PuppaDuck

Just found a youtube vid of a guy opening up his non-Skyline thermo control amp to find bad solder joints. I'll definitely check this out while I'm there. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbGHIaHGBaE That'll be a nice easy thing to access/troubleshoot/fix! Especially since the temperature probe (thermistor) also attaches to it and may simply have bad solder joints.

I'm attaching a couple of snippets of info I found, which I think will be useful to others wanting to know more about their A/C overall and what can go wrong with it. Basically the thermistor I mentioned above, takes temperature readings (of the evaporator core) for the thermo control amp, which interacts with the ECU to cycle your A/C clutch on and off. If the evaporator core is too cold, then it backs off till it warms back up to a safe operating temperature range. So... if you're at the stage where all other easy-to-get-to components test ok, the problem may be with the thermo control amp or the thermistor. Testing the thermistor while your A/C is cycling will help eliminate the thermo control amp as an issue if you hotwire the thermistor, at the white connector clip, and the thermo control amp responds accordingly with the correct behaviour. The thermo control amp appears in my earlier parts diagram as part 27761N. This part is easier to get to and you will see it as soon as you get the glove box off. This guy Wulfgang explains the bigger picture a little better: (Ref: http://forums.nicoclub.com/keeping-the-ac-on-an-s14-t125307.html) ...and... (Ref: http://forums.nicoclub.com/some-air-conditioning-fix-thoughts-t93247.html) Finally, I found a solid forum link write-up showing the replacement of a thermal control amp on a Nissan Frontier. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/diy-guide-how-change-thermal-control-amp-1st-gen-frontier-72291/ The R33 will be different, but it gives you an idea of how the component is accessed and how it fits into the fins of the evaporator to take temperature measurements. I'm planning on having a go to see how close I can get to component removal and conduct further testing if possible, without degassing and removing completely. From there I can make a decision whether the whole thing needs to come out or not. Others with non-Skylines were able to keep the evaporator box open with a torch or block of wood while they wiggled the sensor off and on with chopsticks or a screwdriver. As I mentioned before, there's always the option of simply disconnecting the existing sensor and installing another one next to it. Hopefully a quick peek to see how it's put together will make for a better informed decision as to which way to go. I'll take a photo for you if I get through.

Stupid phone. That should have been part numbers 27675X or 27675XA. (The Thermister/Thermostat inside evaporator box.) Im attaching the related parts diagram for your reference.

Hi guys. A lot of you seem to be having the same problem as myself. That is, you have ruled out the basics being gas or issues raised in the climate controls diagnostics menu. The culprit could be the thermister. This is a temperature probe that monitors temperature of the internals of the a/c unit (the heater core) that is in the cabin behind the glove box. If the temperature is too cold, it tells the a/c clutch to disengage so it doesnt freeze up. One of the symptoms if this part isnt working correctly, is a random on/off activity regardless of the state of your cars movement, weather, temperature settings, etc. Nissan says they dont stock the part any more, (Nissan FAST part number is 27675X or 2765XA depending on your car) and with so many people having problems with their a/c, you wouldn't use a second hand one. It is possible to install a generic thermister (around $50) in a new hole next to it and reuse existing wiring. The original clip has 3 wires in it, one for power and the other 2 are for the readings. If you replace the original, you have to degas, open everything up, remove the 2 wires from inside the unit. If you instead add a new thermister next to the other, you just drill a tiny hole in the unit, and mount it inside the casing near the heater core. Then reuse existing wiring. As the case stays closed, no need to dismantle and degas/regas. Saves $200. Others may have more experience in this topic and feedback or corrections are welcomed, including prices and stockists.

I was just looking at mine the other day. A little worn now. The letters are just painted silver from what I can see. The plastic strip has raised letters on it. Just have to hand paint them with a small detailing brush I suppose. Not sure that I'd bother masking around each letter, but it'd be nice to make a template and spray across it in one go. If I do that, I'll try to attach the template on here for others to use. I'll see how I go by hand first.

Any luck with this ? Someone once returned my car with the boot out of wack after taking it off. It leaked big time. I decided to loosen all the bolts and give it a gentle bending, assuming they let the hinges bend while taking it off without someone to help keep it aligned. When I retightened the bolts, it seemed to sit much better when closed. I still might have another go getting it closer aligned one day, but for now, at least it's close enough to stop the leaking. Hope this helps.

Hey guys. I've noticed while a lot of people are changing hubs, cables, etc there's not a whole lot of discussion on what people are buying to replace the shoes once the pads wear low. There doesn't seem to be a parts listing with Bendix, so I thought I'd ask the community before I start the task of removing shoes and trying to match up similar looking parts that are available. In particular, I'm after replacement part details for an ECR33 GTS-T Skylines rear drum shoes. With all the handbrake jockeys out there these days, I thought this would have been a more popular request. I'm not yet looking forward to asking Nissan for a price.

