DLUD3R

Ahhh, I can't afford a tune at the moment and I really need my car running... Looks like i'm on the hunt for a stock AFM! What are my chances of finding one by Wednesday?

Hey guys, not too sure if i've got this in the right place, but we'll see how it goes. I own a R32 GTR, and am about to replace the stock Air Flow Meters (which are playing up) with a set of Bosch Z32 AFM's. Question is, once the new AFM's are in will the car have to be tuned, or can I simply reset the ECU and have it "learn" again? I'm not the most mechanically savvy guy in the world, so I apologise if this is a stupid question. I've had conflicting opinions so far with my mechanic saying "I wouldn't be in a rush to get it tuned" and a friend (who's fairly knowledgeable with the GTR) saying "... it will run too lean and go boom". So, any help on the subject would be fantastic Thanks guys.

Purely for the sake of having an answer present for anyone with a similar problem, I have the result. $2000 later (splitfire coils, ngk platinum sparks, fuel pump) ... the car finally plays up in front of my mechanic. 10 minutes later it's discovered that the problem is with the Air Flow Meters. They're running 2 very different voltages. Yay. What a waste of money, haha.

Yeah, sparks and coils were my second guess. Had NGK Platinums and Splitfire coils put in, but problem still occured. I did notice that sometimes when turning the car on (before starting engine) you could hear the fuel pumping noise didn't go for as long as usual. Also when restarting the car after it died you couldn't hear the fuel pump at all. Fuel pump was my first guess at the issue, but i know nothing about car mechanics and everyone told me otherwise. Don't have a chance to take it in anywhere for another week or so, so it's all specualtion at the moment. Thanks for suggesting fuel pump or I wouldn't have even suggested my mech have a look at it!

My car (R32 GTR) has the same problem, every so often it will just lose power and if I take it out of gear the revs will drop and the car will die. When it's having one of it's fits, it does exactly as you described, the rest of the time it just feels like crap to drive. Havn't had a chance to take it to a mechanic to suss the problem out yet, although it's getting worse and i'm probably doing damage just driving it around. Let me know how you go and what sort of cost you're up for, hopefully i'm in the same boat and not worse

So, $1400 later i've got my car back and it seems to be going alright. I'm pretty happy, it's running smoother than ever, and sounds good. Maybe all it needed was a good service in the first place? Had all my oils changed, NGK Platinum spark plugs, Splitfire coils, so shouldn't have any more issues there. Now i just need to pay off the monsterous debt i've racked up with this car, and then it's time for some mode, woo!

My rims aren't in the best condition (from before I bought it, I haven't damaged anything - YET!). Going in for a fix up + service tomorrow. Should be all good and raring to go by tomorrow night, woo! I'm excited, hehehe.

Yeah, I did a bit of a search on GTR register for similar problems. Looks like it might be spark plugs and coilpacks. The mods will come over time, i'm kinda researching and saving money so I can buy the best. Currently on the top of my list (apart from NGK Iridiums and Splitfire Coilpacks, both of which seem to have good reviews) is the Fujitsubo Super Ti exhaust, followed closely by some new rims. I like the idea of some nice dished rims (currently looking at Work Meister, but open to suggestions) but some of my friends are against the dished look. As far as a decent mechanic goes, the first guy I took it to is my most trusted mechanic. Taken every car i've owned to him (now 4 in total) and he's always done well. He's very picky, which is why I like him. Although given what happened yesterday, I think i've found a new workshop. I've heard good things about them, just never gone to them before because i've never really had a performance car. Tell you what though if they can get my car all fixed up and running nicely, they've earned a customer for life. I love my car

Ok, so took it back to the dealer, who was pretty good about it. He basically said, if it's not my fault, they'll fix it up. Left it with them for an hour, they called me back in and did the compression test in front of me. 150 on all 6 cylinders. Called my mechanic, he said if the compression is up again then it's fine. Very possible it was a carbon build-up that has since broken off. Took it straight to a completely different guy after the dealer. Gave him a description of the problem, he was under the hood for 30 seconds (literally) and found split vacuum hose and the idle revs were wound too high. Not necessarily what was causing the problem, but I figure it seems like he knows what he's doing, he might be the one who can fix it up. So I will definitely be organising a check-up/service with him as soon as possible. At the end of the day, as long as the engine is ok, i'm happy

Mmm, i've seen 2nd hand RB26 for around $4,500. Thing is, I know my kms are genuine, and I have the logbooks to prove it, so i'd rather rebuild with Nismo parts or something (havn't done any research into engine bits yet) and stick with my current engine if possible. Any engine is gonna need a rebuild at some stage, so if I can't get the dealer to do it, might as well do it now and do it properly. Thanks for humoring me though guys, I figured my chances were pretty slim anyway. Will let you know for sure. Here's the car by the way, just in case anyone's interested...

