oxford1327

Series 1 is a RE401A with 3 solenoids as far as I'm aware, series 2 is RE401B and has 4 solenoids due to it having tiptronic

None of them really do cater for auto transmission specifically, but Haltech and Link have add ons in development that can be tweaked apparently, so I'm currently diving down that rabbit hole and chasing up more info. At this stage its looking like Link are further along and also has the tuners nod of approval for certain elements, so I reckon that will be where we end up, as for which model Link I dunno yet, there will be some numbers crunched and details sorted over before the booking date in march '21

I'll look into that, cheers man. My old chev powered LX Torana hatch had manualised power glide and she was a bit of a pig down low but great fun under load, so definitely know of the up/downsides of manual valve body...

Ahhhh very good, usually TCU is traction, my bad

But is it really that easy?? Surely not hahahaha, nothing else ever is...

RS4 auto AWD doesn't have traction control unit though

Because it is a tiptronic box I think is what the problem is with the ECU control, but I honestly don't know. So I am unaware why it doesn't cover auto vs manual with say a haltech etc, but they all say manual trans only

has anybody heard anymore about whether Haltech have done any more development on their ECU for auto Stags? there was rumours it was in final stages of development and was almost market ready, but then the trail has gone dead as a maggot...... so now I am looking at possibly having to go Link ECU as the nistune has seemingly ran out of range and wont stop knocking above 16psi on 98octane, timing is having to be hella retarded to make it safe, and without need of putting in a second flex sensor so can run a guage for ethanol content so i can know when to jam more boost in safely its been recommended to go to a stand alone ECU for engine protection etc, and leave the std ecu do the basics. now before I get hounded down I just wanna say I'm only going off what has been suggested by the tuners, so I thought that should maybe consult the brains trust and filter through the no doubt multiple and often loud opinions that will be put forward. I welcome this debate of benefits and detractions of each system/provider, and hope that it may come to a general consensus of a reliable ECU that can deliver engine protections as well as ease of tuning while retaining the creature comforts and driveability of the standard ecu features. as a side note here's a list of the current mods to the engine/trans etc. as I can already hear the questions regarding what has it got blah blah blah... RB25det NEO with forged Wiseco piston lower , arp head studs ,standard cams, apparently flowed head with std sized valves, everything else head wise is stock as far as am aware, audi R8 coils,R35 MAF sensor in 4inch sensor tube, 4inch steel inlet pipe, hypergear atr43ss2 turbo (supposedly same as garret 3076) internally gated, GFB twin port atmo BOV, GFB G-force 2 boost controller, 3inch exhaust front to rear with 100cell cat and magnaflow muffler 3inch in 2x2.5 inch outlets, ecu has Nistune 5 board and software updated feb 2020, flex fuel sensor and fuel-lab adjustable reg, deutschwerks in tank 480 pump, 725cc bosch injectors on std fuel rail, 10mm plenum spacer, water to air intercooler rated to 750hp running glycol alcohol mix in its own separate radiator, auto is stage 2 shift kitted from MV Automatics with standard stall converter. I think that about covers it.

All reassembled and airbox partition modified to suit and refitted, kinda sneakily looks like it's factory, the satin black hides its dimensions I reckon, now the wait for 2 weeks till tuning day😔

Finished product installed and ready to organise new tune

Today's project was to develop and tack up a 4inch metal intake pipe to suit the new turbo, coming along nicely, once I've positioned the weld in bung for catch can bypass line she'll be ready to tig together

Ahhh OK thanks for the clarification, the attessa system has sort been one of those mysterious gadgets that I didn't wanna stuff with too much while it's working, the old "if it ain't broken"... I'm guessing that the amount of slip was noticeable enough to them to have said something, and they've done plenty of GTR and Subaru stuff on a regular basis to have made a note of it, hence asking the question if it is something that can be adjusted for future reference. On the road it has not been noticeable at all, as in it do not effect drivability in the wet or stuff like that and the 4wd light on dash doesn't flash etc, so not showing a code to diagnose and that is annoying

Please elaborate and clarify?

