brother_david

Hehe ok then temps aint that different

Really helpful answers i've got! Since i live here in Sweden and at extremly hot summers we've reached just about 30 degrees Celsius, or 85 degrees Fahrenheit i guess its about the same temps as in Japan? Anyways, right now its 0 degrees C or 32 degrees F outside. I f i consider outside temps a big part of wareage What i was thinking of when posting this thread was if it was worth spending good time mapping it as good as possible, and through that push the rebuild of the bottom a while, atleast about 6-7 months. I was heading for the tracks this summer, but now i'm probably best of with rebuilding it before i push it to hard. Probably ill start with keeping the boost at about 1.2 BAR as a maximum and after the rebuild head for higher boost if needed. Since i'm going TT (twin 2530's) with my RB25 i was wundering if you've can help me decide whether to go with twin Z32 AFM's or just a single Q45, joining the air-intakes on the turbos? Cheers and thanks for your help! -David

Hope you guys can help me out here, has searched the forum without finding an answer! Its said that the Rb25det pistons on the R33 gtst fails at about 450hp, and my question is if they cant stand the heat they're exposed to at that output, or if they fail mechanicly/cracks and go to pieces? Cheers! -David

Hehe true, also i've looked through alot of threads, but havent really found what im looking for Anyways, doesnt really matter anymore, got my hands on twin HKS 2530's so im off to build soon! Also i was thinking, as far as i know many alot fo people state that getting about 450hp is the absolute maximum of what the stock pistons can take, is it due to heat, more or less melting them, or mechanic failure so that they rip to pieces at that output? Many thanks! David

Hey! Running a R33 GTS Series 1. Thinking of upgrading my turbo, and dont really know which one to go with, first i thought of buying one with a max of 450hp but now ill go with one capable of making 500-600hp for future mods to my engine. Have actually had ppl telling me to go with twin's but i think i've got a to small engine, whats your thoughts on that? Full list of what i will get: Turbo 500-600hp Engine management system, PFC or alike Injectors 740cc Fuelpump (already got one in-tank and one in-line, both Walbro 255 lph) Exhaustsystem (got 5Zigen catback now, will make downpipe and frontpipe myself) New pistons etc. etc. Now heres my question, is anyone running a Garrett GT32, and is it worth buying one brand new? http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...gory_Code=GTNBB Also thinking of one of these (GT32 is there to) : http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...gory_Code=GTNBB Which one will suote my needs the best?

Im positive to the vacuumleak to, but also, maybe a shot lambda? Also, as far as i know, doesnt the ecu now give the engine more fuel as a safetymessure, since it cant read the cat-temp (if the cat-temp indicates to high temp, the timing will be sat back) ?

Could be the Lambda.. ¿ Drove a R33 GTR about same mods as yours, and it seemed to act the same way. Maybe you could borrow lambdas from someone just to narrow down that that isnt the problem.

Whats it doing back there?? Have you had it moved, cause last time i checked the HICAS steering-ECU sat back there and the ECU on my GTST (which i changed 3-4 times) sits near the passengers feet, behind the panel... Anyways mine came with one installed, it was all in the harness, just plug and play... Know that since i removed it some months ago. Hope it'll sort out! Cheers!

Hey! I've got a problem, i have hear'd both versions and i would need some solid fact Which of the clutches fits the R33 GTST, the Z32 N/A (non-turbo) or the Z32 TT? I've ordered one of them, but now im not that sure its the right one! Also a questions that has come to mind.. Does a R33 GTST clutch fit the early R32 GTR's? Please help! Cheers! -David

Very true! Lowered as we speak

Ahh ok, to bad Just payed the RB20DET ecu, and it will ship from the US in a while, but its soon winter here so my car might not be on the road more then a month from now, then i got about 6 boring wintermonths to get hold of everything i want Needs a new clutch anyways Cheers!

