simboo

Hey fellas, Wondering where I can source a new gasket to suit my HKS 2510 with GTR style T25/8 housing. I would prefer to try elsewhere from genuine to start with ie: like what I bought for my normal T25G from GCG Turbochargers in Syd, but they dont stock anything to suit a GTR turbo. On a minor note I will also need the compressor outlet gasket - but its easier for me to make this one than it is to make an exhaust gasket. If anyone knows where I can buy one I would really appreciate it. Simon. PS. the pic below is why I need it. I'm already modifying my dump pipe to fit, but I obivously would like a proper gasket too

Hi SK, Unfortunately the CA18DET does not have a consult port as far as I am aware, otherwise I would definately get a consult reader for it. I did however seem to find my problem. I remember when I built the engine, I went to get a set of BCPR6ES-11 (though the manual says cat convertor models should use PFR6A-11) But I ended up using some FR7DCX or something.. which is slightly colder and uses a 1.1mm gap standard. I took all the plugs out today when I got home from work, pushed em down to 0.8mm. I noticed instantly after taking off the engine felt a bit smoother, and when I revved it out... I got nothing but roaring power Looks like I'll be trying that high boost setting out again properly... Cheers fellas. Simon

Ahh this is a possibility. I rebuilt the engine ground up and I ditched the coilpacks for Bosch external coils + leads. They are brand new coils that I installed with the rebuilt engine. The fuel pump is a brand new Bosch 910 (around 400hp or 130lt @ 5bar) though I am only using a small lift pump to my surge tank. I guess that narrows down to the: Leads? I am using only average 8mm leads. Bosch super4 (or whatever) spark plugs rated for my engine. Crappy lift pump What I am thinking is that it might be blowout from incorrect gapping? I gave the car a short run in the cooler weather this morning and on my LOW boost setting @ 9.5psi the car ran fine and didnt 'missfire' or whatever it is. As soon as I switched over to the HIGH boost setting which is about 11-12psi, the car would feel like it hit a soft rev limiter high up in the revs in 1st and 2nd (5,500rpm). Pulling from low revs (2000-4000) in 2nd the car wouldnt have a problem @ this PSI. I'll look into the issue of spark blowout and gapping now that you've mentioned it, as well as the specs for a good lift pump and also what good ($100 -_- ) leads would improve. Cheers, Simon

Hi guys, I soldered up the piece this morning and put a 1.0mm hole in it for the vent. The controller works sweet as now! at 40% solenoid duty I am getting about 9.5-10psi. I noticed a few times when I let the car rev up to 5,000rpm in 1st and 2nd gears, I got a bit of missfire (sounds like rev limiter type missfire). Could this be due to a short spike in the boost pressure that doesnt show up quick enough on the gauge? I've basically started out with injector duty 1-18 the solenoid is fully closed, injector duty 19-50 the solenoid is 40%, injector duty 51-64 the solenoid is fully open. I'm wondering if this is a boost/fuel cut because the airflow meter is maxing out @ its specific fuel cut level (4volts I think) Would I be better to test out with keeping the solenoid at 40% in stead of closed from injector duties 1-18? Simon

Ahhh! I quickly read over the instructions and read about the vent and thought... bah what would I need that for! lol I bought the 1/4 brass T-piece ages ago anyway, just never ended up making it into a vent. What size could you perhaps suggest to be drilled if I solder it up and re-drill? 2.0mm? This makes sense now why I couldnt go over 8psi properly I'll do it in the next few days and hopefully have good results... thanks! Simon

Hey guys, Since I finally got off my ass and plumbed my Jaycar boost controller in today, I thought I would post up a few questions I have. First. I've got an old bluebird with a CA18DET in it, the solenoid is a normally closed type which I used off the fuel system in an S13 sivlia. As it stands, the plumbing only goes plenum > solenoid > wastegate - I am not running a bleed vent back into the intake. I 've tested the circuit out by setting like 2/3/4 injector loads to solenoid fully closed, and 5/6/7 to fully open, then I've revved the car in the driveway to test the solenoid is working by making sure that you can blow through it when you rev the engine a little. it seems to be workign perfectly. The problem. I've set the solenoid to stay closed until around injector duty of approx 20+ then I first had it randomly opening up between 40 and 75% from injector loads 20 - 64. This was just to test out what the boost is like. What I noticed was that the boost only spiked once up to around 10psi, the rest of the time it was pretty much at the stock 8psi actuator level of boost. I had a few weird things happen in this time though. A few missfires at higher RPM - would this be a boost cut? it was a fair feeling surge in power. I then set load points 20 - 40 to 35% open from above 20 load on the injector, and its pretty much a constant 8psi which is what stock actuator is at anyway! Does something not seem right that I need to use such a low % open on the solenoid? Or should I set it lower and try it out. I know for a fact that if its at fully closed I will get a large boost spike as I tested this out momentarily and as soon as the boost gauge went to 12psi I let the accelerator off. Do I just need a really low % opening on the solenoid? Just weary as dont want to damage anything EDIT: As I am only aiming to run about 12psi Cheers.