Kam-80

Fair enough I can understand the liability side of things, sounds like it's just going to be easiest to get whatever I put in CAMS approved then, thanks Duncun!

I can't find my CAMS book, does anyone know whether a half-cage needs to be CAMS compliant if I'm using it in an event that doesn't mandate the use of a cage, like the regular weekend track days?

The wear has been comparable for me...the last set of A050s lasted around 8 track days, similar to the RE55s I had before that. I think I could have extracted another 1-2 days too, with s proper rotation strategy.

My contribution to the oil thread... Initially I used Castrol Edge 0w40 but whenever the car went to the track I found the oil pressures at idle dipping under 100kpa after the third of fourth session. Oil temps were also in the unhappy-range, peaking at 138-degrees. Ambient was quite high that day, about 30-degrees. Anyway the next track day I switched to 300V and idle pressure improved to around 120kpa, with peak temperatures of around 130-degrees, although the temperature ont the day was only in the mid 20s. Now my car is FI and I'm running 50/50 mix of 10w40 and 15w50, the last track day the car didn't get past 120-degrees and idle oil pressures were also steady at 120kpa. It was colder again though, 20-degrees ambient or thereabouts. So I will be using 300V on the track and something like 8100 Xcess for the road...

I ran a new set on the weekend along along with a friend of mine in his Evo, the tyre is definately faster than RE55 SR2s but after about 3 flying laps they start to go off. I think you're right about the softer compound and sidewall than the SR2, I'm going to swap left and right tyres every few track days to even up the wear.

What does the noise sound like? Sometimes it can be put down to a stone or something similar stuck in your heatshield. I have Project Mu HC+ and titanium shims...when I stop at traffic lights old ladies curse and children's heads explode. I argue that it's a good safety device, just to let everyone know that I'm around.

Agreed. On a VQDE rolling a dyno dynamics dyno in shootout mode you will be hard pressed to make it to 200...maybe if you do everything and a 4.9 final drive. I've only heard of one VQDE making more than 200rwkw in NA, and it was an expensive exercise from what I hear, involving high-comp pistons and upgraded valvetrain.

Yeah for the manual.

I just do mine whenever the gearbox starts feeling notchy...make sure you use a GL4 gearbox oil though.

Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40 daily, swapped out for Motul 300V (10w40 blended with 15w50) for track.

Bad luck mate...depending on which state you're in, state government should have a mediation arm to deal wtih cases like this; consumer affairs in Victoria, NSW fair trading, etc. They're usually very quick to respond and a carry a bit of clout for the consumer. I had to use the Telecommunications Ombudsman once to deal with a bill that Telstra kept sending me for a cancelled service and it was resolved in a matter of days. It's much better to approach the business (assuming he's a business and has an ABN) first and tell them what you want first, i.e. discount or whatever, then if you can't get the outcome you want go to one of these mediation bodies. Unfortunately the decisions these bodies do pass down aren't legally binding but they're a good start if you end up having to go to court.

I've read there are a few ways to effectively keep the ECU out of closed loop tuning, but if it's a big concern then rather than hacking it's probably better to jump straight to a Haltech. EDIT : E-manage Ultimate also has ports for F-Manage and V-Manage so you can continue to add those features to the EUM if required. AFM voltage has been clamped and EMU pressure sensor is doing all the tuning. It's an anomaly at the moment, maybe an RPM / MAF voltage condition trigger.

Ray @ RE did the tune, I'm pretty sure the signal is clamped once it tops out as the car is tuned with MAP as load reference, it works OK after that initial point and brings AFR back up, but it's literally a split second of dumping fuel. I think he might have even tried claming the voltage a bit lower down to no avail.

Sorry I should clarify, my car runs rich on closed loop because I have 480CC injectors and even with injector scaling the closed loop operation can't quite bring it back to stoich. If you're running stock injectors + E-Manage Ultimate you should have no issue with closed loop tuning. It's not partciularly unsafe, just uses a bit more fuel. There are dyno charts that show some gain in the plenum spacer, I don't know about the other mods though but like you said, when tuning NA the yield per dollar spent is very low. Also the VQ is a relatively new tuning platform and as usual you will have 100 keyboard racers for every one person who's spent the time to properly document and evaluate changes so it's going to take time for information to filter through. The RB has been a staple tuning platform for well over a decade so many people have done already done the hard yards.

The final tune was done on the 7th of this month. The dyno broke about a month ago, maybe it has new calibration after repair? I've heard about upgrading the MAF housing from 2.75-inch to 3-inch. If you calculate that out it would give about 10-percent more resolution?

