Kam-80

Have a set each of 265/35/18 and 255/40/17 for sale. 265/35/18 - $499ea 255/40/18 - $399ea Both are sot compound, happy to ship at buyer's expense.

Hi All, selling my 480CC Purple Injectors. More info: http://www.nengun.com/nismo/high-performance-injectors Price $650 Location : Melbourne Condition : Used Delivery at buyer's expense or pick up welcome Payment either by cash or DD. Pics uploaded shortly. PM for details.

Rays Engineering Gram Lights 57 Maximum 17 x 9 +22 - $1500 Hi all, selling my old track wheels, used exclusively on track days for approximately 2 years, perfect condition, no scratches, no gutter-rash. Offset to suit GT-R, Evo, 350Z, etc. Strong & light, Ribbed for her pleasure... Pics of them on my car...

Thanks for that, I'll be sure to check it the next time it happens...

I think I may also need one of these, which fuel damper is generally the faulty one, as there's one for each bank?

Fcruz3r; pics below...hmm I appear to be missing 3 of the small bolts when compared to the stock picture. But I've counted on my plenum and it only takes 9 bolts. You can compare the inventory with the stock photo from Pure Innovations;

10mm thick all round. Yep shipping to Perth is all good, around $10. I'm not sure about the V35/G35 but I could still use the 350Z engine cover. Plenum Spacer and Panel Filter on hold.

OK guess I should try and clean out the garage, as it's starting to get hard to park the car in there... Pure Innovations Plenum spacer - $100 This is a flat spacer (not angled) for maximum airflow but won't clear the factory strut brace without spacers. I believe I have all the spacers, will confirm tonight. Supplied with plenum gasket, but advisable to get a new one from Nissan for 100% air-tight fit. Good improvement in mid-range with this mod. Trust Airinx-GT high flow panel filter - $50 Used for only 1 track day and a few hundred k's before boosting the car. I chose the Trust because (apparently) the filter material is the best flowing. Breathes much better than stock. Apex'i Pod filter and heat shield - $60 If you're after a pod filter, this flows quite well and the heat-shield helps with the heak-soak. Will post up some pics tonight or tomorrow, PM me if you're interested.

APS single turbo kit was made for the LHD market. It won't fit RHD as the manifolds won't clear the steering rack assembly. Your best bet is adapting a single turbo kit for the 350Z from HKS, which shouldn't be too difficult.

Ew. Those rotors are cactus. Time to change up...I would hazard a guess that your pads weren't coping with the temperatures and pretty much deposited themselves all over your rotors. Go with good pads and good fluids and your rotors shouldn't ever look like that. My rear rotors are stock and have done around 10 track days, only just starting to lip. VDC and SLIP light can come on if you have a big off or spin, try resetting the ECU and driving around for a few k's, should go away...if not maybe get it checked out. Sounds like some good driving over there...Supercharged 350Z guy NOT representing!

It should fit, but with Procharger just be aware that it's going to be really loud and whiney. If you're OK with that then it's also reputed to have very good power potential. The other thing to make sure of is that you have proper control of timing and fuel. In order to get a safe and reliable set-up you will also need injectors (480cc minimum) and a fuel pump. Some kits come with split-timing boxes and do the extra fuelling with an extra injector in the intake tract. Not ideal but it can work...sometimes. Anyway good luck with your install, supercharged VQs are heaps of fun...

Shouldn't be. What blower are you buying?

It's usually a combination of camber and toe that will kill your tyres early, make sure you're running zero toe. If it was just one tyre that is wearing then I'd have guess a suspension problem but if you're getting even wear on both sides then it's likely still an alignment problem, especially if your car is running stock ride height.

You're legally allowed to drive a car without insurance in Australia, so long as it's registered. Part of the cost of registering your car is for compulsory third party insurance and public liability.

Ahhhh...failed to check UTQG...good spot!

Just a heads-up on purchasing all, I just got my rear set of Hankook K110s from www.tirerack.com and they cost me $311 shipped for 285/30/19. The cheapest quote I got for the same tyre was $430 locally. Shipping cost for four tyres to Melbourne (25km-metro) was around $250 USD. Also it seems the Bridgestone RE001 Adrenaline in America is called the Bridgestone RE760 Sport and they're really cheap compared to local prices. If you can afford to spend a wee bit more, the Yoko AD08s are awesome value. The only catch is some credit cards that are not on the "Verified by VISA" program will not be approved and you'll have to make a USD wire transfer, which can usually be done for a small fee by your bank. Delivery was done by fed-ex and they arrived within a week of payment. I will definitely be buying all my tyres from these guys from now on (except my Advan A050s seeing they don't have them).

