Michael_1882

Thanks there queensland based right? I appricate the advice i'll try them tomorrow.

Hi guys im curious, what rpm do you "STOCK" RB25DET rev at, when pullig up it will sit at abotu 1500 with the foot on the cluth, when i shift in to netural it seems to back of a little, and if i sit there it back right down to 5-600ish, i though these were ment to idel aroudn 900 all the time, or so i herd???? I'm curious mabe im asking in the wrong section, is there anyone here with a stock GTS-T LOL or who can remember. It'll be greatly apricated. (note all these readings of mine are obviously with no Air con on) Thanks Michael

I did mine yesterday for the first time, and with my body kit, i jacked up the car, remover the front right wheel, (my sump plug is on that side) dropped the oil, let the jack back down so it all came out. Then basiclly take the filter off, becarful it will still have oil in it just tip it upside down, the oil filter is a Z145A, pick them up from repco about $11 for the RYCO (there best at repco) filter. Make sure you run yrou engine before you drain it, so let it idel for 10mins or so, or take it for a normall run, then have tray ready for the oil to run into, and drop your oil, or if you have a low body kit, jack it up and run it for 10mins on idel. Take out yoru sump plug, carefull the oil will be hot, let it drain out, then once its empty take of the filter, (make sure your cap at the top is open it'll help it drain easier) make sure the copper washer is on the sump plug its a 9mm ID and 16mm OD. I poor 100ml of good oil through to flush it, then wait for that to empty. Put your new filter on and sump plug back on, make sure yoru car is level, then refill, i used MOBIL S 10w40 abotu $28 from BIG W. (cheaper there than any auto shop) put the new oil in, mine took about 4.9 lts, so u shoudl be safe of 1 5ltr bottle, but be carfull each year modles slighty different i herd, (aka size sumps) Basiclly check and double check you dipstick, when it read full or high, turn you car on run it for abotu 20second and switch it back off, this will pump the oil through. After that check the dipsitck again and top it up if nesscary. Hope this helps, i did mine yesterday onteh public holiday, i'm new to these engines so i know what its like needing help. Thankfully this board is very helpfull. Michael

I got my licence in April last year then new regulations didnt' come in till eitehr june or july last year, therefore i came in on the old system. LOL NRMA knows exactly what type of car it is modle, year etc. LOL and they not once said they couldnt' insure it, LOL yeah untill u make a claim, F*@^# theifs.

Hmmm mabe because im 17??? I havnt' had my licence for a full year yet, and have also crashed, that might have alot to do with it, i dunno???

It's kinda weird, my car has had a manual conversion, but the power is still to the old automatic switch, they one that sawy att or power w/e and snow, obviously this is disconected but there still current to it so when you switch it, the switch will light up, the power light allthough switch isn't on, flashes intime with the clicking sound, and stops right after. Hmmmm as you guys said its not a problem the car runs find i just find it odd it flicks??? I this a probelm you guys have found becuase yoru converted a auto to a manual, or were you cars allready MT's? Just a though Michael

Still no luck with Just car, at 15k they want me to pay over $4500 a year for full comp Does any one else know of any insurance companies, where they have insured in there parents name and still cover under 21's? Thanks Michael

That looks like the stuff, i just had a 5kg tinn LOL and a tube of hardner, you only need a little bit however. As for the mesh: Too tell you the truth by the looks of the picture you don't really need to take it off, i mean the crack are on the out side and the mesh doesnt' really get in the way, however it could become a problem when respraying. You can leave it on if you want. Personally what i would do, is take it of, either buy new stainless stell mesh if you want silver or stick to what you want, replace the screws with stainless steal so the new ones don't rust, or if its black grill, just paint the stainless ones. Also if you take the mesh back you can easily sand back the "whole" grill, giving it a complete respray, then replace the grill back on with either the old grill or new grill, and new screws. Thats what i would do. Be sure to post pictures of your work. Michael

Bog is a product used by panel beaters. Ive used it to make flairs on a RX7 S1, and its a very very easy product to use. All as you need to do is sand back the area lightly to remove the paint, make sure there is so oil or dirt where yrou goign to bog, so clean it up. Then once you mix the bog, as i said its two parts, you got you putty, then the hardner, mix it up, it'll say on the packet what coulour it shoudl go, then jsut smear it into the crack with a scraper or ne thing really, smooth it out as best as you can on the out side, then leave it 10 or so mins to dry, and start sanding back the bog untill you get the shape you want. As for sandpaper yeah wet and dry will be fine, use a normal gritt one to take the paint work back, but use a heavy grit for takeing the first few layers of the bogged area you have just done, once its getting down to the shape and leveling out with the other plastic, use a finer grit so you get a smoother finish, then last set is jsut painting. It's very very very easy, you will be fine. Bog is basicly an automotive putty, that sets like concrete. Hope i'm of some help. Michael

