widebody32

I am after some RB26 HKS 280 deg with roughly 11.8lift cams. I will accept others but have to be standard base circle or come with buckets to suit. You can either pm me or alternately on 0422214621 and ask for Julian

You will usually pay more for the name brands as they are made for Jap market so they are a direct fit due to most people want to fit them themselves because workshops are very dear on labour. Most good exhaust shops can make an exhaust to make the same power and last as long as the name brand stuff and you will probably pay between $600 and $1000 depending on what material you use and what cat

Welcome to the forums, congrats on one of the best(and worst due to the money you'll spend) cars to buy for its price tag.

If you are after an exhaust that will last the longest then stainless steel is the best as mild steel will rust after a while due to the condensation in the exhaust. The best way to go is to go and see an exhaust shop. I have seen a few good results from City exhaust, and Roadway and they are cheap compared to one quote from a certain "EXHAUST shop" in mitchell(which we wont name. Wink") which was over double the price of every other shop. Tell them that you want it to be legal noise DB and the best flowing and they will be able to make one for your purpose(make sure you get it in writing that it is within specs and that way if you get pulled over and fined you can put it back on them to fix it. By law you can not have any adjustable devices on your exhaust like butterfly's or adj tips so steer clear if you want it legal. For catylytic convertors go for a metal substrate style as they will last the longest and flow the best use one that is the same size as your exhaust or larger and for sizing of the exhaust go for 3 1/2" and make sure the pipe straight of the turbo flares up from the turbo size directly into the size exhaust you are getting as once the exhaust gas leaves the turbo it cools very rapidly and the gas expands, in doing so the gas slows down in speed so by going bigger it will keep the air speed up. Hope this helps

If you have an aftermarket boost controller then you can get rid of the standard solenoid and just cable tie the wiring away. I just did a engine bay clean up for trooper on his s2 r33 gtst. He has posted up some pics in the nsw forum if you want to check it out. It may give you some ideas on how to do it.

Even if you buy a cheaper boost controller you can have 4 settings on most as setting one: boost controller off (normal boost 7psi)setting 2: boost controller on about 10psi setting 3: 14psi and setting 4: scramble mode for overtake 16psi, but you can use your own settings for what boost you want to run. Always get your boost setup either on the dyno or on the street with an air fuel ratio meter as the more boost you put in means you are putting more air more air needs more fuel and also with higher boost there is a chance of detonation which can be caused by a number of things including ignition timing too high,bad fuel,high compression ratio due to boost or lean fuel ratio. It may cost a little more but if your engine goes you will be up for ten times that amount. Also buy the best controller you can afford as they they will have a tighter control on the boost curve, and the upside is it gives you room to go higher in the boost if you want to later on.

Due to constant upgrades i have a few parts i will be selling and thought i would offer them to you guys first. 2X K&N filters 4" mount have only been on for one dyno test due to upgrading to matching blue ones $120 the pair 1 x set Jun 266 deg 9.6 lift cams inlet and exhaust with matching springs retainers and buckets. These are direct fit no head machining needed and are perfect for low to midrange power. Max power by 8300 which is perfect for street performance as normal rb26's rev limit at 8250 dependent on which ecu you have. These are still in my engine and the only reason for sale is to upgrade to 280 deg cams $1000 ono Will add other parts as i go as i have a ross harmonic balancer i will be replacing and some standard parts If you are interested just pm me or ring me on 0422214621

Hi Jayce, Only just saw my copy yesterday. Ignition dvd want to run an article too but i'm not sure i can handle the interview as it all seems a bit w*nky to me. If anyone wants their copy autographed just let me know. Haha! just kiddin

So what time are we meeting? Don,t mind getting there early.

Either Meguiars or Auto glym are all i use. My friend spoke to the organiser this morning and he said to be there for 8 as then you can stake your own area. If its too early for some of you maybe the early risers want to meet at 7.45 and we can make sure we have an area big enough to fit all of us together.

