Blue Dynamite

I got someone interested in the whole package so I'm going to see how that goes. Ill keep you posted, at the very least you should be able to get a spare twin tailshaft etc.. Rick.

Sedan, but the paint is pretty gone. The insides arent that great either but the rust it does have is meager surface and there's not much of it. edit- ill try and get some pictures of the whole package in thorough detail asap. Cheers, Rick.

both G/B's are manual, As far as synchros go one is deemed to be better than the other, although I haven't tested it I was told by the person I got it from that he thought it was really good. But if there's any way to check it out without completely dismantling it only to have to re-construct it then I'm good for that (I was going to use it in my project). Anyway that one is $50, the other one thats synchros to 2nd and 3rd arent so good occasionally is $30 I have 3 spare MR30 manual tailshafts, lets say $15 each(goes for g/b mini crossmember + other sectioned tailshaft). probably got everything for an mr30 manual conversion or two minus decent clutches. Also got spare electric doors in super good nick if anyone wants them for $10 'all'(that's about scrap value isnt it?). They are purplish silver, (light metallic blueish). Good paint ftr. You are in Adelaide right?

Just clarifying, everything here is 'pickup only'.

Hello everyone I no longer have time for cars anymore. SELLING: DR30 FRONT STRUTS x2, brakes, King Springs, Noltech bushed control arms, also have original DR30 springs and electric spring heighten'er thingos, strong shocks, frontal Whiteline swaybar incl. REAR STRUTS x2, whole crossmember, assembled with R30 rear swaybar, DR30 Brakes, noltech swaybar bushing, King Springs, ok shocks. $550 for everything above. ono All of the re bushing done has cost me an odd $230 alone and was done with Noltech bushes (Have receipts) I know I'm not getting that back but realise it's mention might be respected in the buy. General R30 gear that is half mentioned/not mentioned: Front and rear Whiteline Swaybars, never been used! ~(both come with front and rear strut packages)~ Solid MR30 gearbox $50 MR30 brake booster/master cyl 3/4" clean and good condition $ 10 MR30 TI ALLOYS, 7, 2 with good matching tires, 16 wheelnuts, $200 ono. Good clean MR30 Radiator $20 L28 block, flat top pistons $100. $750 for everything on/in a rolling shell ono. All of this will fit into an R30 skyline. I also have MUCH more stuff and am pretty easy about parting with it. I have already taken some pictures and plan to get them up when I can get the cable to do so. Post back if you're interested with inquiries.

I'm in Adelaide and regarding MR and DR 30 parts I have some nice and difficult bits to get that I am now willing to sell. DR30 front struts x2, king springs, with working stiff shocks and clean good conditioned discs and calipers. Also with Noltech bushing through the control arms, noltech redius rod bushes, and noltech swaybar link bushes (Unused) Frontal and Rear Whiteline Swaybars + link bushes Rear DR30 crossmember including rear KYB struts and kingsprings and DR30 calipers and discs. Also rear MR30 crossmember including drums, wishbones and cables. Redtop RB20 turbo, running, includes one R32 engine mount (a second mount is required for r30 conversion), EFI connections in full including computer, 2 good condition MR30 gearboxes, at least 1 good condition MR30 diff, (analyse whatever if you want) 2 MR30 shells containing various spares including tachometers and interiors (shells have bad paint). Spare R30 purplish silver paint and primer, lol 7 mr30 TI rims some with good tires. (15inch, good offset for R30's) 4 14inch alloys, protrusive offset, good tires! spare good condition TI quater panels, doors, tail lights, headlights, everything. reasonable with prices but if the offers i am getting arent sufficient then i will sell the bulk of everything for a singular price instead. I will not post. Send me a PM if you're interested in anything from here.

Just got back from a camping trip up at Browns beach, caught a whole heap of inedible rock cod at Dolphin bay. Well, we tried to eat it... So... Camping Fishing Anime Judo Writing Computer Drawing Jogging/Bike riding RPG'ing (sometimes - realtime and SNES gaming) World movies (SBS sorta thing) And that's about it.