The external rubber boot that bolts onto the floor for a R33 GTS-T manual shifter. PM me please, if anyone has one. Michael

So are you saying the R34 GTT standard intercooler bolts stright in with no hassels into where the standard R33 (in front of the front left wheel) is a stright fit??? With no stuffing around???????? Sound interesting im jsut puzzel how it would with no hassle if its %61 bigger. Thanks Michael

Thanks for those links to that news article.

Thanks, thats what i needed to hear, i don't know why i was told 6ltrs probably an honst mistake. Thanks for that. Much appricated Michael

Could be a range of things, blue smoke usually represents oil, if i was to guess sounds like a turbo's on it's way out. My dad said somthing abotu the valve guides or somthing aswell, turbo would be a common problem, how many K's it done??? And is it boosting at factory pressier or has it been wound up. Michael

Value for money, i was allways under the assumption that valvoline was jsut a cheep oil. I use it in my ride on lawn mower if thats ne constilation. LOL

I had a hmmmmmmmmmm what can you say...... minor traffic offence last year, i think that will also add to the insurace and the fact i havn't had my licence over 12months yet. Hmmm i'll ring just car again, thanks for the info

Hi guys, i jsut drained my car and changed the filter (R33 GTS-T) RB25DET, and after topping it back up with oil, kicking it over and topping it back up again, i found that it takes less the 5lts, about 4.9. How much do they take, becuase i had someone on this forum say they were a 6ltr sump. So im confused....... cuase the reading on the dipstick now, after topping back up, is perfect, its on high. Thanks in advance Michael

Is there a link where you can download it from??? Huge file, but i can download it through the night. I aussume torrent is a dowloading sharing network???? I'm not sure?? THanks Michael

Ive herd of fan belt squeeking when the car is idleing and once you apply a little throttle the squeeking goes. I dont' know wheater its to tight or to lose, i suspect too tight but once again im guessing, if you want the squeeking to go, when yrou car is ideling, grab a bar of sunlight soap (the plain yellow shit) and touch it on the fan belt (why its running) that will solve the problem. Michael

Yeah my answer to everything like thast is BOG lol BOG it up and sand it back then paint it, i'm not fimilar with Plastibond, but predator makes it sound like its a better bet. Bog is what they use to patch up crack dings in basiclly your body kit (hopefully not all over your car LOL) But yeah bog is really easy to use, once again its 2 parts, its liek 1:50 and you only add a tiny bit of hardner, it goes of in a few mins so you only mix a little up at a time and then you will be sanding for a while LOL, Bog sets like concrete and is what i would use if i was in your situation (only cuase im fimilar with it, not saying it's the best method) I hope it helps Michael

VE has my vote! I think its a VE, well will jsut have to wait for this pic to end up in a magazine with a proper right up, so we can put this debate to rest. I think the shape of the boot and the rear tail lights are very commodorey. Thats my 2cents worth

Yeah good luck, and keep us posted. What style are yoru planning on getting?

Umm what insurance company is your son with??? And do you know how much it is insured for??? Still 1500 a year is pritty good, sounds interesting. Yeah thats a con having it in my mums name, but at this point in time i just want it insured and when im over 21 i'll start getting my own credit rating so when im 25 it shodul be alot cheeper, but atm i still think its in my best interest at this point in time to put it in there name. Just car is a rip LOL, they want to know who the youngest driver is, even if they plan on driving it once a year. Then once they find that out they wanted to charge me $4,500 a year LOL...................hmmmm i don't think so. Thanks ne way guys for your help, i really apricate it, Dean if you coudl ask yoru son, who he's with and what its insured for, it would be very much apricated. Thanks Michael

1993 R33 GTS-T Michael

Yeah its in there name, will be rego in there name, and have rang the majour insurance companies and the only one where i will still be coverd on the policy, even if im not nominated (and jsut have to pay a much higher ecsess) is NRMA for $2200, insured at 15k. Do you know of any companies?