Mr_RS4

I assume your after a Stagea. I'm in brisbane and got mine privately. But think about what you want first. If your after a series 1 RS4 auto then there you will more than likley find one already in the county that is what your looking for either from a yard or priviate. These forums are a good place to start. If your after something like a series 2 manual then importing is probably a better option and you can check out places like prestige motorsport etc. P.S whats up with that pic?

What did you do for engine mounts and crossmember. If i'm going to go ahead with this I will buy a front cut so from what you've listed with exception of the clutch and rear end I will have all the parts I need. And I would be able to swap the front brake setup over as well (rotors could be stuffed and calipers may need to be rebuilt though). Great info so far keep it comming.

Mate pretty simple, if your BOV is atmo (in other words goes psshhht!) then 99% chance its your problem. Nothing to worry about really. If it really bothers you then get a plumb back BOV or get rid of the AFM. BOV's on AMF cars tend to richen the mixtures when you back off the throttle which gives you your back fire.

Or just settle for a series II manual....will have to think about this. Now as much as I love the Stagea i've just bought I am starting to kick my self for not thinking about importing a series II manual. Or just live with the auto. AlexCim does make a good point about the manual conversion. $6k just for a manual is too much, even if you could find somewhere to do the work cheaper than he has been quoted your not going to get all the parts you need including interior bits for under say $4000 inc clutch etc. So even if someone would do it for $1000 labour then your still looking at $5000 and I can't see it getting much cheaper than that. At first I was farily happy to go back to an Auto but not sure now. Plus you get the Neo version with the Series II. Does anyone here have the tiptronic series II. How do they preform just out of curiosity.

hmmm almost seems like its time to start saving. Very tempting. Plus I would do the GTR rear end while I was at it so I would almost be able to most of the Stagea driveline, engine, ecu etc. Would make some of the money back or pay for anything extra. What about the front diff would I be able to swap all of that out of the front cut. I'm not sure here but with fitting the GTR box, front and rear diff / shafts etc I would basically have the entire GTR driveline. Could I use the ATTESSA computer from the GTR or use keep the Stagea one. At least then I could still use the simle fuse pull for RWD. What model RB26 did you use CruiseLiner

It may not be the coils but it could be an ignitor problem. I used to have an SR20DET sileighty and one day I was smart enough to wash out the engine bay (I was younger and much more stupid back then ) and stuffed the TPS, car ran like shit would miss and splutter all over the place and it was still auto then and wouldn't shift properly. I converted it to manual (which I was going to do anyway), fitted a manual TPS and it still missed heaps. I checked over the coils and couldn't find anything wrong but still assumed this was the problem because I fitted a new set of standard NGK plugs gapped to what they should be. Still no good. So I thought just as a test I gapped them RIGHT down and bingo, it still missed a little under high load but nothing like it had been. Then I purchased a set of NGK Platinum plugs and gapped to spec and bingo sweet. So like SK said, if they look in good condition and you can see no signs of arcing then they most likley are. Just as a test try closing the gap on the plugs and see what happens.

i'm just looking at all my options atm. I would really love a manual and an RB26 conversion would be great too. I mean the easy way out would be to sell my current stagea and buy a series 2 but I really don't want to do that. And I figure that a front cut would have everything I need. Would i be able to use the GTR ecu and would I need to do anything to the ATTESSA system.

The car being off the road doent bother me so much but the age of the motor does. I suppose a lot of the places selling front cuts these days will actually start them up so you can hear them running and they also offer a warranty, what the conditions are is a different matter. I wouldn't be modifying the RB26 setup too much anyway. I would be happy with that. Was there a tread that Cruiseliner did about his RB26 conversion or are there any threads covering this. I did a search but didn't find anything.

Well I have been looking at the Auctions at Prestige Motorsport and there are a handful of manual series II's there starting bids below 580,000 yen hell there are even 260RS's with starting bids of 900,000 yen all of which are grade 4 or higher. So now I'm stuck in between a rock and a hard place. I love the stagea I've just bought not 3 weeks ago, perfect condition, dayz kit, lots of things allready done to it. But I A: am not a big fan of auto's and B: hate the fuel economy with the auto. I could sell it again (but I really don't want to) and import a series II manual but probably with no where near the amount that I already have done on my series 1. Or then I thought.....why not kill two birds with one stone. Buy a complete R32 GTR front cut, sell the RB25, box, computer and anything else that I can to make up for some of the cost. About $6000 depending where you go. Don't know how many have considered this option. However I don't know the ease of fitting the RB26 into the Stagea but at least with a front cut you have everything you need (inc front brakes too) and you can also sell what you don't use from the front cut so you will make up some of your money.

The "pressure sensor" is it a replacement for the AFM like a MAP sensor or something different. Is it a universal wiring harness or did you get specific model harnesses. Also how is it tuned, from what I know these are totally useless unless you either have the Profec E-01 or the PC software...

In that case a Greddy Emanage would probably be the go. I would also like a single unit but seeing as mine already came with the IEBC and DFA I am really just trying to get my fuel consumption under control atm so I will put in a SITC and maybe upgrade from there in the future

Hell no. Thats part of the reason I bought a Stagea. I spose all good things will eventually come to an end. There would of been a time when S13's and Skylines were rare on the road too

Sorry guys this is slightly off topic. I already have the DFA and IEBC and want to get a hold of a STIC. Any ideas how much a where from? Sorry again. But on topic I would like to keep my standard ECU and use piggy backs if possible just for the fact that no matter how good an aftermarket ECU is if your wanting to keep all factory functions (espically for auto's) then your best bet is to stay with the factory managment and bend it if possible.