I am putting a redtop NICS engine into an MR30 skyline. Since this RB20det NICS engine was from a 240z it had to have a 200ZR sump pan to fit with the crossmember. I have an R32 sump but no oil pickup for it. I have the oil pickup for the 200ZR sump. I am wondering whether the oil pickup is different between 200ZR RB20det sumps and the regular ones, can they be turned around or do I need to look for one, or can an RB30 one be used? Cheers, Rick.

I've had my car broken into twice now and I've grown a very strong hatred for such scum. In saying that they could've been going over to have a look at your car. One of my friends accidentally set off someones car alarm just because he was so absorbed with examining the car, ~awkward~... The anguish, not knowing what happened exactly or who did it has brought me to the point where I'm even tempted so far as to hunt these sort of bastards just for fun by setting them up just so I can f**k them up.

Got any of these items in SA, then I'm interested! Need em by the end of the week though. The general price for a bellhousing through an imports dealy is like $100 should be able to get em down to $80 at least though, was hoping to get one a fraction cheaper by not going through retail cause my project is very minor on the budget side of things. I got quoted $40 for an rb20 sump from Z-imports. I have no problem with that price but if I can get it off the same dude I'm getting other stuff from then I'll pay that too. Otherwise I'll just get one from Z-imports. As far as the clutch goes, I need something that can withstand the puny wrath of a redtop nics rb20det, lol. Preferably something that someone else doesnt need and on the cheap that's still alright. Cheers, Rick.

Stunningly beautiful! I really really want one!

You're kidding me!?!? My mate and I scrapped a z31 rear end bout 6 months ago!!!!?! I knew that was a bad move. His gear but I really should've bought it off him. So I basically have to look around for prices on Z31 rear discs right? I might have to drive it how it is for a while, can you see that being a bad move if I kept it up for 6months or so? (hard braking) That can't wreck my caliper or anything else thats important can it?

I bought some DR30 gear sorta recently but I've discovered a problem with one of the rear discs now. So now I'm looking at one of the rear discs and it appears that it has been dragged on one spot or something because it's a bit flat-spotted on one part of the edges. Will this matter much? I really can't have my brakes f**king up on me. The edge of the disc at this spot isn't flared out or anything by the way. I'm pretty fuelled on resolving this issue asap. How hard are DR30 rear-discs to attain anyway? Don't tell me I have to go directly through Nissan to get them? Main good thing about these rear discs even though theres this issue is that I should be able to get my car complied/through regency allot easier with these brakes and a redtop-rb20. But what about the actual condition of the disc? What do I need to take into account/look for? I'll try and get some pics asap.

A) because I'm getting it for $500 with help in instalation B) because the engine is being taken out of a 240z and all if any adaption process's should already be done (I'm told the only real adaption is with the gearbox). As for gearbox mounts I'm using a standard MR30 gearbox, however it's in good condition and Bazz from Datsport said it wont have a problem so long as I use decent gearoil in it. C) I only really need it to last me a year anyway. D) The body of my project car is delapidated and thus putting a $2000 engine/gearbox into it wouldn't make much sense to me. D2) Maybe when I get it complied with the weak NICS engine, I give it a decent paint job (going with a can fixup for now), have learned how to drive with a dodgey turbo engine; then upgrading to a silvertop would be a better idea. Call me ignorant and arrogant and I guess I am taking a chance on this engine holding up for a year, but I think I blew my dailys engine the other day and god knows I couldn't be bothered rebuilding another one for its tainted wishbones, dead front shocks, dead clutch and broken windows at 300-500+ effort for the power of an L24.

Good point, but at least for the time being, this is all I can afford. I've seen it running and everything 'appears' to be in well running order, so hopefully I am lucky.Cheers. Rick.