Mr_RS4

I'd say yes but couldn't confirm. I would think either R33GTST or R32GTR would fit, but like I said cannot confirm it??? And I'm pretty sure Series 2 RS4 brakes aren't the same as R34GTT brakes either.

I think its going to be a harsh ride 10k font 8k rear, but I'm no suspesion expert either. Others here would be better qualified but I also know what they're going to say You should read what others have said about running jap spec coil overs on stageas here in Aus. Some ended up swapping them out for something else. If your set on coilovers I'd look at some of the Tein Wagon series, they have lower rates which would be better for street use I think.

Tein make 3 different setups that I know of for the stagea. I was looking to go down this path but so many people have recomended SK's kit that I decided to go with that. Would rather go with something thats been tried and tested here on Australian roads. You've got to remember that the Stagea is no 1400Kgish S13 either. And although you could technically buy a mixed set of coilovers (GTR front and GTST rear) from any brand like has been said in this thread many times the front will be ok more than likley but the valving and spring rates for the rear will not. If the only thing your looking to do is get your car as low as you can go if you order the kit off SK you can get even more circlip grooves machined in but you'll sacrafice handling. One other forum member had this done if you read back in the first couple of pages of the Suspension Group Buy Thread. And as for the G4 coilovers from Justjap I don't think they do anything stagea specific. Look at nengun.com and you'll find a few sets for the stagea.

When I had a justjap kit on my 180 it used a different filter but I cant remember what it was, but I'd say with the Greddy kit it would probably use the skyline filter. Just remember you'll need a little more oil than usual (not much, not as much as if you were adding a cooler too) 5L should still cover it.

No worries happy to help as finding rear rotors has been a pain in my arse this last week so hope this helps others.

Ok for starters it confusing, which front bar are you after. If your car is the one in the second pic (considering it matches your advatar) then its a Nismo front bar. I have the full Nismo kit on mine. Nismo copies are easy to get a hold of. I got mine off AMS on this forum but Monkey Warehouse / DMD here in Brisbane supply them so call them. If its the one of the other 2 pics your looking for no idead but look up WGNC34 on www.importmonster.com under front areo and you might be lucky, but freight will be expensive and you'll have a wait. Unless you wanna fork out mega bucks for EMS shipping. As for the power fc and other questions PLEASE do a search and don't be lazy as many topics have been covered here on this. But I'll tell you this....its not as easy as your thinking Good luck.

These are not a regular Japanparts.com item. I found these myself and gove the parts numbers and site to Koji at JP.com and he set up a special item for my sale, it was a strage part number and I'd never find it again on the JP.com site. These are Dixcel rotors P/N: 325 2018. Here is the PDF link to there whole JDM catalogue http://www.dixcel.co.jp/list/rotor_list/domesticcar_r.pdf its long but it has series 1 and 2 listings for both front and rear rotors and pads of varying types. the 325 2018 number is a base number for series 1 rear rotors then you add the letters on the end for what type of rotor you want (eg. PD is the sports rotor but is basically a OEM style rotor) and so on. Go to www.dixcel.co.jp to find out what types of rotors they have and then just add the 2 letters to the part number, email this info with the details of your car and website to Japanparts.com and they will do the rest. I just paid by paypal and it ended up cheaper than 2 OEM nissan rotors so I'm happy. 10 to 15 days isn't too bad either for stagea specific rotors. They are very quick to reply an are extreemly helpful even on weekends. Any other info you need just PM me. *Edit* I should add I ended up just going with the PD or sports non slotted rotor only because my budget for the car atm is pretty tight as I'm doing so much to the car but they definatley do a slotted rotor and from when I was pricing rear 32GTR rotors from DBA it was still going to work out cheaper to by the Dixcel slotted and shipped to my door and no maching required.

Yeah I've just ordered a set of these off ebay for my series 1. He had both series up for auction. Its a couple of weeks before I do my brakes anyway so it seemed an easy way to go for me. My DBA slotted fronts are on there way from Justjap and my slotted rears are being ordered through japanparts.com right now....by the way I think a few guys on here have used japanparts.com before but they have been really helpful. I just gove them the URL of the part I wanted and they have sorted it all out for me. Also have to recomend Maltech for the braided lines too. Steve has been very helpful and they will be here on Tuesday, only ordered them yesterday and you get quite a choice of colours etc....And man he must be up late because I work night shift and have been ordering all my parts online relying on emails and so forth and he always replies straight away even after 10 to 11pm.

