widebody32

That was me i just got it back on the road and am running it in so i can dyno it on the weekend hopefully. Saw your 32 and a maroon 33 gtst tonight on Monaro.

Have had quite a few people interested in seperate gauges. Am trying to sell all as one for now. If they don't sell i will think about seperating so leave your details and which gauges you are after and i will get back to you if they don't sell

Due to upgrading i am selling my Autometer 5" silver face memory recall tacho and 4 Greddy white face gauges. They come as a set and i am asking $450ono for all of them The greddy gauges consist of 60mm Oil Temperature 60mm Oil Pressure 60mm Water Temperature 80mm Boost gauge to 1.5 bar This is very cheap as the tacho itself cost me almost that when i bought it. All gauges come with their senders and wiring. Either pm me or call me on 0422214621

At the moment i am undertaking some more mods to get it ready for the nats(never ending) but once its back on the ground i will put some more pics up

There are two nipples on the ABS unit that you should bleed aswell and there is a special sequence. As bullet 32 said brakes are a safety item and are not something you should take lightly.Check out the note below before undertaking any work.You can start by sucking the old fluid out of the Master cylinder and clean it out with a lint free rag and retop with new fluid. As for bleeding the bleed nipple is located on the top of each calliper so that it can let air out at the highest point and as stated you start at the furthest calliper from the Master Cylinder(the thing you put fluid in) and work your way to the closest(being the last) When pumping the pedal do it slowly and you get the best results when you open the nipple while the person is holding their foot on the brake pedal and shut it off before they take theyre foot off. PUMP>UNDO>SHUT>PUMP.As for fluid Use the highest boiling point brake fluid you can get(roughly 620 deg celsius) as its only a little dearer and will withstand higher temps. As for the abs bleed leave this for someone who knows what theyre doing. BIG NOTE:Don't let the master cylinder run dry while bleeding. Dont spill the brake fluid on the paint as it will eat it and if you do wash it straight away with water. And dont leave the cap off while bleeding as brake fluid is Hygroscopic and as such draws moisture this is very bad for brakes as water starts to boil at 100 deg celsius. Any questions my numbers 0422214621. This is just a guide so if you are not mechanically minded leave it to someone who knows

Karmakaze yes will ship but have to get a price

Canberra. Injectors sold

Coil packs sold.

New parts added

Come on guys, we should be supporting local business, mechanics is not an exact science as there are a number of possibilities for any one problem it is just a matter of process of elimination. Every mechanic would have made a mistake in their time and anyone who says they haven't is bullsh**ting. Being qualified myself, working for an import yard,performance shop,Qantas as an Engineer and doing all my own work on these cars i speak from experience. These cars are up there with the best of them on technology and gadgets and anyone who has had to use the workshop manual and wiring diagram on one (Translated Japanese) will understand how hard it is to diagnose some of these problems. It is like anything if you have come accross a problem for the first time it takes ages to find but the second time round not a problem. Give these guys a go, if you have a problem with something they have done let em know and i'm sure they will sort it. It's the only way we learn.

Check that the alternator is charging and also put a booster pack on and see if it still does it as it could be a starter or ring gear problem. If it is a battery then all i can suggest is you buy the one that has the most CCA which is cold crank amps, as i looked into the oddysey batterys and i found that they had lees CCA than some of the others. AGM or dry cell are excellant but pricey.

Without looking at the car we can only speculate as there are a number of thing s it could be. If you are running aftermarket turbos with an untuned (to your particular car setup then this could be the problem)a trial one is only going to be fine if your engine and turbo setup are the same as what it was originally mapped for. I would be checking the basics first fuel press,boost press, ignition timing at the revs you are talking about also make sure he has connected the ecu earth points correctly, check all coil packs as you can have a slight missfire which will not necessarily give you a seat of the pants miss but can limit revs.Amaru is correct they do not have a boost cut only speed cut. If your computer isn't mapped to your setup then on boost the AFM will not be sending the correct voltage and can adjust timing and fuel corrections dramatically.Also check for simple things like blocked Cat or muffler. If you get stuck pm me and i will have a look at it for you

Can anyone help with pictures of their dry sump sump modifications. I am currently building a setup and have seen numerous setups but want to see an rb26 one that has been modified. I have read the previous posts on dry sumps but no pics were posted.

Being a mechanic i see this happen a lot. A lot of the time it is just coincidence as usually the customer is looking for noises or problems closer when they get the car back. Usually the reason they quote you on a new one is so as they can warrant their work and they have less chance of it coming back, but the good ones will give you both options and just let you know that if you do buy secondhand there is a good chance that it also could be faulty. A lot of the earlier nissans did have faults with dry solders on the dashes and this is more than likely what it will be. If the problem comes back then pull your instrument cluster out and have it checked. I can check and resolder if this is the case. Did they fix the original problem of draining the battery?

