Mr_RS4

SOLD

Sold pending payment.

Hi guys, I'm selling my 2 Stagea's. Basically I have my daily drive which is a '97 Silver RS4 and I bought a complete parts car off eBay earlier last year which I was going to transfer most of the parts over to my daily then sell off the left overs. But now we are relocating and I'm going to be travelling a lot longer to work so I'm going to need something cheaper to run. And I'm just not going to have room for 4 cars to take with me. And I doubt if I will ever have the time to finish this now. So its all got to go. Specs for both cars: Daily Drive. RB25DET 1997 Silver RS4 220,xxxkms (a bit high but at least they're genuine) Full Nismo body kit 18' Rays Genome wheels Auto (fitted with MV Automatics shift kit) 3" Turbo back exhaust Brand new black return flow FMIC Factory air box (have a pod for it as well) Splitfire coil packs and iridium plugs HKS BOV with return feed fitted Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks (height adj) with brand new bump stops, dust covers and all other rubber parts and bushes replaced with genuine Nissan items from Japan. All suspension bushes through out the car have been recently replaced with urethane items (camber adjustable where applicable) including steering racks, all suspension arms, castor rods etc. S14 rear subframe fitted to allow bigger offset wheels. R32 GTR brakes with DBA slotted rotors and ADR approved braided lines (currently only the front a fitted, haven't gotten to the rears yet). Tie rod ends recently replaced. Timing belt and water pump were done around 155,xxx HKS turbo timer Apexi SAFC and SITC fuel and ignition timing piggy backs HID lights Series 2 tail lights (not in pics but installed now) Spare Car (please note this car was purchased as a parts car only, it is uncomplied and cannot be registered, ever!) 1997 bayside blue RS4 R34 front end conversion, fibreglass guards, genuine aluminium bonnet, genuine front bar and genuine GTR HID head lights (drivers side guard has a crack and will need repair, nothing huge though) Late R33 RB26DETT R33 GTR 5sp gearbox R33 GTR ECU (may have an aftermarket tune on it, not sure) Coilovers 17" wheels twin pod filters GTR intercooler and factory BOV's heavy duty clutch (unsure of type) aftermarket fuel pump (unsure of type) clean interior with manual centre console (I've swapped most of the interior over to the silver car already) Brand new battery Just changed oil as well Extra Parts to go with sale 260RS Diff 260RS front sump/diff 260RS/GTR rear drive shafts Legallis R cat back exhaust (near new in box) And heaps of misc parts, another FMIC kit, 4 stock stage wheels, just machine DBA slotted rotors (stock brake setup) with new racing gear pads, pod filters, more than I probably can't think of. The spare car is complete and together and drivable. It runs great, starts first go, no smoke, drives great, gearbox is smooth and clutch is good. Over all the car isn't perfect. I had started stripping the car down ages ago when I first got it and have had to put it back together pretty quickly so the front end isn't as well aligned as when I got it (didn't care it was going on the other car anyway). Paint is peeling off the engine (common RB26 thing though). There is some damage to the lower lip on the front bar, the headlights need a good polish (they have yellowed) fibreglass guards will need some attention there is a crack in the drivers side guard (nothing too bad though). The silver Stagea only has a couple of small issues, the passenger side steering rack end is getting a bit noisy (should have done them when I did the tie rod ends), passenger side front inner cv boot is split (both shafts were rebuilt about 2 years ago) and I didn't do the rear subframe bushes or diff mount bushes when I swapped the subframe (ran out of time) so there is a bit of vibration when accelerating hard. Also the S15 drive shafts I used are starting to wear out a bit and are getting a bit noisy. I didn't worry about fixing any of it because I have the 260RS diff and driveshafts to replace them and was going to do bushes when it was all out. Also it may show it the pics that the front bar is damaged. These are older pics, its since been replaced and painted. The rest of the body is pretty good for its age. There are small pin dents and scratches and the drivers side side skirt is cracked at the back but not badly. Basically my plan was to swap the R34 front end, RB26 and Manual into my car and go from there. And part out what I wasn't using to recoup some of the cost. Like everyone says I don't want to abandon this project, I've owned the silver car for 8 years now and have put a lot of time and money into it. And fully intended on seeing it though. But with the change of circumstances its not going to happen. So the price....I'm pricing this for a quick sale at $8000 for everything, the whole lot. I really want this to go all together and have someone finish what I'm not going to. I'm not interested in swaps of any kind so don't bother asking. I'm located on South side of Brisbane for the next 4 weeks. Car's can be viewed in the morning most week days and weekends. I'm prepared to sell to interstate buyers but buyer is to make all transport arrangements and is responsible for all costs involved, and payment is to be made and received in full before anything goes anywhere. Also the silver Stagea is still my daily drive for now, but I will be selling it un registered. I can be contacted on 0422 583 180 (call or text). If i'm at work I may not answer just leave a message.