G'day SAUers. I haven't seen a relevant group buy in Sydney in a while, so thought I'd ask. I've had a bit of a read and it seems for spirited street use, on a budget, I'm looking at DBA 4000 slotted or cross-drilled rotors and Bendix General or Ultimate pads. Can someone PM me a place in Sydney that will supply any of the following new R33 GTST front: - DBA 4000 slotted rotors for less than $320 a pair - DBA 4000 cross-drilled rotors for less than $500 a pair - Benedix General pads for less than $70 a set - Benedix Ultimate pads for less than $100 a set I'm also looking for a new long-term trusted mechanic as mine has retired. Preferrably somewhere I can build a direct relationship with the person who works on the car, not a front desk who passes on work order details. I'm in the South Sydney area but I don't mind travelling around Sydney if I had to. Thanks SAU.

Looking at the photo of the rear seats, the trim looks similar to mine. How much for the drivers seat rail ? or if you won't separate, how much for the whole seat ?

Can someone pin this thread in the comedy section ? LOL

Interested in: - drivers seat rail - both drivers side and passengers side window switch - seat belts - drivers side mirror - drivers side window front guide runner (or how much for the whole drivers side door ?) Will pay cash and pickup tomorrow. PM me a price for the bulk purchase. I may also be interested in the sunroof, but will need to figure out how to install it.

Looking for a black drivers side mirror, passengers side window control, drivers side central locking user control.

Interested.

T30 at $8 from Repco you say ? Thanks for that. Cha-ching !

T30 at $8 from Repco you say ? Thanks for that. Cha-ching !

Thanks for the pic. I'm trying to get an understanding of what's behind there, between now and when I finally find something that will let me loosen those bolts. I've been hearing a noise consistent with loose metal like a big bolt for years. Then it sounded like it finally came loose altogether. Now I feel like something on a 2 bolt bracket is loose at one end. It seems to hit the horn cover and go back in its place. I thought I was looking for a loose bolt that needed tightening. At first it rattled around in there, which is why I took off the bottom cover - hoping something would drop out while I have it upside down during a turn. Instead, it must have found a place to wedge in and make my horn go off when upside down. Had to pull the fuse for the horn to stop all of the ugly women looking at me as I involuntarily beeped them at the lights. That area you speak of is probably also the pivot point to the horn cover, which sits firm at the top and moves in and out at the bottom. Perhaps a good punch at the top and the piece breaks off like you've mentioned. I've got the disabling of the airbag sorted. Basically pulling the fuse, unplugging whatever you can get to - then waiting for the capacitors to discharge over a safe 30 minutes, and not sitting in front of the wheel while you work on it. Have I left anything out ? Can't be any worse than copping a 2-inch piece of metal in the throat because your airbag goes off during use, just because it came loose from somewhere where we aren't able to get to to fix. Since it came loose, I haven't noticed any change in the feel of the horn cover. Damn torx rachet pattern. I'd have had it done by now.

I am looking for someone in Sydney who has the rachet piece that will fit the star pattern on the bolts that hold the airbag in. This is to address the noisy clanking in the airbag piece on the steering wheel - an issue I know is very popular on R33s with drivers airbags. Here's what I am thinking: - I have a general idea of what needs to be done, but can't buy the piece to get the bolts off. - If someone out there is willing to lend me that piece, or work with me on it, I would like to document and photograph the outcome to make a nice tutorial for others. - If I can't get any help on this, I was going to try knocking out the centre piece with a hammer and centre punch so that I can use a variety of other rachet heads to get this off. It'd be great to hear from someone who has done it before, but it would be nice to just hear from someone with input. Thanks guys.

Rocco's Performance have also been a great resource for maintenance, upgrades, etc. http://www.roccosperformance.com.au/

Sideways works well too. I just wish the guys who painted my car put those rubber seals back in between my boot spoiler and the bootlid, because it vibrates. Anyone got any for sale ?

Wish it was that easy for me. Trying to replace my factory keyless entry remote, or at least the button component in the remote. Bought a remocon learning remote, but couldn't get the original to work to even attempt to copy it. Even then I'm not sure if the factory keyless entry is code-hopping or a static frequency. There is a frequency number in the remote, so I was hoping someone could tune me a new one at that frequency and I'd be on my way. Getting a dead battery every weekend now because the upgrade alarm (could be dynamco too) is not being activated (I just use the key to lock and unlock the door), which as I am seeing is draining the battery. Maybe its just charging the backup battery continuously or something, which it wouldn't normally do if activated. Any suggestions ?

