dbo

Bump.

I think it might just be the gauge or the sender unit. Keep an eye on it when driving. Mine sits abit under the halfway mark, then suddenly drops straight to 0.. car runs fine and had it serviced last week. Think my problem is related to the gauge. I'll be going for some aftermarket gauges soon so we will know then!

Don't think I can drop 1/3 of the price in 1 day. $250 cash and you can take it.

Hello, For sale I have an R32 ECU chipped by Mines. I'm not 100% sure on the specs, as it is not running in my car. What I have gathered from looking on other websites is that the chip removes the speed cut/boost cut/changes the redline and usually allows more boost, aswell as containing a custom tune that is on the chip. Basically the same as what you get if you got your ECU chipped by someone like Chiptorque. The ecu was running on a 32 with usual mods: Pod filter 3" exhaust FMIC 10psi as far as I know. ECU has a plaque to certifty it's orginality. Not sure what they're worth, so i'll start the price at $300ono as i've seen a few others go for around the same price (Just-Jap sells similar items for $395 here: http://www.justjap.com/parts_uelectronics.htm). Located on the Gold Coast, can ship at buyers expense. Please PM me for more details. Can get pics up tommorow night. Cheers!

Bump! I no longer require an R33 turbo, but I do need: Front or full set of R32 coilovers Injectors (GTR preferebly) Am negotiobale on price.

Hello all, I have for sale a GCG XTRGTST-S1 turbo for sale. It's a stage 1 high-flow from GCG. As far as I can tell, it has steel wheels front and back, and is ball bearing. The turbo is "plated" with the following details, and has GCG written all over it: S/N: 016085 P/N: XTRGTSTS1 The compressor housing is labelled 16V 12 (R32 housing) I had this turbo recently running on my R32 4 door. The turbo has no visible shaft play. It ran very well, but was laggier than stock. My mechanic and I agree that this turbo would be a good choice for an RB25DET, or an RB20 with alot of top end power. The old owner of the car claimed that the car was dynoed at 187rwkw @ 15psi with NO aftermarket fuel system whatsoever. The turbo is rated at 450hp. The turbos are claimed to handle in excess of 20psi with no drama's. Price Drop! Now going fro $1150ono Contact me preferebly via PM, or e-mail. I'm located on the Gold Coast. Email: [email protected] Can get better pics on request. Cheers!

Pretty sure yours is the same, except you have the R33 compressor housing, whereas mine has the R32 compressor housing.

I know. I've ben reading up on the Slide High-flows. I still think GCG have abit more of an advantage over them though. Being ballbearing always helps.

Did some digging on the for sale forums, and found this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=117511&hl=flow Same turbo sold for $1300, so looks like your on the ball tonight Cubes! Thanks for your help!

Sorry for the multiple posts, but I did abit of digging on GCG.com.au, and found this: http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Upgr...pgrade_gtst.htm Thats basically what I have, instead I have the 16V 12 compressor housing (R32) not the 45V2 (R33) housing. $1950 brand new.

I thought as much from the plate on the turbo. Is it ball bearing? So the big question is what is she worth? No shaft play, and it will come with a 15psi actuator..

Old owner had it dyno tuned to 187rwkw with stock fuel pump.. I say with a decent fuel system (injectors/pump/FPR) it should make close to 220rwkw. Edit: that was 187rwkw @ 15psi

Haha spot on mate.. not too good for mid range, but jessu christ hold on once you hit bout 4.5k Made great top end power. I think it would go well on an RB25/RB30

Hello everyone, Just pulled a turbo off my R32 4 door. Need help in figuring out what it is so I can sell it for the right price. My guess is it's a high flow of some kind, steel wheels etc It has a GCG plate on it: S/N: 016085 P/N: XTRGTSTS1 The compressor housing is labelled 16V 12 (I think thats the standard housing for an RB20 turbo, correct me if i'm wrong?) Exhaust housnig doesn't give away much. Near the inlet it says 603A, and randomly somewhere else it says OP6. Has a pretty big exhaust wheel. Here's the pics. Sorry they're abit dark, couldn't get much light.. will try for some more tommorow! What do you guys think?