Yep order is correct, start with the side that is furthest from the master cylinder and work your way in.

That's pretty unusual, when was the last time you bled your lines? The only thing I can think of is maybe there's some air in one line, which is causing less pressure to the pad. I get marginally more wear on the pads on the left hand side of the car, but that's because the track I usually go to has a number of trail-braked right handers. Even then the wear difference is less than a few mm.

For a track pad you can't go past Project Mu HC+, pricing is around $300-$350 for front pads. On average they last me 8 track days including daily driving, and are rated to 800'C. Previously I have disintegrated the factory pads and EBC RedStuff lasted me 1.5 track days. QFMs are also meant to be pretty good but I've never used them. You should also change your brake-fluid to something with a high boiling point, either Martini GS610 or Motul RBF600/660 (about $35 a bottle, you'll 3 for a full bleed) then you are good to go. For a little bit more heat shielding you can also use a titanium shim. I use this setup on my car with 255-wide semi slicks and ~ 250rwkw, have not had a problem with braking hardware, except what I believe to be some caliper knock-back, which was alleviated somewhat with a floating rotor. I have seen people go from a factory Brembo setup to some sort of BBK and not pick up any extra time, even going backwards sometimes. The reason for this is that the adhesive weak-link is actually the tyres and not the brakes, factory Brembos on a V/Z can flat-spot a semi-slick tyre if you stand on the pedal, the only reason for going BBK (aside from the bling-factor) is for better heat dissipation.

Have you tightened the belt tensioners? There are two of them. When it's cold the metal pulleys get smaller and expand when they get hot also if you've had new belts put on they loosen a bit once they break in, you'll need to tighten them once that happens. Note you should only need to tighten your belts up occasionally...if you're constantly tightening the belts then there might be some other issue.

Whatever you use, make sure you've got a GL4 oil for your gearbox and a GL5 for the diff. Personally I like Redline MT90 as it stands up to a lot of track days, but can be a bit thick in Winter. MTL is good for street-use. Didn't rate the Nulon stuff and currently running Castrol Syntrans, which isn't too bad but I haven't been using it for very long. I have a 1.5-way diff so I use Motul competition oil, 75w130 weight or something.

Sorry, I didn't know there was a difference...clearly my "sx-spec" knowledge is somewhat non-existent.

To give you some constructive feedback, I don't think you can slap a set of really chrome wheels on a stock car and have it look awesome. In my opinion the car needs to be balls-to-the-floor, preferably with a chunky body-kit and your wheel offset needs to be pretty flush with the guard...there's nothing worse than sunken chrome wheels. If you want to go down the chrome-path, don't go to Tempe Tyres and buy the cheap looking wheels. At least get a classic Japanese chromed rim. You can get a good price on a decent set of second-hand wheels from J-imports (www.j-imports.com). Problem is you're in Sydney and they are here in Melbourne, but nothing a weekend road-trip won't solve. If you're after $1750 for wheels, then your budget for wheels + tyres should be at least $2,500. The added bonus is a brand-name Japanese wheel will not depreciate in value at the same rate as a Tempe-brand wheel. In your price-range you could get these Work Meisters - very classic wheel, one of the all-time greats. SSR Professors SP1s in Shadow Chrome - Also very classic wheel. Work VS KF - meh not to my liking personally but very chrome indeed. Volk GT7 Noble - these will look great but you'll need to do some work to get them to fit, lowered, cambered, stretched tyre, maybe even lip the guard.

The Z445 is made by Ryco. IMO if you want a good filter, buy the Nissan OEM. With regards to engine oil, it's all debateable which is best, but as long as you change it often you should be fine...and it's probably not good to be constantly switching between synthetic and mineral, but changing over from one to the other a few times in the car's lifetime shouldn't make any discernable difference. "Sludging" occurs when engine oil breaks down, usually because it's been left in the engine for too long, it's not really a chemical reaction that occurs when you mix oil types or viscoscities, though mixing oil is never the best idea. I think the factory specification for the VQ is somewhere along the lines of 5w30, which is quite thin. Most people with opt for a 5w40 or a 10w40 and go for a full synthetic.

I've used Ryco Z445 on my 350Z in the past, guessing it should be the same...