Anyone have any experience with transfer case or attessa system slippage? Had car on dyno other day and wheel speeds between front and rear were changing/fluctuating up to 10%over the course of a run. Atessa system had a complete flush and new fluids installed February last year and has had no issues since then, though in the last month or so the 4wd light has intermittently been coming on at startup then once warmed up tends to go back off. Any ideas on how to adjust or what to look for would be great.

yeah have seen those but wondered why so many holes as well as the bit where they say "may require modification " to fit to certain applications, id like to know what they have fitted like from someone not sellin em hahahah. so ill perhaps use the K+N Apollo enclosed pod i have laying about in the mezzanine of the shed if it will physically fit in the area, or just make my own bastadised version from cardboard to get a pattern then buy some ally sheet and use the nutsert gun

i actually dont think they ended up doin a comp check, cos it started to do what it was told, so on my upcoming rostered days off ill do one myself just with a cheapy test kit ive got laying around somewhere from motorbike days. ive seen some enclosures made with poly card and aluminium etc, just wondered if anyone had a pattern kicking around? so ill pose the question to the forum in general if i cant find one without having to trawl through millions of pages when the search function annoys me fo rnot giving the answers i seek as per std

finally have an update after what seems like for-bloody-ever!!!! thankfully the car is now taking timing and we think it was a combination of a dodgy AFM (bosch rip-off) and the CAS on the front of the motor not reading correctly and confusing each other . the Bosch AFM was purchased from a reputable parts company for just under $300, so they are going to take it back and assess it to see whether it is a dodgy unit or just a plain out and out rip-off unit that snuck through from their supply chain. several other OEM Jecs AFM units were tried, but as they are no longer available through nissan the units were all second hand, and took a few goes to get one that was reading correctly, had one that was leaning out real bad, another that just flat out threw codes, and finally on the 3rd go we stole the one of the tuners own R32 and used it for now to get the car at least half way tuned. picked up the car today so that i can drive it while the tuners missus goes in to have their kidlet, then once hes back on deck we can get the tune finished off for both 98 and the sugar juice E85, for the most part the E85 tuning is done with a few different dilution ratios, but so far the thing is a frickin rocket compared to before, it is holding 20+ psi no problem and pulling like a train, so cant wait to see how it goes once the tune is all tickled up. now all i am pondering is whether to keep the factory airbox with the K+N panel filter, or go to a boxed pod, as it has the pod on at the moment and am liking the flutter hahahaha, can anybody point me in the right direction for a pod box that isnt too much of a turd to fit?

I'd love an audi rs6 but I'm not bulk rich, so the stagea is as close as I'll get ha ha ha, and yeah fully agree that if I added it all up between car and bikes over the years it'd be a comfortable house ?

Nah not at all, engine is running again as of last night, new flex fuel pump and lines, adjustable reg, hardwire kit etc etc were all fitted yesterday, so now the testing will commence. And I thought I was half impatient, jeebus Hahahah KiwiRS4T you're keener than me!, but I spose I'm half dreading the outcome since it could possibly be a wallet drainer.... ?

I've been at work all weekend so I dunno, will be calling the workshop tomorrow to see if it's been done, dropped off the ecu on Friday morning and they were going to be spannering on it that arvo, so am hoping it's been tested etc

Fair enough, ecu is on way back from Nistune so should be in the hand either tomorrow or Friday

Yeah we are doin a comp test as soon as ecu is back in car, as well as changing the cas contraption on front of engine, and hopefully either of those will be a steer in the direction of the issue

OK thanks to all for the insight, I'll show the guys working on it all of the suggestions and see if we can find a favorable resolution

Will get the guys to look into this as soon as ecu is back from Nistune, cheers

Old intercooler was return flow from just jap, new cooler flows heaps better intake tract is about 1.2mtrs shorter and runs a lot cooler to the touch even after about an hour of driving, still cold to touch, all new piping so clean as a whistle and showed no improvement with timing issues after changed to new cooler