Mr_RS4

SOLD

Sold pending payment.

Hi guys, I'm selling my 2 Stagea's. Basically I have my daily drive which is a '97 Silver RS4 and I bought a complete parts car off eBay earlier last year which I was going to transfer most of the parts over to my daily then sell off the left overs. But now we are relocating and I'm going to be travelling a lot longer to work so I'm going to need something cheaper to run. And I'm just not going to have room for 4 cars to take with me. And I doubt if I will ever have the time to finish this now. So its all got to go. Specs for both cars: Daily Drive. RB25DET 1997 Silver RS4 220,xxxkms (a bit high but at least they're genuine) Full Nismo body kit 18' Rays Genome wheels Auto (fitted with MV Automatics shift kit) 3" Turbo back exhaust Brand new black return flow FMIC Factory air box (have a pod for it as well) Splitfire coil packs and iridium plugs HKS BOV with return feed fitted Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks (height adj) with brand new bump stops, dust covers and all other rubber parts and bushes replaced with genuine Nissan items from Japan. All suspension bushes through out the car have been recently replaced with urethane items (camber adjustable where applicable) including steering racks, all suspension arms, castor rods etc. S14 rear subframe fitted to allow bigger offset wheels. R32 GTR brakes with DBA slotted rotors and ADR approved braided lines (currently only the front a fitted, haven't gotten to the rears yet). Tie rod ends recently replaced. Timing belt and water pump were done around 155,xxx HKS turbo timer Apexi SAFC and SITC fuel and ignition timing piggy backs HID lights Series 2 tail lights (not in pics but installed now) Spare Car (please note this car was purchased as a parts car only, it is uncomplied and cannot be registered, ever!) 1997 bayside blue RS4 R34 front end conversion, fibreglass guards, genuine aluminium bonnet, genuine front bar and genuine GTR HID head lights (drivers side guard has a crack and will need repair, nothing huge though) Late R33 RB26DETT R33 GTR 5sp gearbox R33 GTR ECU (may have an aftermarket tune on it, not sure) Coilovers 17" wheels twin pod filters GTR intercooler and factory BOV's heavy duty clutch (unsure of type) aftermarket fuel pump (unsure of type) clean interior with manual centre console (I've swapped most of the interior over to the silver car already) Brand new battery Just changed oil as well Extra Parts to go with sale 260RS Diff 260RS front sump/diff 260RS/GTR rear drive shafts Legallis R cat back exhaust (near new in box) And heaps of misc parts, another FMIC kit, 4 stock stage wheels, just machine DBA slotted rotors (stock brake setup) with new racing gear pads, pod filters, more than I probably can't think of. The spare car is complete and together and drivable. It runs great, starts first go, no smoke, drives great, gearbox is smooth and clutch is good. Over all the car isn't perfect. I had started stripping the car down ages ago when I first got it and have had to put it back together pretty quickly so the front end isn't as well aligned as when I got it (didn't care it was going on the other car anyway). Paint is peeling off the engine (common RB26 thing though). There is some damage to the lower lip on the front bar, the headlights need a good polish (they have yellowed) fibreglass guards will need some attention there is a crack in the drivers side guard (nothing too bad though). The silver Stagea only has a couple of small issues, the passenger side steering rack end is getting a bit noisy (should have done them when I did the tie rod ends), passenger side front inner cv boot is split (both shafts were rebuilt about 2 years ago) and I didn't do the rear subframe bushes or diff mount bushes when I swapped the subframe (ran out of time) so there is a bit of vibration when accelerating hard. Also the S15 drive shafts I used are starting to wear out a bit and are getting a bit noisy. I didn't worry about fixing any of it because I have the 260RS diff and driveshafts to replace them and was going to do bushes when it was all out. Also it may show it the pics that the front bar is damaged. These are older pics, its since been replaced and painted. The rest of the body is pretty good for its age. There are small pin dents and scratches and the drivers side side skirt is cracked at the back but not badly. Basically my plan was to swap the R34 front end, RB26 and Manual into my car and go from there. And part out what I wasn't using to recoup some of the cost. Like everyone says I don't want to abandon this project, I've owned the silver car for 8 years now and have put a lot of time and money into it. And fully intended on seeing it though. But with the change of circumstances its not going to happen. So the price....I'm pricing this for a quick sale at $8000 for everything, the whole lot. I really want this to go all together and have someone finish what I'm not going to. I'm not interested in swaps of any kind so don't bother asking. I'm located on South side of Brisbane for the next 4 weeks. Car's can be viewed in the morning most week days and weekends. I'm prepared to sell to interstate buyers but buyer is to make all transport arrangements and is responsible for all costs involved, and payment is to be made and received in full before anything goes anywhere. Also the silver Stagea is still my daily drive for now, but I will be selling it un registered. I can be contacted on 0422 583 180 (call or text). If i'm at work I may not answer just leave a message.

