GorGasm

^^^ Dont agree. I prefer the RB26. As far as competing in racing goes a stagea needs an arseload of weight reduction in 4wd form. 16-1700kg just doesnt turn that well compared to 12-1500kg cars. My RWD stag feels heavy enough already without another 100kg for 4wd.

the forester sti is pretty kickass. Apparently faster than a wrx sti in certain forms in a straight line. Unfortunately the Stagea is the slowest wagon, even legnums are faster. Legnums are more common than stags over here, mechanically the stagea is stronger by miles.

Sounds like a few minor issues. I doubt TCS will work as the stinger doesnt appear to support it. You may have idle issues. Why dont you ask the shop why it doesnt start up as fast as before and why the lights are always on? If you did then what did they say?

I doubt the gauge is faulty if its giving a reading. Sounds more like your car just runs that much boost.

a failed turbo would be a consistent issue. Coils and ignition would be an intermittent issue. I washed my engine once and the car never ran the same until i replaced the coils. Symptoms i had were lack of power between 4-5k rpm and occasional chuffing at 2.5-3.5krpm. It would drive okay after about 2-3 hours of driving. Sounds like the coils are naffed to me.

My guess is its just a normal type valve with a very high pressure behind it. An HKS SSQ may give a similar effect on a mild road car.

Lowest powered rb25det was 173kw in the c34/35 laurel and c34 stagea.

haha the cap was a freebie too :]. Not sure on the catch can really. Mine doesnt catch much but the pipe has gone brown. More bling that anything else i think. I should really tidy up the engine bay too.

Yes they will. I have g35 rims on mine which have the same measurements.

pics for the interested!

Or maybe not. From memory you just join the two knock wires together....

i have: setgain at 6% gain at 45% start boost at .5 This hits .9 bar. Lower setgain values mean less initial spike i believe.

its in the manual on the apexi website.

Welcome to the yellow club

For those wondering about fitting Josh has answered most of it i think. I know what you mean about the heatsoak. S2s come with R34 coolers as standard and they dont provide the cooling capability of a large front mount. Theyre fine for stock boost but suffer on 10-12 psi especially in hot weather. With a front mount its like driving on a cold day every day! I got a cooling pro kit which has two pieces for the piping coming off the j-pipe past the radiator fan whereas a lot of others are a single piece. Fitting was not too hard at all, just time consuming. For the install you will have to cut a hole under the battery, Cut two little lines into the bumper iron and bend the metal up to fit the cooler behind. This allows the aircon fan to stay. If you have a stock trans cooler you will have to remount it closer to the radiator. I just hacked up the original bracket with a grinder, pretty easy. I also dont think you have to cut the rad fan provided you have cut the hole under the batter right and angle everything correctly. I have the dayz front bar and only had to cut two little semi circle pieces out of it to fit the cooler pipes behind. If you do have any questions im sure we can all give you answers. I was actually putting off the kit because i was worried about the hassles of installing it but it wasnt that hard really. Also ill take some pics once ive cleaned up the car and it stops raining :]

whistling appears to have gone away by itself!! Perhaps it was just the cooler settling in. Either way, im pleased and the cooler seems to provide a decent benefit. Ill throw some pics into the IC thread in the next few days.

Hi, The car already had a profecb boost controller and trust pod. Im fairly certain its the IC/turbo now. Next time it hits the dyno will be with an adjustable FPR and high flow turbo Cheers all.

Im inclined to agree with you actually. The turbo used to only whine when cold and that was a different pitch to the whine i have now. I might see what i can do in regards to a straight pipe or another intercooler.

just checked over most of the piping again and replaced as many of the kits's clamps with the originals as i could as they are stronger. Still have whining. Im starting to think its either the cooler or the turbo.

thats a possibility. It was a cooling pro kit. The piping is good but the clamps are shite. I think im going to undo and redo all the joiners again when i get home and see what happens.

hmmm it is pretty loud. I hope its not the turbo lol! I took the vacuum line from the original pipe and plumbed it into the boost controller feed and then changed it to the boost sensor lead. No change. I didnt have any other lines to change i think.

So i just finished up installing my FMIC kit. Checked and rechecked all the pipes, clamps and lines that needed to be touched/changed etc. Problem is, im now getting a whistle noise on boost. Boost still hits the same spot as before and the car seems to perform alright. Could it be the air rushing over the edges of the new pipes inside the joiners? Im stumped as ive checked all the joiners and clamps multiple times. Any ideas how to check for leaks on the intercooler side of things? Cheers.

the settings you posted are a long long long long way off. The settings r33 mad posted look like a good default setup. I currently run these settings from memory: 2000 -5 3000 -5 4000 0 4500 -2 5000 -9 5500 -13 6000 -11 6500 -14 I also have an SITC which is dialed in to give an extra 5 clicks of timing at 4000 rpm to help clear out the R&R. however it is still noticeable on cooler evenings.

yes that is correct. You should be able to hear the difference in timing at 800rpm going from -15 to +15. The unit also tracks what revs you are at. For example if you are at 4000 rpm the 4000 rpm light will be green, the 5600 and 2400 will be orange and the rest will be red. Im a bit gutted it doesnt have an adjustment point for 4600 rpm as thats where the ECU R&R really cuts out.

while they arent bad cars, a skyline has a lot more room for performance potential. Any of the twin turbo models are a pain to modify. Performance is brisk but not overly flash. 99+ models are built much better than previous models.