Hey! I've got a R33 RB25DET Series 1. Was thinking of buying myself an RB20DET ECU and getting Nistune. My enginemods so far is: MINE's ECU HKS Induction Kit FMIC 5Zigen exhaust system Greddy Profec B-Spec II Cooler thermostat Running about 14 PSI on Shell V-Power (100 octane). Will probably be getting myself a larger turbo the coming months and some time after that bigger injectors. I can get my hands on the ECU rather cheap. The only thing stopping me right now is the loss of VCT-control (and yet a new clutch since it cant handle it after the new ECU), but on the other side, with Nistune i can do whatever i want And it would be 1/3 of the price of a Power FC IF i can get hold of one! So what do you guys think, is it worth it?? Cheers! -David

I can say im sure... that its not You're right when you say its JUN skirts and rear bar! They're giving the car a sleeker look in my eyes And apperently the 400R skirts are a little harder to get hold of since most manufacturers just go for the JUN skirts since they look alike! Im gonna upload some more pictures later, showing the rear It all sat me back, with the paint included, about 2,000 AU$ with a fair bit of discount from the shop I fitted it myself, or that would have cost me about 500 AU$ extra. Cheers! -David

Thanks for all your comments! Happy to hear The decals are gonna go, taking them off when im repainting the lower part of the doors and behind the sideskirts! They look kind bad and takes away the clean look of it. Im overall very happy with the result! The comments i get from people at the streets are really nice!

Hi all! Bought a Nismo 400R kit, along with a GTR-spoiler, a few weeks ago, fixed all mountingspots and go it painted. This morning i went to the paintshop and picked it up and started mounting it. Some friends came over (the white EVO3 with aftermarket front, fitting the rest tomorrow , and a celica gt4 -96) and helped me get it done. Well heres the result, just need to paint the lower part of the doors and behind the sideskirts and its all done! All parts where in a really good condition, just needed to grind some extra fiberglass off and thats it! Im getting a new hood, 400R style, as soon as they arrive to the shop, then its the way i like it Well almost, wouldnt have hurt if it was a real 400R beast What do you think? Cheers -David

I can get hold of a Power FC for the R34 GTT rb25det NEO engine but i own a R33 GTST and my question is will it fit/work? Thank you! -David

Thanks for your answers Im using heatrange 7, NGK's .11 mm gapped to .08 . Im getting em out tomorrow and checking the state of them. Yea i know turning the CAS to much will cause the engine to detonate, only done small and short test , fortunatly a friend of mine is picking up his timing light any day so then ill be able to see what the timing is set to, i'm currently running it centered and not revving to much. I took the coil packs out, cheking the state, when the car was standing still in the garage (for a couple of months over winter) Didnt find any cracks then but since i didnt have this problem before they might have come after taking it out again. If i have the time ill take a look at them again tomorrow! The thing is when it starts to misfire it sounds like its running on 5 cylinders or something, not the same problem last time i had spark plug issues but then i was running different plugs. Thanks again!

I was thinking... Maybe its the sparkplugs anyway, cause i changed the ones i had to new ngk's some time ago. Could it be that when the plugs get hotter and hotter they get softer and softer (the electrode anyway) so that the car starts misfiring easier, meaning that the gap increases easier? Cheers! -David

Hi, i got a problem with my r33 gtst. When i drive the car and it hasnt reached normal driving temp i can rev it any way i want, but when it has reached normal temp it starts to misfire badly around 5000 rpms, earlier i had the CAS turned a fairly bit anti-clockwise and the phenomena occured around 4000 rpms. Im thinking of trying to turn it even more clockwise (is in the middle now) to see if it gets any better. Does anyone know what might be causing this?? Cheers! -David

I've got the very same problem but with an ECR33, the car runs great in the first say 15-20 mins of driving, then starts to misfire more and more the longer i drive. The misfiring seems to occure above 4-4500 rpm. Went for a 3+3 hour drive yesterday (3hours in the morning going to an event, 3 hours returning home). The last tries to reach above 4000 rpm resulted in a very fast, constant misfiring.

Sounds very intresting, havent used one though..

Lalalalalaaa air bouncing back at the compressorwheel... lalalalaaaa

I had the very same problem on my car some time ago! It ended up beeing the front + and -poles on the left side of the engine bay. The thing was that the prior owner had connected front-lights to the +pole and that created a gap big enough for dirt getting in and ruin the connection. Apperently the connection was good enough for panellights and such, but not good enough for the starter. If i recall correctly i think the windows wouldnt move either... Hope that helps!

Hey! I've recently had some problems getting my R33 GTST running! The car will just cough when trying to start it up, BUT it only happens now when its about 0 degrees Celsius (or around 32 degrees Fahrenheit). I was thinking it might be something to do with my spark plugs, changed them for some NGK BKR7E-11 gapped down to 0.7 . The new plugs have a higher self-cleaning temp so i was thinking that they might get slugged up 'cause my car isnt reaching the usual temp when its cold outdoors. Other then that i can say that when i've used it and its has cooled down a bit its struggling to start But will start if its not gotten too cold again. Do you think its the spark plugs or can it be something else?? Cheers! -David