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Mr_RS4

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Everything posted by Mr_RS4

  1. I agree with ska, I've never liked the look of the series 2 fronts. To me they just don't look as agressive but this one doesn't look to bad at all. Now I can't wait for my kit to be fitted, just 4 more weeks
  2. When you say longer bolts, are you talking about bell hosuing bolts being different length between auto and manual. If thats what you mean I'm pretty sure that was covered in the parts lists on other threads? But I'm not sure if thats what you mean seeing as you didn't say what they were for. Any more up dates anyway?
  3. ^^^Yeah I meant it the other way around, was up too late last night I love a loud exhaust note, but considering what I bought the stagea for it probably would be best to keep my current system as long as its doing its job. Plus living in a town house now no one took to the 180 very well And as for bolt ons dragging on the ground don't bother going any where near x-force systems. I installed one on my 180 and the fit was shocking. Sure it bolted together but was also probably origionally designed on a standard height car (even then it would be too low). I stuffed it within a couple of months. Used another one on a mates R33 and was a much better fit. And had a pretty nice note to it, but still a little low hanging.
  4. I'm also thinking of revising my setup. The car had a custom job done when it got in Aus by previous owner. Think Rob Bliss did it....and its a pretty quiet system, but still has a nice note to it but not good enough for me. From what I can see it is a 3" inlet on the Canon but the resonator is a custom made one for a rotary (thats why I think its so quiet) and a H/F cat. Its going to be tuned a Mercury monday week so see what it makes and go from there, spent soooo much money on it latley, exhaust might have to wait a bit. Also I think that (from the origional question) the Trust system will be quieter than the HKS. If that helps with the decision.
  5. I used the R34 side mount for some time and was quite happy with it. Although I did have a descent air feed and the intake shroud for it. It doesn't flow as good as a FMIC (going by the fact I had to turn my boost down after fitting the FMIC). I have to admit the current reason I went for the front mount was because of the Nismo kit I'm about to get fitted. It would look really stupid with a big gaping hole at the front and I HATE mesh (way to rice for me) but I also plan more mods down the track so it will pay for itself then. I used one of the GKTech kits (was cheaper than a Just Jap delivered) and was pretty happy with it (bar the clamps, but you get what you pay for) the piping was spot on and the cooler itself was nicely polished and no ugly weld or patch jobs with good mounting points. The brackets are spot on too (unlike the Just Jap kits aparantly) and allow you to shift the cooler side to side when they're loose (becuase it probably will need to be just a little when the new front is on). You do have to cut a hole under the battery but this is done easially with a 3" hole saw and some rubber tubing to protect it. And contrary to popular beliefe you DON'T have to cut the bloody fan blades. Take a good long look (this goes for a lot of work shops out there too) and just cut the hole under the battery a little further back and drill another hole about 10mm back from the last one on the bracket that goes to the tappet cover. BINGO you blades are no where near you fan. Also will need to trim just a little off the front bar support. I sat mine a little further back so I (a: didnt' have to take as much out of the front support and (b: becuase I cut the hole back further the move the cross over pipe back). You'll also need to trim a fair amount of the front bar but this is a piece of cake. All in all it took me 5-6 hours or so. Could do it in less now. If I had to do it again I'd use another cheap kit, but look out for dodgy ebay ones as a mate got one which was meant to be brand new and the core had been repaired. I'd stick to either GKTech (can't go past the price) or Just Jap. Very sorry about the off topic rant, back on now
  6. Gotta love it, only way an RB should sound
  7. I don't think anyone here thats done it so far has used the manual harness. I haven't done a stagea conversion but a few S13's and have never swapped in a manual harness. Just did exactly what owerpowered said...worked fine. Seems like a lot more hastle and cost to me. And I don't mean to sound offensive here but so far I don't see anything "more complete" about this thread than truck boys thread (which is where you should have posted all this, there are enough of these getting around already). I would have just added the new information to that thread. Anyway like I said I'm not trying to sound like a prick just don't see why we needed another thread started. Keep it up and good luck with it !
  8. 3" straight through with no mufflers and standard nissan ecu (nice and rich).....flame bursts FTW!! hahaha seriously for the prices you pay for genuine jap brand systems these days they aren't much more than bolt on systems already here is australia (if you can call them bolt on, I'm yet to see one I'm happy with yet and I've fitted a few of them) or custom jobs for that matter would probably work out more or as much. Where as they REALLY do BOLT ON and I have to admit they have a sound of their own. For eg. an an SR20 always sounds better with a jap brand exhaust, don't know why they just do, ditto for RB's. As for which one I'd go for I really don't know. The HKS is cheaper but isn't all stainless (which doesn't really matter unless your a show pony) but the Trust wasn't much more.
  9. Well basically I'm after a shop around this area also. I'm in Annerley and don't want to be stuffing around getting to and from where ever I end up going to as I will have to rely on public transport. So any other suggestions. I realsie that there probably isn't going to be ANY workshop in brisbane, australia even the world that have at least managed to piss off some customers. Just don't want to go to one that makes a habit of it. Its only a cam belt change and an safc / sitc tune so its not that big a job.
  10. Stupid site crashed before (but I didn't know that at the time ) so I kept hitting the reply button. So ignore the tripple post Intercooler is now gone but the airbox is still up for grabs on ebay. Thanks Josh.
  11. Hi guys I've put both these items up for auction on Ebay and I'm going to let both auctions run through to the end. The starting prices are less than what I would normally have let them go for so you may be able to get a bargin. But I'm not going to end them early. If they pass through then I will post a message back up here and they will be for sale again on these forums. In that case its first in best dressed. Thanks Josh.