I guess it depends who what insurance company your looking at, but with modified imports there are really only 2 choices that I'm aware of. Just Cars and Shannons. My agreed value on my S1 isn't too bad seeing as I first insured it with them 7 years ago it was originally insured for what a good 260RS sells for now. Mind you its falling quickly now and I know if I canceled and signed up again it would be cut in half again if not more. i.e wouldn't be worth paying for it. But I think I will call them up (and if I don't like the answer try Shannons) and just confirm that it will be covered. Anyway I know what options I've got now and will have to sit and have a hard think about it all and weigh it up.

I already get hit with the stupid high excess. $400 normal and $400 import excess. And I've made a claim in the past with one of my other converted cars (an S13) and didn't have an issue. I mean if I was doing this from scratch I'd just buy a bloody 260RS. But I've had my S1 for 7 years now and have spent quite a bit sorting the suspension and brakes out and as dumb as it sounds I've kind of gotten attached to it despite wanting to sell it more than once (actually I did once and bought it back) And the uncomplied car was pretty damn cheap. Even if I did nothing with it and just parted it out I'd make way more than I paid for it. So yeah I'm going about this the hard way and there has been more than one occasion where I've just thought about selling the 2 cars and buying something already done. But I never do anything the easy way Speaking of insurance though when I was thinking about selling the lot and just getting a 260RS the best online quote I got was a measly $16,000ish. F**K THAT, try and find a 260rs for that price, even an average one. Its no wonder you see the same Stagea's sitting on carsales for months on end when the insurance prices are high and the agreed values are so low! Its hardly worth it. I should probably stop there before I talk myself out of this whole thing

Not the first manual converted car I've had and never had a problem with insurance, this will be the 3rd and have always informed the insurance company. Plenty of other guys on here with converted S1's haven't heard of any insurance issues yet.

Ok after a little more research it looks like I may get away with the older than age of the car problem with the RB30 block because it'll be using a modern twin cam head with emissions gear etc, and will probably need an emissions test. Will have to call around to some engineers in QLD and confirm this though. I always thought that if the motor is older than the car regardless of head etc. that you wouldn't be able to legally do it. Can anyone in QLD confirm that they have had an RB25/26/30 combo engineered and registered? Either way I'm just going to do the manual conversion and swap all the other bits I want for now and keep the RB26 aside till I make a decision. It will either be an RB30 bottom end or build the 26. Thanks for the input guys.

Like I said I'd rather go the RB30 route but I want the right engine numbers on the rego incase I had to make an insurance claim or I decide to sell the car. I don't want any hassles there.

Yeah well like I said the 25 is still in pretty good shape so its not like I'm on borrowed time with it. I think just getting the manual behind the 25 will probably be enough to keep me happy while I wait to build the 26

Thats the option I'm leaning towards at the moment. As much as I like the idea of the Rb30 bottom end, being an older motor than the car its not going to be legal. Like I said I'm not after huge power but want a reliable motor. I'm aware of the costs involved in building a tough 26 but seeing as I'm not chasing massive power figures it would just be a mild build. But yeah there will be plenty of parts for sale when I've finished stripping the donor car and decide on what I'm keeping and whats going.