Hey All, yeah I got my E-manage Ultimate working, the issue was in the "Plug & Play" harness, it was a manufacturing fault where the harness was sending +5V to TPS instead of TPS...hmmm. Diagnosed by RE Customs and just re-routed the correct wire. Anyway, after that issue had been sorted out tuning went fine. Yep closed loop does seem to go relatively high onto the load map and it runs a bit rich under those conditions. But my car runs fine. The only issue I'm having is that the car dumps fuel when the AFM runs out at around 6000rpm and using a MAP sensor we've only been able to pull that back up to around 10.5:1 AFR so it feels a bit flat in the driver's seat at that spot. May need to look at substituing a Z32 AFM somewhere down the line but for now it's fine. Also the rev limiter function doesn't seem to be working, though I still need to fiddle around with it a bit more. Other than that E-manage Ultimate runs a treat, car is currently making 258.6rwkw at 7.5 PSI.

I don't think you want to try retrofitting a VQ30DET ECU. There are a slew of tuning options and it comes down to personal preferences and also tuners in your state. Some possibilities.... - Haltech Interceptor - Haltech Platinum 350Z - HKS F-Con - Greddy E-manage Ultimate - TurboXS UTEC

I think TE37s are only available in +12? I think you'll need to roll guards for 10.5 +12, you will have more chance of not having to roll guards with 10.5 +22. 9.5 +12 you should be able to fit with a bit of camber. Safe choice is the 9.5 +22. My car as reference, fronts are 8.5 +14 and rears are 10.5 +24 EDIT : Fronts are running 3.5-degrees camber, rears are around 3-degrees.

I had KU31s on my car, they were fine, not the grippiest tyres but also not the worst. Treadwear was OK, had too much toe-out so killed the fronts fairly quickly. In my past experiences, from a grip perspective... Bridgestone S03 > Hankook K107 > Hankook K110 > stock tyre > Kumho KU31 > Nankang NS2 Don't ever buy Nankang NS2...they were an experiment in tight-arsedness that won't ever be repeated again.

HFCs will make your car sound raspier...but you'll get around 5-7rwkw peak gain, noticeable difference. I found the raspiness also translates into a little more cabin noise at cruising RPM...not Honda-style drone, but you can definately hear it. Unfortunately it's all pretty subjective and your personal taste will dictate what's good and not so good. You're definately right about cats being the most restrictive component and probably best bang-for-buck mod on the exhaust side. Extractors didn't give heaps for the time/money spent and Y-back exhaust didn't give too much either. For the price and installation cost, I would not bother with extractors unless you are planning on going high RPM NA build (or supercharger). My experiences... Fujitsubo Y-back adds nice deep burble but not much louder than OEM except on WOT. Fujitsubo Y-back + Tomei extractors slight increase in dB, adds a bit more burble at idle and through the rev-range. Fujitsubo Y-back + Tomei extractors + X-Force HFC and custom Y-pipe big increase in raspiness and noise. My friend has a VQHR 350Z and I was able to drive it around for a week or so...with just an HKS Y-back (Titanium) it sounded almost like my car with full system, but higher pitched. Hope that helps...

You're in QLD? Just Jap have the Blitz exhaust on their website (350Z). If you were in Melbourne I'd say On The Run Motorsport - though they should be able to ship to you wherever you are (HKS, Fujitsubo). I think I saw an Apex'i on Ebay the other day too. Sorry I should clarify, the Fuji is the quiestest by a country mile. HKS is loud and a bit raspy, Buddyclub is instant EPA

There are heaps to choose from. From what I've personally heard, in order of quietness... - Fujitsubo - HKS - Buddyclub HKS and Buddyclub produce a slightly raspier note, the Fujitsubo is deeper (think it has to do with HKS and Buddyclub having twin-cannon design). The noise level will also increase if you change from stock to high-flow cats. And of course a supercharger will increase the noise both from the engine bay and exhaust. Good luck with your install!

It was under warranty so everything was free of charge. The car had to go through consumption testing though, which was an oil level check every 1,000kms, and no track days in that time either. The whole process from reporting the problem to driving away with the new engine took about a year though.

Not sure if V35s ever got the RevUp but they were first seen on the 350Z Anniversary edition, not a lot of detailed specs but apparently new camshaft profiles, stronger con-rods and crank-shaft. Nissan claim is a lift in power to 221kw and also an increase in red-line to 7000rpm. Apparently there's an issue with tolerances in the piston rings which caused excessive oil burning. This was an issue for me and after some lengthy testing Nissan Australia replaced my engine (long motor) with a new one, which has fixed the excessive oil consumption of my car (averaged around 300-400ml per 1000kms during testing).

Run it on a dyno and check AFRs if the car is running rich in the top-end then you know they'll be gains. It's a small investment to be able to see what sort of gains you might be able to net. I think you have to be a bit more hollistic with suspension...most cars are set up to understeer from factory (safer than oversteer) so if you change just the front sway bar the likely hood is that the car will understeer more. Better that you take the car for a punt and decide how you want to affect handling characteristics from there. Handy chart attached...