Mr_RS4

Yeah I paid $20K for my series 1 beginning 2006, spent $6000 last year one body kit, respray, timing belt, c.v's, fmic, safc and sitc....etc then have just spent another $6000 in the last couple of weeks on new brakes, M.V shift kit, splitfires, O2 sensor, SK Suspension Kit, HID's, new plumb back BOV and some other crap. So now have spent $32000 to date on it Could buy a 260RS for that money now. And considering the amount of work done to my car I'd get 11K maybe for it, so do you think I'm selling anytime soon????? or EVER for that matter

Speaking of pulsars I actually find less blind spots in my Stagea than my N13 Pulsar. But I've always hated hatch backs, there is always no vision between the hatch and the rear quater windows. And on an N13 thats quite a lot of space you can't see I actually find I see more out of the Stagea because of all the glass in the back, but I was also a courier driver for a couple of years and got used to having no vision out back or sides when carrying full loads etc... But like someone else said all cars have blind spots, ever driven the last model Ford Focus. My mates girlfriend has one and man they might have not even bothered with the pathetic piece of rear glass they put in those, and another mate has a brand new Mondeo XR5 and they have more blind spots than I could count on 2 hands

When my coils started to go it was very intermittant (spelling ) at first. This was about a year or so ago now, then got a little bit worse as the months went on, wait till the warmer weather comes back then you'll notice it Then just got to the stage where the car was chewing a lot of fuel (more than usual for a stagea) and even 1/2 throttle would cause break down in spark. Once the splitfires were in its been a dream to drive I've still got my factory coils, don't know which ones are stuffed though?

Yeah that was my bad, I was getting confused with the series 2 rs4s manual stageas not the rwd stageas.....oops

Will either be Rich and Retard or a missfire caused by old or incorrectly gapped plugs or one or more ignition coils are on thier way out. If your still running stock boost and as you say everything else on the car is dead stock I doubt it'll be R&R. I'd try a new set of plugs gapped at 0.8 and see if this fixes it and go from there. Can you say at what RPM this happens, I was having serious spark break down from about 3000rpm through to about 4500rpm if it even got that far. My coils were stuffed, fitted splitfires and its running better than it ever has. But I'd start with the cheap options first.

Ahhhh ok. Mine has been doing this for ages and I just stopped taking notice as nothing seemed to be affected. I had a feeling it might have been a rear C.V or something as the noise only have from the rear. Mind you it only does it when I'm reversing or just taking off in 1st under light throttle and then thats it, don't hear it again. Seems like a pretty easy fix then

There is some talk about RWD brakes in the Stagea Brake thread atm but don't think any of its conclusive yet. And afaik the RWD's use a fork setup like the GTR or 260RS in the back instead of the bush GTST type. And I think that the strut top hats or something need to be machined down a bit to fit as well, once again afaik. Try the yahoo auctions through import monster or slide and see if they have anything listed for RWD stageas. Might find something

Gotta say it.......USE THE SEARCH BUTTON. There are a million threads about this and they are listed in the "Stagea Parts Thread" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ist-t61606.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...;hl=spark+plugs http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...gs-t104405.html There that took me a couple of mins to find these previous threads amongst about 100 others. Trust me it will save you a good flamming And these would go for any RB25DET.

Nah all is good. Called Mike and he said he sent the sump gasket anyway and that the filter can actually be cleaned and reused. Needs to be cleaned with descent kero or petrol until it runs out clean and then can be reused. Now as long as it arrives today will be fitting this weekend.

As for the rear brake rotors I have just ordered a set from Dixcel in Japan through Japanparts.com. I just put up a post all about this here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&st=200 Go down to post #219 as I've added the links and how I ordered etc. They were shipped yesterday and I only paid for them Sunday night. And with the Auto issue, when you say 4th thats really the Overdrive but are you sure your not getting confused with the Torque converter lockup which can and probably does feel like another gear change which you might be confusing with 4th. When the car is cold it won't lockup until the Auto has reached a certain temp so it will feel like the car needs to go up one more (Mines like this every night on the way home from work). When travelling @ 60kms its pretty hard to keep it locked up as any light throttle movement will keep it on boost which won't allow it to lock, at that speed anyway. Its usually a lot easier to get it to lock up and stay that way over 80kms as longs as you use light throttle. Thats probably why you say it takes ages to change and why manual mode makes no difference as it wouldn't with the torque converter lockup. But if your really not sure take it to an Auto shop and get them to go over it. Good Luck with it. **P.S** I'm guessing thats your Stag in your avatar. Is that the one which was at the Xtreem something or other car yard on the magic mile in Moorooka. Looks exaclty the same, I was serioulsly looking at buying that when it was there Beautiful car too. Congrats on that

Should be getting my MV shift kit tomorrow and want to fit it on the weekend. I didn't think to get the service kit with it Now I know the Stagea uses the RE4R01A transmission like a heap of other Nissans Local and Imported here so is there just one generic kit (sump gasket and filter) or are they still vechicle specific. Anyone bought one of these before, Nissan job or a Repco etc. Thanks guys, never done the auto on this yet so don't know Josh.