I got it off.. takes abit of patience... try and twist it while pulling I found that helps!

That looks hot as mate! Shoulda left it that way! P.S. Sorry to be off topic, but did you paint over the 4 door lights to make them look like 2 door lights? Or is it some type of plastic cover? PM me with the reply if you like I am keen to know how you did it.

microtech LT8S. incudes hand controller, lume, sensors, etc Whats this worth? Guessing it was on your RB20? edit: wait the LT8S is traditionally 4x injector 4x spark.. so this doesn't fit on an RB20?

I got an RB20 with a GT25R, so I know about lag aswell... you say it kicks in bout 3500 and full boost bout 5000.. sounds very similar to my car. I'm not sure you have done anything wrong, it may just be down to the fact that the turbine is abit small for the compressor to be responsive. I bought a SII RB25 turbo to put onto my car, as I'd prefer abit less power with more response (i'm into drifting, so it makes sense to have more usable power.. Although in saying all this, The GT25R I have would be a ripper turbo for a drag GTS-t or even better on an RB25. The turbo you have will probably make buttloads of power aswell, although only in the top end.

You still tramp after the coilovers? How high are they set? Pineapples or solid subrame mounts will help. I had the same problem, then I fitted some kei office coils in the rear. It lowered the rear alot, which lowered my centre of gravity, and fixed my axle tramp right up. Can you lower the rear any more? 4 doors for life!

Ah ha I was looking for a thread like this to ask some questions aswell.. I think someone should do a sticky on RB25 turbo's onto RB20's as it is very common. My questions are: My comp cover reads 45V2 just like the one in this picture http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1142290998.jpg But I have the steel front wheel.. so all fingers point to my turbo being a series one? Can someone confirm that because every page I look at gives a different opinion. Now, my second question... how much of a problem are snapped off studs in the back of the exhaust side where the turbo bolts onto the dump? There are 2 snapped off studs still in the holes, and 2 studs that aren't snapped but still intact. Looking at this picture here: http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1142291057.jpg The 2 that are intact are the ones on the bottom where the dump attatchs to the turbo.. so that would be in the bottom right corner of that picture (the turbine end). The 2 snapped one's are at the opposite end, near the internal wastegate. I've been told it isn't a major problem.. I should try and get the bolts out using the "drill" method, which involves drilling into the snapped stud bla bla bla, or I might be able to go to a local engineering shop and shout them a slab if they remove them for me. I'm hoping this isn't a major problem as the turbo itself is in perfect condition... Hoep someone can answer my questions.. Cheers!

Standard ECU? Seems like a decent power figure with those mods... A decent fuel system and aftermarket ECU will see higher results I expect..

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I've got an RB25 turbo sitting hear, and it seems that 2 bolts have been snapped off where it connects to the dump.. Haven't got much thread so i'll probably have to get the drill out.. how much of a problem is this? I didn't snap the one's on my car, so when the turbo goes in can I still use the one's in my car currently?

Ok I opened up the cover... the only chip I saw that had a sticker was: R32 MEC R126 M.INT 8382N406 Hopefully that is what your after?

That would be a great help thanks rob82.. sorry to sound newish but which one would be the chip that has been re-placed? I work on computers for a living so i'm used to seeing PCB's and the like... but i'm not sure exactly which chip is the one that gets installed/replaced...

Haha well there are some goonbag's around.. Good news.. got an all clear "55" on my ECU after the reset.. The car seems to come on power abit nicer, but still is laggy... Still seems to plateu up in the high end, above 6000rpm is where it starts to begin.. i'm thinking I need a fuel pump a-stat, and some injectors wouldn't go astray..