Considering the amount of talk in various threads that was going on here 12 to 24 months about the emanage unit most of us have done the home work in fitting one to a stagea and some had even tried it. But people were having a lot of issues with blowing coil packs or worse and finding installers and or tuners was not easy. The safc and sitc were easy to install and tune items that were worth a lot less at the time like what was mentioned above. At least with the chip your not relying on voltage benders to tune the car you retain all your stock ecu functions and you can actually change the closed loop maps which is something even the safc has no control over, which is something that does bother me a little because like Tangles said about using the safc and sitc to tune the car if there were any problems with the chip if the map problem is when the ecu is running in closed loop then the safc isn't going to make much difference. But I believe toshi will re write the chip if there are any problems. I'm still looking to this as my personal best option to tune the Stagea. Even if it were manual I'd still look at this option as I don't plan continuing upgrades that are going to require a new chip to be written each time. I will do what I want to the car and then do this and that will be it.

I've also been speaking with Toshi, very helpful guy. I'm doing a shite load of work on the Stagea atm though and unfortunatley this just ran a little over budget for me right now but was definatley going to do it in a couple of months once the wallet has recovered. Please let us know how you go as this is something I definalely want to do. I've also got the SAFC and SITC combo so if it needs fine tuning I'm already set. Will be watching this thread for sure If you do a search for him on this SAU you'll find there are already quite a few happy customers that have had his real time tune, I was going to drive interstate and do it that way (still cheaper than a PFC and dyno time) but like Tangles said he can't source a daughter board to do this but was still quite confident that he could write a chip for me. Factory ROM tuning was and probably still is quite popular in Japan.

I must also recomend these guys. I've been putting mine off (and its pretty bad) because of cost etc.... Called them up this morning and is getting me a brand screen for $275 will be picking it up on saturday. Anyone know how much fitting is roughly alone???

Yeah ok chuckie I was talking more about stagea specific rotors from stock to slotted etc... I KNOW how easy it is to get pads I've done it before. Rotors not so easy, yes yes before you say anything S14 DBA's work for the front and I'm ordering a set as I speak but rears are something different all together if you want something other than stock that bolts straight on. And besides that it was only a suggestion as to the variety you can get from Japan if you want to....!!

Also on a side note I jumped on Importmonster.com and found heaps of different rotors, pads etc for both series Stagea's on the yahoo japan auctions. EMS shipping isn't too bad and at least they are all Stagea specific. Might have to wait a bit but for all the stuffing around here in Australia it might be worth it????

Thanks for that, I saw your post above but didn't know if you were talking about front or rear rotors. Now while I'm at it, has anyone else tried SK's method of using DBA R32GTR slotted rotors for the rear with the 30mm OD machining. I don't mind going down this route but want to know if it ended up cracking or not as I haven't seen any updated information for this. And finally does anyone know a good DBA distributer in Birsbane that they've used to get these rotors in. Thanks again guys.

Does anyone have the part numbers for standard series 1 rear rotors. And are they only available through nissan or are there aftermarket options.

exactly right^^^^^ It helped my afr's at higher loads and helped with power (made 160kw at all 4 with just zorst and fmic 10psi) but fuel is no better really. I'm going to do a manual conversion soon and go with an aftermarket ecu. Hoping this will help.

Don't be too surprised about worn tyres front and rear causing pulsing problems. I've had huge problems with this in the past. It all started when my front tyres were very worn on the inside (bad alignment and excessive camber, still runs a little to much but they're wearing much better now) so I got new tyres on the front and left the rears as they still had plenty of tread left. But the car didn't like this one bit, after about 60kmph it would jump and pulse around. After trying different tyre pressures I swapped the front and back around and bingo fixed the problem but then as the fronts (old rears) wore out I put new tyres on the front (there wasn't much time in between the first and second set of tyres) so essintially I had 4 new tyres of the same size (or so I thought and it was according to the lables on the sides of the tyres). Although I had the same size tyres they were different brands, and the same problem came back so I tried the swap trick again. But as I was swapping the tyres around I put them side by side and you could actually see a difference, not a huge one but it was there, I guess just different ways of making the tyres (there would have been no more than a month - month 1/2 betweeen the 2 sets). And it fixed the problem once again and the tyres are wearing fine now and no more shudder or pulsing. So my suggestion would be to try swapping your tyres around when you get the alignment done and see how you go!!!

Pfft yeah 4 little fu__ing hard to get undone bolts I tried it one afternoon a few weeks ago. It looks easy and it is IF you can get them undone. Mind you I was being lazy and didn't jack the car up as much as I should have to get under there properly for better leverage so I'll have to give it another go one day. I am just curious what it would be like

Yeah I was also going to call bullshit on only 6 bolts as the first thing I counted was the strut tops there are 6 there alone. I know its not difficult to drop the whole front subframe but still nuts to that to just get a turbo off. I mean its one bolt on a heat shield...and people winge about Z32 300ZX's being tight.