See, they will do anything to anything over there. Totally impracticle but still sweet

It wouldn't surprise me if someone in Japan has actually done this to a real Stagea. Seen 180SX and R32 Utes. Would be pretty sweet.

Hey all, I was lucky to get some pretty descent stero equipment with my stag but the install on the doors need a bit of attention as they were vibrating and rattling a lot. There is already a DIY on the exact same method I used on Boost Crusing in there Tech section. So I won't go into pics or anything like that. Basically I just got a few spray tins of K&H underbody sound deadener and a 1ltr of the same stuff but it brushes on and is much thicker. After masking every this up I used the spray on on the doors themselves and also covered up some of the big holes with MDF. Doing about 3 coats also doing the stock plastic speaker mounts as well as spraying inside the door too (being careful not to get anything on the windows bits and pieces. Then I applied the brush on stuff to the back of the door skin and again did about 3 coats. This stuff is thick but spreads well. After letting them dry overnight I put it all back together. At first it didn't seem to make much difference but after about 2 days (this stuff must take a lot longer to cure than what the tin says) I have noticed a big change. In all but 2 tracks i've listened to so far haven't I heard any rattling or vibration. Much more up front bass. And a nice thump when I close the door. So now when I get around to it next I'm going to finish it off with some extra matting like Stinger Road Kill or Dynamat something like that just to eliminate all unwanted noise. I could have just done that first but I wanted to see what the cheaper option was going to provide first. I was pretty impressed with only spending $50 on supplies and bout 1/2 day labour on and off. And I believe after this I will have a better result from just matting alone. If by some chance you can't find the article on Boost Cruising then I did take pics with my phone camera which isn't half bad. P.S Your car will smell pretty bad for a while too but you get used to it. Its almost gone out of mine now after a couple of days.

I've got the jaycar IEBC set at 10 pound on high boost setting. With the stock (well I've got an R34GTT but close enough) intercooler and turbo I won't run any higher than this. I also doubt if I did I'd get much more power anyway. As it is even though my guage only just flickers about the 10 at times I still hit boost cut when I push hard between gear changes (auto). i'm not having a real fun time with fuel atm as most people here will tell you. If I can get it over 300k's city i'm doing well atm. But I've only just bought it and am now learning how to drive it for better economy (= baby it). on my current tank i'm at 70k's and in between 3/4 and full so its looking better already.

Just car $936 per year with rating 1 protection. $300 excess, $350 age and $400 imoirt / mods. So $1050 all up if i stack it to put it simple.

I personally want to make it RWD just for the fun of seeing what the stagea is like in RWD. So it shouldn't do any damage with the front driveshaft off and the gearbox internals still running. Has anyone done this on a regular basis. If so is everything still running OK. And I'm assuming its a simple matter of dropping the front shaft then bolting it back up when your done. Nothing else needs to be done to the ATTESSA system.

Ok thanks guys. SKA I did try to use the search but it wasn't working. Kept telling me to try again in 30secs because of flood controll or something like that. I tried for ages and gove up posting this thread. I haven't even tried the centre diff lock yet and can't really see when I would. fergo308 let us know how you go with the ATTESSA control module. I love the AWD but would still like to get it into RWD on occasion.

Hey all, Just wondering if the Stagea can SAFELY be run in RWD like the GTR's by removing the ATTESA fuse or something similar. Or is it much harder / impossible to do like removing front drive shafts like the R34 GTR. And also how many of you have played around with the AWD lock button on the dash. I'm assuming that all it does is lock it into full time AWD. Noticed much difference???? Thanks again Josh

Gotta love the dayz kit.

Well unless your looking at either buying a 260RS, lucky enough to find a manual series 2 or are planing on doing a manual conversion then I wouldn't worry about dropping your clutch as their mainly auto's. As for handling then (this depends on suspension condition / setup) they don't handle too bad at all for a wagon. I'm a little biased seeing as i've never driven a stock example (I've had mine a couple of weeks now and it came with the suspension setup explained in the group buy thats on here atm minus the shocks / springs). I find it handles much better than some other imports I've driven. And they still go pretty hard with just a few easy mods considering their 1650kg +. The only time I notice the extra girth in braking. I believe nissan could have done much better here for the spirited driver. But once again thanks to SK and a few others here thats pretty easy to sort out now. I'm looking at doing this before I do anything else. As for the NEO in the series 2 it does make more power (there will be a thread somewhere here that tells u how much) and main differences are variable valve timing...some one else can finish that for me As for audio questions I'm just starting to explore that now. But all in all a great ride and unlike arse holes not every one has a stagea which is also a plus

Yeah I know the feeling. I'll let you know. I know they looked good on the car but I'm making those brakes my main fix it at the moment. The car is running sweet otherwise. Probably going to put a full set of R33 GTS-T brakes on. If I can spare the cash and you've still got them I'll let you know.

Thought you were keeping those. :lol: How much were you looking to get for them