Hey guys, So basically here is the story. I have my daily S1 still auto with the RB25 obviously. And I also have an uncomplied (can't be complied and don't know how the previous owner ever thought he was going to be able to) S1 sitting here in my garage with an RB26 and manual. I bought it blind and my best case scenario was a swap everything into my S1 and away I go type deal. But when it arrived it wasn't exactly as perfect as the seller made it out to be (wasn't expecting it to be though) but for the price I paid it was worth the risk. Now obviously I will be ripping all the manual conversion gear out and using that but I'm stuck as to which way to go with the engines? My RB25 has about 225,000k's on it now. Its still running strong (haven't comp tested it though), need valve stem seals though (little smokey first thing in the morning for a few seconds) but it hasn't had a hard life really. The RB26 runs strong as well but the cars been sitting for a couple of years with the previous owner and the fluids are in pretty bad shape. But your guess is as good as mine as to what k's are on it and internally what condition its in? Could last a week, couple of months, years? Both motors are stock, stock turbos etc. And to be honest I'm not looking to make big numbers with this car (but more than the 160awkw its making now). Its my daily driver so reliability and at least no worse fuel economy than I'm getting now (hopefully a little better) is key. So I know I have a few options here and I'm dead stuck on which way to go. Keep current RB25 in there and just swap the manual for now. Then save for a rebuild on the 26 then do the swap later on. Just swap the 26 and hope for the best. (Its my daily remember!) I've even been looking at going the RB30 route as I really like the idea of the extra torque to move its fat arse around easier. As far as I know the RB25 head is a straight bolt on, 26 needs mods doesn't it? But I also want this car fully legal so how will I go with the RB30 blocks engine number (being an older motor)? Also both cars are running stagea front/rear diffs and drive shafts still (except my daily is running an S14 rear subframe and shafts). But I have both front/rear diffs and drive shafts from a 260RS on their way from Japan in a container at the moment so which ever way I go these will be going on. So I'm just after opinions as to which way I go. My mind changes on a daily basis. I'm still stripping the other car down at the moment and am having holidays in September to get all this done so need to have it all sorted by then. Thanks everyone.

Location?

If you can move the castor rod at the bush end then its probably stuffed. Put it this way if you can move it with a pry bar or something imagine what 1800 odd kilos of car can do to it. Personally I've used both pillow ball adjustable arms and oem's with whiteline offset bushes. Adjustable arms give you more +ve castor and allow a more accurate setting of the castor.They also made more of an improvement to the handling (especially turn in and feel). But they will wear out and make noise. I'm going back to my oem ones now. Mainly because I can't be stuffed replacing pillow ball ones anymore and I'm making everything legal. Police and QLD transport are looking for anything these days. Ideally if you've got $500 odd to spend just on castor rods then Ikeya Formula make adjustable ones that are bushed.

I've only ever had a S1. I don't think you guys are talking about the O/D though, but the torque converter locking up after warming up. It'll go into O/D when cold but the converter won't lock up until the box reaches temp (kind of sounds like going into another gear though I guess). In winter I can almost get home before it'll lock up. But I don't think thats the problem here anyway. I don't know if the S2's have the A/T switch to go between power, normal and snow. But flicking it in snow will make it feel like that. Takes off in second from stand still. But I'm thinking its going into a limp mode for the gearbox. So could just be a sensor somewhere that on its way out or something more sinister. Explains why when you turn the car on and off it goes away.

Just curious if anyone here has actually had their's db tested. Mine is a custom job from about 8 years ago now (previous owner). 3" from turbo back, custom made oval mid (apparently it was meant for a rotary I was told) and some kind of cannon up back. I've never had any attention from the police with it, but they are coming down real hard on anything that even looks modified around my area at the moment. Its not a bad sounding system and far from obnoxious but it does drone a bit and I'm still not sure its completely within db limits (it wouldn't be far over if at all). The canon on the back has seen better days now anyway and I got over the "canon thing" years ago. So I'm thinking of changing the mid and rear. Making the rear some thing oval with twin tips. Will look a bit more inconspicuous. I'm never going to be chasing massive amounts power from this car, one day if I can get up to 200awkw then I'd be happy with that. So I'm still going to keep it all 3" but want it quieter now with less drone. So something internally baffled instead of straight through is probably going to be the way to go. Anyone with a similar setup to this I would like to hear what you've got.

I bought mine from Dale but was a while ago now. But I remember the price was good. I've also tried worm clamps on the poly bushes as well. Trust me the bar won't be the problem. The adjustable links allow you to adjust preload on either side of the bar. Mind you the billet locks weren't around when I first got my bar (6 years ago now) and I got the links because my oem ones were stuffed. Been at least 18months or more now and no more issues. So seeing as you've got new oem links maybe try the alloy locks first.

Ok guys found some so don't need them any more. But I do need a windscreen washer bottle still if anyone has one.

I'm taking off my current front mount and fitting a nice (hopefully some what stealth black) return flow front mount so I can put a factory air box and snorkel and windscreen washer back in. All those years ago I never had the foresight to keep my factory intercooler pipes left over from the front mount install. So if anyone else has any I'm in desperate need and am prepared to pay for postage. The ones I'm after are the ones that go from the cross over pipe and the turbo in the engine bay down to the factory intercooler in the LHS wheel well. P.S Soon to be for sales GK Tech front mount kit and K&N pod filter and adapter

That won't last. I've used the poly lateral locks years ago when I first put on my sway bar as I was having the exact same issue. They lasted a few weeks before the bar was pushing through. Make sure you don't tighten the D bush clamps until you have full weight on the front suspension. But I still had the issue on and off for a couple of years and just put up with it. I knew my factory links were pretty crap. I replaced them with whiteline adjustable links. After playing around with the links for a bit I've never heard it rubbing again.

