Zappn

try some wd40 if you have it lying around, breaks down alot of sticky shit.

Anyone correct me if I'm wrong but: 1-Way: Only locks up under acceleration 2-Way: Locks up equally on acceleration and decceleration. 1.5 way: Locks up harder under accel than decell.

Love to see the stig in it.

[Deleted by PranK] - No chatting / Price Arguing in the FS sections!

What dark said. Where did you buy it and does it still have warranty?

I will never understand why people need to have their car type on their number plate. I'd just spend the money on mods

What about those shrinky things you put in the oven ?

26k Prices have dropped alot over the past year.

thinking the little light is a traction control or a torque split light, goes off everytime the wheels would be up in the air, around corners and under accel

They don't need to RnR as they run rich all the time

Got any pics of the new Neo tuyen? The computer generated ones they use for marketing are pretty useless for working out how big the thing is

Do you have a picture of the lights? Next to my adjuster theres 2 blanks. Maybe it's an aftermarket job and the pressure plate or it's connector is loose/missing.

You're awesome

And some 3rd party fire and theft insurance

Knock sensors are reactive. Sure when the go off the ecu will retard the timing all that stuff but first you need to have the damage causing knock happen. It's costs less than 8% to go from 91 to 98 and more importantly less than 3% more to go from 95 to 98. That 3% difference will EASILY be made up in better fuel economy and lower service costs. Running on 91 is plain stupid, you'd need to run the car for 10 years on 91 to make up the cost of getting a rebuild. I see 98 ron the same as insurance, if you can't afford it then you can't afford the car. edit: removed over exageration

I think the rule has recently changed. I got mine done last october and the wires were cut in a way that they're basically destroyed but by the sounds of recent posts people are getting them completely intact.

Both have a tab on the side, push it in and pull.

I think it was the restrictor in the hose causing too much boost. Sits at around 8psi when giving it a bit and goes to about 10psi when flooring it.

Installed mine today and have been testing for about 2 hours I just can't get the boost down on it, it's currently pushing around 12 psi at about 90% throttle. I've got the bolt in just enough so that I can see the spring only just move through the little hole. I'm after about 9 psi. I thought it could be a leak as the tube connections weren't so great so I used some zip ties and they're tight as now. Heres some pics, does everything look okay? It's a 34. One of the lines going into the solenoid goes to what I think is the BoV line, the other is blocked off with a screw. The connection on the bottom of the controller goes to the nipple coming out of pipe that leads from the turbo to the intercooler. The connection on the side of the controller goes to the wastegate actuator. As far as I can tell it's all setup correctly, it just doesn't let the wastegate see enough pressure. In the line coming from the turbo there is a brass fitting inside the tube, starting to wonder if this could be dropping pressure.

Installed mine today and have been testing for about 2 hours I just can't get the boost down on it, it's currently pushing around 12 psi at about 90% throttle. I've got the bolt in just enough so that I can see the spring only just move through the little hole. I'm after about 9 psi. I thought it could be a leak as the tube connections weren't so great so I used some zip ties and they're tight as now. Heres some pics, does everything look okay? It's a 34.

it's to the left of the hood lever. It's a cover with a clip on one edge.

Just got it back from Mettams in morley, $595 to get split dump +cat installed and catback made up. Sounds great at idle but omfg it's so loud under acceleration. Going to have to get a resonator or something.

Castrol R is now called Edge I think. Currently have Castrol R 10-60 in mine, seems pretty good. Using Mobil1 5-50 next change in a few weeks though.

My halogens are just glued inside the original headlights. If you don't manage to get a compliance headlight kit talk with your complaincer and work out if it's legal to remove the headlights before delivering the car to them. Mine were effectively destroy because legally they have to, I just got to keep the left overs. They probably can be repaired but I don't know if anything is missing from them as I don't have the instructions they used to remove them.

My factory xenons are still sitting at home. If I knew how they were originally installed I'd probably do it as the compliance halogens are dim even compared to other halogens. I don't think the compliance ones cost all that much, maybe $120?