75coupe

Excuse my ignorance but what is the benefit of having a quick release, im in the habit of alway sliding my my full bucket all the way back when i get in and out...

No, just the metal caps that hold the injectors in and get bolted down to the fuel rail.

Feeling the love

Ive got rb26 cam and timing belt covers, i cut a hole in the timing belt cover to allow the vct intake cam end to poke thru, since ive be dressing up the engine bay ive pajnted case and now the intake cam end, which is the vct actuator (not sure what to call that), so i painted the part that pikes thru the 26 timing belt cover for cosmetics, but it seems in doing that it may of created this prob. Ive only noticed it as i painted it around the dame period as painting the caps on the injectors, it doesnt get driven much.. So when ive loosen and retighten the four bolts on the the end of the intake came, vct end part it has made a difference to the rough idle.. Hence why i thinking painting it has interfered with its operation, are the four bolts on the the end of the intake cam (vct) needing to be to torqued to a specific number or are you not supposed to loosen and retighten them at all... This is something ive not done previously so im shooting in the dark here... Your help is much appreciated...

Cant wait to see the results.

Ok ive confirmed its not the injectors, swapped a couple around and still same issue. Checked plugs, one was sooty the other was wet, changed plugs, still same issue, Thought perhaps painting the vct end of the cam has done something, loosened four small bolts on front of vct and had a look tightened them back up car is running much better but still a bit rough. So, what do people think has happened, painting the vct has caused it to not work correctly. I did notice the exhaust sounded weird when running rough and atmo bov noise sounded different now that i loosened the bolts on vct and tightened them again sound is back to normal beside it still running rough..

Ofcourse thats an easy test, why didnt i think of that, doh

Is there any evidence of the compressor fins hitting the sides? What boost are you running?

Hmmm ok they are all good suggestions except for the second one, ill see how it goes with some more testing. Thx

Car was running fine, then decided to finally coat the caps on top of the injectors, put them all back, new stainless bolts and now black caps and its running rough. ive narrowed it down to no6, as when removing injector plugs one by one its only one that does not kill or affect the rough idle, it has 11.72v to the plug. How do i check the injector is firing? Why would it now not be working after a simple take cap off paint replace bolts and reassemble? I did at the same time take off cas and timing belt cover to paint exposed vct end as it now shows through the rb26 timing cover, but this idle is way rougher than just the cas being a smidge out and changing the cas position makes little to no dif, i had marked the cas up before removing its always been marked as it gets removed occasionally for various things... Any help appreciated

Have you tried a fluid flush? How does the pedal feel? How so the brakes perform cold and hot? Do they stop squealin if you really brake hard? I got to the point where my calipers where spotless all the time due to changing cleaning changing setups... The squeal is annoying as hell

So think about it a sec if a brake squeal is high frequency vibration where could that he coming from. It sounds like youve tried alot of things, this is all the same stuff i did when i had a brake squeal issue, and i had been using the same brand/type of pads and rotors, thats when i found the project mu shims.

Weather clear yet? Im wanting to see what the resolution was

Keep seeing your npc clutch plate for sale, wondering if ill save much getting the plate from you and the rest jew from npc, as ive been wanting to get the npc carbotic 10" clutch to replace my slipping one...

Give the housing to hi octane coatings and get it ceramic coated, they polish and coat and it looks hot... Polished chrome like colours or any colour you want, they do alot of the high profile cars...

Id go bilstein over bc anyday... Bilstein have been making suspension for a long time and supply alot of manufacturers bc have only heen around a short time and done supply car manufacturers... And my pet hate... All skylines have coilovers, they come std with them, adjustable or aftermarket suspension is the same setup as std which is a coilover setup...

There are quite alot of complex shapes there to flip im not sure it would be of benefit using a flip method... Id say just get a better one, there is a heap there to recreate especially if you havnt done it before

Nah you cant flip it to get a mould for the other side, dont work that way... I threw that lip away the other week, it was a little damaged, but better condition than that one

I run the same pads and have punished them at track, just had the fluid get too hot replace fluid, bled and punished them again, never a hard pedal... I dont thinks its pads either

I only noticed the coolant temp sensor was an issue when it became hard to start once hot and was running rich

Id go the bilsteins for sure

I was able to diagnose my faulty coolant temp sensor by using the hand controller, not sure if its open circuit or what tbh

Oh crap, i hope they solve your problem

Oh crap, i hope they solve your problem

Dosent the pfc have a sensor check for it?