Due to upgrades i have some parts for sale as below. *720 cc Injectors in excellant condition and just cleaned. $600 SOLD *Brand new Blue anodised underdrive water pump pulley for sale $150 *Standard coil packs to suit GTR in excellant condition bought brand new 2yrs ago $200 SOLD *RB30 short motor ideal for twin cam conversion from sump to pistons just add your head was a good runner $200 Please pm for details or if your interested call me on 0422214621

Picture taken just after resprayed and was just sitting there for the photo. Thanks for noticing thirty two. It made 535.8 sinista but haven't leant on it yet.

Hi guys, here are some pics of my car and new setup 1989 R32 GTR Veilside Evo 3 kit in Bayside blue with different pearl and metallic Ganador electric mirrors 17x10 and 17x12.5 Panasport rims with 275 40 17 mickey thompson street drag and 315 30 17 advans POWER 727.5 RWHP on light tune with pump fuel, expect on more boost and proper tune to see 800 or so ENGINE and GEARBOX 2.7lt 88mm bore Line honed, torque plate bored, deburred, decked standard late model block Standard crank modified for dry sump setup (F**cked a good one) Jun rods Jun pistons ARP head and main studs ACL race bearings and Head gasket 280 deg cams Ferrea 1mm oversize valves Performance springs vave springs, retainers and collets Head porting by myself along with polished chamber. Tomei adj cam gears Ross Harmonic balancer Gates Timing belt ECU and ELECTRONICS Autronic SM4 computer Autronic R500 CDI Rice Racing Water injection kit with custom Tank controlled by Autronic Intercooler water spray controlled by Autronic Splitfire coils Relocated battery to boot Custom 140 amp alternator OILING SYSTEM Nismo catch can Trust oil cooler and remote oil filter 4 stage peterson dry sump oil pump with custom oil tank and Drive and low oil pressure shutoff Petrson Oil filter Castrol TSW Motorsport oil FUEL SYSTEM 1000cc injectors tomei fuel rail with twin feed HKS fuel reg twin motorsport fuel pumps and custom surge tank 100 octane shell v power fuel COOLING Davies craig electric water pump Davies craig twin 13" electric fans Koyo alloy Radiator Custom deflector plate Silicon Radiator Hoses EXHAUST custom F1 merge port exhaust man 62mm xtr racegate Custom Mr turbo turbo Specs witheld 4" dump pipe with HKS 3.5 system DRIVELINE Exedy triple plate carbon clutch Nismo slave cylinder Braided clutch line Upgraded standard box C's Short shifter Custom one piece tailshaft KAAZ two way rear diff Redline oils throughout INTAKE Twin drift filters and custom intake 5" intercooler with 4" inlet and outlet 4" intercooler piping All braided lines and silicon hose Polished standard manifold with modified inlet to 4" and number six runner enlarged INTERIOR Recaro front seats Nismo Race harness Veilside 340 km speedo Blitz boost controller Auto gauge oil press,volts oil temp and boost gauge Auto gauge 5" tacho with shift light and oil temp,water temp,boost,and fuel temp gauges Gizzmo shift light Razo gear knob Blaupunkt DVD player and speakers and amp with in dash screen SUSPENSION HKS drag coil overs all round Tanabe Adjustable castor rods Cusco camber arms Hicas lock bar with all lines and pump removed and modified single stage power steer pump Field torque split controll BRAKES Porsche brembo front calipers Alcon 324mm discs front R33 brembo rear callipers R33 rear brembo discs All braided lines Motul 600 brake fluid All Modifications were done by me including all braided lines and fabrication. Thanks Unigroup engineering and rice racing for tuning so far. If you require any work similar i do this work as my hobby and have started a business JAY'S RACE ENGINES. You can contact me on 0422214621 Julian

Price drop. Looking for standard sump

Pics up, Sorry it took so long but my computer crashed

I am looking for a RB26 engine block either standard or bored out no more than 87.5. If you can help then either PM or my phone number is 0422214621 Regards Julian

Will post pics tomorrow

Due to an upgrade to a dry sump setup i am selling my existing sump setup. This consists of the large capacity Sump which is similar to the metalcraft one and also houses an aircraft Magnetic plug(you can remove this in 2 seconds without draining the oil $500 on its own), a custom baffle plate with slosh gates and the oil pickup which has a tomei extension shroud on it. It is all in excellant condition and the sump comes with the diff. I am after swapping for a standard sump plus $400.00 ono. This sump has been used on a genuine 1000hp engine and the only reason i am swapping is i don,t want to modify this sump to make my dry sump as someone can use this one. SOLD

Yeah am very happy. Theres still a bit in it yet as at the moment i am maxed out on injectors and on my map sensors and i built it to sustain higher boost,so i'm pretty confident of about 800 at the tyres but 718 on its first few pulls is excellant,Will try to get a reading off a 4 wheel dyno as on the two wheel dyno its hard to get a good reading as wheel spin was evident due to the violence of the boost curve. How's your car going?Also what is the box at eds

Thanks for that

Hi everyone, Has anyone got a GTR gearbox they want to sell, either standard or modified as i have wounded mine on the dyno on the weekend. Regards Julian