I guess it depends who what insurance company your looking at, but with modified imports there are really only 2 choices that I'm aware of. Just Cars and Shannons. My agreed value on my S1 isn't too bad seeing as I first insured it with them 7 years ago it was originally insured for what a good 260RS sells for now. Mind you its falling quickly now and I know if I canceled and signed up again it would be cut in half again if not more. i.e wouldn't be worth paying for it. But I think I will call them up (and if I don't like the answer try Shannons) and just confirm that it will be covered. Anyway I know what options I've got now and will have to sit and have a hard think about it all and weigh it up.

I already get hit with the stupid high excess. $400 normal and $400 import excess. And I've made a claim in the past with one of my other converted cars (an S13) and didn't have an issue. I mean if I was doing this from scratch I'd just buy a bloody 260RS. But I've had my S1 for 7 years now and have spent quite a bit sorting the suspension and brakes out and as dumb as it sounds I've kind of gotten attached to it despite wanting to sell it more than once (actually I did once and bought it back) And the uncomplied car was pretty damn cheap. Even if I did nothing with it and just parted it out I'd make way more than I paid for it. So yeah I'm going about this the hard way and there has been more than one occasion where I've just thought about selling the 2 cars and buying something already done. But I never do anything the easy way Speaking of insurance though when I was thinking about selling the lot and just getting a 260RS the best online quote I got was a measly $16,000ish. F**K THAT, try and find a 260rs for that price, even an average one. Its no wonder you see the same Stagea's sitting on carsales for months on end when the insurance prices are high and the agreed values are so low! Its hardly worth it. I should probably stop there before I talk myself out of this whole thing

Not the first manual converted car I've had and never had a problem with insurance, this will be the 3rd and have always informed the insurance company. Plenty of other guys on here with converted S1's haven't heard of any insurance issues yet.

Ok after a little more research it looks like I may get away with the older than age of the car problem with the RB30 block because it'll be using a modern twin cam head with emissions gear etc, and will probably need an emissions test. Will have to call around to some engineers in QLD and confirm this though. I always thought that if the motor is older than the car regardless of head etc. that you wouldn't be able to legally do it. Can anyone in QLD confirm that they have had an RB25/26/30 combo engineered and registered? Either way I'm just going to do the manual conversion and swap all the other bits I want for now and keep the RB26 aside till I make a decision. It will either be an RB30 bottom end or build the 26. Thanks for the input guys.

Like I said I'd rather go the RB30 route but I want the right engine numbers on the rego incase I had to make an insurance claim or I decide to sell the car. I don't want any hassles there.

Yeah well like I said the 25 is still in pretty good shape so its not like I'm on borrowed time with it. I think just getting the manual behind the 25 will probably be enough to keep me happy while I wait to build the 26

Thats the option I'm leaning towards at the moment. As much as I like the idea of the Rb30 bottom end, being an older motor than the car its not going to be legal. Like I said I'm not after huge power but want a reliable motor. I'm aware of the costs involved in building a tough 26 but seeing as I'm not chasing massive power figures it would just be a mild build. But yeah there will be plenty of parts for sale when I've finished stripping the donor car and decide on what I'm keeping and whats going.

