dbo

Thanks alot for the help Merlin.. Your right I wasn't going to put the car on the dyno while the ECU is giving error codes, as that could end up costing me alot of $$$ if something goes wrong. And you're right FATGTS-R, I don't know anything about the ECU... if I did would I be posting questions about it on a skyline forum? As i've said, I would go on the dyno but there is no point when there is something possibly wrong with the car, so really dissconnecting the battery has to be done...

Ok thanks alot for the help.. i've actually dissconnected my battery tonight and pressed the brake pedal a few times to drain the power. I was reading on here before about boost cut/excess airflow protection as it is also known, so I thought it was worth mentioning in relation to my problem. I'm hoping my ECU reset will sort alot of my problems out... I'll return tommorow with my results... fingers crossed for a "55" on my ECU diagnostic..

Ok I got some other questions i'm hoping you can answer... If my ECU is re-chipped, do you think the Excess airflow protection has been removed? Or will this depend on the type of "re-chip" that has been performed... Also, whats the max flow on standard RB20DET injectors (i've been told about 270cc/min) I ask this because once I hit about 1 bar of boost it feels like i've got no more power left... it starts to plateu and i'm thinking this is because either my fuel pump isn't flowing enough, or it's my injectors, or the ECU just doesn't want that much airflow to happen. I have both stock injectors/Fuel pump (I know not cool) but should be getting a bosch 040 soonish.

I have an RB20 with some basic mods... FMIC, GT25R BOV etc... I have been told my ECU has been chipped by chiptorque on the gold coast. I have also heard that many people have had good results after resetting their ECU's. Now my questions is... Is it safe to Reset my ECU even though it has been chipped? I'm pretty sure the car hasn't been dyno tuned but not 100%.. so there is a chance I could lose my tune I have added a few parts since the ECU so im hopng with a reset it may make things run abit better.. Also I receieved a error code 34 (knock sensor) on my diagnoses.. I've been told this could be due to timing or the change in fuel octane? Some fairly easy questions I know, but i'm fairly new at this stuff. Cheers!

My understanding is that the duty cycle is the time the wastegate stays open/closed. "Increasing duty cycle increases the length of time that the wastegate remains closed. If you are exceeding your desired boost level than reduce the duty cycle. If you are not achieving your desired boost level or boost falls off after reaching the set point than increase the duty cycle." (Borrowed from Turbosaturns.net Thank you!) So, with an HKS 2540 on an RB20DET, i'd say 1 Bar is easily a safe boost level. Try setting your duty cycle to say 35% and see if your getting 1 bar. I'm guessing you probably have looked at the Turbosaturns.net website. It gives you a brief understanding of how to setup the AVC-R. If you haven't had a look, go check it out as it may help in your situation. Everyone's Duty cycle should be different for different turbos.

I use to work at Hinterland toyota, so I got to drive the Sportivo corolla's and the celica's with the VVTL-i, so I know what you mean.. But this is alot worse than waiting for the valve lift just to kick in... i'm talking absolutely gutless off boost... I honestly think if I raced a sportivo corolla and started off boost, it could take me out :|

I thought you were after a reading of the boost gauge, hence my posting that 1 bar = 14.7 psi.. I have the same boost gauge.. But as for the different scale below 0 compared to above 0.. I have no idea why they're in different units?

I'd probably say drive your car for a while, and see how high you boost gauge goes? 1 bar = 14.7 psi

I have a GFB plumback blow off valve off an R32 for sale.. bolt's into place of the stock BOV.. PM me if ytour interested.. Definately upgrade your fuel pump.. your BOV shouldn't be opening at 4000 rpm..

Cheers for all the info.. I'll have to ask around and find out if anyone else is running a GT25R on an RB20 like me, and find out if it is normal behaviour to be so laggy..

Yeah not really what I wanted to hear but a good informative insight none the less.. I suppose unless anyone else has some other input i'll be looking for a turbo upgrade?

From what i've been reading I have a suspicion that my car needs a decent tune.. Because she won't make even 0.5 of a bar at say 4200 rpm... Anyone recommend a good place to get a dyno tune on the gold coast?

WEll.. I love the feel of the current GT25R.. and it is good for 22psi which MAY happen one day.. I'm hoping in the end to have close to 260rwkw running about 1 bar, but also something that has a nice response.

Jesus you fella's no your skylines well... I will be taking her to get tuned soon.. but I though i'd ask around first and see what the best solution in reducing lag etc would be.. And yeah.. she makes 1 bar at around 5200.. not sure if my gear based learning in the AVC-R is holding her back or not? Might take her to WASP performance or somewhere on the coast for a decent tune, as I don't know how well the ECU was remapped etc..

