflectors.

Pm sent for your address

Shannons told me mods arent an issue unless you want to recoup the cost of them when its a write off. And mods are an issue if it can be proven that they caused the accident. For me $800 (I think) for 25K. Based on the wife who is 27. Otherwise it would have been $550... I was chuffed to say the least.