75coupe

And just cause i was being helpful i looked up the maxima i got mine from and it was a 95-99 model, was exactl same fittings as an r33 but longer For future peoples that search for this...

And a slap for yourself for making two threads for the one question

Id still continue the slapping for a few days though just to be sure

I used a nissan maxima throttle cable

After you trawl the forced induction section move onto the suspension threads sounds like youll need it

So it has a tuneable ecu?? If not save the $80 power run

Just get dba slotted, remeber to completely flush the fluid and use something decent, motul rbf as a suggestion. Ditch the pod, no cover needed then

Whats with the white line on the tyres? Its like almost a sex spec tyre

Change oil for sure, try an additive, nulon in a tube cant remember the name of it

Where are you??

Yep it will be powder coated, ill see what a workshop quotes, if its only $20 then ill get them to do it otherwise ill give the alloy rods a go... Thx for the replies much appreciated

Internally gated, no 'Cheapy' throttle body and forward facing plenum, no You could not of search that hard, heaps of info and it sounds like you have read none

Whats all this std look thing? Sure im in nsw but ive never had an issue and never looked std in any aspect body or engine bay... Is std look really a benefit if it has never been an issue?

I picked up a rb26 timing belt cover to use on my rb25, it came with backing plate and i already have the cam covers, ive cut a hole for the vct, but it has a small chip on the lip on the top edge (why i picked it up heaps cheap), its only small, like 15mm long 5mm into the cover. I have a mig but im not setup for alloy. Im thinking of trying the hts2000 rods to repair it but thats $50 to get them here but will have leftovers for future repairs so kinda handy, would it be cheaper to get a welding shop to do the work or is there any other methods to repair it that could work out more economical?

You can usually tell if an engine is overheating when driving, it just dont feel right... If you could see smoke off the starter you would of been able to feel and hear the heat in the engine bay surely, what a waste!

So you continued to drive even after seeing smoke, it was hot so you started it again and drove... At what point did you not see the temp gauge and thought hmm its really hot and there is smoke maybe i shouldn't continue to drive it considering it stop whilst driving as well...? Are you trying to invoke engine dramas?

Ok that sounds good, i was a bit skeptical of the jaycar sensor, last thing i would want is the sensor burning up in the turbo

You feel the jaycar temp sensor would be no good, because it wont stand up to the heat? They say its for up to 1200 degrees?

I would of thought that the manifold wouldnt get as hot if it were ported and flowed as edges that exist and catch the hot gas get hot, so if these edges were not there the hot gas would not affect the manifold metal as much, albeit fairly minimal

I do have what may be a sensor port on the hks exhaust housing, would this be for a temp sensor? And will a jaycay temp sensor hold up to the temperatures or will it just cause problems? Will the sensor there give a good indication of the benefits of hpc coating and port flowing?

We will probably go further and coat intercooler core and piping, it will all be done in stages to show changes for each part mod.

Im going to get my front facing inlet manifold and exhaust manifold ceramic coated and the exhaust manifold port matched and cleaned up. Where would be the best places to mount temp probes on both manifolds to measure before and after temp changes, dont really want to run temp probes on each runner. I have a mate that is doing the coatings and port work and wants to show the benefits of the work done. Real world results of both gas temp and engine bay temp of the coatings and port matching. Plus of ofcourse the cosmetic improvement.

If there are 'shonky' jobs done on a car, then you always be finding more. Hope its not your daily

Clean and dry coil packs are good too

Copper plugs for sure iridiums just last longer. When you wash the engine bay stay away from the spark plug valley, and leave the engine running, keeps the heat going so it drys faster and if the motor revs change you know not to continue doing that... And don't blast it everywhere be sensitive to where you spray copious amounts of water. This all goes for any motor