PuppaDuck

Just found a youtube vid of a guy opening up his non-Skyline thermo control amp to find bad solder joints. I'll definitely check this out while I'm there. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbGHIaHGBaE That'll be a nice easy thing to access/troubleshoot/fix! Especially since the temperature probe (thermistor) also attaches to it and may simply have bad solder joints.

I'm attaching a couple of snippets of info I found, which I think will be useful to others wanting to know more about their A/C overall and what can go wrong with it. Basically the thermistor I mentioned above, takes temperature readings (of the evaporator core) for the thermo control amp, which interacts with the ECU to cycle your A/C clutch on and off. If the evaporator core is too cold, then it backs off till it warms back up to a safe operating temperature range. So... if you're at the stage where all other easy-to-get-to components test ok, the problem may be with the thermo control amp or the thermistor. Testing the thermistor while your A/C is cycling will help eliminate the thermo control amp as an issue if you hotwire the thermistor, at the white connector clip, and the thermo control amp responds accordingly with the correct behaviour. The thermo control amp appears in my earlier parts diagram as part 27761N. This part is easier to get to and you will see it as soon as you get the glove box off. This guy Wulfgang explains the bigger picture a little better: (Ref: http://forums.nicoclub.com/keeping-the-ac-on-an-s14-t125307.html) ...and... (Ref: http://forums.nicoclub.com/some-air-conditioning-fix-thoughts-t93247.html) Finally, I found a solid forum link write-up showing the replacement of a thermal control amp on a Nissan Frontier. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/diy-guide-how-change-thermal-control-amp-1st-gen-frontier-72291/ The R33 will be different, but it gives you an idea of how the component is accessed and how it fits into the fins of the evaporator to take temperature measurements. I'm planning on having a go to see how close I can get to component removal and conduct further testing if possible, without degassing and removing completely. From there I can make a decision whether the whole thing needs to come out or not. Others with non-Skylines were able to keep the evaporator box open with a torch or block of wood while they wiggled the sensor off and on with chopsticks or a screwdriver. As I mentioned before, there's always the option of simply disconnecting the existing sensor and installing another one next to it. Hopefully a quick peek to see how it's put together will make for a better informed decision as to which way to go. I'll take a photo for you if I get through.

Stupid phone. That should have been part numbers 27675X or 27675XA. (The Thermister/Thermostat inside evaporator box.) Im attaching the related parts diagram for your reference.

Hi guys. A lot of you seem to be having the same problem as myself. That is, you have ruled out the basics being gas or issues raised in the climate controls diagnostics menu. The culprit could be the thermister. This is a temperature probe that monitors temperature of the internals of the a/c unit (the heater core) that is in the cabin behind the glove box. If the temperature is too cold, it tells the a/c clutch to disengage so it doesnt freeze up. One of the symptoms if this part isnt working correctly, is a random on/off activity regardless of the state of your cars movement, weather, temperature settings, etc. Nissan says they dont stock the part any more, (Nissan FAST part number is 27675X or 2765XA depending on your car) and with so many people having problems with their a/c, you wouldn't use a second hand one. It is possible to install a generic thermister (around $50) in a new hole next to it and reuse existing wiring. The original clip has 3 wires in it, one for power and the other 2 are for the readings. If you replace the original, you have to degas, open everything up, remove the 2 wires from inside the unit. If you instead add a new thermister next to the other, you just drill a tiny hole in the unit, and mount it inside the casing near the heater core. Then reuse existing wiring. As the case stays closed, no need to dismantle and degas/regas. Saves $200. Others may have more experience in this topic and feedback or corrections are welcomed, including prices and stockists.

I was just looking at mine the other day. A little worn now. The letters are just painted silver from what I can see. The plastic strip has raised letters on it. Just have to hand paint them with a small detailing brush I suppose. Not sure that I'd bother masking around each letter, but it'd be nice to make a template and spray across it in one go. If I do that, I'll try to attach the template on here for others to use. I'll see how I go by hand first.

Any luck with this ? Someone once returned my car with the boot out of wack after taking it off. It leaked big time. I decided to loosen all the bolts and give it a gentle bending, assuming they let the hinges bend while taking it off without someone to help keep it aligned. When I retightened the bolts, it seemed to sit much better when closed. I still might have another go getting it closer aligned one day, but for now, at least it's close enough to stop the leaking. Hope this helps.

Hey guys. I've noticed while a lot of people are changing hubs, cables, etc there's not a whole lot of discussion on what people are buying to replace the shoes once the pads wear low. There doesn't seem to be a parts listing with Bendix, so I thought I'd ask the community before I start the task of removing shoes and trying to match up similar looking parts that are available. In particular, I'm after replacement part details for an ECR33 GTS-T Skylines rear drum shoes. With all the handbrake jockeys out there these days, I thought this would have been a more popular request. I'm not yet looking forward to asking Nissan for a price.

G'day SAUers. I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask. I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads. Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front: - DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair - DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair - Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set - Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired. Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details. I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to. Thanks SAU.

Looking at the photo of the rear seats, the trim looks similar to mine. How much for the drivers seat rail ? or if you won't separate, how much for the whole seat ?

Can someone pin this thread in the comedy section ? LOL

Interested in: - drivers seat rail - both drivers side and passengers side window switch - seat belts - drivers side mirror - drivers side window front guide runner (or how much for the whole drivers side door ?) Will pay cash and pickup tomorrow. PM me a price for the bulk purchase. I may also be interested in the sunroof, but will need to figure out how to install it.

Looking for a black drivers side mirror, passengers side window control, drivers side central locking user control.

Interested.

T30 at $8 from Repco you say ? Thanks for that. Cha-ching !

T30 at $8 from Repco you say ? Thanks for that. Cha-ching !