Jump to content
SAU Community

75coupe

Members
  • Posts

    3,035
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by 75coupe

  1. put a vinyl graphic on your boot, or better still cover the boot in black or carbon look alike vinyl... gloss vinyl will look just like it is paintedm you won't be able to tell...
  2. Well I just made myself a new gear shift boot... I quizzed the old woman on how to sew, and what I would need... and it worked out very well... sorry no pics as yet, I only have a crappy phone camera. I used similar vinyl except ever so slightly thicker, some nice strong thread and some time... It is basically a replica of the original, I took it apart and just did the same thing in reverse with new parts, my favourite trick... I have heaps of material left over, enough for at least 10... What do you reckon sau'ers might pay for a home job, considering your looking at least $45 else where... I reckon what $13 plus postage...? does that sounds reasonable....? I'll get some pics up but it just look like the stock one but new... I'm quite amazed it turned out so well..
  3. Here's some ideas for you... And I'm always willing to do more...
  4. the reflector is still there... its just not red...
  5. Yeah I guess so, but playing sealant sucks ass... i lost my fingerprints from getting the assembly apart... suck ass I wouldn't want to do it twice... well four times... cause I still gotta do the other side... I also had to do the bake in an oven trick, worked well...
  6. just to the left of steering column it'll cover your fuel gauge slightly but you don't want to be reminded how much fuel you just used so its better to hide it alittle... make sure you clean down the surface with metho to get any shite on their velcro tape is what I used, you just want to make sure you get the best adhesion possible....
  7. Yep the screendoor and fly screen places have the best selelctrion, and its really solid... really hard to bend the stainless steel stuff but great finish... I found the normal auto acces. places had only the tacky lookin large holed stuff bugs and stones could go straight thru it...
  8. Dosen't look too bad. I filled the gar with some rubber weather strip I sourced from clak rubber $13 (I love that shop, I used it a few times now, love going there) and sealed it with windscreen sealant $11. Got some red coloured brake light globes from my favorite Bulleseye store $10. I reckon thats the cheapest mod that has some much visual impact I have ever done... can't wait to see it at night
  9. I think RDA are great myself I have no complaint with the rotors at all in fact I just ordered new front and rear slotteds. I have had DBAs in the past and the RDA seem just the same except heaps cheaper they seem to last the same. My complaint is with the pads. When I say soft cheap pads, I'm thinking from past experience the pads wore out without taking alot of rotor meat with em and they were cheaper, and yes a sacrifice in the feel and efficiency and so on, but I guess I would rather pay less for the pads keep longevity in the discs and sacrifice braking performance, yeah ultimates stop good, but I don't see that huge a difference from lower grade pads that don't chew rotors to justify the wear and price.
  10. So it could be said when using RDA rotors or if you want your expensive rotors to last more than one set of pads then use cheap ass soft pads. then have another set of decent rotors and pads just for the track days... but of course not bendix cause they just don't seem decent... dusty as, and the guy at autobarn reckons they are a dustless pad... hahaha he said he had seen my front wheels a couple of times and just can't explain why my front rims are always dusty, he said I must be doing something wrong... well I just found pads for my 33 for $90 all round, I'm gonna try them they can't be any worse than bendix...
  11. Yep I bedded them in as per instructions... I made sure as I didn't want to waste the money spent... Maybe I'm simply expecting too much from brakes, I must admit I do drive rather hard and do use my brakes I would say too their limit... and experience no fade or fluid probs. I wish I could get that sort of mileage from my brakes..... I'm putting some rear slotteds on this weekend with fresh pads all round different brand this time. see how it goes, but now I will probably need to replace my front rotors again in less than 20000 Ks.