The coil packs that Just Jap are selling are only for series 1 RB25's at the moment unless they have released them for the series 2 RB25's. Which is really stupid imo as I was just about to get some. Better than the $500+ for splitfires if they're as good. What is the difference anyway between them....?

Well yeah if you wanted to keep the AWD then your only option for more capacity is to build an RB25/30. Would be the easiest way too I guess. But seeing as this thread is about fuel economy I would like to know wether having the extra low down power and off boost torque would save you on fuel as you shouldn't have to use as much throttle to get the car going. And I'm not talking about hanging huge turbo's off the side with massive injectors and fuel systems etc etc. Maybe just a similar set up to what a lot of already got. Say full exhaust, highflowed turbo or something sensible (internal gated, bolt on job), fmic, fuel reg, pump, either piggy back or (if you went for a manual conversion at the same time) stand alone ecu and filter. With a good tune and moderate boost. Obviously there is still going to be some difference between those that keep the auto and those that don't. This would only be worthwhile if you were planning to keep the car for some time (which I am) or if you have a future scope for big mods. As I would imagine building the engine would cost a bit, although if you just built it stock maybe not. Personally I don't plan on the car making that much power to justify internals being done. But I've heard that the adaptor plates for the sump etc are expensive and that apparently its easier to use a RB26 head (again expensive). Don't know how accuate either of those are. And is a 500cc difference going to make that big a difference. I've never driven a RB25 or 26 /30 combo before so I don't know. A 4.5ltr V8 would definately make a difference but don't know about fuel economy

^^^^Wasn't actually serious about going ahead with such a conversion. Just pointing out that I think the stagea needed something with more CC's. But you could recoupe some of the cost by selling the gear that comes out of the car. To tell the truth I would probably still do it even if fuel economy didn't improve as I just think that the extra capacity could make it a better car to drive. But I guess you could just build a RB25/30 or RB26/30 combo too for that matter which would probably be a better option. But I just wanna hear a stagea V8 lol

What have you got as far as ECU. I'm guessing since your using a fuel cut defender then you've still got the factory ECU with a piggy back like a SAFC or something. Could be many things. With just that info to go on I would guess maybe factory ecu hitting R&R, ignition break up of some sort, crook fuel pump. Whatb happens after 3000rpm and with more throttle. Does it get worse, better???

I've been giving this fuel economy issue a lot of thought since I bought the car.... I'm starting to think that the poor 2.5ltr RB25 just isn't enough motor to pull the S1+2 Stagea's around. Sure when the foots down they go quite well considering its a 2.5 6cyl pulling around that much weight but in normal light to medium throttle it just feels almost laggy until it builds up pace almost forcing you to use more throttle to get it going then easing off which is why the economy is so shit. The thing is I still love Stageas and I still think they are a really great package for a wagon. I mean with the right kit, wheels and suspension setup they look sexy and handle very well too but IMO as far as the powerplant goes it might just be an old school case of more cubes is better..... Why didn't Nissan come up with the VQ series motors 10 years ago Speaking in theory I wonder about the difficulties of fitting a 2JZ or even a VH45DE (if I got it right) or the soarer's V8 would go. Forgetting straight away about keeping the AWD or about being a patriot to Nissan just find a cost effective way to get more cubes (and still preferably being turbocharged) into the stagea and maybe ditching some weight along the way. May end up with a lighter car, with more power and HOPEFULLY more economy. And maybe an easier manual conversion too! This is just one of many ideas i've had floating around in my head and is a bit on the extreem side but I haven't ruled it out!

Well I don't really see the injector cleaner doing anything in regards to fuel economy. I mean how is a dirty injector / injectors going to make fuel economy worse if fuel is already having trouble being squirted through? Sure it can be dangerous as far as your engine running lean goes and it will probably sound or run a bit rough but we'd have to be talking about some pretty clogged injectors. Needless to say I still run a bottle through from time to time but I don't do it for fuel economy and haven't noticed any improvements from doing so either. Also "IMO only" I haven't noticed much difference from using different fuels either. Have tried all the 98oct blends out there (optimax, ultimate, vortex, mobil 8000, and the new shell one....forget whats its called atm). I tend to stick to BP where ever possible as thats what I've used for years but now my nearest station is a mobil I mainly use 8000. I've even had to resort to normal premium before when on a trip and it did great on that so go figure. Lets face it most of us aren't running a level of tune thats going to be affected by what fuel we use, unless of couse you try regular unleaded or something like that. Considering the Stageas stock ECU is detuned compared to the R33 (from what I've read) and most would be running around the 10 psi mark on stock turbos then I don't see different premium fuels making much difference, unless you had some sort of programable ECU or piggy back and actually filled up with each different fuel and then put it on the dyno and tuned it for each one. Then you might see different results.