Well it's a 1992 R32 GTR, with 114xxx kms. So I guess i'm out of luck? EDIT: Just to answer all the questions - I'm in VIC, paid just about $20k on the dot, and i'm running to the car to grab the documents right now...

Hey guys. About 3 weeks ago I bought a car from a dealer, who I assumed was trustworthy because I couldn't find any bad reports. The car was running fine, beautiful condition, logbooks and everything and i'm the first owner since it's been in Australia. Started having some problems with it not even a week later, and thinking it was just a fuel pump issue, I let it go (I wasn't gonna sweat the dealer over a couple of hundred dollars). Long story short, had it checked out (2 weeks after the purchase, with only 1 week warranty from the dealer) and it is suffering from low compression and needs a rebuild. Now, I understand I should have had the car checked out before I bought it, I admit it's my own stupid fault. However, being as the rebuild is going to cost me a few grand which I don't have, i'm wondering if I have any leg to stand on here as far as getting the dealer to either fix it or at least chip in a bit towards a rebuild? (hah, I know) I've organised to take the car back to the dealer tomorrow so they can have a look, but i'd like to be semi prepared. Does the dealer have any legal obligation at all to fix the car, given that the damage couldn't have been caused in the 2 weeks i'd had it? Isn't there some law about a product having to be of merchantable quality? Mind you, I drove this thing like a granny, didn't even get to have any fun with it End of the day, I know I f-ed up. The dealer told me there were no problems with the engine and I bought it. I'm just hoping to weasel my way out of paying for a rebuild Any help would be much appreciated.

Hi guys! Did a quick search and couldn't really find anything, so I thought i'd start a topic. I just recently (i.e Yesterday, lol) picked up my '92 GTR from the dealer and i'm already curious about fitting cruise control. I imagine a cruise control unit isn't specific to any particular models of cars, so I was wondering whether it would be possible to hook up cruise control to the 2 radio control buttons mounted on the dash (AM/FM and Tune i think they are). Obviously the stock head unit has been replaced, and these buttons no longer function so I figured I could put them to good use. From what I read, the R33's had cruise control, perhaps I could find and R33 control unit at a wreckers and take it somewhere to be fitted? Is my theory along the right lines, or is CC a lot more complicated than that?

Mmmm, having done a bit of reading on how everything works, it seems stupid to try to change it at all. I'm gonna have to take one for a test drive when I get closer to a purchase (have a small loan that needs to be paid off first), but i'm pretty much sold. The challenge will be to find a fairly stock one in decent condition.

Well I was only really referring to enabling/disabling the whole attessa system (turning the GTR into a constant RWD), but turning it into a constant 4WD sounds more interesting... Would permanently enabling the front wheels have any disadvantages as far as traction or the genaral handling are corncerned? Power output would also be the same, only spread over all 4 wheels, yes? Maybe I should stop pestering people on forums and go do some research myself, hehe

Awesome. So it really just looks at multiple factors and enganges the front wheels when it thinks it's necessary. I was thinking about test-driving one, but i'm not buying that soon and I don't like to waste people's time. Anyway, thanks for the help guys, I think i've got it understood now. Yay.

Ok, i've done a bit more reading, just to make sure I understood it... By default, the GT-R will send the torque to the rear wheels only? When the ATTESA ecu detects slip on one of the rear wheels, it then re-distributes some torque to the front wheels to keep the car under control (Thus creating 4WD)? Hate to be a pest, but I was having one of those stupid little arguments about it and somehow we ended up with $20 on the table, so I need to be 100% sure ^_^

Hey guys, i'm looking into perhaps buying an R32 GTR later on in the year, and i'm currently looking into what's available and what I should be looking for. I've had a look at some ads and seen the term 'suicide switch' thrown around. Now, as far as I know (not very far, but still) the GTR's are constant 4WD. There wasn't much information, but the general gist I got was that this particular GTR had a switch where you could switch between full 4WD and RWD. My previous understanding was that it was possible to stop the power going to the front wheels, but only by stuffing around with some of the drivetrain mechanics. I don't want to waste too much of your time with newb questions, so in short, what i'm looking to confirm is: - The R32 GTR is constant 4WD? - Is it possible (with the right electronics knowledge) to build in one of these 'suicide switches' that allows you to manually enable/disable the front wheels at will? Thanks