84ace

problem solved, i had it t-pieced on the gauge line that had one of those small brass restrictors on it, long story short it just didnt have enough flow to open the ssqv Thanks all for your help

No

Legend!

with my set up i have two choices, i can t-piece the FPR and boost gauge line, which i did or i can t-piece the microtech map sensor line. I think i chose the right one, considering how critical the microtech is to the "mission," anyway... its pretty easy to see when the boost gauge continuously reads 0 instead of reading plus or minus half a brick. I think i would pick up a problem with that line pretty quickly. So that leaves me with another option, drill and tap a new fitting into the manifold. No. so back to it... either there inst enough volume of air getting to the bov or its broked....

hey mate, Microtech are pretty damn good, maybe not for your situation though. I have a lt10s on my rx7 and have put one in a turbo vitara. Dead simple to install and play with. takes about 3-4 hours to wire it up if you do it all properly and neat. takes maybe 2-3 cold starts before you get the AFR's right if the base map was way off (I live in darwin and they always are) R34GTFOUR has said that you cant have idle up on cold... why not? Any way back to facts, Microtech has mapping points every psi positive of zero and for every psi, there is a mapping point per 500rpm. it can do idle up on cold/hot/warm/potatoe whatever really, can do idle up on air con/power steer. can do pulse width modulation for those of you out there that know what a BAC or idle up controller is. can do anti lag for drags or big launches, can do thermos/shift light/nos/water injection/wastegate. Has air temp/water temp correction. has programmable boost/rev cut. has some logging functions and can show max value for most linputs It can do a lot really but if you dont want to get your hands dirty stay with the all mighty PFC. Ring Maztech in melbourne (03) 9416 8411 and ask for Lino last time i checked lt10s was $1010 shipped and the lt12 with the rb plug in harness was around $1200-1300 This was a while ago so don't quote me on prices. Rav if you've got a set buy a microtech

Hi all just wanted some opinions.... Tonight i installed a HKS SSQV in my rx7 and the piece of shit doesn't work. I welded on the flange to the pipe, put the o-ring in the flange, put the bov over it and put in the cir clip. T-Pieced the vacuum line off the FPR. Thought sweet no worries... Took it for a drive and low and behold massive turbo flutter just like before. Thought no worries ive stuffed something, probably vacuum, pulled off the vacuum line to the bov and could feel/hear the suction. I thought It was probably stuck shut form living on my shelf for three months. Pulled it all off, put a screw driver in and pushed the second stage all the way open, then put another screw driver in and pushed the 1st stage open as well. Thought to myself yep i think it was stuck because i herd that cracking noise when a seal hasn't opened in a while. Put it all back together took it for another drive on 6psi, no bov sound all flutter, changed to 14psi same again. Got the shits, picked up my ball and bat and went home that and the sun went down So my questions are: how do i bench test the ssqv? does it need to see vacuum like a normal bov or does it magically just need positive pressure for the reference? how the bloody hell does it work? i cant work out how it could ever overcome the pipe pressure to open? Thanks Acea

hey mate i've done the 33 25 into the 32 and the easiest thing to do is retain the 32 charging loom, thats the one that plugs into your alternator and starter motor and fuse box. i cant see what plugs you mean? but ill have a look tomorrow at whats there on the 25 motor. pretty sure you dont need to swap the pressure sender either, i didnt and it works fine and reads the right amount

as title says

do the s13 and 33rb25 electric speed senders look the same on the outside? not interested in different teeth blah blah blah... cheers Acea

Wanted: Microtech laptop adapter Item Condition: new used whatever, must be working Price and price conditions: whatever Extra Info: must be able to express post it to wodonga vic 3694 Contact Details: PM, or phone 0412880260 Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: will pay freight

as above laptop adapter pinout needed asap, or sell me yours with express post cheers Acea

shit hey. i'd say that's what it is, we do have the timing covers off. i hadn't even considered that the cas bolts onto the top timing cover, which is Xmm thick. what are the chances anything important is shagged? i've got a spare cas if that's the only thing that's likely to have been shot. the half-moon lug thingo inside the cas shaft is still intact on the one still in the car. thanks for the replies fellas

hey all can you tell me whats most likely to produce metal shavings from around the cas/cam gear area on the right hand side when the car is running? am i looking at a wrecked bearing or something wrong with cas? car makes a funny bearing knock and whine that is coming from under the cas somewhere, not actually in the motor but (phew) cheers Acea

Thanks fEkuaR helped me out alot

AFR's are sweet thanks to a wb02 kit we have the computer mapped for a z32 maf but are using the r32 one to put the comp into saturation so at full noise and 7k its running about 11.5:1 (as soon as we are happy with the boost controllability its straight on the dyno for a re map and some timing)

cheers for the fast reply heres the full story... me and a mate have been building his 32 rb25det for ever and have logically progressed to the point where right now after getting a 3in put on 3 days ago the 38mm gate is to small to bypass enough gas. so with the wategate connected straight to the manifold it spikes at 1.5 and drops to about 1.35 in 3rd. where as before with such a restrictive exhaust the max boost it would run was about 14 psi with the wastegate connected to nothing or the boost controller set to max.... being in wodonga and both working full time its going to be about 2 weeks before we can install a tial 44mm gate or something bigger (unsure if 44mm gate is enough?) it made 200rwkw with old exhaust and i think now at 1.5bar and a free flowing exhaust its probably pushing 250 ish (really unsure? +or- half a brick) but the stuck in the seat factor has increased considerably and it breaks traction in 3rd... just need to know if 1.5bar is ok untill we can change the gate and get it back on the dyno for a tune cheers acea

hey all just want to know what the max boost a rb25det can handle regarding just the motor its self... atm it is running about 1.5bar with a t70 turbo and all is well, just want to know if that is safe is the motor capable of more boost or is this about it??? no pinging and no leaning out, so far Cheers Acea

Still looking

Still looking

As title states just those three gauges 60mm in white preferably, on the gold coast for 4 weeks other wise in wodonga vic. pm me if you have them cheers Acea

Found

rb25det turbo pics added

bump!

As stated: 2x 32GTR Turbos rebuilt a year ago, havent had a hard life just been running stock boost ever since, very small amount of shaft play. good condition 1x 33 s1 Rb25det Turbo, bugger all shaft play, come straight off an auto half cut last weekend... Greddy Rebic IV injector controller with all wiring harnesses and speed flow braided line to y pice adapter, not hard to install, the manual can be downloaded from the us greddy site. DOES NOT INCLUDE INJECTORS. it is set up to run one injector at the moment... came off my s5 Rx 7 about a month ago works perfectly 2x GTR turbos $300ea neg. 1x 33 Turbo $400 neg. 1x rebic IV $400 neg. cheers acea contact by email or PM [email protected] below pics are of the rebic and the 33 turbo

Thanks craved i think ive just about got all the info except a pinout for the 32 dash loom plug Anyone have one? Acea