Merilious

Had the same problem in a MR2 I used to have. The car would start and drive fine, and then after a while of driving the car would just die and wouldn't start again for a few mins. It turned out to be the fuel pump, after the car was running for a while it would overheat and just shut down. After it sat for a bit and cooled down it would start working again. Next time it happens see if the pump is priming when you turn the ignition on. Just a thought, easy to check once it happens again.

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Anyone?

Got the right bore size, and 1.2mm thick. The car was running, and starting fine up until the engine dies while I was driving it after the head gasket job.

I have a 1991 GTS-t, I just installed a new Tomei metal head gasket. Started it up let it idle till it reached full temp, turned it off, re-torqued the studs and took it out for a drive. I drove it around for about 30mins, and then it just died all of a sudden. After that the engine won't start anymore, and when starting it the starter struggles to turn the engine over. It spins a few times and then its like it hits a wall and has trouble spinning it,. I thought maybe the head gasket didn't seat properly and some coolant leaked into a cyl and it was trying to compress the liquid in one of the cylinders, but I took out all the spark plugs and all pistons are dry. Also, when all the spark plugs are out and I turn the engine over it spins freely. Anyone got an idea of what the problem could be.

Thanks, off to the store I go.

As the title says, searched but couldn't find a definitive answer, someone said 27mm another said 30mm. I only have up to 25mm in my tool set, need to go and buy one. TIA

I did, three times..lol The welds just kept breaking, it also doesn't help that the bracket is made of tin can thickness metal and that I have a clutch so stiff it seems like I have gone to the gym everytime I drive my car. After the 3rd time welding it I told myself if it breaks again im just gonna bite the bullet and get the NISMO one.

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I have a 1991 GTS-t, and the small spot welds my clutch pedal bracket snapped. So I bought a Nismo one, but after I took the old one out, removed the pedal from it and moved it over to the new one I have a problem. I can't figure out how to mount the assist spring back to the pedal. Is there some kind of trick to doing this? I have spent like 2 hours with this unit in front of me and I can't figure out how to get the damn spring back on the new, or even the old bracket so it works right. Has anyone done this before, or does anyone have a pic of a R32 clutch pedal bracket that they can post up so I can see how is it mounted? Thanks.

Thanks man.

As the topic title says, whats the stock thickness of the RB20DET's head gasket? 1.0mm? 1.2mm?

Sorry, I guess I should have said that I need everything all from the same person. Thanks though.

Im looking for a OEM R32 GTS-t front electric motorized lip. You know the one that comes down at a certian speed, and can be controlled by a switch in the cabin. Need everything, the lip, the motors, the switch and all the electrical wires. Post up what you have, a pic would be nice, and your price. Would need to be shipped to Vancouver....Surrey actually but you will need to be willing to ship to Canada. Thanks.

Anyone?

Is there a cltuch inspection cover on RB20 motors. Or do you have to remove the tranny to see the clutch and flywheel?

So my cltuch has been slipping quite a bit lately, in 3rd, 4th, and 5th mostly. But if the clutch is cold it wont slip, and also if its cold you can even pull the ebrake while stoped, put it in 1st gear and drop the clutch it will hold and bog down the car until it stalls. Once it warms up it starts slipping though. My mechainc told me that its probably glazed over and that if I just take it easy on it for a week or so it will wear off the glazing and everything should return to normal. Is this true or is my clutch screwed for good and I should get a new one put in?

I have a 1990 GTS-t that im having a problem with. My car has a slight hesitation problem, its not very often but heres somthing that I think is very weird. The cam angle sensor is fully advanced and if I try and retard the timing even a tiny bit the hesitation problem will get severely worse. It only runs right(I use that term losely cause it still hesitates) when I have the cam angle sensor timing fully advanced. It has not skiped a timing tooth, and almost every sensor on the car has been checked. Anyone have a idea why I would have to have it at fully advaned timing to run right? Im running 94octane gas and always have. TIA.

I went into my cars climate control diagnostic mode and got two codes. One was code 25 = sunload sensor, which im not concerned about because it was in the shade. And the other was code 45. Whats code 45 mean? Anyone know? BTW its a R32.

My guess would be that its a bad coil. Does it only buck and feel like its loosing power after about 4500rpm? Or is the problem from idle to redline?

Its 100% not real