Mr_RS4

Yeah sweet. I was only testing it at idle but could hear the revs change when retarding and advancing the 800 knob. And I double checked it with the timing light. Now just have to get it and the safc tuned. I have both units set at zero correction and after fitting the front mount I have raised boost to 10psi and man is it running like sh#t. From about 3000 the ecu is really retarding the timing and then kicks back in again around 4800 to 5000. Light throttle normal driving is ok but when I go wot the map feels like its all over the place not to mention worse fuel economy then I was getting before so I'm assuming I'm hitting R&R. The car has previously made 150awkw with the previous owner but no piggy backs so am hoping for at least that again. However I'm guessing its had a few piggy backs in its life going but the amount of tapped wires on the ecu loom

Hey all, Just installed my SITC last night. Just wanting to make sure everything is working ok. When I just switch the ignition to on (not start car though) the lights do a little dance and then go Red. Kick the car over then the first one is Green, Second is orange and the last 3 a Red. Is that normal or should they all be green. I used a timing light and tried the 800rpm knob from 10 degrees retard to advance and thats what it showed on the crank when look at it with the light. So i assume that since this knob is working the rest will too. Thank for any help Josh

Looking on the Yahoo auctions I've seem a few complete leather interiors up for sale. Would definatley be a container job to get it here but the prices seem reasonable. Long way down my list atm though

Stagea with stripped interior, fixed buckets and a full cage FTW!!! hahaha

So I assume your sileighty has leather then ? Or is it useless too ?

Check out the Yahoo auctions there are always heaps of them on there. Pretty cheap too, considering your already in Japan.

^^^ Yeah thats one reason why I did it but also (and probably mainly) it makes changing spark plugs so much easier. Plus I also like the look of it (don't know why ) God look how dirty my engine bay is. Never used to be like that But I'm going to start some color coding and detaling soon to match the new paint job. Also I notice a lot of people cutting fan blades. A couple of guys at work just used these same kits on their skylines and got a work shop to fit them, and the work shop cut them too. I don't know why because all you need to do is make the hole under the battery a little longer ( to allow for more pipe movement back towards the firewall direction) and then drill another hole the in bracket on the top pipe that goes over the radiator about 10mm from the last hole and bingo no where near the fan. And I also needed to shave some plastic of the body of the A/C thermo fan shroud as its a bloody close fit. But if your prepared to cut a massive chunk out of your front support bar then there is no need for this as you can mount it further forward. But i mounted it further back and lower so there is only about 5cm as the most of the cooler behind the front bar support.

Hey all Just to dig up and old thread I finally did my FMIC install yesterday. I used one of the GKTech kits. Was pretty easy to fit. Had to remove a little from the front bar support (but only a little and it can't even be seen) but all the brackets fitted perfectly. Pipe work was also easy and just had to cut a hole under the battery tray (which also killed my drill in the end ) I did how ever run into problems with the washer bottle. There was no way it was going back to the standard location but after looking at one of the pics in this thread I know I can just spin it 90 degrees and make a new bracket so that will be easy, but i'm going to wait till the body kit is fitted as I can't be stuffed pulling the front bar off again just to do it again when the kit is fitted. All in all it only took about 5hrs total. The only complaints I've got about the kit is the clamps that were supplied were pretty average to say the best and I will be replacing them with descent tbolt style asap as they can't be tightened to much with out stripping. But apart from that its a great kit and for less than $400 delivered then I really can't complain Not really getting stuff all air flow atm but my nismo kit is getting fitted in a few weeks so will have MUCH more then and should look good.

I'm using an SAFC and just (FINALLY) found and bought a apexi SITC (for timming control) of ebay from Japan this morning. Which should be here next week. Haven't actually had the car on the Dyno yet to properly tune the SAFC but its working pretty well so far (Had a wide band sensor at the time and did a quick street tune). I'm hoping once the SITC arrives and I'm installing my FMIC this weekend I'll get it on the dyno and get some good numbers but more importantly better fuel economy!!! The safc is very easy to use and any tuner should be able to work with it easially seeing as there are so many out there (if they can't I'd be finding another tuner). I would recomend though that you try and find an SITC as well so you can adjust and correct the timming seeing as the SAFC is a voltage bender your timming will be automatically affected. Do a search on the topic as SK has a similar setup (but for fuel he's using a Jaycar DFA which is the same thing really) in his stagea and has a pretty detailed write up about it all. Considering the ease of install and use I would definately recomend it for auto stagea users

Everything will be up for sale (front bar, rear lip, side skirts, wing, R34 side mount IC, factory aribox with a k&n etc) I've already got the airbox up for sale in the Stagea section and will add to it as I remove other stuff. Next to go up will be the R34 side mount, hopefully after this weekend. But to be fair I already have some interest in some of the body parts but if that falls through then it will all be up for grabs. Sorry back on topic now. I think I'll just let the shop remove everything and then I'll sell it all after. Will be so much easier and the car won't look shite unless someone finds an easy way to do it. Its not really going to make it cheaper for me.

I still hate you I can't believe it went for that price. I think I worked it out to be around $3500 to $4000 approx by the time it got to my door (which is a hell of a lot less than what you paid) but still a good deal considering EVERYTHING it came with. Ahh well there will be another.......wont there And yeah I'm looking forward to the write up too...good luck!

I'm about to do the same thing, getting a whole new kit fitted and want to reomove everything my self so I can sell it off while the cars at dmd. And the paint on my wing is stuffed too, all blistered while the rest of the car is fine. Strange! Will try on the weekend but if you end up finding out let us know

Was so looking at bidding on that but with just purchasing a new body kit, wheels, fmic and other goodies I should probably get all that out of the way first. And only living in a town house I don't know where the hell I would have stored it all But congrats, thats got to be the best way about going for a manual conversion and from what I could tell from the pics there looks to be a centre console there too! You bastard Now we just need a few more 260RS's to be written off and I can bid again next time one comes up !jokes!

yeah saw this last week. couldn't imagine this would come around too often.