Hey SL33KY, Sorry its taken me so long to get back but i have been in Tasmania. If its on Sunday i will definitely come. SL33KY Terminal Baconer Frink Donnan Kabala (now known as S T A R 3 3) Supadan Leech a20089 1JRocket Rumble CeJay ib6ub9 Dereck (Fifth Gear Motorsports zooee (Robert) r33skyflyin GT-PASSAGE TeeJay Widebody32 ozR32gtr (Tentative) SupaFly Skyline (Tentative) So we're meeting at 8 at the museum?

Yeah i think the afm style power fc is a lot nicer to drive with and you'll get better fuel economy too.

I have used both systems and they both have good and bad points. If you want great driveability then go the a/f meter type as with the six throttles on a djetro style it is not so much the idle that plays up but more so the map at about 3000 as it uses the same load point at about 3000 at say 2in hg as it does at say 3000 and just coming on boost and so causes a stumble at certain throttle positions. But if you are after the most power and can put up with this then it will make more power with the djetro. As for tuning it is about the same to tune a djetro as it is a standard one and only cost me $50 more to have mine tuned but you will have to go to Sydney to get the best results

It depends what you want to do with your car. If you only want up to 350kw at the wheels then you can use the green label r33 gtst a/f meters. If you want over 350 then go the z32's as they have more resolution, What this means is it takes more air to max out the 5 volt peak that a/f meters use. I haven't had much to do with the nismo ones but if they are 65mm then the other two options would be a better choice and i dare say a lot cheaper. Both a/f meters will fit the standard rubber hoses they are just tight going in. The air pod pipe will need to be changed as the four bolt flange is obviously bigger on the 80mm ones. Also if you have a power fc then you can change the settings in the computer for both gtst and z32 so that you can drive it to get tuned.If its still the standard ecu then it will need a new tune burned for it Hope this helps

What you need to use is "Skydrol" it is used on Aircraft hydraulics and is very nasty stuff, once it goes on it strips the paint and etches into the metal so it cannot be painted over unless it is acid cleaned or sand blasted.If you like i still have some contacts at Qantas. Haha (just a thought)

It definitely wasn't me. The only guy i asked whether he was right was a guy who said he wanted to buy the car and then proceeded to stuff me around while i,m lined up in the super cruise and started ripping at my seats and fuel cell to see if they were bolted down. I politely told him it was not the time or place to be yanking at stuff as i was in the final in the morning and didn't want anything broken, and if he was serious he could organise to do that sort of stuff after the finals. I am sorry he got that attitude but i get a lot of so called friends that hang around it and pretend that its theirs. If your friend wants to find out anything about it he can just pm me and i will tell him all he needs to know and send pics.

Nice to meet you guys, would have liked to have stayed. Oh well next time i'll bring someone who's into cars.

Will probably make my first appearance. What time and where do you guys meet

Thankyou for your valued input, it is so nice to get some positive feedback from someone intelligent like yourself. The car in question has been fully built by myself and has made to date 727.5hp and counting on pump fuel and took out this years Summernats 6cyl turbo class and also Horsepower heroes 2nd runner up over all categories. I am not a cheque book racer and enjoy doing it myself. Some people like it some don't, but at least i can say that i did it myself and didn't just buy someone elses car and call it my own. If you would like any advice on where to go to get stuff done please don't hessitate to ask

I have entered at the nats, entered last year didn't have any probs you just have to stay away at night and don't go round the back road later on.

If its the one at the front then it shouldn't be too hard to do in car. There is a Mobile guy called capital thread repair that could come to you.

Depends which stud it is, sometimes you can get a drill and an easy out in situ but if it is not accessible then you will have to pull the manifold off. If you want to have a go at removing the stud yourself, i can lend you the stuff to do it and give you advice.

I know who gets my vote for the biggest power in the non skyline bracket. And it is a true ACT built and tuned car and thats ESP with their WRX 515kw and BMW with a supra engine 530kw. Maybe you could have price brackets aswell as most people don't have an open cheque book for what it takes to pay someone to build them a 500kw plus car with all the goodies. Thanks for the pics of Paul and Staceys car Jayce. Still reckon you can't beat the twins for the street.

Had the same problem with mine. Checked the earth on both the ignitor and the coil packs and found both had loose connectors. Soldered the connector to the wires and misfire has gone. Also problem only occurred once i took the cam cover off.

You can get a liquid filled one from rare spares in phillip or autobarn at fyshwick for about $25