Hey guys, So basically here is the story. I have my daily S1 still auto with the RB25 obviously. And I also have an uncomplied (can't be complied and don't know how the previous owner ever thought he was going to be able to) S1 sitting here in my garage with an RB26 and manual. I bought it blind and my best case scenario was a swap everything into my S1 and away I go type deal. But when it arrived it wasn't exactly as perfect as the seller made it out to be (wasn't expecting it to be though) but for the price I paid it was worth the risk. Now obviously I will be ripping all the manual conversion gear out and using that but I'm stuck as to which way to go with the engines? My RB25 has about 225,000k's on it now. Its still running strong (haven't comp tested it though), need valve stem seals though (little smokey first thing in the morning for a few seconds) but it hasn't had a hard life really. The RB26 runs strong as well but the cars been sitting for a couple of years with the previous owner and the fluids are in pretty bad shape. But your guess is as good as mine as to what k's are on it and internally what condition its in? Could last a week, couple of months, years? Both motors are stock, stock turbos etc. And to be honest I'm not looking to make big numbers with this car (but more than the 160awkw its making now). Its my daily driver so reliability and at least no worse fuel economy than I'm getting now (hopefully a little better) is key. So I know I have a few options here and I'm dead stuck on which way to go. Keep current RB25 in there and just swap the manual for now. Then save for a rebuild on the 26 then do the swap later on. Just swap the 26 and hope for the best. (Its my daily remember!) I've even been looking at going the RB30 route as I really like the idea of the extra torque to move its fat arse around easier. As far as I know the RB25 head is a straight bolt on, 26 needs mods doesn't it? But I also want this car fully legal so how will I go with the RB30 blocks engine number (being an older motor)? Also both cars are running stagea front/rear diffs and drive shafts still (except my daily is running an S14 rear subframe and shafts). But I have both front/rear diffs and drive shafts from a 260RS on their way from Japan in a container at the moment so which ever way I go these will be going on. So I'm just after opinions as to which way I go. My mind changes on a daily basis. I'm still stripping the other car down at the moment and am having holidays in September to get all this done so need to have it all sorted by then. Thanks everyone.

Location?

If you can move the castor rod at the bush end then its probably stuffed. Put it this way if you can move it with a pry bar or something imagine what 1800 odd kilos of car can do to it. Personally I've used both pillow ball adjustable arms and oem's with whiteline offset bushes. Adjustable arms give you more +ve castor and allow a more accurate setting of the castor.They also made more of an improvement to the handling (especially turn in and feel). But they will wear out and make noise. I'm going back to my oem ones now. Mainly because I can't be stuffed replacing pillow ball ones anymore and I'm making everything legal. Police and QLD transport are looking for anything these days. Ideally if you've got $500 odd to spend just on castor rods then Ikeya Formula make adjustable ones that are bushed.

I've only ever had a S1. I don't think you guys are talking about the O/D though, but the torque converter locking up after warming up. It'll go into O/D when cold but the converter won't lock up until the box reaches temp (kind of sounds like going into another gear though I guess). In winter I can almost get home before it'll lock up. But I don't think thats the problem here anyway. I don't know if the S2's have the A/T switch to go between power, normal and snow. But flicking it in snow will make it feel like that. Takes off in second from stand still. But I'm thinking its going into a limp mode for the gearbox. So could just be a sensor somewhere that on its way out or something more sinister. Explains why when you turn the car on and off it goes away.

Just curious if anyone here has actually had their's db tested. Mine is a custom job from about 8 years ago now (previous owner). 3" from turbo back, custom made oval mid (apparently it was meant for a rotary I was told) and some kind of cannon up back. I've never had any attention from the police with it, but they are coming down real hard on anything that even looks modified around my area at the moment. Its not a bad sounding system and far from obnoxious but it does drone a bit and I'm still not sure its completely within db limits (it wouldn't be far over if at all). The canon on the back has seen better days now anyway and I got over the "canon thing" years ago. So I'm thinking of changing the mid and rear. Making the rear some thing oval with twin tips. Will look a bit more inconspicuous. I'm never going to be chasing massive amounts power from this car, one day if I can get up to 200awkw then I'd be happy with that. So I'm still going to keep it all 3" but want it quieter now with less drone. So something internally baffled instead of straight through is probably going to be the way to go. Anyone with a similar setup to this I would like to hear what you've got.