Bump

Hi all, After a lot of decision making I have decided to sell my Stagea. I've owned it for 6 years now and it's been a fantasitc car but at the moment we don't have a need for 2 cars and the other family car (x Trail) has got to stay which means this has got to go. Its still my daily drive most days and is registered until April but I'm selling it unregistered as is. Full details below. 1997 Nissan Stagea RS4 209,xxxkms It sounds high but I bought it six years ago at 122,xxxkms and it is a 15 year old car and they are believable kms unlike some of the ones advertised with kms as low as 87,000...come on! Full Nismo (copy) body kit. Front bar is damaged and would be cheaper to replace (see pics), Monkey Warehouse/DMD here in QLD who did my kit still sell them for about $400.00. Also drivers side side skirt has a crack but this is easily repairable. Car hasn't been crashed or anything I just have a really crappy driveway and when we moved here I found out the hard way how bad it was. Car still looks great with it though. 18" Rays Genome deep dish 3 piece wheels with Rays wheel nuts and valve caps. One wheel has some gutter rash in one spot other than that they're all good. Tyres a Continental Conti Sports, fronts are about 70% and rears are about 50% Suspension is a full set of bilstein shocks and whiteline springs, height adjustable, whiteline sway bars adjustable, adjustable castor rods (factory castor rods with whiteline bushes included as well) all bushes front and rear have just been replaced with adjustable super pro bushes including steering rack bushes, front lower control arm ball joints inner and outer have been replaced. Rear toe arms have been replaced with Neotech adjustable arms (I ran out of adjustment with the factory ones) Front drive shafts were rebuilt last year (but the LHS inner boot has split again and will need to be replaced). Also the rear subframe and drive shafts have been swapped for S15 items as they are 10mm narrower in width so I could fit the rear wheels with out having to flare the guards so wheels with more agressive offsets can now be fitted and I fitted solid cradle collars (removable) while I was at it, and despite what a lot of people say its only increased road and diff noise slightly. All up its a good combination and has taken a long time to get right, car handles great, ride is fairly firm but on a good road its great (but can be changed anyway). Tyres do show some signs of wear on the inside edges but I did drive around for some time making adjustments to ride height and sways bars etc before I got an alignment (and found a workshop with half a clue to do it right). But the tyre wear has been fine since then and that was about 6 months ago now. Engine is fairly stock, stock turbo (has always been set at 11psi and I checked for free play when I had the exhaust off a couple of months ago and it was fine), exhaust is a custom 3" mandrel bent system that sits very high so it won't scrape, high flow cat, cannon muffler and a custom built resonator meant for a rotary so its a really nice sounding system with out being offensive. Has a front mount intercooler, pod filter, HKS super sequential BOV plumbed back to intake, factory strut brace, splitfire coils and irridium plugs, gates timming belt (done at approx 155,xxxkms, can't find the reciept at the moment) and the water pump was done at the same time. Brand new battery, front and rear diff oils were changed late last year and engine oil and filter and fuel filter were done approx 2500kms ago. Auto has also got an MV Automatics shift kit and castorl tranzmax z was used when it was fitted. And the O2 sensor, starter motor and alternator were changed last year also. Last time it was on a Dyno it made 160awkw with factory dieing coils before I put in the splitfires which is pretty good consider the very mild mods. Brakes have been replaced with DBA slotted rotors and Dixcel sports brake pads (no noise, very little dust, cold bite is pretty good but get some heat in them and they are great), Maltech ADR approved braided brake lines fitted front and rear (these made a huge difference to pedal feel) and Motul RBF600 brake fulid has been used. Interior is in great condition for its age, steering wheel has worn but not badly, there are a couple of small nicks in the rear LHS door trim but thats about it. Carpets look like new, have always used the factory Stagea floor mats that it came with. Seats have no tears and only the rear has a very small cigaret burn (from before I owned it). There is an Apexi SAFC and SITC in the glove box to tune air/fuel ratios and ignition timing. Stereo wise it has Pioneer carbon kevlar splits front and rear, JBL sub in the rear, Pioneer 4ch amp under the drivers seat and an Apline head unit and TV screen. Its also wired for a PS2 but the inverter blew so I haven't used it since, system sounds great though. Also has an HKS turbo timer and a Python alarm fitted with mircowave proximity sensor and remote start. Rest of the body work its pretty good for its age, there is a small amount of rust in the ususal spot under the side mirror on the drivers side and few small dents and scratches but over all still good. New windscreen fitted late last year too. Also has 6000K HID high/low beam head lights and dual sunroofs too. Now things that need work. The windscreen washer bottle was removed for the intercooler piping, but you can use a R32 washer bottle in the engine bay near the air filter, will need to run new hose and wires, as mentioned above, the front LHS inner cv boot has split (again). I have had these done a couple of times since I've had it and they've always used generic boots (including when they were rebuilt last year. So I would recomend getting genuine ones. The LHS rear inner cv boot has also split but I did use 2nd hand drive shafts when swapping the sub frame, they looked ok at the time but have a small split now. There are no noises or signs that they are worn though so just replacing the boots and re greasing them should be all they need. The front LHS tie rod is worn and is a little noisy and will need to be replaced. The tie rod ends were replaced with Nissan ones about 2 years ago and are still fine, I would replace both tie rods though to be safe. And the front bump stops are worn (I used the generic whiteline foam ones and haven't been to impressed with them at all), I did intend to use new Nissan rubber bump stops and dust boots but haven't had time to do it. But other than that the rest of the car is great, drives great and I still drive it every day. I will be sad to see it go and have been on and off about this for a while, but there is still so much I want to do with it which is why I'm selling it We're saving to buy a house and don't need to cars anyway so this is the logical choice. I hope it goes to someone who will keep going with it and finish it to where I wanted it to be. Asking price is $6800.00 FIRM This is cheaper than any other Stagea I've seen for sale in QLD at the moment and I think the price is fair, also remember that although its currently registered I'm selling it unregistered (I just don't have the time to get the above things fixed and a safety cert) and if I did I'd probably end up keeping it. The suspension components, brakes and wheels/tyres are worth this alone almost if you were to do this on another stock Stagea. Its already a good start to making a great Stagea. Still gets a lot of looks when I'm out and about even though these are more common now. Inspections are welcome, I'm home week days from 9am to 11am in the mornings and should be able to work out a time on the weekends. Please only serious buyers reply I am not interested in any swaps or other offers. Test drives are ok if your over 25, if not sorry but insurance won't allow it but I'm still happy to take you out for a descent drive. I'm located on the south side of Brisbane and can be contacted on 0422 583 180. If I don't answer its probably because of work so just leave me a message and I'll get back to you asap. Interstate buyers are ok but full payment must be recieved before it goes anywhere near a transport. And any questions please ask.

