RB20_ZED

just get an extra bit of pipe and hook ur pod filter under ur bumper (cut a hole to put the pipe through) - the extra 30cm of pipe makes up for the very cool air that is pretty much unrestricted. or if u going to build a box - use something that is corrogated between two sheets of metal - it will have a poor heat conductivity compared to something that is solid.. and paint the outside of the box white or chrome.

good luck buddy - when i originally got a vg20et i searched for months and found close to zero - have some tech specs but thats about it... i actually have a manual for a maxima with a vg20et in it but its ALL in jap. the good thing is that all parts etc i needed to replace are identical to the vg30 so no worries there.

yeh its FWD - but im sure the zbox would bolt up and if u took the rest of the driveline u could make it a RWD if u really wanted to. its a 4 door - back doors are smaller and all windows are piller-less so its pretty sporty for a sedan. vg30e and vg30et came out from 84 to 89 in z31, u11 maxima and others(?) - vg30de and vg30det and tt came out 1988 - early versions were the cima and rarer z31 - 1989 saw its common use in the z32 and u12(?) maxima. think all maximas were FWD - zeds were RWD -

my dad has a "nissan bluebird maxima" - vg20et - its basically the same chasis as the american nissan maxima (U11 - vg30e - 1987) - but with the jap spec engine - he's looking to sell it if ur interested - its manual - had the engine changed with a fresher jap one not so long ago - think it has only 30k or so on the engine/gearbox - original factory clutch still. u can always drop in a vg30et since the american version came with the vg30e - or possibly a vg30dett? anyway it looks similar to the leopard - just look for some usa pics of the u11 maxima - and lemme know if ur interested.

i think i mite have the same one - when i got the car there was a small filter but i couldnt find one so i just looked up the standard oil filter and used that - its bigger but it doesnt leak - think its a z145 or something? anyway look it up - just the standard rb series one.

i guess ur assuming that when it melts u turn the car off and let it set... my guess is that the melted bits will be blown out the arse of the car.

I dont think there is a problem if you snap ur timing belt in an rb (besides the obvious) - i mean it doesnt damage the rb engines - cant remember why but its basically the straight set-up of the engine - im sure that v engine setups will definately damage if the timing belt snaps though.

is damaging the cat really that bad a thing? wont it just start to become a "high-flow" cat?

are these butterflys easy to remove and will this change the performance of the engine?

sorry to hijack but... what is all this talk about butterfly valves in the intake?!?!? i have a red top NICS and the only butterfly valve in the intake i can see is the actual throttle body lever... are these valves after the throttle body in the intake manifold??

thanks man - is the r32 gtr alternator rated at 90A also? what are rb20 alternators rated at?

my Rb20 alternator is going bad... ive heard from a lot of ppl that they "think" rb20/25/26 use the same alternator but i wanna know if anyone knows "for sure". like can i go get any one of these and have it fit my rb20 with plugs, belts, bolts and whatever else? also - anyone got any suggestions for alternator swaps that will provide more amps? (that are safe to use with standard wiring etc) and i remembering reading about someone buying a brand new bosch(?) alternator that fit perfectly (cant find the thread now) - anyone know the part number for this is? thanks.

dont know about ur first question but im interested also the other question - red tops less stock power ~10kw or something red tops more low down torque (not much difference though) once uv started to modify the redtop - the differences wont matter.

hey buddy that was my problem - to fix it i took off the throttle body (you have to disassemble the throttle cable assembly) and i bought a can of throttle body cleaner and cleaned everything till it was damn shiney... Especially the throttle cable assembly parts - there are two springs and some plastic/metal separators etc and there was all sticky crap all over them so thats what was doing the sticking... if u spray lube on the outside it wont do anything coz under the outer spring is a whole bunch of pieces that are the sticky parts. be careful when removing all the components so u remember what order they go on -

the only problem is that apparantly ethanol can bond to H20 - thats why there was a stink about it when it was first being used coz obviously water and pistons dont mix. however i think its unlikely to actually get enough water into your engine to do instant damage but i think the whole point is that it "can" do damage over time... who knows if it actually does... i mean most of us use high flow air filters that prolly let in just as much crap and water vapour anyway.

PM sent

nah its a 4 seater - a 2 seater would be nice - ive got an original sales brochure (its about 20 pages) and there were some nice varieties that i didnt even know about. i think im going to look for a nice 2 seater thats had a rb25 transplant in the next year or two. sorry to see your car! yeh $7500 is reasonable i spose - it really depends on the condition + mods.. its a series 2 isnt it? or is it the california shape? if its the california shape then id ask for an extra 1k. dont worry bout it too much though - i had a turbo maxima that i loved and it got ruined by a p-plater in a sss last year - but then i ended up finding this baby so it worked out for the better!

first time ive ventured into this part of the forums - ive got me an 88 200zr - got it late last year - owned by someone in japan who knew what they were doing - nicely modified and very fast - i love it!

no aftermarket ecu - does that mean they cant actually do much if things are wrong?

havent ever been to dyno my car and considering it now that i have a little cash saved - is there any point/benefits other than knowing how much power your car has at the wheels? what else do/can they do for u?

this is a hks one too - it looks like its some sort of little filter but i cant see why u would need it... anyway i had it off all nite and drove a fair bit with no problems.. its all melted and f$cked anyway from being next to the heat shield. i wouldnt mind buying a new one if anyone knows where i can get it???

This was connected between my blow off valve and intake manifold in the middle of 2 vacuum hoses - it looks like its all melted etc and i think it was causing problems with the blow off valve coz it was only working sometimes... anyway ive connected a vaccum hose up without this and everything seems fine now - so just wanna know if anyone knows what it is? and do i need to have it connected for any reason??? thanks.

electronic boost control to 1 bar and feels like it only really hits full boost at around 5500-6000 revs.. i guess its pretty laggy? whats a/r 60 mean anyway? ??PICSORBAN??

noone knows anything about this turbo?

When i bought my car the guy told me it had a "bigger turbo" on it and ive finally gotten round to actually checking it out but have no idea what the numbers mean... (did a search but nothing came up) it says: Garrett N or M 24 T 2 maybe something else after the 2 but it was hard to see A/R 60 Just wondering what are the general specs of this turbo like max boost/ power etc and if this in fact is a better turbo than the stock turbo on an rb20. And is this an aftermarket turbo or did it come stock on some other engine?