  12. Bloody Bendix sucks, I changed my front rotors and pads at the same time with Bendix Ultimates and RDA slotted rotors, now after only 17000 Ks went to replace the pads (note that I am not impressed with Bendix pads at all) only to find that my slotted rotors have practically no slots left the pads have chewed away almost 3mm of metal from the rotor... Now I have heard that Bendix chew rotors, but was very surprise to have a technician from Bendix tell me that I shouldn't be using slotted or cross-drilled rotors as they do nothing for braking they are just for show (I thought it was for water dispersion and airflow to keep the rotor cooler), and that on european vehicles when changing pads it is usual to change the rotors and pads at the same time everytime cause the pads are a similar compound to ultimates and yes they chew pads, I thought it was brakes dust on my rims from the bendix pads but hey it could of actually been rotor dust, hence when you see euro cars with a very dusty front rim. Does this Bendix 'technician' know what he is talking about or is it just bull..? I asked him to give what he had said to me in writing which of course he refused.... He also said I was driving way too hard for the pads as they are not up to hard driving apparantly, maybe this is why bendix has a new pad range out, called their performance range, not that I will be trying them at all......
  13. The Plastics Centre Pty Ltd, Arncliffe NSW - also registered as The Plastix Centre. Plastic Fabrication. 192 Princes Hwy, Ph 02 9599 2499. found this in a headlight cleaning thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20&start=20 It doesn't sound like a 'affordable' option, but it may be worth enquiring... I sound enthusiastic but type can be deceiving, anyone want to be less lazy than me and give em a call.....
  14. Anyone thought about asking a plastic fabricator for a price on reproducing in clear? I did see threads about cleaning headlights where someone mentioned having the lense reproduced in Sydney by a plastic fabricator. Think they may of even mentioned a price of $150 for a lense... I'm gonna go search for it....
  15. no one mentioned decals... I've seen his car in the flesh its great...
  16. cool.. I'll search the galleries when I get time, one to add to the collection, I wonder if I can leech all the galleries?
  17. I wouldn't think so, but have you actually seen the harness bars for sale in Aust? I need one... I also don't want to go to the parcel shelf... and don't want a roll cage.... yet
  18. of wild graphics on a R32 GTR? hmmm... I'll don't have any in my collection so far.. (still searching) maybe its because most gtrs with big money spent on them are orientated towards "sports car" not show car with loud in your face looks more logos and speed lines rather than flames or swishes or some kind of amazing graphic you may find on a non "sports car" eg. rx3, torana, hotrods, muscle cars are a average car not targeted or build to be "sports" orientated and are more for comfort or raw power. The sports car on the other hand eg. MG, porsche, bmw or even a skyline, when you start to improve the car it becomes very clear that the core of the cars build had a "sports car" in mind. thus the sporting nature of the people who appreciate them tend to go the sporty look to mimic the strong points shown on the race track. race cars don't generall have what I would call wild graphics more like easy to see when moving fast... haha maybe thats its that the gtr moves to fast to see the wild graphics so it requires a more basic graphic, done. analysed.... even though I love wild graphics on any car....
  19. Do it yourself, go get a cheap metal polishing kit, grab a drill and remove your parts and polish away. It's easy, very satisfying and it will save you cash for other mods. I have recently finished polishing my cam covers, intake plenum, heat shields and cross over as well as the FMIC piping... now they have a mirror finish... well a bit more on the plenum and it will too... Yeah it was messy, took a fair while and I didn't have a car for a week, but very very satisfying to know you did it yourself and didn't give money away... have a go...
  20. Sorry if this is a silly question but is this is for RB25DET?
  21. Yeah, like he said is it plastic? If its $90 delivered how much if I come pick it up?
  22. What widths do you have? Which model of Sparco racing rim are they? hopefully NTs as I am after one or two. What are the offsets? Any photos?
  23. When doing car graphics vinyls are the best, airbrushing might be the ultimate but when you want to be able to change the graphics and see what it looks like with spending up big time, you can't beat vinyl.... Why don't you see if I can come up with a custom vinyl design that you would like. And I can alway incorporate a tuner logo into a design.
  24. I can create any graphic you need... either send me a image of what you need or I can design something for ya... I have a range of different brand logos...
  25. yep post some photos.. I'm keen to do this too.. just need some inspiration....
×
×
  • Create New...