  12. Hi guys I've put both these items up for auction on Ebay and I'm going to let both auctions run through to the end. The starting prices are less than what I would normally have let them go for so you may be able to get a bargin. But I'm not going to end them early. If they pass through then I will post a message back up here and they will be for sale again on these forums. In that case its first in best dressed. Thanks Josh.
  13. Hi guys I've put both these items up for auction on Ebay and I'm going to let both auctions run through to the end. The starting prices are less than what I would normally have let them go for so you may be able to get a bargin. But I'm not going to end them early. If they pass through then I will post a message back up here and they will be for sale again on these forums. In that case its first in best dressed. Thanks Josh.
  14. Has anyone used Brisbane Tuning and Turbo Centre in Wooloongabba. Need to get the timing belt done and the safc and sitc tuned in the stagea. Got "quoted" $460 for the belt (thats including the belt itself) and $150 for the tune. Which where if been getting quotes from so far its seems to be a normal price. Just that this is close to me.
  15. Are you running a pod filter or a bleed valve. I ask this for 2 reasons. If your using a bleed valve then chances are by fitting a much higher flowing intercooler your boost will now spike higher if you haven't adjusted your bleed valve, and also if your running a pod filter you will get a much different induction noise when your boost rises. I know I was surprised at how different (and loud) and pod was when I fitted it before and after I installed the fmic. But yeah those clamps are a joke with these types of kits. I was more than happy with the kit itself but the clamps started stripping before they were even that tight. Nothing wrong with the style of clamps, I ended up using the factory clamps in all the hard to get places incase I blew any pipes off so it would be easier to fix. Might just be easier to throw it on a dyno and have someone stick their head underneath and listen. Much easier that making up pipes and just guessing things. At least you'll know then
  16. They are on ebay now as I had no interest here for the last few weeks so you can check them out there and I'm going to let the auction run through. Airbox Link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Stagea-series-1-fac...1QQcmdZViewItem Intercooler Link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Stagea-R34-Side-Mou...1QQcmdZViewItem
  17. prestige and j spec often have the same stock advertised so you could do a comparison between the 2 I guess
  18. Yeah you can see in the first pic of the rust, a crack comes out from the seam to one of the larger spots of rust. Don't know about the random spots around it though as these are no where near the seams. The other tower doesn't look to bad at all but would like a closer look with the tower brace off! You would expect to spend money on the car when it got here. Probably a re spray (depending on what the rest of the body is like) and there would be some mechanical work to do but it does look dead stock, but the Japanese aren't exactly known for the regular service intervals There is another one there for a little over $20G too. That was the one I said had been around for a while, got it confused with this one.
  19. BUMP I have now listed these items on Ebay so check them out if your interested! Just do a search under stagea
  20. SAFC2 is your best bet. It will advance your timing a bit but get it tuned by a reliable tuner and you wont have any trouble. Or you could search for MONTHS for a SITC like I did and not only adjust the timing where the safc affects it but also add some more to come on boost earlier. Still need to get my combo tuned yet. Hopefully next week! What someone described and what seems to be happening to your stagea IS just like a surge on and off similar to a rev limiter but much slower. I always thought it was a hard fuel cut by the ecu and R & R was just a massive amount of timing retard and rich mixtures which could be felt as a sudden power loss but not as sudden as a fuel cut. I've experienced both in skylines and other nissans. And it definately wasn't missfiring from coils etc. SK care to comment?
  21. Its been hanging around on J-Spec for a while but not a this price. I just got home and had the email from Prestige in my inbox. The interior looks great as does most of the exterior. Its not that uncommon to find rust on suspension towers of imports (my last 2 180's have had this problem) but not usually that bad. If it was caused by the elements or something I would expect to see rust on other areas of the car. Maybe some fluid was spilt (like brake fluid, I know I have sat bottles of brake fluid on suspension towers before, not a good idea!!) and has corroded the paint causing it to rust. But for $16, 000 its well worth spending some money on as it still came in as a 3.4 grade so the rest of the car must be pretty good. Shit even if its not once it gets here you could part it out for that price. I just wish I had that money. Anyone want to by my RS4???? No seriously And i'll buy it!! Its not going to last long though.
  22. Although I do like the look of those Rims on a stagea I did prefer your previous ones, they looked horn on a stagea!!! Do you still have them or are you selling them???
  23. Are you using a Pod filter or the standard airbox. I always thought the turbo spooling was quite loud with the factory air box but since I've gone to a pod filter (needed to when I installed my front mount as I couldn't be stuffed modifying the standard airbox intake ) its so loud now, even louder than the exhaust and has a very different sound after installing the front mount but thats becuase I'm now running more boost too If the car is comming onto boost at the same point in the rev range and isn't dropping back off or fluctuating (spelling) then I don't think it will be a leak
  24. There is a fuel cut believe me. When we installed a bleed valve to a friends 4 door R33 it was accidently (got too dark on the street ) wound the wrong way and once it hit 15psi (according to his boost guage) the ecu hit a fuel cut. Feels a lot different to a rev limiter but same sort of thing, just the cut pulses are a lot longer on a fuel cut. Wound it back down again and didn't cut. But R&R will also occur as well but that (to me anyway) just feels like a massive power loss from retarded timing and richer fuel mixes. But there are also downsides to fitting FCD's as they will affect your timing as well in most cases advancing it and make the engine more prone to pinging.
  25. Not as far as I know but to hit the fuel cut you must be pushing 15psi or more as this is where the ecu will cut the fuel afaik, and if your running the standard turbo you don't want to be running this much boost. I've had mine at 12 before and had it spiking in cold weather to almost 14 (before I turned it back to 10 which its at now) and haven't hit the fuel cut yet. But you will need some sort of voltage clamp on the afm to fool the ecu so a fcd is the way to go.
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