Areo parts are easy to change, I'd take it any day! And yeah I'm a much biger fan of the Series 1 front end. Infact even if I were to purchase a series 2 I probably go back to the series 1 front. More agressive imo. And I think eye lids look great on series 1's.

PRICE DROP Hey all, Have my Series 1 Aribox with Snorkel and Panel Filter up for sale. Really want to sell as a complete package. Panel has just been cleaned (although its hard to tell with the pics) and all is in perfect condition, no missing clips etc. $120.00 for the lot and would prefer local pickup but could organise postage at buyers expense I guess. Thanks Josh Also now have my R34 Side Mount intercooler for sale. Comes with intake shroud as well. Apart from a couple of slightly bent fins (see pics) its in perfect condition. Once again would prefer pickup but will post as buyers expense if need be.

Damn all you S2 drivers and your better fuel economy. It would seem that S2 on average have much bettter economy than the series 1's. I still haven't had my SAFC tuned and am still madly trying to find an SITC. Buggers me why Apexi never made a replacement and yet they keep making new versions of the SAFC

Just to dig up an old thread. I'm picking up my body kit this week and would also like the mesh style (like the dolphin one) and a set of eye lids to go with it just to set it off. I know I could go through Slidewize and import some but if any one knows anywhere here is Aus that I can get them from that would be great.

I will have these available soon (not for about another 4 - 5 weeks though). Since I've just purchased a new body kit. If your still after some then I'm happy to sell them. But I'm in brisbane so you'd have to organise freight.

Although there have been so many threads on this already I have to say if your getting 400km per tank around town then I wouldn't be complaining. If you do a search on this topic you'll come across a thread which shows a lot pf peoples different fuel comsumptions and most are worse than that. But that said if thats what your getting now then you can probably improve on that a bit: -K&N Panel filter -Full 3" Turbo back exhaust (with new dump pipe) -New Spark Plugs gapped to .8 (Normal coppers are fine) -Apexi SAFC and SITC (for fuel mixtures and timming adjustments) !This is ones of the best places to start! -Replace the Oxygen Sensor -Also I've heard that fitting a shift kit (such as the MV Automatics kit for eg.) helps with fuel consumption as it stops a lot of the wasted power through slipping and flaring between gears and throttle changes and also keeps the torque converter locked up more. -And last but not least watch the way you drive, keep off boost as much as you can and keep the torque converter locked as much as you can (espically on the High Way) this will save a fair bit too. My goal is to get over 500kms per tank on the high way and at least 450kms normal driving. Got a little way to go yet, record so far is 420kms with the fuel light on

Thats what I was thinking (as I know toyotas are the same). It doesn't really bother me as your basically out of the power band by 6000 anyway (with standard turbo etc....) just wanted to make sure that its nothing else. It really didn't feel like a miss. But what about people doing the manual conversion and keeping the Auto ecu. I did the same thing when I converted my 180 from manual to auto and there was no problem. But I don't remember there being a hard cut on gear changesin that car but that was some time ago now. What did strike me as being strange though as it would hit this cut at the same point even if I had the car in netural but. Now for the people that have a shift kit (like the MV automatics one for eg.) does this make it more noticable or actually improve it. Also (not that I want to do it at this stage) can you disable it?

Yeah it doesn't backfire, like I said it really sounds and feels just like hitting the rev limiter but a lot faster pulses. I've had miss fires before in other cars I've had and this is very different. Unless its not a complete miss but just the coil packs getting weak in the upper rev range, I've got another set I can try (mind you they're not new either) and I was thinking of switching to Splitfires anyway. Also I might just try some good old coppers instead on the iridiums (has worked for me before) and see how I go. I just thought it might have been an ecu cut just before a shit on wot to stop stress on the auto. I can't even remember if its always been like this or not I'm sure soarers do the same thing or one of the import toyota auto's.

I'm pretty sure that I remember reading in an issue of HPI a while back they did a feature on Auto's with MV Automatics. And as well as the shift kits and other internal mods they do for autos they also have a little black box they've made where it bascially takes the control away from the auto ecu and makes it manual. As in it won't shift itself anymore you need to use the auto shifter to change gears (like 1st, 2nd, D = 3rd etc). This would explain what Tangels was saying. If this were the case then it wouldn't matter about using the PFC as long as it can run the motor, you'd just have to get used to changing gears with the auto selector.

This is a little off topic but still in the same ball park so I'll save starting another thread... Now I don't know if this is a missfire or just the ecu cutting power just before a shift (I know some auto toyotas do this to save the auto on wot gear changes). But basically I put my foot right down and at pretty much 6000rpm it sounds like a rev limiter but faster and smoother (if that makes sense at all) and then shifts and the process starts again. There is no missfire from idle to anywhere else in the rev range at all and runs perfectly even under boost, just at this point. But if I put the car in netural and rev it to this point it will do the same thing. Its really hard to describe but missfires are usually harsh (depending on how servere they are). It really feels and sound like a cut out from the ecu. But I wouldn't think it would do this with me just free reving it. And usually with a missfire if your just revving the car it may not miss until you put some load on the motor. Any ideads.... I've got a set of iridium's which look perfect and gapped to .8 (auctuall I've gapped them down further atm to see if there was any difference) and checked the coil packs over but I have another set I can try if need be. But it doesn't seem like a usual missfire.

Yeah thats probably a better description....but to some it may sound like a kind of ticking