Did you get all 4 done or just the fronts? I've had just the fronts done in the past and had old fronts moved to the rear and it has caused this issue. The difference in rolling diameter between front and rear screws with the attessa system. If you did just get the fronts done swap front to rear and I'll almost gurantee it goes way. And yes it is that sensitive

Depends if they are using the crappy universal fit boots like a workshop I was taking mine to were, they lasted less than 12 months each time. Got it done twice. So I pulled the front shafts out and took them to a C.V workshop here is Brisbane and paid $150ea shaft to have the completely rebuilt with new joints, boots etc....have been great ever since. If the boots haven't been split long and haven't lost a lot of grease and gotten a heap of shit in there you might be ok to just get new boots put on. But stuff the $600 just for boots to be replaced. But that price for refurbished shafts installed isn't too bad. As long as they are descent shafts that haven't had crappy chinese joints or rebuilt cv joints used.

You would be surprised at how well the stock brakes can work with a few upgrades. I've got the slotted DBA4000 series rotors in my C34 S1 with Maltech lines, Motul RBF600 and Dixcel (jap brand) pads. The pad choice came down to availability at the time a couple of years ago as there wern't many choices for S1's back then here in Aus and I kind of bought them blind (seeing as I don't read Japanese) so I can't tell you the specs of the pad but I was surprised at how well the combo preformed on what you could say is a piss weak system compared to the rest of the Nissan lineup. Cold performance is not as good as I'd like but once you get some heat in the brakes they can take a fair amount of punishment. I have been able to get them to fade during some spirited mountain driving but for what the system is it does well. And as for cracking I haven't had any issues in the couple of years I've had them.

If all you've done is the camber kits and the castor kits I wouldn't worry about it, 35k isn't going to hurt them.