Comments like that make me think I should have thought about this alot more hahaha I may aswell ask this in the same thread, but it is abit of a n00b question. What diff comes standard in an R32 4 door GTS-t? As I've heard so many conflicting stories.. I'm goingto be after a new diff soon... but I don't want a big clunky 2 way or anything.. but something that looks well and will allow abit of drift action

Ah ha now this man is a thinker! some good idea's I should look into...\ Is anyone else running this turbo?

Ok.. I tried a search but couldn't find too much to answer my question. My main question is... what is the best way to reduce turbo lag on my RB20? I'll give you a quick rundown of the situation. I have a 4 door R32 GTS-t, with: GT25R Turbo (Dual ball bearing, steel turbine rated to 450hp) Re-mapped ECU Custom FMIC with alloy piping Possibly HKS dump pipe, with high flow cat 3 1/4" exhaust whole way through Apexi AVC-R Thats all I can think of at the moment. I love the turbo, but it seems to start spooling so late and is really laggy untill it does spool. It starts to make boost at around 3000 rpm and hits full boost (1 bar) at about 5200rpm. In the near future i'll be upgrading the injectors, fuel pump and possibly a fuel pressure regulator, as my injectors are pretty close to max duty cycle (thats what it feels like anyway) Will these mods help with my low down power significantly? Or should I be looking at a set of cams to help with low rpm torque? Is my AVC-R set incorrectly i.e should my turbo be spooling quicker than that? I've heard of people clipping turbo fins and things like that, but i'm not interested in playing round with the turbo. I'm hoping that with the FPR installed I should be able to run abit more fuel lower in the rpm range and get abit more torque. I'm hoping to get about 220rwkw once the new parts are in. I'm at about 190rwkw at the moment. Correct me if i'm talking crap, as i'm not as experienced as most members on this forum. Cheers.

Will you seperate? Just interested in the dump/screamer pipe.

Actually I think it is a dodgy gauge.. I watched it closely on the highway last time... it sits at about 2 when cruising... then all of a sudden will flicker down to 0, then straight back upto 2.. She will be going in for a service very soon so i'll have her checked out then.. Cheers!

Hmm... I have an R32 that gives out wierd oil pressure readings. What should the reading normally be? if it's getting close to 0 when say i'm on the highway at constant revs is it something to worry about? I don't have any noise coming from my engine like the other guy, i'm just abit curious as to why my gauge move around so much...

Spot on champ. Idling I hear it, but it slows down and stops when I put in the clutch.. I've been thinking input bearing the whole time but neither of the g/b mechanics agreed... Any idea on what it would cost to replace an input bearing? I'll be getting a timing belt done aswell as a water pump so I might get it done at the same time.. Thanks everyone for your help

Seems to be a very common problem on R32 4 Doors with stock suspension Easiest way to fix this would be to get yourself a thicker rear swaybar, and also some solid rear cradle bushes.. should stiffen your rear end up

I have an R32 GTS-t 4 door that has a strange noise coming from either the gearbox or clutch... i'm thinking the gearbox. Sounds like a bearing problem, but i've been to 2 gearbox mechanics and 1 mechanic and no one can give me a definate answer. If the car is idle, the noise is there. If I then put the clutch in, the noise goes away after about 2 seconds. It's hard to explain th noise.. It is obviously something that is rotating which makes me think a bearing. Definately a clunky type of noise. If i'm driving along, no matter what gear i'm in, the noise is there. if I drive along then press the clutch peddle in, the noise is still there. The noise was there when I bought the car, although it wasn't as loud as it is now. I fitted a new heavy duty clutch to the car, hoping that maybe the noise was the thrust bearing and that would obviously be replaced with a new clutch, but it didn't go away. The mechanic I took it to (fairly well known) said it was probably an input bearing, which is my guess. He told me to see a gearbox mechanic. The first gearbox guy said I had a pulled tooth on 1st gear and that he wanted to rebuild the box for about $1500 (may happen in the future but funds are low at the moment). That doesn't make much sense to me as the noise is there when idling in neutral and in every gear, not just 1st The other gearbox guy said he would pull the box out, take a look inside and see if there is a problem. Ofcourse, he said the box was absolutely beautiful on the inside (his words not mine haha) and that he doesn't know what the problem is. So here I am back at square one.. My un-educated guess would be an input bearing, although I have been told it could possibly be a thrust bearing.. Anyone have any ideas?