Here's a quick update on this situation. Bought the remocon off Ebay, which is the same product as the Tandy Rhino version. Tried everything I could to get the thing to learn, but it didn't. It may be that my button is too unreliable for me to get it to work while I am trying to get the learning remote to catch the signal. As it stands, I have disected the original remote down to what looks like a nice little PCB with a few components around the main button. The button moves around a little, so I'm wondering if I could just find someone on SAU who is an electronics guru who would be able to replace this for me. The PCB has different circuitry on the back than the front, so I am unable to figure out how the button is attached to the PCB. Usually the PCB has the same tracks underneath, so you can easily de-solder the button from the underside and replace it that way. Any ideas ? As it stands, I have to break both thumbs trying to get the button to work. Some times it needs a sensitive touch and some times it wants to get rough. Some times it takes a few seconds, and some times it takes 5-10 painful minutes. Not fun in the rain. I have an upgrade alarm dependent on this, so quite limited in what my alternatives are. Unless you guys can come up with something ?

There's plenty of components that could be helping out there. It does sound suspension related if it is ok unless going over bumps. Might be time to change the bushes or something like that. Pretty cheap if you just install pineapples to make it tight again. Check for wet or oily patches in the general area around the subframe. If it isn't suspension related, perhaps something simple like a tailshaft bracket has come loose. Or it could be something dodgy like your exhaust is hanging loose. Either of these rocking at high-speed would amplify the effect of the wobble. Depends what you are feeling. Wouldn't hurt to take a quick look to rule these out. You should be able to give it a decent overview yourself - from gearbox back. Try and shake everything by hand and if anything moves, that'd be the first place to start. Once the initial check is done, best to get it onto a hoist and give it a proper look, especially if it is influencing hi-speed control like that. Should be easy to rule out wheel bearings if you aren't hearing the low hum noise at high speeds. If you drift, then who knows. Might just have to take the trusted mechanic for a spin and see what they think. Oh - Does it feel like your suspension is bottom-ing out ? Perhaps just need a new set of springs, or if there is oil running down your shocks, perhaps time to get a new set of those. Hope this helps.

YES - I knew someone else would have this problem on SAU. Sounds like the Nissan guy who was tasked with screwing in the R33 S 1.5/2 airbag components together wasn't screwing 1 of the bolts right down. Perhaps he had a mental condition that didn't allow a particular bolt to be tightened as tight as the others. Here's my story: - Been hearing a very rare and very subtle rattle for years. Too insignificant to worry about at this stage. - Must have a got a little more frequent and louder over the years, as I knew it was there, but never remembered to have a look at it, as it only happens when I'm on a bumpy road, and by the time I get home, I've forgotten all about it. - Just did a road trip from Sydney to Surfers and back. - Half way there, I got pissed off with hearing it so much on the bumpy road (and it was much louder that it couldn't be ignored), that I pulled over at a rest stop and pulled the steering column panels off to look for it. - My theory is that the bolt was a little loose and a washer was jiggling in the gap. DAMN that jiggling noise. It'll make me hate Santa this year. - Found nothing in the column that would be loose, as it's all steering column and wiring harnesses. - Gave the airbag cover a tap to find it was in there. - Took the side flap off and poked around there with a screwdriver to see if the main piece was loose. Must have touched the connected on the horn with the screwdriver, as it beeped. - Figured there wasn't much more I could do, so left it. - Went all the way to Surfers listening to the jiggle. - Came all the way home listening to the jiggle. - About 3 kms from my house and I hear what sounded like the bolt that came all the way off. - Now I have the same noise you described above in post 1. - Forgot all about the jiggling noise, so can't remember if it is still there, but perhaps the washer is still there. - Finally, when I turn a 90 degree corner, I hear the bolt rattle around in the air bag area until it eventually touches the horn. - Finished the last 3 kms going home with the horn randomly going off like a road-raged goon. - I just started waving at everyone like I pretended to know them. I'd like to figure out how to pop open the front panel/flap to see if is as easy as I theorise it is to find the bolt and washer and resecure it to the bag or module or whatever is in there. Had a quick look on google for anything on any car. Some people found a star screw on each side which when undone allowed the airbag area to slip off the wheel. Another honda or bmw had a spring clip that you could poke at which would allow the airbag flap to open. Glad I didn't unplug the horn like you did though, otherwise I haven't been back to my garage for a few days so the fire would have engulfed it by now for sure. I'm going to check out those links left by the helpful people on here as my next step. Thanks everyone.

Can you post website or contact details ?

I'm in the same situation, but my R33 is black. Wouldn't mind having the stone paint-chips repaired also, but as they are mostly on the bumper, a respray might be enough. Still living with it since those gravel trucks dumped debree on the M2 about 5 years ago. Damn north shore construction. I met a guy who got a whole R33 done, with a custom colour change for $2000. It was done right, with glass and rubbers being removed. Looked great. Wish I got the details, but at least I know it can be done for less than $8K.