our12

Hi Chris. Following with interest. Just one thing about rubber gloves- use suede lined you wont want to take them off-just thinking about them kindles something in me.

Hi. The bracket is the pedal box that the clutch pedal is attached to under the dashboard.They have a habit of breaking so the best method is to strengthen them by welding

Hi. Take it out and get it welded-probably stronger than aftermarket tin.

Hi. You would have to confirm what you think it is as its only noted as a v spec 2. The reason for the r rating is repair to r/h front guard- r/h door and looks like r/h skirt or maybe sill.The kms are not genuine. With this r rating you really need somebody you can trust to inspect and advise.

Hi. Sorry for getting off the subject. Did you fix the problem with the car going into 4 wd you enquired about sometime ago. If so what caused it?

Hi. Take it to your local brake and clutch workshop they will either replace seals or better still stainless steel it.

Hi. Looks good however your bore will only last about 6 months without air cleaners with the air quality over there.

Hi. Looking at the picture with LHS painted on it would indicate it has been changed before. Probably has been abused in the past and the inevitable happens. They are a consumable item after all.

Hi. If you are concerned get some stainless steel wire loosen of the tension on the bush wrap once around bush tie off and tighten up. The wire will hold the bush in its correct shape and being stainless will last.

Hi. This subject has been done to death in the past. Dont waste your money on these overpriced "fixes" , Go and buy a tin of" brasso "from the supermarket it will bring them up like new and you can spend the money you save on something else.

Hi. I will rephrase to hot water and no it wont hurt your paint.

Hi. Its probably only a time bomb.

Hi. Try boiling water with washing up detergent and use rubber gloves rub it on and hose off. Is also the way to get tree sap off effectively.

Hi. Check your harmonic balancer is not loose.

Hi. I wouldnt be to concerned with the tops of the pistons just put them back in with a new set of rings.That damage is miniscule from the photos. The bore doesnt appear from the photos to have any honing marks unlike the other bore shown. Also there is an area on the left hand side which looks like it wasnt honed correctly. No hone marks are usually an indication of either a tight piston /ring combination maybe gapped incorrectly compared with other bores which have honing. Another indication is the light scoring which may have already been present before your problems. I would remove the valves and check none are bent. Take the engine to your engine builder or machine shop and have them measure it up and report on it you may get away with a very light hone. The other thing to be checked is your bottom end which may need some attention depending how long it ran after the oil pump stopped pumping.

Hi. Its your car advertise it for what you think. Ignore the 2 people who have only joined the forum in the last 2 months and are both a mine of misinformation. Drop off children and let the guy sell his car.

Hi. I think i may know trhe owner of this car. Seeing that you have met him you may know his full name. If you have and know this the first letters on the number plate will confirm it is who i am sure it is. The car i have some familiarity with is dark blue. Dont be concered he has some toys and i assume you inspected it at an industrial complex. If this is the case you would be buying a very good car. My car has never been accident damaged and has the same seam sealer. If you are interested and see him again tell him " Terry the Lotus Cortina man passes on his regards"

Hi. Hope you have success resolving your problem. Just one point- the only thing that causes clicking is wear in the cage- balls bearings are much harder than the cage material and are immersed in grease so wear in these is miniscule.I have seen oversize ballbearings used to take up cage wear. Not a very satisfactory solution as the larger ball has to fit into the machining in the joint which also sees hardly any wear. Many years ago when we used to be involved with racing minis cvs were swapped annually side to side to get 2 years use instead of 1 year then usually went into one of our road cars if needed. If you get stuck reverse them.

Hi. If you get stuck and want to save money swap them over left to right and right to left. As the cv ball cage only wears on the thrust side ie forwards. By doing this you will usually get a more than satisfactory result.

Hi. Just something to add. If you take your slave cylinder out to repair or simply look at when you refit it the bleeder must always be at the highest point as air always goes to the highest point.If its at the lowest point you will never bleed it succesfully. Had a mates brother who used 2 litres of brake fluid trying to bleed a slave cylinder- you gueesed it he had the bleeder at the lowest point and could not understand it was wrong as it was more convenient to get his bleeder tube onto the nipple when at the bottom.

You could try lightly tapping the key in while turning.

This is an interesting topic and got me thinking about the way my father some 40 years ago went about lifting engines from cars. When he built his workshop/garage he put a large wooden beam across the building which has a wood frame. He had 2 4 x2 Cut to fit floor to beam and cut so that half the end fitted under the beam and half went up the side of the beam ( the technique is some woodworking term which escapes me). These 2 supports are kept when not in use against the original garage frame held in by a g clamp. When you want to use the set up its simple- get the supports position them under the beam on either side of the car use a g clamp on each support to hold it in place on the main beam and the action is underway. The main beam has a permanent chain around it to attach the block and tackle. A system the same could be fabricated out of steel the only bit of engineering would be the supports for the main beam or rsj . A lot of engines were removed with no problems. Another point in garages with limited space are work benches we have always used the same dimensions 1200 long 600 wide and 910 height. May seem small but used as a working bench not a storage space is more than adequate. I have seen in pitched roof steel sheds a system of fixing mild steel hangers from the main support beam and a steel frame with supports across it and covered with tongue and grooved floor boards and supported at the wall end on the metal frame running across the shed. They were made as 2 units to a width with space between them leaving the centre of the shed clear. Ideal for items not to heavy. To access use a step ladder. Hope i have given you some food for thought.

Interesting reading these postings. Most people with brake noise seem to have done the right thing and machined discs and fitted their new pads with the factory anti squeal plates but the brakes still give them problems. The problem has to be pads that are not appropriate for the use of the car . Using pads over 400c on the street is wasting you money and wearing out your discs. Using pads with high temps in normal driving conditions which the majority of people do actually makes the brakes perform less efficiently than a standard pad and yes you get noise. High temp pads should only be used in circuit conditions. The only exception to this is hillclimbing where you use the softest pad available. Maybe you have misaligned caliper pistons something caused by the wrong technique when resetting.

Hi. Put the old plugs back in and take for a drive. If no problems its the new plugs being to cold. I would use 7 for normal driving.

Hi. Maybe your original tune is not right. Perhaps your ignition map is not correct. I have seen 252awhp with a dyno sheet showing afrs as they should be but the car was capable of more. Taken 2 days later to another tuner here in brisbane- 10 minutes correcting ignition map only and 308awhp as it should have been.