Dragonforce

First picture looks absolutely awesome. Any larger size shots? Any more info on that front bar? looks mean as hell

Go tomei from a trader on this site. direct replacement, same thing as the nismo item just rebranded and includes EVERYTHING u need for the change over. Good for like 450hp? (if someone knows an exact figure please post it up)

zorst leak

Thats exactly what it comes down to, how safe it is in the tune. As long as you can keep knock down through the rev range you can tune it to ideal boost pressure for your application. As was said above there is defiantly no 'cut off' for too much boost. it depends on your turbo and tune Good luck getting the power you want mate. the HKS 3037 is a nicee turbo for the 25. Cheers

sorry man... but why pink hose?

Tweakit 3076r Link to item. Its internally gated. I know the 3071Rs had trouble with boost creep with a gate that was too small. Any similar issues? also worried as to whether it would fit in the factory location easy enough and not melt anything.

Also interested in some info if anyone has bought from them

Ash trays wont swap. Gear surround wont swap. Dash surround im not sure about. Door trims do swap Gear knob obviously fits both. All buttons (hazards demist etc) will swap straight across indicator stalks swap. Just a few things

That looks friggen sweet as :D

Boot release solenoid from after market remote i would say actually..

its on the wrong side to have anything to do with fuel flap. How far above it is ur aerial? maybe an after market aerial motor?

Chasing the same thing. Anyone down here who knows coilovers and alignments? Cheers

Looking at a pic of your car tonga mine wont go as low as you have them now. (over 18's) Dont know whats going on... the part number on the rear shock says BNCR33 which is a GTR part number but GTR rear shocks have a square bracket not an eye! which these DO have. Dont know what the hell is going on... So yeah rear is sitting at around 365 and front is sitting around 335 with the springs compressed up pretty far. Will this adversely affect my handling? because its effectively putting more weight over the front of the car rather than the rear....

Anyone else who knows their tein suspension?

Hey guys, Recently bought some Tein SS's off a forum member but im beginning to feel that they may not be what i was described... They are for an R33 gtst, and they fit in perfectly, rears have the eye mounting that gts-t's require etc and the front fit fine. Now what has me confused is, the rears are wound all the way down so the spring is not compressed by the collar at all and im still measuring 380mm from hub to gaurd, which is approx standard. Now i was under the impression that this was the coilovers lowest setting? winding it the other way increases that height. Is this as low as tein SS's go? I can still fit three fingers between the wheel and the gaurd. Also, the fronts are giving me grief to. Wound all the way down (spring not compressed by collar) the wheels are touching the insides of the gaurds. At the moment i have them wound around half way along the threads and its still super low. Now does anyone know whats going on here? Have i been sold GTR front coils and GTS-t rears? If you have tein super streets on your gtst can you please post where you have the collars sitting. Thanks heaps guys! -Dragonforce

Ok I just went a bought a bunch of bolts, Turns out it is M10 x 1.25mm thread pitch Hope this info helps anyone else Cheers all.

Ok I just went a bought a bunch of bolts, Turns out it is M10 x 1.25mm thread pitch Hope this info helps anyone else Cheers all.

hey guys, car is an r33 gtst was wondering what size bolt do i need here to remove the disk? its definatly not 8X1.25 needs to be slightly bigger. this is the threaded hole im talking about... cheers

hey guys, car is an r33 gtst was wondering what size bolt do i need here to remove the disk? its definatly not 8X1.25 needs to be slightly bigger. this is the threaded hole im talking about... cheers

Yep, what you want to do is like GTR-ben said, grab a multi meter and use the amps setting and do some testing. Another good place to test is your fuse box, when the car is off, pull a fuse on a circuit and use the multi meter probes to bridge the gap and if the car is off you should get next to nothing. (Make sure the probes are in the AMPS terminals of the meter, because they are usually different to the volts terminals) Common things that do cause current draw when the car is off are internal lights, alarms and shorts to earth. So that should at least allow you to find which circuit is draining ur battery overnight. Hope that helps dude.

And before you ask, that was custom made by a user on this site and I havnt come across anywhere that sells them... what you could do is paint the standard one in a color that suits your engine bay!

Might help if u specify series 1 or 2. Make sure you get the right ones, Series 1 headlights on a series 2 will mean they will foul your bonnet. And pretty sure series 1 don't line up with the mountings on a series 2. Also justjap sell brand new headlights if u are made of money Also, post in 'wanted to buy' next time

Dude if you can source one please make a tutorial with pics! u would be a god among men! this noise drives me nuts!

Same issue here, Untouched cluster, clears itself up after some minutes :S