Bad idea with this switch. Its fine for R32GTR's (and R32 GTS4's too I'd guess) where you can just pull a fuse or hook up a switch but any attessa system based on R33 upwards you need to remove the front drive shaft to run in RWD safley. When you just pull the fuse (or switch, same thing) there is still residual (spelling ) pressure in the system causing the clutch packs to sill engage which will cause them to burn out = expensive repair. For short amounts of time it'd be ok but there have been other forum members that have had this happen just on 2WD dyno runs. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong but pretty sure this is correct!

They're not car model specific but most go for the SAFC2. They're cheap second hand and you can still find some new. The Neo is also fine just more expensive. I've got the SAFC2 in my stagea.

Your kidding right. They were the first guys I tried last year and the price they quoted me was about 3 times that. Well it got fitted today anyway. Very friendly service and did a great job. Would recomend them again for sure (Novus that is )

Yes definatley as although they do come up they're still not easy to get. But get a Apexi SAFC while your at it. That way you'll be able to tune Fuel and Timing. Also when you do make changes on the SAFC it can have an effect on the timing also which can be dialed out with the SITC.

I was having the same problem. Started out minor last year some time and I just let it go. My fuel economy got worse, the idle got worse (espically on starting) and it got to the stage that any thing over half throttle and about 3000rpm it would shit itself. Today just installed a set of splitfires and new NGK Iridium (I've never had a problem with them at all). The car has never run this good since I've owned it. I'm back to running a 1.1mm gap (i've never been able to go higher than 0.8 but the old plugs were at 0.6) everthing from cold starting to idle and WOT are perfect. I'm keen to get it back on the dyno and tuned again now as when it was tuned last year you could see the break down of the coils badly on the chart about 4500rpm. upwards. Now I've remembered how shit the Auto's are in these things. Just as well I'll be recieving my MV shift kit this week But I could also be your fuel pump too. Lucky this wasn't the case for me. But I'm still going to do it anyway soon just as a precaution and for further mods as its an 11 year old pump now and its probably going to be getting weak. I'm going to get a Tomei kit. They're more expensive but come as a complete kit with everything you need and no modifying. Good luck with it. When you get it fixed you'll probably be surprised as to how much power the car has. I'd forgotten. :D

There you go knew someone on here would know

Ok well after a fair bit of a stuff around I am now going with Novus who are coming to my work tomorrow to supply and fit the windscreen for me. Has quoted $325 supplied and fitted which I think is amazing. I will post again tomorrow just to confirm thats what it actually cost when the jobs done. If you compare that price with my last quote posted above which was for the screen alone I think I know which ones the better deal so as long as they turn up I'll be happy. Sorry to say but for anyone else looking to replace a windscreen (in Brisbane at least) I would say to go to Novus instead of the other. Won't post it up here but PM me if you want the details. Will let all know tomorrow how it goes. Sure beats the quotes I was getting last year when it first happened.

Honestly I've never looked under a factory manual RS Four S to see if they have the usual GTST or 260RS style GTR subframe. I'm sure there has got to be someone on here that has. The difference is with the R33GTST subframe they use the eyehole bush type but the GTR subframe / hubs use a fork style setup for the rear shocks to mount. So yeah if you have the latter then you will need to get kits suited to the 260RS or if you have the usual GTST subframe then just the normal stagea kits. When the car gets here you'll know for sure. Just look at the rear shocks and see if they use a bush or a for type mounting at the bottom.

Couldn't give you any opinion on the coilovers as I have only ever had one set of Tein's in my old S13 and have never had anything to compare them with. You'll still be able to use the whiteline sway bars and as for the wheels as long as the rolling diameter is the same you shouldn't have any problems. Staggered width wheels should be fine just not staggered diameter. And like nick said if you do have the R33GTR sub frame you can use 260RS suspension kits as the normal stagea specific kits won't fit in the rear.

When all my parts get here I'm doing a complete brake overhaul on my series 1. The only thing I haven't sorted out is the brake shoes for the hand brake setup. Does anyone know the part numbers, availability and how easy they are to do, are they just like normal drum brakes just smaller? Never done them before. I've heard that they are the same for all skylines so would this apply to the stageas as well?

^^^Ignore that I forgot which thread I was in. Moved it to the brake section ^^^^

Also while I'm at it. When all my parts get here I'm doing a complete brake overhaul on my series 1. The only thing I haven't sorted out is the brake shoes for the hand brake setup. Does anyone know the part numbers, availability and how easy they are to do. Never done them before?

If your talking about real time mapping I thought a seperate daughter board was needed. But I have no idea. Factory remapping is new to me.